Starting Marantz 2325 rebuild

Discussion in 'Marantz Audio' started by Steven Tate, Oct 6, 2016.

  1. Steven Tate

    Steven Tate AK Subscriber Subscriber

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    Finally got the parts and the will power to attack the 2325 that I just purchased. It plays great, but everything is original and I want to set it up to play another 30 years. I started with the P800 power supply board and made the capacitor replacements recommended by Leestereo in his excellent rebuild thread here:
    http://audiokarma.org/forums/index....oration-and-upgrade-of-a-marantz-2325.689386/.
    I replaced R801 with a recommended 150 ohm resistor increasing the rating from 5W to 7W and mounting off of the board for cooling. I replaced all of the electrolytic caps, upping the capacitance and voltage ratings where he suggested. I used his suggested Nichicon PW series caps that are low ESR and 105 degree celsius rated. Also replaced the DS-131B Dual diodes at H808 and H809 with NXP BYQ28E-200,127 replacements. The protection relay was replaced with a drop-in LY2-0-DC24. In addition, I went with Catrafters recommendation in that thread and replaced the two TO-220 case 2SD331 transistors at H801 and H802 with MJE15030 as replacements. To read my glue removal saga, check out this thread:
    http://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/glue-removal-from-pc-board.736711/#post-9976675

    After testing with the DBT, the voltage easily adjusted to 35VDC with R809. And to make it even better....everything works! Here are a few pics of the work on the board:
    Before
    [​IMG]

    Major components removed leaving lots of glue
    [​IMG]

    After clean up. Some black plastic from the old cap bottoms would not come off.
    [​IMG]

    New components on board
    [​IMG]
     
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  2. runningdog

    runningdog AK Subscriber Subscriber

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    Looking good...
     
  3. Dearslayer

    Dearslayer AK Subscriber Subscriber

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    Nice work. I know that glue is a real pain. Looks somewhat like the PS on the 2010 that I'm working on ( pict below ) Why did they use so much glue mostly on the PS boards of these receivers and not the rest of the boards I wonder. Heck why the glue at all???
     

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  4. Dearslayer

    Dearslayer AK Subscriber Subscriber

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    Any chance you will be posting a parts list after your done. I had my 2330 recapped before I started into this hobby but to be honest I think only the minimum was done. I would hazard a guess that the components won't be that much different between the 2325 and the 2330 so I may open it up to see what exactly was done. It's currently in service as my main unit.
     
  5. Steven Tate

    Steven Tate AK Subscriber Subscriber

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    I'll probably put something together in the way of a parts list. I'm mostly following Leestereo's thread with the addition of a few other recommendations along the way. But I think it can be helpful to others to have a list of the parts all in one place. As for the glue....I'm not sure why they used so much, but it is quite the PITA for those of us working on them forty years later.
     
  6. rBuckner

    rBuckner Luv 2 Restore Subscriber

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    I believe it was to hold the large/tall parts onto the board to wave solder them. Part of the evidence is the total covering of the back of the board with flux. The process pulls the board over hot flux first, then over a molten solder wave.

    The rebuild is lookin' good so far, let's hope there's no GM parts to be sourced!
     

     

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  7. Steven Tate

    Steven Tate AK Subscriber Subscriber

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    This makes perfect sense.
    :rockon:
     
    Last edited: Oct 6, 2016
  8. Steven Tate

    Steven Tate AK Subscriber Subscriber

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    For those who might be interested, here is the parts list with Mouser part numbers so far. At the end, I'll post a complete parts list. If you see any errors or have preferred alternates, please let me know.
    Steve

    C008/009 – Main Filter Capacitors

    15000µF/70V Replaced with United Chemicon 18000µF/75V Mouser 661-E36D750N183TC79M


    P800 Power Supply


    R801 150Ώ/5W - TT Electronics 150Ώ/7W Mouser 756-W22-150RJI

    C803 470µF/63V - Nichicon PW 1200µF/63V Mouser 647-UPW1J122MHD
    C804 220µF/63V - Nichicon PW 680µF/63V Mouser 647-UPW1J681MHD
    C805 470µF/16V - Nichicon PW 470µF/35V Mouser 647-UPW1V471MPD
    C806 220µF/63V - Nichicon PW 680µF/63V Mouser 647-UPW1J681MHD
    C807 330µF/50V - Nichicon PW 330µF/50V Mouser 647-UPW1H331MPD
    C809 10µF/50V - Nichicon PW 22µF/50V Mouser 647-UPW1H220MDD
    C811 10µF/16V - Nichicon PW 22µF/63V Mouser 647-1J220MED1TD
    C812 47µF/16V - Nichicon PW 47µF/25V Mouser 647-UPW1E470MDD
    C813 220µF/10V - Nichicon PW 220µF/35V Mouser 647-UPW1V221MPD6

    H801/802 2SD331 - ON Semi MJE15030G Mouser 863-MJE15030G
    H808/809 DS-131B - NXP BYQ28E-200,127 Mouser 771-BYQ28E-200127

    L801 24V/10A Relay - Omron LY2-0-DC24 Mouser 653-LY2-0-DC24
     
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  9. Steven Tate

    Steven Tate AK Subscriber Subscriber

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    Wife had some surgery yesterday, so sitting with her and had time to attack the PE01 Tone/Preamp board. Again, followed Leestereo's recommendations. Had a couple of incidents. First, I removed all of the caps and when I got to the CE37 and 38, I found that I did not have the WIMA 4.7uF caps I thought I had. So after replacing everything else, I had to put those two originals back on the board to test it. Well....when I tested it, the left channel sounded like a tin can. Right was great. I had thoroughly (I thought) Deoxited all of the switches and pots twice, so didn't think it was those, although I tried working all of them (I thought). Took the board back out and spent 30 minutes with magnification looking at every cap, orientation, value, pad, solder, etc. Could not find anything amiss except one really brown looking pin on the large connector on the board that connects to the wiring harness. I Deoxited that, put it back in and fired it up again. Same darn thing. So I went back through more methodically and worked every switch and pot and lo and behold when I switched the Dolby knob, the left channel lit up. From that point on, there was nothing I could do to get the bad sound again out of the left channel. So I Deoxited the Dolby switch again and am hoping for the best. As soon as I get those WIMA 4.7's, I will be taking the board back out to replace CE37 and 38. Thankfully it's very easy to remove that board. Filter caps will be next, here are a couple of pics of PE01 and a parts list.
    Steve

    Before
    [​IMG]

    After -- Completed except CE37/38
    [​IMG]

    PE01 Tone and Preamp Assembly

    CE01/02 680pF - TDK 680pF/250V C0G Mouser 810-FG28C0G2E681JNT6
    CE05/06 1µF/250V - Panasonic 1µF/250VDC Mouser 667-ECW-F2105JA
    CE09/10 100µF/10V - Nichicon PW 100µF/10V Mouser 647-UPW1A101MDD
    CE11/12 10µF/35V - Nichicon ES bipolar 10µF/35V Mouser 647-UES1V100MEM
    CE13/14 3.3µF/35V - WIMA film 3.3µF/50V Mouser 505-MKS23.3/50/10
    CE33/34 1µF/25V - WIMA film 1µF/50V Mouser 505-MKS2B041001C00KS
    CE35/36 3.3µF/25V - WIMA film 3.3µF/50V Mouser 505-MKS23.3/50/10
    CE37/38 4.7µF/16V - WIMA film 4.7µF/50V Mouser 505-MKS2-4.7/50/10
    CE39 220µF/35V - Nichicon PW 470µF/35V Mouser 647-UPW1V471MPD
     
  10. Leestereo

    Leestereo Super Member

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    Looks like your 2325 restoration/upgrade is coming along nicely.
     
  11. Steven Tate

    Steven Tate AK Subscriber Subscriber

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    Thanks to you! It's really nice to have trusted mentors to pave the way for learning. Right now, I''m learning the "how". Along the way I hope to learn more of the "why". I still hold my breath every time I power up. So far so good. But I know I will have mishaps and problems at some point. Glad I have a lot of willing help when that time comes. If I get off course, steer me in the right direction. Thanks again!
    Steve
     

     

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  12. thxdave

    thxdave Lava Lamp repairman Subscriber

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    I'm right there with you, Steve. If it wasn't for Leestereo, I wouldn't have tackled my 2275 with nearly the thoroughness that he has encouraged me to do. Many thanks Ben.
     
  13. Steven Tate

    Steven Tate AK Subscriber Subscriber

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    I agree. Hey, I got to use the fiberglass braid you sent me on the leads of that hot resistor in the PS board. It looks great -- didn't brown at all when I soldered the resistor. Thanks for sending that!
    Steve
     
  14. rBuckner

    rBuckner Luv 2 Restore Subscriber

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    Hoping here that Mr. Dave is OK in Florida and that Mrs.T is recovering well!!
     
  15. Steven Tate

    Steven Tate AK Subscriber Subscriber

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    Thank you! This is her final reconstruction surgery after 6 months or more of surgery and chemo for breast cancer. She was a stage I with no lymph node involvement, so the prognosis is very good. :thumbsup:
     
  16. Autobahn

    Autobahn AK Subscriber Subscriber

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    The Dolby switch gave me some odd faults also during my recapping. I deoxed it around 5 sessions of switch cleaning. It works perfectly now.

    Mike
     

     

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  17. Steven Tate

    Steven Tate AK Subscriber Subscriber

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    Good to know. I gave it a really good bath last night - the third one - so hopefully it won't give more trouble. I did have another small mishap. I replaced the big caps last night and when I powered it up, everything sounds great, but I lost my Stereo light. Not sure what's going on there. It's definitely playing in stereo. The tone control selector is in stereo mode and also the light doesn't work with the other inputs where it is normally on all the time. I have fingers crossed that it is just the lamp. That will be my next chore - to dig down into the lamps, change that one and hope it comes back on. Otherwise, I'll need some help tracking that down. I looked at the schematic and it seems to come from the P300 board, so time will tell if I need to go treasure hunting. :cool:
     
  18. Steven Tate

    Steven Tate AK Subscriber Subscriber

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    Replaced the filter caps last night. Learned a lesson about terminal orientation. I first oriented the terminals on the new caps the same way they were on the originals. When I put the strap between positive of one cap to negative of the other, the result was not esthetically pleasing. You have to turn the metal strap upside down because the terminals are shorter on the new caps and it won't seat properly, so the strap was not horizontal the way I wanted it to be. So.....removed everything, repositioned the caps in the brackets and with trial and error, got it where the strap looked correct to me. Not a biggie, but it's the little things that count.....right?

    Old caps
    [​IMG]

    New caps with terminals oriented same as old ones -- it worked, but doesn't look good to me.
    [​IMG]

    Terminals reoriented in bracket -- looks better to me. I'm going to do a little rearranging of wires to get the non-grounded ones away from the bracket.
    [​IMG]
     
  19. MBuras

    MBuras Restoration is an Addiction Subscriber

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    Tidy work. Well done! Looking good so far. :thumbsup:
     
  20. Steven Tate

    Steven Tate AK Subscriber Subscriber

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    Thanks! I pulled the strip with the input indicator lamps and Stereo lamp and found that three of them had been replaced with non-standard incandescent bulbs. On one of them, they had left two very fine wires sticking out the back of the board and they were crossed and shorted. I replaced that and the Stereo bulb with LED's and both work. So with that out of the way, it's back to the boards. I'll replace all of the rest of the bulbs when I'm through with the board updating.
     
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