Steelman console worth picking up?
- Thread starter KeithD
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- console curtis mathes steelman
You might get a variety of answers for that question. When I replace e-caps I tend to navigate towards brands with a reputation for quality: Fischer & Tausche (F&T), Nichicon, Sprague. They cost a little more than more generically-branded caps but usually aren't super expensive. If I care about an amp I'm working on I want to put quality components inside.
Yes, I agree, just wasn't sure this was a critical application. The Nichicon replacements I found are radial, not axial, so that may just take a bit of stretching the leads out or using and additional wire to bridge the gap.
The guy I know who has replacements on hand tends to use anything that he happens to have, mostly lower cost Chinese stuff, I think.
General purpose caps with a high ripple current rating and a ideally a high temperature rating will do fine. I try to avoid the no-name in high voltage circuits. It makes me nervous that one might explode but I'm not married to any particular brand.
Sprague Atom caps exist in axial form if that will make life easier for you.
Sprague Atom caps exist in axial form if that will make life easier for you.
Looks like I can get high quality caps at Mouser or Digikey (Nichcon/Panasonic/Kemet), but I noticed axial are always more expensive. Need to make a comprehensive list of all caps I would need (including those speaker crossovers) so that shipping is not such a dent.
Do I need to go above 450V for the main filter caps? Selection is very limited above 450V and prices are higher.
Do I need to go above 450V for the main filter caps? Selection is very limited above 450V and prices are higher.
mashaffer
Super Member
450 should be fine. The main concern would be if the originals we just adequate the modern line voltage which often runs 5 or 6 V higher than it did when that unit was made then they might not like it. More than likely they built in enough buffer however.
If after recap the B+ seems to close for comfort you can use an inexpensive filiment transformer to "buck" it down.
If after recap the B+ seems to close for comfort you can use an inexpensive filiment transformer to "buck" it down.
Having a hard time reading printing on the speaker caps. Rating is 50, but can't read units. Would that be micro farads or nanofarads? Also, can't read the voltage at all. Any idea what the cap should be?? Each speaker array has one, and they are large waxy orange/brown color. Picture back in post #10.
mashaffer
Super Member
Grab some Dayton metalized film crossover caps from PE the voltage and power capability will be fine (you are using a low power amp. If it is a 1st order (just a cap in series with the tweets) it will probably be around 4 or 5 microfarad (uF).
mashaffer
Super Member
Talked to the local guy who fixes old stereos and he suggested checking that I had not disconnected a wire to the needle, which he said can cause hum. Checked those connections to make sure they were secure, and hum is now gone! So, all is working - turntable and external input. However, I must have one or more loose connections between the turntable and the amp. Left channel in particular can cut out at low volume, but if I turn the volume up or move the volume up and down, it will come back, and then will stay when I turn it back down to lower volume. I did deoxit all pots as well as all of the plug-in connections on the amp. Maybe there is a loose connection under the turntable mechanism? Will need to look at that. However, at least now I can give this stereo a good listen and see what I think. Sounds good using external tuner so far! 
Update: So, what appears to be happening is there is a hum when the tubes warm up and the caps are charging, and this hum fades away in about 15 seconds. So, I assume this is still leaky caps, but once charged the leaking is not significant?
Also, the selector knob has a "Balance" setting, and I'm not sure what that is supposed to do. Anyone have any ideas? When set to Balance I don't hear any sound out of the speakers, but the unit is on.
Also, the selector knob has a "Balance" setting, and I'm not sure what that is supposed to do. Anyone have any ideas? When set to Balance I don't hear any sound out of the speakers, but the unit is on.
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I'd expect it to be for left/right balance. probably some deal where it injects a signal and you adjust the balance control for it to be equal or nulled, depending on the setup. I have a Stromberg-Carlson that did that. The idea was if you got the balance control in the right spot, the tone would go away.
Thanks for the insight, gadget. There is a stereo balance "meter" above the knob. It does move a little bit when you turn the balance control to one side or another. I don't hear a tone when I've got the setting to balance, but all other sounds go away, even the hum when the capacitors are charging.
