SX-1000TW restore

loweran

loweran

Super Member
All, I am waiting on the arrival of an SX-1000TW. It is not in a working state but looks to power on without blowing fuses. I am not planning on touching the tuner at this point.

One question I have is are there viable replacement for the VR pots in the unit. It has a pair of 300 Ohm and 30K Ohm pots. I have not added outputs since I want to test what is in it first.

I built this list from the recap document found here. I had to modify two caps since they are obsolete. I replaced:

667-ECQ-V1H474JL .47uF 50v with MKS2B034701B00KO00
647-UKL1H010KDDANA 1uF 50v with 647-UKW1H010MDD1TD​

Here is what I have so far:


Head Amp Unit (W15-089)


W15-089: C101: 10uF 10v CEA: 647-UPW1E100MDD 10uF 25v
W15-089: C102: 10uF 10v CEA: 647-UPW1E100MDD 10uF 25v
W15-089: C105: 10uF 10v CEA: 647-UPW1E100MDD 10uF 25v
W15-089: C106: 10uF 10v CEA: 647-UPW1E100MDD 10uF 25v
W15-089: C109: 100uF 25v CEA: 647-UPW1E101MED 100uF 25v
W15-089: C110: 100uF 25v CEA: 647-UPW1E101MED 100uF 25v
W15-089: C111: 100uF 3v CEA: 647-UPW1A101MDD6 100uF 10v
W15-089: C112: 100uF 3v CEA: 647-UPW1A101MDD6 100uF 10v
W15-089: C113: 10uF 16v CEA: 647-UPW1E100MDD 10uF 25v
W15-089: C114: 10uF 16v CEA: 647-UPW1E100MDD 10uF 25v

W15-089: Q101: 2SC458LG : 2SC1845
W15-089: Q102: 2SC458LG : 2SC1845
W15-089: Q103: 2SC458LG : 2SC1845
W15-089: Q104: 2SC458LG : 2SC1845

Control Amp Unit (W15-090)

W15-090: C1: .47uF 25v CSSA: MKS2B034701B00KO00 .47uF 50v
W15-090: C2: .47uF 25v CSSA: MKS2B034701B00KO00 .47uF 50v
W15-090: C5: 1uF 16v CSSA: 647-UKW1H010MDD1TD 1uF 50v
W15-090: C6: 1uF 16v CSSA: 647-UKW1H010MDD1TD 1uF 50v
W15-090: C7: 100uF 50v CEA: 647-UPW1H101MPD 100uF 50v
W15-090: C8: 100uF 50v CEA: 647-UPW1H101MPD 100uF 50v
W15-090: C13: 47uF 25v CEA: 647-UPW1V470MED 47uF 35v
W15-090: C14: 47uF 25v CEA: 647-UPW1V470MED 47uF 35v
W15-090: C15: 33uF 6.3v CEA: 647-UPW1A330MDD6 33uF 10v
W15-090: C16: 33uF 6.3v CEA: 647-UPW1A330MDD6 33uF 10v
W15-090: C17: 3.3uF 25v CSSA: 647-UKL1H3R3KDDANA 3.3uF 50v
W15-090: C18: 3.3uF 25v CSSA: 647-UKL1H3R3KDDANA 3.3uF 50v

W15-090: Q801: 2SC458LG : 2SC1845
W15-090: Q802: 2SC458LG : 2SC1845
W15-090: Q805: 2SC458LG : 2SC1845
W15-090: Q806: 2SC458LG : 2SC1845

Main Amp Unit (W15-091)

W15-091: C801: 10uF 16v CEA: 647-UPW1E100MDD 10uF 25v
W15-091: C802: 10uF 16v CEA: 647-UPW1E100MDD 10uF 25v
W15-091: C803: 100uF 16v CEA: 647-UPW1E101MED 100uF 25v
W15-091: C804: 100uF 16v CEA: 647-UPW1E101MED 100uF 25v
W15-091: C807: 4.7uF 25v NP: 647-UES1V4R7MDM 4.7uF 35v
W15-091: C808: 4.7uF 25v NP: 647-UES1V4R7MDM 4.7uF 35v
W15-091: C809: 47uF 25v CEA: 647-UPW1V470MED 47uF 35v
W15-091: C810: 47uF 25v CEA: 647-UPW1V470MED 47uF 35v
W15-091: C813: 100uF 50v CEA: 647-UPW1H101MPD 100uF 50v
W15-091: C814: 100uF 50v CEA: 647-UPW1H101MPD 100uF 50v
W15-091: C817: 100uF 6.3v CEA: 647-UPW1A101MDD6 100uF 10v
W15-091: C818: 100uF 6.3v CEA: 647-UPW1A101MDD6 100uF 10v
W15-091: C821: .47uF 50v CSSA: MKS2B034701B00KO00 .47uF 50v
W15-091: C822: .47uF 50v CSSA: MKS2B034701B00KO00 .47uF 50


Power Supply Unit (W16-010)

W16-010: C901: 100uF 50v CEA: 647-UPW1H101MPD 100uF 50v
W16-010: C902: 10uF 50v CEA: 647-UPW1H100MDD 10uF 50v
W16-010: C903: 100uF 50v CEA: 647-UPW1H101MPD 100uF 50v
W16-010: C904: 220uF 50v CEA: 647-UPW1H221MPD 220uF 50v
W16-010: C905: 220uF 50v CEA: 647-UPW1H221MPD 220uF 50v
W16-010: C906: 220uF 16v CEA: 647-UPW1E221MPD 220uF 25v
 
Last edited:
Having spent some time in a couple of those, I recommend that you search AK for all the threads talking about working on them.

Find the one with the main amp transistor replacements suggested by MTF.
I think one of those threads explains how to adjust the amp, study that.

When you get it, test all the large cement resistors in the bottom, or better yet, replace them all.

Find the thread started by Echowars about using series diodes for STV-3 and STV-4 replacement. Hopefully you won't need to go there but one of mine had flacky bias diodes.

Be ready to test all the resistors on the main amp.

If you think a re-cap will fix a non-working unit, I am sorry to tell you, it probably won't.
 
Thanks for the insight!

Do you know what the typical failure points of the set are?

As for the above, I want to respond with material that I think apply so others can find this in a consolidated thread.

blhagstrom said:
When you get it, test all the large cement resistors in the bottom, or better yet, replace them all.
Click to expand...
I will just replace them. Once I lift the leg out, I am half way there.

blhagstrom said:
Find the one with the main amp transistor replacements suggested by MTF.
I think one of those threads explains how to adjust the amp, study that.
Click to expand...
Already done. The recommended output replacement is 863-MJ21194G.
I looked at this thread which I felt was the best detail on the bias procedure: http://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/pioneer-sx-1000tw-bias-set-procedure.114343/

blhagstrom said:
Find the thread started by Echowars about using series diodes for STV-3 and STV-4 replacement. Hopefully you won't need to go there but one of mine had flacky bias diodes.
Click to expand...
I am familiar with the methods of using diode strings found here: http://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/replacing-the-stv-3h-and-4h-diodes.279530/
 
From what I found and what I've read here, resistors on the amp seem to go, along with the transistors. Plan on a detailed test on the amp.

You've located the right threads, but there was one more with recommended small transistors for the amp.

The one I rescued had problems everywhere.

Hoping you don't end up on that road.
 
Well, it arrived. It's not shorted, but the seller stated that it doesn't work. I have not tried it on sacrificial speakers yet to see if it makes sound. Should be fun. I need to open it up tomorrow and take a look.

Power lamp works. I think the stereo lamp works, but no dial lights.

Serial says June of '68.
 
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loweran said:
Well, it arrived. It's not shorted, but the seller stated that it doesn't work. I have not tried it on sacrificial speakers yet to see if it makes sound. Should be fun. I need to open it up tomorrow and take a look.

Power lamp works. I think the stereo lamp works, but no dial lights.

Serial says June of '68.
Click to expand...

Got any pictures?
 
Good news. Both channels work and the tuner is spot on even without an antenna. Pots are atrocious, especially the balance. I will have to clean those up well.
 

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I am afraid to clean the top with air to avoid getting dust into the tuner fins. I could try and cover them some how.
 

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loweran said:
All, I am waiting on the arrival of an SX-1000TW. It is not in a working state but looks to power on without blowing fuses. I am not planning on touching the tuner at this point.

One question I have is are there viable replacement for the VR pots in the unit. It has a pair of 300 Ohm and 30K Ohm pots. I have not added outputs since I want to test what is in it first.

I built this list from the recap document found here. I had to modify two caps since they are obsolete. I replaced:

667-ECQ-V1H474JL .47uF 50v with MKS2B034701B00KO00
647-UKL1H010KDDANA 1uF 50v with 647-UKW1H010MDD1TD​

Here is what I have so far:


Head Amp Unit (W15-089)


W15-089: C101: 10uF 10v CEA: 647-UPW1E100MDD 10uF 25v
W15-089: C102: 10uF 10v CEA: 647-UPW1E100MDD 10uF 25v
W15-089: C105: 10uF 10v CEA: 647-UPW1E100MDD 10uF 25v
W15-089: C106: 10uF 10v CEA: 647-UPW1E100MDD 10uF 25v
W15-089: C109: 100uF 25v CEA: 647-UPW1E101MED 100uF 25v
W15-089: C110: 100uF 25v CEA: 647-UPW1E101MED 100uF 25v
W15-089: C111: 100uF 3v CEA: 647-UPW1A101MDD6 100uF 10v
W15-089: C112: 100uF 3v CEA: 647-UPW1A101MDD6 100uF 10v
W15-089: C113: 10uF 16v CEA: 647-UPW1E100MDD 10uF 25v
W15-089: C114: 10uF 16v CEA: 647-UPW1E100MDD 10uF 25v

W15-089: Q101: 2SC458LG : 2SC1845
W15-089: Q102: 2SC458LG : 2SC1845
W15-089: Q103: 2SC458LG : 2SC1845
W15-089: Q104: 2SC458LG : 2SC1845

Control Amp Unit (W15-090)

W15-090: C1: .47uF 25v CSSA: MKS2B034701B00KO00 .47uF 50v
W15-090: C2: .47uF 25v CSSA: MKS2B034701B00KO00 .47uF 50v
W15-090: C5: 1uF 16v CSSA: 647-UKW1H010MDD1TD 1uF 50v
W15-090: C6: 1uF 16v CSSA: 647-UKW1H010MDD1TD 1uF 50v
W15-090: C7: 100uF 50v CEA: 647-UPW1H101MPD 100uF 50v
W15-090: C8: 100uF 50v CEA: 647-UPW1H101MPD 100uF 50v
W15-090: C13: 47uF 25v CEA: 647-UPW1V470MED 47uF 35v
W15-090: C14: 47uF 25v CEA: 647-UPW1V470MED 47uF 35v
W15-090: C15: 33uF 6.3v CEA: 647-UPW1A330MDD6 33uF 10v
W15-090: C16: 33uF 6.3v CEA: 647-UPW1A330MDD6 33uF 10v
W15-090: C17: 3.3uF 25v CSSA: 647-UKL1H3R3KDDANA 3.3uF 50v
W15-090: C18: 3.3uF 25v CSSA: 647-UKL1H3R3KDDANA 3.3uF 50v

W15-090: Q801: 2SC458LG : 2SC1845
W15-090: Q802: 2SC458LG : 2SC1845
W15-090: Q805: 2SC458LG : 2SC1845
W15-090: Q806: 2SC458LG : 2SC1845

Main Amp Unit (W15-091)

W15-091: C801: 10uF 16v CEA: 647-UPW1E100MDD 10uF 25v
W15-091: C802: 10uF 16v CEA: 647-UPW1E100MDD 10uF 25v
W15-091: C803: 100uF 16v CEA: 647-UPW1E101MED 100uF 25v
W15-091: C804: 100uF 16v CEA: 647-UPW1E101MED 100uF 25v
W15-091: C807: 4.7uF 25v NP: 647-UES1V4R7MDM 4.7uF 35v
W15-091: C808: 4.7uF 25v NP: 647-UES1V4R7MDM 4.7uF 35v
W15-091: C809: 47uF 25v CEA: 647-UPW1V470MED 47uF 35v
W15-091: C810: 47uF 25v CEA: 647-UPW1V470MED 47uF 35v
W15-091: C813: 100uF 50v CEA: 647-UPW1H101MPD 100uF 50v
W15-091: C814: 100uF 50v CEA: 647-UPW1H101MPD 100uF 50v
W15-091: C817: 100uF 6.3v CEA: 647-UPW1A101MDD6 100uF 10v
W15-091: C818: 100uF 6.3v CEA: 647-UPW1A101MDD6 100uF 10v
W15-091: C821: .47uF 50v CSSA: MKS2B034701B00KO00 .47uF 50v
W15-091: C822: .47uF 50v CSSA: MKS2B034701B00KO00 .47uF 50


Power Supply Unit (W16-010)

W16-010: C901: 100uF 50v CEA: 647-UPW1H101MPD 100uF 50v
W16-010: C902: 10uF 50v CEA: 647-UPW1H100MDD 10uF 50v
W16-010: C903: 100uF 50v CEA: 647-UPW1H101MPD 100uF 50v
W16-010: C904: 220uF 50v CEA: 647-UPW1H221MPD 220uF 50v
W16-010: C905: 220uF 50v CEA: 647-UPW1H221MPD 220uF 50v
W16-010: C906: 220uF 16v CEA: 647-UPW1E221MPD 220uF 25v
Click to expand...
Go Randy. We can have a capping party. Bourbon and caps
 
Cleaned the pots a bit and it's already much better. Going to have to hit them again. The balance knob has a good deal of resistance so that makes for fun. Pulls in FM with no antenna. This thing is old!

All the .7 Ohm resistors measure .7 Ohms in circuit.
 

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Blow out the tuner fins with air. Won't hurt them. better air than leaving debris using a brush. (yeah they do leave debris which wreaks havoc with tuning as the cap is air coupled.) If the tuning is off, make sure 1st that the tuning pin stops at ZERO on the log scale. If it does and the tuning pin is more than .5mHz off it'll need to be adjusted by the trimmers using the procedure in the manual. Or just leave it be or take to a shop that does alignments. These are a PITA to align. I have a parts TW that has donated parts to my working TD (ALLIED 395) the MPX board. It'll probably donate more parts too down the road. .
 
Thanks Larry! I need to pick up some of that CRC as well. Still need to clean out my daughters 838 tuner.

The alignment is spot on right now. I don't know if I should touch the tuner for fear of knocking it out.

I think I have a complete cap list but still need the 1000uF caps. Anyone have a part number for replacing those? Otherwise I will measure and match up the best I can.
 
It looks like I will just have to stuff the cans.

Here are my home made speaker plugs.
 

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Anyone know how to get into the switches for cleaning?

EDIT: I found the super small holes in the back. Eyes are failing me.
 
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Got the controls clean and lubed. Checked the bias and adjusted. Getting 94 on pin 6 so set pi 9 to 47. Set the voltages to 14MV at the resistors on the caps. Then hooked it up to my EPIs for a test run. Left channel sounds real good. Right channel is distorted a bit and weaker. Getting my order together now.
 
The 1000TW is a very nice sounding unit for what it is. I have a completely original, unmolested one and it always puts a smile on my face.
I hope you get your sorted soon and without too much headache.
Here are some pics of mine. The way you see it is the way I bought it.
The only blemish is the chip in the centre of the wood at the front. Otherwise it's pretty minty.

View attachment 1001881

IMG_1902.jpg IMG_1903 (1).jpg IMG_1901.jpg IMG_1904.jpg IMG_1908.jpg DSC05505.JPG IMG_1905 (1).jpg IMG_1907.jpg DSC05506.JPG
 
Looks great man. Really nice cosmetic shape. I am firstly concerned with the electronic soundness but will be working on the asethics once the internals are sorted.

I am thankful that mine is in working order and hope that after the components are refreshed it will sound as it did the day the original owner purchased it.

Mine has a case that is a little rougher than yours but I will just shine it up and chalk off the marks as patina.
 
I am getting ready to place my order. I also added these transistor replacements:

Power Supply
W16-010: Q301 2sc627 - 522-ZTX694B
W16-010: Q302 2sc620 - 522-ZTX694B
W16-010: Q303 2sc486 - 522-ZTX694B

W15-089 Q101 2sc458LG - KSC1845
W15-089 Q102 2sc458LG - KSC1845
W15-089 Q103 2sc458LG - KSC1845
W15-089 Q104 2sc458LG - KSC1845

W15-090 Q1 2sc871 - KSC1845
W15-090 Q2 2sc871 - KSC1845
W15-090 Q3 2sc870 - KSC1845
W15-090 Q4 2sc870 - KSC1845

W15-091 Q801 2sc458LG - KSC1845
W15-091 Q802 2sc458LG - KSC1845
 
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