SX-1010 AM I GETTING CLOSE??

Discussion in 'Pioneer Audio' started by TigMan, Jan 18, 2019.

  1. zebulon1

    zebulon1 Building a new bench. Finally! Subscriber

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    We're back to pin 12. It's missing the 7.5v AC.
    This is going to take some thought.
    So when the panel lights are on the 7.5vAC is missing?
    The voltage on pin 12 of the protection board is also part of the lighting circuit.
     

     

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  2. zebulon1

    zebulon1 Building a new bench. Finally! Subscriber

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    Move the dimmer switch to "DIM" and recheck pin 12 AWM-062.
    Check for AC voltage on Fuse 1 (Both side of the fuse) of AWR-053. Should be around 7.5 volts AC.

    In post #2 i mentioned the lighting circuit.
     
  3. TigMan

    TigMan New Member

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    I'll be home to get those readings in just a few hours. But something else to chew on... back in the days of my very first post with you, when I was blowing the two fuses, the dash lights did in fact work on both settings. I would flip the power switch, immediately the first two 1A fuses would blow, but the stereo would sit there and go bright or dim when I pressed the button.
     
  4. tsd71

    tsd71 RIP Tom Petty

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    What a mess, I'm sure the last "tech" really effed this one up. Me, I would just start over, clean out the damn thing first so you can at least see whats going on, look for the parts list BOM, and dive into it. Not a very easy unit to work on but if you take your time and listen you will be fine. This unit needs a complete overhaul.
     
  5. TigMan

    TigMan New Member

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    It wasn't until I fixed the parts mentioned in post 1, that the lights started doing this, and the tuning needle started moving(which it did not do before). It won't move like it's finding frequencies, it has literally one spot it jumps to for FM, then a different spot for AM.
     
  6. tsd71

    tsd71 RIP Tom Petty

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    Pioneer SX-1010 recap list
    This is "mattsd" list that I use:
    Thank you Matt and MTF
    Notes:
    This list has the 5 %, 63v, WIMA films listed/incorporated, ECQ's are no longer available.
    Some E-caps my require a voltage increase up if unavailable.
    The cap height on the PS is most critical as the head room between the bottom cover is at issue.

    Muting Assembly (AWM-039-A)

    AWM-039-A: C1: .47uF 50v CEA: 505-MKS2C034701CJSSD .47uF 50v
    AWM-039-A: C2: 47uF 50v CEA: 505-MKS2C034701CJSSD 47uF 50v

    Equalizer Amp Assembly (AWF-013-0) (Q1 & Q3 and Q2 & Q4 should ideally be gain matched, this is optional though)

    AWF-013-0: C1: 2.2uF 25v CSSA: 647-UKL1H2R2KDDANA 2.2uF 50v
    AWF-013-0: C2: 2.2uF 25v CSSA: 647-UKL1H2R2KDDANA 2.2uF 50v
    AWF-013-0: C5: 470uF 6.3v CEANL: 647-UKL1C471KPD 470uF 16v
    AWF-013-0: C6: 470uF 6.3v CEANL: 647-UKL1C471KPD 470uF 16v
    AWF-013-0: C9: 100uF 6.3v CEANL: 647-UKL1E101KPDANA 100uF 25v
    AWF-013-0: C10: 100uF 6.3v CEANL: 647-UKL1E101KPDANA 100uF 25v
    AWF-013-0: C11: 10uF 10v CEANL: 647-UKL1C100MDDANA 10uF 16v
    AWF-013-0: C12: 10uF 10v CEANL: 647-UKL1C100MDDANA 10uF 16v
    AWF-013-0: C19: 100uF 25v CEANL: 647-UKL1E101KPDANA 100uF 25v
    AWF-013-0: C20: 100uF 25v CEANL: 647-UKL1E101KPDANA 100uF 25v
    AWF-013-0: C21: 220uF 16v CEANL: 647-UKL1C221KPDANA 220uF 16v

    Q1: 2SA725: 512-KSA992FBU
    Q2: 2SA725: 512-KSA992FBU
    Q3: 2SA725: 512-KSA992FBU
    Q4: 2SA725: 512-KSA992FBU
    Q5: 2SC1313: 512-KSC1845FTA
    Q6: 2SC1313: 512-KSC1845FTA
    Q7: 2SC1313: 512-KSC1845FTA
    Q8: 2SC1313: 512-KSC1845FTA

    Control Amp Assembly (AWG-027-0) (Check C49-52, the A version of this board has them as 100uF 16v CEA instead of 47uF 16v CEA like the manual states)

    AWG-027-0: C1: .33uF 25v: CSSA: 505-MKS20.33/63/5 .33uF 63v
    AWG-027-0: C2: .33uF 25v: CSSA: 505-MKS20.33/63/5 .33uF 63v
    AWG-027-0: C7: 100uF 10v CEA: 667-EEU-FM1E101 100uF 25v
    AWG-027-0: C8: 100uF 10v CEA: 667-EEU-FM1E101 100uF 25v
    AWG-027-0: C13: 2.2uF 25v CSSA: 647-UKL1H2R2KDDANA 2.2uF 50v
    AWG-027-0: C14: 2.2uF 25v CSSA: 647-UKL1H2R2KDDANA 2.2uF 50v
    AWG-027-0: C15: 4.7uF 50v CEA: 667-EEU-FC1H4R7 4.7uF 50v
    AWG-027-0: C16: 4.7uF 50v CEA: 667-EEU-FC1H4R7 4.7uF 50v
    AWG-027-0: C23: 4.7uF 25v CEANL: 647-UKL1H4R7KDDANA 4.7uF 50v
    AWG-027-0: C24: 4.7uF 25v CEANL: 647-UKL1H4R7KDDANA 4.7uF 50v
    AWG-027-0: C25: 10uF 16v CEA: 667-EEU-FC1H100L 10uF 50v
    AWG-027-0: C26: 10uF 16v CEA: 667-EEU-FC1H100L 10uF 50v
    AWG-027-0: C29: 100uF 10v CEA: 667-EEU-FM1E101 100uF 25v
    AWG-027-0: C30: 100uF 10v CEA: 667-EEU-FM1E101 100uF 25v
    AWG-027-0: C31: 4.7uF 50v CEA: 667-EEU-FC1H4R7 4.7uF 50v
    AWG-027-0: C32: 4.7uF 50v CEA: 667-EEU-FC1H4R7 4.7uF 50v
    AWG-027-0: C39: 4.7uF 25v CEANL: 647-UKL1H4R7KDDANA 4.7uF 50v
    AWG-027-0: C40: 4.7uF 25v CEANL: 647-UKL1H4R7KDDANA 4.7uF 50v
    AWG-027-0: C41: 10uF 16v CEA: 667-EEU-FC1H100L 10uF 50v
    AWG-027-0: C42: 10uF 16v CEA: 667-EEU-FC1H100L 10uF 50v
    AWG-027-0: C45: 100uF 10v CEA: 667-EEU-FM1E101 100uF 25v
    AWG-027-0: C46: 100uF 10v CEA: 667-EEU-FM1E101 100uF 25v
    AWG-027-0: C47: 2.2uF 25v CSSA: 647-UKL1H2R2KDDANA 2.2uF 50v
    AWG-027-0: C48: 2.2uF 25v CSSA: 647-UKL1H2R2KDDANA 2.2uF 50v
    AWG-027-0: C49: 47uF 16v CEA or 100uF 16v CEA: 667-EEU-FM1E101 100uF 25v or 667-EEU-FM1E470 47uF 25v
    AWG-027-0: C50: 47uF 16v CEA or 100uF 16v CEA: 667-EEU-FM1E101 100uF 25v or 667-EEU-FM1E470 47uF 25v
    AWG-027-0: C51: 47uF 16v CEA or 100uF 16v CEA: 667-EEU-FM1E101 100uF 25v or 667-EEU-FM1E470 47uF 25v
    AWG-027-0: C52: 47uF 16v CEA or 100uF 16v CEA: 667-EEU-FM1E101 100uF 25v or 667-EEU-FM1E470 47uF 25v

    Q1: 2SA725: 512-KSA992FBU
    Q2: 2SA725: 512-KSA992FBU
    Q3: 2SC1313: 512-KSC1845FTA
    Q4: 2SC1313: 512-KSC1845FTA
    Q5: 2SC1313: 512-KSC1845FTA
    Q6: 2SC1313: 512-KSC1845FTA
    Q7: 2SC1313: 512-KSC1845FTA
    Q8: 2SC1313: 512-KSC1845FTA

    Power Amp Assembly (AWH-032-0) (Times two) (Check board number, the D version does not have the 1.5uF cap.) (Q1 and Q2 should ideally be gain matched, this is optional though)

    AWH-032-0: C1: .68uF 25v CSSA: 505-MKS20.68/63/5 .68uF 50v
    AWH-032-0: C2: 1.5uF 25v CSSA: 647-UKL1H1R5MDD1TA 1.5uF 50v (CHECK FOR THIS BEFORE ORDERING!!)
    AWH-032-0: C4: 10uF 16v CEA: 647-UPW1E100MDD 10uF 25v
    AWH-032-0: C8: 330uF 6.3v CEA: 647-UPW1A331MPD 330uF 10v

    Q1: 2SA726: 512-KSA992FBU
    Q2: 2SA726: 512-KSA992FBU
    Q3: 2SA726: 512-KSA992FBU
    Q5: 2SC1451: 512-KSC3503DSTU
    Q6: 2SC1451: 512-KSC3503DSTU

    VR1: 2.2K ohm multi offset: 652-3296P-1-202LF 2K ohm 25 turn
    VR2: 470 ohm single bias: 652-3386H-1-501LF 500 ohm single turn

    Protection Assembly (AWM-062-0)

    AWM-062-0: C1: .22uF 10v CSSA: 505-MKS20.22/63/5 .22uF 63v
    AWM-062-0: C2: .22uF 10v CSSA: 505-MKS20.22/63/5 .22uF 63v
    AWM-062-0: C3: 330uF 6.3v CEA: 647-UPW1A331MPD 330uF 10v
    AWM-062-0: C4: 330uF 6.3v CEA: 647-UPW1A331MPD 330uF 10v
    AWM-062-0: C5: 4.7uF 25v CEA: 647-UPW1V4R7MDD 4.7uF 35v
    AWM-062-0: C6: 100uF 16v CEA: 647-UPW1E101MED 100uF 25v

    Q1: 2SC869: 512-KSC1845FTA
    Q2: 2SC869: 512-KSC1845FTA
    Q6: 2SC945: 512-KSC2383YTA
    Q7: 2SC1384: 512-KSC2690AYS
    1N4004 flyback diode is added between pins 9 (anode +) and 10 (cathode -)

    Power Supply Assembly (AWR-054-0) (Stand the new resistors up off the board about a half inch)

    AWR-054-0: C8: 470uF 80v CEA: 647-UPW2A471MHD 470uF 100v
    AWR-054-0: C9: 470uF 80v CEA: 647-UPW2A471MHD 470uF 100v
    AWR-054-0: C10: 100uF 63v CEA: 647-UPW2A101MHD 100uF 100v
    AWR-054-0: C11: 100uF 63v CEA: 647-UPW2A101MHD 100uF 100v
    AWR-054-0: C12: 100uF 35v CEA: 647-UPW1H101MPD 100uF 50v
    AWR-054-0: C13: 100uF 35v CEA: 647-UPW1H101MPD 100uF 50v
    AWR-054-0: C14: 47uF 50v CEA: 647-UPW1J470MPD 47uF 63v
    AWR-054-0: C18: 1000uF 35v CEA: 647-UPW1H102MHD 1000uF 50v
    AWR-054-0: C19: 220uF 16v CEA: 647-UPW1V221MPD6 220uF 35v
    AWR-054-0: C20: 2200uF 10v CEA: 647-UPW1C222MHD 2200uF 16v
    AWR-054-0: C21: 2200uF 10v CEA: 647-UPW1C222MHD 2200uF 16v

    R11: 10 Ohm 1/4 watt: 660-MFS1/2DCT52R10R0 10 Ohm 1/2 watt
    R12: 10 Ohm 1/4 watt: 660-MFS1/2DCT52R10R0 10 Ohm 1/2 watt
    R20: 3.3 Ohm 1/4 watt: 660-MF1/2DCT52R3R32F 3.32 Ohm 1/2 watt
    R21: 10 Ohm 1/4 watt: 660-MFS1/2DCT52R10R0 10 Ohm 1/2 watt

    Q1: 2SD313: 863-MJE15032G
    Q2: 2SC869: 512-KSC2383YTA
    Q3: 2SC869: 512-KSC2383YTA
    Q4: 2SB507: 863-MJE15033G
    Q5: 2SA628A: 512-KSA1013YBU
    Q6: 2SA628A: 512-KSA1013YBU
    Q7: 2SD313: 863-MJE15032G
    Q8: 2SC1384: 512-KSC2690AYS

    Main filter caps, 18000uF 63v, 50mm dia x 90mm high:

    (Digi-Key) 565-3331-ND, 18000uF 75v screw terminal 50.80mm dia x 79.38mm high
    (Mouser) 661-E36D750N183TC79M, 18000uF 75v screw terminal 50.80mm dia x 79.38mm high

    BOM List (with 4 100uF 25v caps for the tone amp, does not include the filter caps or the 1.5uF cap, add if needed)
     

     

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  7. TigMan

    TigMan New Member

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    Thanks for that, I appreciate it. I was afraid someone was gonna say that I did have a blast recapping that power supply board, I could do that all day long, just dreading getting into those spiral pin connectors and the great unknown. Everything I've done so far I've been able to just flip up enough to work. Any idea how much people generally spend on all that?
     
  8. TigMan

    TigMan New Member

    Messages:
    39
    Boy I sure wish you guys were here to see this. There's gremlins in this thing, it's the only explanation. I was checking voltages on fuse 1 and its corresponding pins, 3&14. Got readings anywhere from mid 5V down to a couple mV. That is until I was testing the fuse and heard clicking! It was the main relay! So long story short I think what is happening is possibly the fuse holder itself has a bad connection. It got to the point I could engage the relay by barely touching fuse 1 with the needles. I went ahead and hooked up a dud speaker and sure enough... I was listening to an AM sports channel. It did all kinds of funny stuff, scratchy pots, pushing the dimmer switch shut off the lights, sound in and out, but literally the more I messed with it the more it seemed to start working. The lights do get dim and bright using the button now, and it sits on my bench able to turn on. Im speechless and not really sure where to start now. Should I start by pulling the fuse board to check the fuse block connections? Also I heard it was wise to measure the speaker voltage to make sure there is no DC?? I did that and DC reads zero if not a tad negative on both speaker wires while playing. Here are my actual readings now while the AM station is playing. Still plugged into my dim bulb tester...
    Pin 12 on protection board
    5.1V dimmer switch out(bright)
    5.6V dimmer switch in(dim)
    Pin 3 and 14 on the fuse board and edges of the fuse itself tested 5.54V all across while dimmer button pushed in. Dimmer button out:
    Pin 14= 4.93V
    Pin 3 = 5.23 V
    Sorry so long winded. I spent almost 2 hours messing with it and it seemed to do something new every 5 minutes.
     
  9. tsd71

    tsd71 RIP Tom Petty

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    I usually pull the fuses and with a needle nose pliers i bend the contacts back in together, that gives the fuse a good bite and wont come loose. Had this issue with a 737 and it drove me crazy for awhile, now I do this with every receiver I work on.
     
  10. paultlaw

    paultlaw Active Member

    Messages:
    480
    You are doing great - keep at it, the guys here are second to no one when it comes to the pioneers - you are in good hands.
    My 2 cents is go get all the pots cleaned with deoxit and faderlube, it may minise the number of odd things that happen every 5 minutes
    - order your parts - power and protection boards to be tackled first.
    Sounds like someone was at your unit and did not make an ideal job of it.
    Good luck!
     
  11. zebulon1

    zebulon1 Building a new bench. Finally! Subscriber

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    Good job.

    Like we said before. From the looks of things in the images, the amps need some help using new components. The protection brought up to specs and the power supply restored with new caps and silicon.
     

     

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  12. TigMan

    TigMan New Member

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    Sounds good. Im going to start going through that list TSD sent me and dig on in. A couple final questions here...
    What do you mean by silicon on the boards?
    When I need a hand in the future, is it best to just start a new post, as opposed to trying to dig up this current one?
    I've got a few lamps that are out, is an LED swap a good idea to add to my first bag of goodies?
    And any good pointers on direction or tools etc. for diving into things with the spiral pin connectors(Amps in particular)??
    I sure do appreciate all the help guys. I probably would've given up and bought a brand new sony by this point if I didn't have your help, but I already feel so much more passion for just getting this far.
     
  13. zebulon1

    zebulon1 Building a new bench. Finally! Subscriber

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    Search:
    Wire wrap connections. Audiokarma
    Silicon = Transistors and diodes
    LED's are a good swap for the fuse lamps but the function lamps are much more complex and work to replace. Doable but maybe wait and do those later.
    Keep this post going. The thread title is fine.
    A de-soldering tool makes it fun.
    One more note on the wire wraps. Never remove them. Leave the boards connected to the wires and pins. You might break one or two when manhandling them. They can be managed. the harness can be loosened from the plastic keepers giving lots of access.
    Lots of things to learn but you seem like you have the basics to get through it. No hurry. Enjoy the experience. Very rewarding when it operates like it should.
    I would start on the protection board. Its fairly easy access and it will be a good warm up.
    Only one board at a time, running the receiver and testing between each board. Don't get ahead of your posts.
     
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  14. TigMan

    TigMan New Member

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    Hey TSD, i'm starting to go through and get a shopping list together based on the parts you sent. It looks like a lot of these alternatives are "film capacitors" as opposed to electrolytic, pictures on mouser come up as a red square type. Am I doing this correctly? Are they just all around better replacements that you guys tend to use when possible? And am I correct that the list is the"stock capacitor" with an"alternative capacitor" listed second? Seems pretty obvious, I just wanted to make sure before I drop the coin. Thanks!
     
  15. tsd71

    tsd71 RIP Tom Petty

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    This is MattSD’s list, anything he puts together I would advise you to follow. The square red are film capacitors and are correct for the locations. Order the list if you are gonna refurb the entire unit (which I always do) what’s the sense of having a unit open and just replace a few parts here and there. I like all new components. Once done and done right this should last you a very long time. If some of the components on the list are obsolete or not in stock come back here and ask for a secondary replacement part. Don’t get discouraged and keep going. Huge rewards coming for you.
     
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  16. TigMan

    TigMan New Member

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    While making my list of the protection board I came across two questions. The film capacitors listed for C1&2 are on backorder, I found these that appear to be the same except a 10% instead of 5% tolerance, would they be okay? Part # is:
    MKS0C032200C00KSSD
    Then when I look for a 1n4004 diode, all the plain jane ones are obsolete, but there's a million with different sub reference numbers. Is there one in particular you suggest? Thanks!
     

     

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  17. tsd71

    tsd71 RIP Tom Petty

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  18. TigMan

    TigMan New Member

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    So I finished the muting board and about to finish the protection board. The protection board had three transistors I didn't like the looks of. After the parts swap there's only one questionable one.
    Q5 is supposed to be # 2SA733
    It is in fact # A984KE1A
    Is that an adequate substitute? If not I also have the 2SC869 OR 2SC945 I pulled from the other location, would either of those work? And if neither of the above is good and I need to buy new, any suggested part #'s?
    Otherwise this is going well so far and i'm having a blast. The protection board looked like diarrhea before I started and I would now eat dinner with it on my plate if I had to.
     
  19. zebulon1

    zebulon1 Building a new bench. Finally! Subscriber

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    2SA733 = KSA733CGBU still available.
    Is 2SC869 OR 2SC945 an adequate substitute? NO. The 2SA733 is a PNP and the other is a NPN.
    Bone up on the transistor differences. It will take a little time to cipher it by yourself. Stick with it.
    Until then maybe a device like this will help you keep things straight.
    Check this out
     
  20. tsd71

    tsd71 RIP Tom Petty

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    You can use a KSA992 at Q5 of the protection board

    Q7-KSC2690
    Q6-KSC2383
    Q4-KSC1845
    Q3-KSC1845
    Q2-KSC1845
    Q1-KSC1845

    D8-1N4004, all other diodes 1N4148, flyback diode 1N4004 between pins 9 & 10(cathode)(stripe)
     
    Last edited: Feb 3, 2019

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