SX-1010 dial lamps - how many? how bright?

steveUK

Active Member
My recently acquired SX-1010 seems to have most (if not 'nearly all') of its lamps working, but there's a dull spot around 105MHz on the main scale. I'm guessing there's a lamp out at that point? how many lamps illuminate the main dial? I'm guessing there should be four, and it looks like I've got just three? Otherwise, when I operate all the switches, where applicable the relevant lamps illuminate so at least they all seem to be ok. One other point, all of the lamps don't seem to be particularly bright even when the bright lamp mode is selected. I mean, I don't actually want 'in your face' LED style brightness, but was wondering if the lamps' supply voltage was down or something. Can anyone confirm, are they 'subtle' even on bright mode? Thanks.

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Just found the answer to my first question by referring to the SM. There are six dial lamps, 8v, 0.3A festoon (fuse) type. Who can supply these?
 
The go to guy for lamps, hands down.
http://www.wjoe.com/diallamps.htm

Best to email him and describe the lamps you need. For the sx-1010 he has a kit with all the sizes.
He also will do Ala carte if needed.

Opps: I see your in the UK, he might ship to the UK.
 
Thanks guys. On reflection I have purchased lamps from djwojo before. However, I found some LED replacements on the bay for £8.45 for quantity 8 (plus postage to UK). That's a bargain. I realise they'll be brighter than the incandescent ones, but as I alluded to in my first post, with this set I'd actually like them to be a bit brighter. Plus there's always the dimmer pushbutton if they are too bright. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/252637988262?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
 
Hmm, out of interest and further to my last post, I'm confused, are these two people different or one and the same? They've got very similar names! :

http://www.wjoe.com/diallamps.htm

https://sites.google.com/site/dgwojocom/

Same guy.
Nope. Sorry!!!


They are TWO DIFFERENT people.

Now, as to the SX-1010, the dimmer switch burns up with incandescent lamps, and I have never found a mechanical replacement (I've tried HARD - unusual pin spacing and other physical details that match no other switch in any pioneer unit or catalog) the best we can do is to rehabilitate the switch as much as possible, then either switch to lower current LEDS OR use the switch to control an EXTRA relay that then does the actual switching of lamp power. I have done both.

The dimmer switch can get so badly burned that the phenolic body falls apart, which then means paying through the nose for an ebay replacement from a donor sx-1010 & sx-939 (board aws-068, switch asg-064).
 
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Anytime kind sir!

After many decades of me wanting to own one I finally have one fine example of this marvelous receiver in the mail. Can't wait to get it hooked up and running, in the meantime I been reading everything I can find about it online. Knowledge is power right? Haha.

Nope. Sorry!!!


They are TWO DIFFERENT people.

Now, as to the SX-1010, the dimmer switch burns up with incandescent lamps, and I have never found a mechanical replacement (I've tried HARD - unusual pin spacing and other physical details that match no other switch in any pioneer unit or catalog) the best we can do is to rehabilitate the switch as much as possible, then either switch to lower current LEDS OR use the switch to control an EXTRA relay that then does the actual switching of lamp power. I have done both.

The dimmer switch can get so badly burned that the phenolic body falls apart, which then means paying through the nose for an ebay replacement from a donor sx-1010 & sx-939 (board aws-068, switch asg-064).

Thanks for the clarification on a number of points.

Why oh why two people selling obscure parts for a niche hobby choose to operate using very similar names is a mystery to me. Talk about create confusion?!

As I explained, I have gone down the LED replacement route, I await arrival of my parts.

Regarding the damage that occurs to the dimmer switch, does this happen as a result of the switch being operated, or will it happen if the switch just sits there in (say) the bright position?

Thanks.
 
increasing contact resistance causes increasing heat, which increases the contact resistance and so on.
They tried to mitigate by using 3 sets of contacts but there's no way to balance the damage path.

They START out in the under 0.02 ohm range, but power = resistance times (current squared.)

Don't blame dgwojo i.e. Dave Wojonarski.(if I have the name correct and the spelling close)
 
increasing contact resistance causes increasing heat, which increases the contact resistance and so on.
They tried to mitigate by using 3 sets of contacts but there's no way to balance the damage path.

They START out in the under 0.02 ohm range, but power = resistance times (current squared.)

Don't blame dgwojo i.e. Dave Wojonarski.(if I have the name correct and the spelling close)

Hmm. Perhaps that's the reason why (as I mentioned in my first post) my lamps don't appear to be very bright even when switched to the 'bright' setting. ie there's a voltage drop to the lamps via the switch?

Re the two lamp suppliers, I don't intend to "blame" anyone for the mix up. If those two guys are happy to operate with very similar names it's up to them, I'm afraid confusion will undoubtedly ensue - as it demonstrably has happened twice in this thread by me and zebulon1. I was unsure, and zeb said (with the best will in the world I'm sure) they were they same person. I mean, if it was me I'd simply call myself 'hifi lampman' or something. That'd do it. Wjoe and wojo are just too close for comfort in such a niche subject, people are likely to confuse with the other.
 
I always order my lamps from Dave using his email address which I don't publish in the forums.
I apologize for the bum info.
 
Update. Replacement LED bulbs have arrived and fitted. As I've said previously, I'm not normally a fan of LED bulbs, but in this instance they brighten up what was a fairly dull display previously - see first post photo. Now, the dial scale is more defined and generally more vibrant. The same applies to the two meters.


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