SX-1010 project

Discussion in 'Pioneer Audio' started by Motnick, Aug 26, 2017.

  1. Motnick

    Motnick Active Member

    Messages:
    128
    Location:
    Wyandotte Michigan
    How about the bleeder resistors? Can I reclaim the original ones? It looks like they wire wrapped the leads, and didn't leave very much to try to reuse. What have you guys done here?

    I'm trying to gather as many pieces into one order as I can.
     
  2. larryderouin

    larryderouin Do I get Food, Med's, or more gear this Month? Subscriber

    Messages:
    19,793
    Location:
    Glen Burnie Md.
    You can reclaim them. Just unwrap the leads, and solder them on the new caps, AFTER you've checked them on your meter.
     
  3. Motnick

    Motnick Active Member

    Messages:
    128
    Location:
    Wyandotte Michigan
    I have found some SX-1010 BOM lists that only show some of the power amp transistors, and other BOM lists that show them all. I was planning to just replace them all as to avoid having to go into this part of the amp more than once. Am I better off not replacing them all?
     
    Last edited: Sep 3, 2017
  4. larryderouin

    larryderouin Do I get Food, Med's, or more gear this Month? Subscriber

    Messages:
    19,793
    Location:
    Glen Burnie Md.
    More than likely yes if it's running ok. The change on bias to 25mv will cool it down drastically, not that it runs hot,except for the POWER SUPPLY. Pin layout is different on most of the TO-92 types. If it's not a 2sa725 or 726, OR the 2sc1451, I wouldn't replace it if the unit is running. If you are confident and comfortable enough, and have triple checked the layouts (remember the board layouts are from the solder side), by all means go ahead. I did replace all the amp board transistors on my 1010 (way back when) and got into trouble. I ended up blowing the drivers out due to misplacement of the pins on a lot of the TO-92 types. So I had to start from square 1. Damned near gave M.T.F. a Coronary. But with a lot of his help, got it fixed and it was finished. Sold it a couple years later to a guy in Ga.
     
  5. Motnick

    Motnick Active Member

    Messages:
    128
    Location:
    Wyandotte Michigan
    Ok. I think I will still include them in my BOM. Better to have them and not need them. Adding them shouldn't break the bank. If I need them then at least I will have them on hand.
     
  6. Motnick

    Motnick Active Member

    Messages:
    128
    Location:
    Wyandotte Michigan
    I went ahead and pulled the outputs. I marked everything before removal so that everything can be put back exactly as it was. I do not have any diodes attached to the heat sinks in my SX-1010, which is nice as I've read they can be easily damaged.

    I did the 6-way check on all eight outputs.

    Here are my results:

    Black-C/Red-E
    2SA747A: (ol) (ol) (ol) (ol)
    2SC1116A: (ol) (ol) (ol) (ol)
    **************************************************
    Black-E/Red-C
    2SA747A: (ol) (ol) (ol) (ol)
    2SC1116A: (ol) (ol) (ol) (ol)
    **************************************************
    Black-C/Red-B
    2SA747A: (ol) (ol) (ol) (ol)
    2SC1116A: (.544)(.542)(.542)(.537)
    **************************************************
    Black-B/Red-C
    2SA747A: (.532)(.529)(.530)(.532)
    2SC1116A: (ol) (ol) (ol) (ol)
    **************************************************
    Black-B/Red-E
    2SA747A: (.543)(.547)(.541)(.543)
    2SC1116A: (ol) (ol) (ol) (ol)
    **************************************************
    Black-E/Red-B
    2SA747A: (ol) (ol) (ol) (ol)
    2SC1116A: (.546)(.545)(.545)(.553)

    If I am understanding the test procedure correctly, I think that this means the outputs are in good shape in this amp? Are their any other tests that I need to perform in order to declare these as good?
     
    Last edited: Sep 5, 2017
  7. Oscar23

    Oscar23 AK Subscriber Subscriber

    Messages:
    156
    Location:
    On canada
    Don't forget to order the trimpots makes life alot easier
     
  8. zebulon1

    zebulon1 This summer heat slowed me down. Subscriber

    Messages:
    3,934
    Location:
    Las Vegas Nevada
    I think the best approach is to ramp up for a restore.
    Take it in stages.
    On yours I would shore up the amps by rebuilding the boards with new transistors, caps and trimmers. Repaste the outputs and reflow all the soldered connections.
    A good visual inspection of both sides of the amp boards is required. It sounds like a bad connection in the driver stage? Possible someone else was mucking about.
    Normally I would hit up the PS first but check the voltages per GP and if their good (or even OK) move directly to the amps.
    Like I said before: This is a difficult set to work. It has hazards. The amp boards are diffcult to access, not impossible but you have be careful not to over stretch the wire harness when removing the amp board mounts.
    You have to double check for broken wraps on the amp boards posts when reinstalling the boards and heatsinks.
    The amplifier and heatsinks are removed from the chassis as a set. Once the outputs are removed from the heatsink the HS can be cleaned and set aside. With the output sockets free you can get to the trace side of the boards.
    I use masking tape and rages to protect the top of the transformer and back plate box. The amp boards have sharp parts and pieces and will scratch the painted surfaces easily.
    I also un-mount the protection and EQ boards to gain extra access to the amps. Hold them back with rubber bands or tape.
    This type disassembly is why this set can be troublesome, lots of components are jostled about.
    You want to make sure you check everything you touched, do everything right the first time, sparing the set another entry. They can only take so many. Every time you mess around, it increases the probability of self induced damage.
     
    Last edited: Sep 3, 2017
  9. Motnick

    Motnick Active Member

    Messages:
    128
    Location:
    Wyandotte Michigan
    As bad as my power supply looks, all of the voltages were very close to the values in the service manual, even on the DBT.

    I think your right about going ahead and rebuilding the power amp boards first. I think I may do just that to see if I can get the offset and bias issues ironed out before recapping the other boards.

    Oscar- I do have some bourns trim pots on the BOM.
     
  10. Oscar23

    Oscar23 AK Subscriber Subscriber

    Messages:
    156
    Location:
    On canada
    I forgot mine another 8 bucks in shipping. And please watch those wire they break so easy I can show you a mess. I had a similar issue with my offset q9 was cooked. After doing mine all I can say is take your time.
     
  11. zebulon1

    zebulon1 This summer heat slowed me down. Subscriber

    Messages:
    3,934
    Location:
    Las Vegas Nevada
    This is the SX-1010 ultimate list:
    There will be obsolete components, although most are current, alternates are available.
    A big thanks to MTF and Mattsd!

    Muting Assembly (AWM-039-A)

    AWM-039-A: C1: .47uF 50v CEA: 505-MKS2C034701CJSSD .47uF 50v
    AWM-039-A: C2: 47uF 50v CEA: 505-MKS2C034701CJSSD 47uF 50v

    Equalizer Amp Assembly (AWF-013-0) (Q1 & Q3 and Q2 & Q4 should ideally be gain matched, this is optional though)

    AWF-013-0: C1: 2.2uF 25v CSSA: 647-UKL1H2R2KDDANA 2.2uF 50v
    AWF-013-0: C2: 2.2uF 25v CSSA: 647-UKL1H2R2KDDANA 2.2uF 50v
    AWF-013-0: C5: 470uF 6.3v CEANL: 647-UKL1C471KPD 470uF 16v
    AWF-013-0: C6: 470uF 6.3v CEANL: 647-UKL1C471KPD 470uF 16v
    AWF-013-0: C9: 100uF 6.3v CEANL: 647-UKL1E101KPDANA 100uF 25v
    AWF-013-0: C10: 100uF 6.3v CEANL: 647-UKL1E101KPDANA 100uF 25v
    AWF-013-0: C11: 10uF 10v CEANL: 647-UKL1C100MDDANA 10uF 16v
    AWF-013-0: C12: 10uF 10v CEANL: 647-UKL1C100MDDANA 10uF 16v
    AWF-013-0: C19: 100uF 25v CEANL: 647-UKL1E101KPDANA 100uF 25v
    AWF-013-0: C20: 100uF 25v CEANL: 647-UKL1E101KPDANA 100uF 25v
    AWF-013-0: C21: 220uF 16v CEANL: 647-UKL1C221KPDANA 220uF 16v

    Q1: 2SA725: 512-KSA992FBU
    Q2: 2SA725: 512-KSA992FBU
    Q3: 2SA725: 512-KSA992FBU
    Q4: 2SA725: 512-KSA992FBU
    Q5: 2SC1313: 512-KSC1845FTA
    Q6: 2SC1313: 512-KSC1845FTA
    Q7: 2SC1313: 512-KSC1845FTA
    Q8: 2SC1313: 512-KSC1845FTA

    Control Amp Assembly (AWG-027-0) (Check C49-52, the A version of this board has them as 100uF 16v CEA instead of 47uF 16v CEA like the manual states)

    AWG-027-0: C1: .33uF 25v: CSSA: 505-MKS20.33/63/5 .33uF 63v
    AWG-027-0: C2: .33uF 25v: CSSA: 505-MKS20.33/63/5 .33uF 63v
    AWG-027-0: C7: 100uF 10v CEA: 667-EEU-FM1E101 100uF 25v
    AWG-027-0: C8: 100uF 10v CEA: 667-EEU-FM1E101 100uF 25v
    AWG-027-0: C13: 2.2uF 25v CSSA: 647-UKL1H2R2KDDANA 2.2uF 50v
    AWG-027-0: C14: 2.2uF 25v CSSA: 647-UKL1H2R2KDDANA 2.2uF 50v
    AWG-027-0: C15: 4.7uF 50v CEA: 667-EEU-FC1H4R7 4.7uF 50v
    AWG-027-0: C16: 4.7uF 50v CEA: 667-EEU-FC1H4R7 4.7uF 50v
    AWG-027-0: C23: 4.7uF 25v CEANL: 647-UKL1H4R7KDDANA 4.7uF 50v
    AWG-027-0: C24: 4.7uF 25v CEANL: 647-UKL1H4R7KDDANA 4.7uF 50v
    AWG-027-0: C25: 10uF 16v CEA: 667-EEU-FC1H100L 10uF 50v
    AWG-027-0: C26: 10uF 16v CEA: 667-EEU-FC1H100L 10uF 50v
    AWG-027-0: C29: 100uF 10v CEA: 667-EEU-FM1E101 100uF 25v
    AWG-027-0: C30: 100uF 10v CEA: 667-EEU-FM1E101 100uF 25v
    AWG-027-0: C31: 4.7uF 50v CEA: 667-EEU-FC1H4R7 4.7uF 50v
    AWG-027-0: C32: 4.7uF 50v CEA: 667-EEU-FC1H4R7 4.7uF 50v
    AWG-027-0: C39: 4.7uF 25v CEANL: 647-UKL1H4R7KDDANA 4.7uF 50v
    AWG-027-0: C40: 4.7uF 25v CEANL: 647-UKL1H4R7KDDANA 4.7uF 50v
    AWG-027-0: C41: 10uF 16v CEA: 667-EEU-FC1H100L 10uF 50v
    AWG-027-0: C42: 10uF 16v CEA: 667-EEU-FC1H100L 10uF 50v
    AWG-027-0: C45: 100uF 10v CEA: 667-EEU-FM1E101 100uF 25v
    AWG-027-0: C46: 100uF 10v CEA: 667-EEU-FM1E101 100uF 25v
    AWG-027-0: C47: 2.2uF 25v CSSA: 647-UKL1H2R2KDDANA 2.2uF 50v
    AWG-027-0: C48: 2.2uF 25v CSSA: 647-UKL1H2R2KDDANA 2.2uF 50v
    AWG-027-0: C49: 47uF 16v CEA or 100uF 16v CEA: 667-EEU-FM1E101 100uF 25v or 667-EEU-FM1E470 47uF 25v
    AWG-027-0: C50: 47uF 16v CEA or 100uF 16v CEA: 667-EEU-FM1E101 100uF 25v or 667-EEU-FM1E470 47uF 25v
    AWG-027-0: C51: 47uF 16v CEA or 100uF 16v CEA: 667-EEU-FM1E101 100uF 25v or 667-EEU-FM1E470 47uF 25v
    AWG-027-0: C52: 47uF 16v CEA or 100uF 16v CEA: 667-EEU-FM1E101 100uF 25v or 667-EEU-FM1E470 47uF 25v

    Q1: 2SA725: 512-KSA992FBU
    Q2: 2SA725: 512-KSA992FBU
    Q3: 2SC1313: 512-KSC1845FTA
    Q4: 2SC1313: 512-KSC1845FTA
    Q5: 2SC1313: 512-KSC1845FTA
    Q6: 2SC1313: 512-KSC1845FTA
    Q7: 2SC1313: 512-KSC1845FTA
    Q8: 2SC1313: 512-KSC1845FTA

    Power Amp Assembly (AWH-032-0) (Times two) (Check board number, the D version does not have the 1.5uF cap.) (Q1 and Q2 should ideally be gain matched, this is optional though)

    AWH-032-0: C1: .68uF 25v CSSA: 505-MKS20.68/63/5 .68uF 50v
    AWH-032-0: C2: 1.5uF 25v CSSA: 647-UKL1H1R5MDD1TA 1.5uF 50v (CHECK FOR THIS BEFORE ORDERING!!)
    AWH-032-0: C4: 10uF 16v CEA: 647-UPW1E100MDD 10uF 25v
    AWH-032-0: C8: 330uF 6.3v CEA: 647-UPW1A331MPD 330uF 10v


    awh-032 C1 0.68 25 cssa 505-MKS2.68/50/10
    awh-032 C2 1.5 25 cssa 647-UKL1H1R5MDD1TA
    awh-032 C4 10 16 cea 647-UPW1E100MDD
    awh-032 C8 330 6.3 cea 647-UPW1A331MPD

    awh-032 Q1 2SA726 512-KSA992FBU
    awh-032 Q2 2SA726 512-KSA992FBU
    awh-032 Q3 2SA726 512-KSA992FBU
    awh-032 q4 2sb528 ksa1220 / ksa1381
    awh-032 Q5 2SC1451 512-KSC3503DSTU / KSC2690?
    awh-032 Q6 2SC1451 512-KSC3503DSTU
    awh-032 q7 2sd358 ksc2690
    awh-032 q8 2sb528 ksa1220
    awh-032 q9 2sc1448 ksc2073
    awh-032 q10 2sa740 ksa940
    awh-032 q11 2sc945 512-KSC1845FTA
    awh-032 q12 2sa733 512-KSA992FBU

    awh-032 D1 1S2473 512-IN4148
    awh-032 D2 1S2473 512-IN4148
    awh-032 D3 1S2472 512-UF4004
    awh-032 D4 1S2472 512-UF4004
    awh-032 D5 STV-3H X
    awh-032 D6 STV-3H X
    awh-032 D7 1S1885 512-UF4004
    awh-032 D8 1S1885 512-UF4004

    awh-032 VR1 2.2K multi T 652-3296P-1-202LF
    awh-032 VR2 470 ohms 1T 652-3386H-1-501LF

    VR1: 2.2K ohm multi offset: 652-3296P-1-202LF 2K ohm 25 turn
    VR2: 470 ohm single bias: 652-3386H-1-501LF 500 ohm single turn

    Protection Assembly (AWM-062-0)

    AWM-062-0: C1: .22uF 10v CSSA: 505-MKS20.22/63/5 .22uF 63v
    AWM-062-0: C2: .22uF 10v CSSA: 505-MKS20.22/63/5 .22uF 63v
    AWM-062-0: C3: 330uF 6.3v CEA: 647-UPW1A331MPD 330uF 10v
    AWM-062-0: C4: 330uF 6.3v CEA: 647-UPW1A331MPD 330uF 10v
    AWM-062-0: C5: 4.7uF 25v CEA: 647-UPW1V4R7MDD 4.7uF 35v
    AWM-062-0: C6: 100uF 16v CEA: 647-UPW1E101MED 100uF 25v

    Q1: 2SC869: 512-KSC1845FTA
    Q2: 2SC869: 512-KSC1845FTA
    Q6: 2SC945: 512-KSC2383YTA
    Q7: 2SC1384: 512-KSC2690AYS
    1N4004 flyback diode is added between pins 9 (anode +) and 10 (cathode -)

    Power Supply Assembly (AWR-054-0) (Resistors are optional but recommended, stand them up off the board about a half inch when mounting the new ones)

    AWR-054: C8: 470uF 80v CEA: 647-UPW2A471MHD 470uF 100v
    AWR-054: C9: 470uF 80v CEA: 647-UPW2A471MHD 470uF 100v
    AWR-054: C10: 100uF 63v CEA: 647-UPW2A101MHD 100uF 100v
    AWR-054: C11: 100uF 63v CEA: 647-UPW2A101MHD 100uF 100v
    AWR-054: C12: 100uF 35v CEA: 647-UPW1H101MPD 100uF 50v
    AWR-054: C13: 100uF 35v CEA: 647-UPW1H101MPD 100uF 50v
    AWR-054: C14: 47uF 50v CEA: 647-UPW1J470MPD 47uF 63v
    AWR-054: C18: 1000uF 35v CEA: 647-UPW1H102MHD 1000uF 50v
    AWR-054: C19: 220uF 16v CEA: 647-UPW1V221MPD6 220uF 35v
    AWR-054: C20: 2200uF 10v CEA: 647-UPW1C222MHD 2200uF 16v
    AWR-054: C21: 2200uF 10v CEA: 647-UPW1C222MHD 2200uF 16v

    AWR-054: R11: 10 Ohm 1/4 watt: 660-MFS1/2DCT52R10R0 10 Ohm 1/2 watt
    AWR-054: R12: 10 Ohm 1/4 watt: 660-MFS1/2DCT52R10R0 10 Ohm 1/2 watt
    AWR-054: R20: 3.3 Ohm 1/4 watt: 660-MF1/2DCT52R3R32F 3.32 Ohm 1/2 watt
    AWR-054: R21: 10 Ohm 1/4 watt: 660-MFS1/2DCT52R10R0 10 Ohm 1/2 watt

    AWR-054: Q1: 2SD313: 863-MJE15032G
    AWR-054: Q2: 2SC869: 512-KSC2383YBU
    AWR-054: Q3: 2SC869: 512-KSC2383YBU
    AWR-054: Q4: 2SB507: 863-MJE15033G
    AWR-054: Q5: 2SA628A: 512-KSA1013YBU
    AWR-054: Q6: 2SA628A: 512-KSA1013YBU
    AWR-054: Q7: 2SD313: 863-MJE15032G
    AWR-054: Q8: 2SC1384: 512-KSC2690AYS

    Main filter caps, 18000uF 63v, 50mm dia x 90mm high:

    (Digi-Key) 565-3331-ND, 18000uF 75v screw terminal 50.80mm dia x 79.38mm high

    BOM List (with 4 100uF 25v caps for the tone amp, does not include the filter caps or the 1.5uF cap, add if needed)

    505-MKS2C034701CJSSD | 1
    647-UPW1H470MED | 1
    647-UPW2A471MHD | 2
    647-UPW1H102MHD | 1
    647-UPW1V221MPD6 | 1
    647-UPW1C222MHD | 2
    647-UPW1E101MED | 1
    647-UPW1V4R7MDD | 1
    647-UPW1A331MPD | 4
    505-MKS20.22/63/5 | 2
    647-UPW1E100MDD | 2
    505-MKS20.68/63/5 | 2
    647-UKL1H2R2KDDANA | 6
    647-UKL1C471KPD | 2
    647-UKL1E101KPDANA | 4
    647-UKL1C221KPDANA | 1
    647-UKL1C100MDDANA | 2
    505-MKS20.33/63/5 | 2
    647-UKL1H4R7KDDANA | 4
    647-UPW2A101MHD | 2
    647-UPW1J470MPD | 1
    647-UPW1H101MPD | 2
    667-EEU-FC1H4R7 | 4
    667-EEU-FC1H100L | 4
    667-EEU-FM1E101 | 10
    512-KSC1845FTA | 12
    512-KSA992FBU | 12
    512-KSC3503DSTU | 4
    512-KSA1220AYS | 4
    512-KSC2690AYS | 4
    512-KSA1013YBU | 2
    512-KSC2383YTA | 3
    863-MJE15032G | 2
    863-MJE15033G | 1
    660-MFS1/2DCT52R10R0 | 3
    660-MF1/2DCT52R3R32F | 1
    652-3296P-1-202LF | 2
    652-3386H-1-501LF | 2
     
  12. Motnick

    Motnick Active Member

    Messages:
    128
    Location:
    Wyandotte Michigan
    Here is what I have come up with. It looks like Mouser has everything available right now.


    Muting Assembly (AWM-039-A)

    AWM-039-A: C1: .47uF 50v CEA: 505-MKS2C034701CJSSD .47uF 63v
    AWM-039-A: C2: 47uF 50v CEA: 647-UPW1H470MED 47uF 50v

    Equalizer Amp Assembly (AWF-013-0) (Q1 & Q3 and Q2 & Q4 should ideally be gain matched, this is optional though)

    AWF-013-0: C1: 2.2uF 25v CSSA: 647-UKL1H2R2KDDANA 2.2uF 50v
    AWF-013-0: C2: 2.2uF 25v CSSA: 647-UKL1H2R2KDDANA 2.2uF 50v
    AWF-013-0: C5: 470uF 6.3v CEANL: 647-UKL1C471KPD 470uF 16v
    AWF-013-0: C6: 470uF 6.3v CEANL: 647-UKL1C471KPD 470uF 16v
    AWF-013-0: C9: 100uF 6.3v CEANL: 647-UKL1E101KPDANA 100uF 25v
    AWF-013-0: C10: 100uF 6.3v CEANL: 647-UKL1E101KPDANA 100uF 25v
    AWF-013-0: C11: 10uF 10v CEANL: 647-UKL1C100MDDANA 10uF 16v
    AWF-013-0: C12: 10uF 10v CEANL: 647-UKL1C100MDDANA 10uF 16v
    AWF-013-0: C19: 100uF 25v CEANL: 647-UKL1E101KPDANA 100uF 25v
    AWF-013-0: C20: 100uF 25v CEANL: 647-UKL1E101KPDANA 100uF 25v
    AWF-013-0: C21: 220uF 16v CEANL: 647-UKL1C221KPDANA 220uF 16v

    Q1: 2SA725: 512-KSA992FBU
    Q2: 2SA725: 512-KSA992FBU
    Q3: 2SA725: 512-KSA992FBU
    Q4: 2SA725: 512-KSA992FBU
    Q5: 2SC1313: 512-KSC1845FTA
    Q6: 2SC1313: 512-KSC1845FTA
    Q7: 2SC1313: 512-KSC1845FTA
    Q8: 2SC1313: 512-KSC1845FTA

    Control Amp Assembly (AWG-027-0) (Check C49-52, the A version of this board has them as 100uF 16v CEA instead of 47uF 16v CEA like the manual states)

    AWG-027-0: C1: .33uF 25v: CSSA: 505-MKS20.33/63/5 .33uF 63v
    AWG-027-0: C2: .33uF 25v: CSSA: 505-MKS20.33/63/5 .33uF 63v
    AWG-027-0: C7: 100uF 10v CEA: 667-EEU-FM1E101 100uF 25v
    AWG-027-0: C8: 100uF 10v CEA: 667-EEU-FM1E101 100uF 25v
    AWG-027-0: C13: 2.2uF 25v CSSA: 647-UKL1H2R2KDDANA 2.2uF 50v
    AWG-027-0: C14: 2.2uF 25v CSSA: 647-UKL1H2R2KDDANA 2.2uF 50v
    AWG-027-0: C15: 4.7uF 50v CEA: 667-EEU-FC1H4R7 4.7uF 50v
    AWG-027-0: C16: 4.7uF 50v CEA: 667-EEU-FC1H4R7 4.7uF 50v
    AWG-027-0: C23: 4.7uF 25v CEANL: 647-UKL1H4R7KDDANA 4.7uF 50v
    AWG-027-0: C24: 4.7uF 25v CEANL: 647-UKL1H4R7KDDANA 4.7uF 50v
    AWG-027-0: C25: 10uF 16v CEA: 667-EEU-FC1H100L 10uF 50v
    AWG-027-0: C26: 10uF 16v CEA: 667-EEU-FC1H100L 10uF 50v
    AWG-027-0: C29: 100uF 10v CEA: 667-EEU-FM1E101 100uF 25v
    AWG-027-0: C30: 100uF 10v CEA: 667-EEU-FM1E101 100uF 25v
    AWG-027-0: C31: 4.7uF 50v CEA: 667-EEU-FC1H4R7 4.7uF 50v
    AWG-027-0: C32: 4.7uF 50v CEA: 667-EEU-FC1H4R7 4.7uF 50v
    AWG-027-0: C39: 4.7uF 25v CEANL: 647-UKL1H4R7KDDANA 4.7uF 50v
    AWG-027-0: C40: 4.7uF 25v CEANL: 647-UKL1H4R7KDDANA 4.7uF 50v
    AWG-027-0: C41: 10uF 16v CEA: 667-EEU-FC1H100L 10uF 50v
    AWG-027-0: C42: 10uF 16v CEA: 667-EEU-FC1H100L 10uF 50v
    AWG-027-0: C45: 100uF 10v CEA: 667-EEU-FM1E101 100uF 25v
    AWG-027-0: C46: 100uF 10v CEA: 667-EEU-FM1E101 100uF 25v
    AWG-027-0: C47: 2.2uF 25v CSSA: 647-UKL1H2R2KDDANA 2.2uF 50v
    AWG-027-0: C48: 2.2uF 25v CSSA: 647-UKL1H2R2KDDANA 2.2uF 50v
    AWG-027-0: C49: 47uF 16v CEA or 100uF 16v CEA: 667-EEU-FM1E101 100uF 25v or 667-EEU-FM1E470 47uF 25v
    AWG-027-0: C50: 47uF 16v CEA or 100uF 16v CEA: 667-EEU-FM1E101 100uF 25v or 667-EEU-FM1E470 47uF 25v
    AWG-027-0: C51: 47uF 16v CEA or 100uF 16v CEA: 667-EEU-FM1E101 100uF 25v or 667-EEU-FM1E470 47uF 25v
    AWG-027-0: C52: 47uF 16v CEA or 100uF 16v CEA: 667-EEU-FM1E101 100uF 25v or 667-EEU-FM1E470 47uF 25v

    Q1: 2SA725: 512-KSA992FBU
    Q2: 2SA725: 512-KSA992FBU
    Q3: 2SC1313: 512-KSC1845FTA
    Q4: 2SC1313: 512-KSC1845FTA
    Q5: 2SC1313: 512-KSC1845FTA
    Q6: 2SC1313: 512-KSC1845FTA
    Q7: 2SC1313: 512-KSC1845FTA
    Q8: 2SC1313: 512-KSC1845FTA

    Power Amp Assembly (AWH-032-0) (Times two) (Check board number, the D version does not have the 1.5uF cap.) (Q1 and Q2 should ideally be gain matched, this is optional though)

    AWH-032-0: C1: .68uF 25v CSSA: 505-MKS20.68/63/5 .68uF 63v
    AWH-032-0: C2: 1.5uF 25v CSSA: 647-UKL1H1R5MDD1TA 1.5uF 50v (CHECK FOR THIS BEFORE ORDERING!!)
    AWH-032-0: C4: 10uF 16v CEA: 647-UPW1E100MDD 10uF 25v
    AWH-032-0: C8: 330uF 6.3v CEA: 647-UPW1A331MPD1TD 330uF 10v

    Q1: 2SA726: 512-KSA992FBU
    Q2: 2SA726: 512-KSA992FBU
    Q3: 2SA726: 512-KSA992FBU
    Q4: 2SB528: 512-KSA1220AYS *optional, or replaced only if bad.
    Q5: 2SC1451: 512-KSC3503DSTU
    Q6: 2SC1451: 512-KSC3503DSTU
    Q7: 2SD358: 512-KSC2690AYS *optional, or replaced only if bad.
    Q8: 2SB528: 512-KSA1220AYS *optional, or replaced only if bad.
    Q9: 2SC1448: 512-KSC2073TU *optional, or replaced only if bad.
    Q10: 2SA740: 512-KSA940TU *optional, or replaced only if bad.
    Q11: 2SC945: 512-KSC1845FTA *optional, or replaced only if bad.
    Q12: 2SA733: 512-KSA992FBU *optional, or replaced only if bad.

    Transistor Mica: (4 needed): 534-4673

    D1: 1S2473: 512-1N4148
    D2: 1S2473: 512-1N4148
    D3: 1S2472: 512-UF4004
    D4: 1S2472: 512-UF4004
    D7: 1S1885: 512-UF4004
    D8: 1S1885: 512-UF4004

    VR1: 2.2K ohm multi offset: 652-3296P-1-202LF 2K ohm 25 turn
    VR2: 470 ohm single bias: 652-3386H-1-501LF 500 ohm single turn

    Protection Assembly (AWM-062-0)

    AWM-062-0: C1: .22uF 10v CSSA: 505-MKS20.22/63/5 .22uF 63v
    AWM-062-0: C2: .22uF 10v CSSA: 505-MKS20.22/63/5 .22uF 63v
    AWM-062-0: C3: 330uF 6.3v CEA: 647-UPW1A331MPD1TD 330uF 10v
    AWM-062-0: C4: 330uF 6.3v CEA: 647-UPW1A331MPD1TD 330uF 10v
    AWM-062-0: C5: 4.7uF 25v CEA: 647-UPW1V4R7MDD 4.7uF 35v
    AWM-062-0: C6: 100uF 16v CEA: 647-UPW1E101MED 100uF 25v

    Q1: 2SC869: 512-KSC1845FTA
    Q2: 2SC869: 512-KSC1845FTA
    Q6: 2SC945: 512-KSC2383YTA
    Q7: 2SC1384: 512-KSC2690AYS

    1N4004 flyback diode is added between pins 9 (anode +) and 10 (cathode -): 821-1N4004

    Protection Relay: 653-LY2F-DC24

    Power Supply Assembly (AWR-054-0) (Stand the new resistors up off the board about a half inch)

    AWR-054-0: C8: 470uF 80v CEA: 647-UPW2A471MHD 470uF 100v
    AWR-054-0: C9: 470uF 80v CEA: 647-UPW2A471MHD 470uF 100v
    AWR-054-0: C10: 100uF 63v CEA: 647-UPW2A101MHD 100uF 100v
    AWR-054-0: C11: 100uF 63v CEA: 647-UPW2A101MHD 100uF 100v
    AWR-054-0: C12: 100uF 35v CEA: 647-UPW1H101MPD 100uF 50v
    AWR-054-0: C13: 100uF 35v CEA: 647-UPW1H101MPD 100uF 50v
    AWR-054-0: C14: 47uF 50v CEA: 647-UPW1J470MPD 47uF 63v
    AWR-054-0: C18: 1000uF 35v CEA: 647-UPW1H102MHD 1000uF 50v
    AWR-054-0: C19: 220uF 16v CEA: 647-UPW1V221MPD6 220uF 35v
    AWR-054-0: C20: 2200uF 10v CEA: 647-UPW1C222MHD 2200uF 16v
    AWR-054-0: C21: 2200uF 10v CEA: 647-UPW1C222MHD 2200uF 16v


    R2: 3.3k Ohm ¼ watt: 660-MF1/4DC3301F 3.3k Ohm ¼ watt
    R10: 8.2k Ohm ¼ watt: 660-MF1/4DC8201F 8.2k Ohm ¼ watt
    R11: 10 Ohm 1/4 watt: 660-MFS1/2DCT52R10R0 10 Ohm 1/2 watt
    R12: 10 Ohm 1/4 watt: 660-MFS1/2DCT52R10R0 10 Ohm 1/2 watt
    R20: 3.3 Ohm 1/4 watt: 660-MF1/2DCT52R3R32F 3.32 Ohm 1/2 watt
    R21: 10 Ohm 1/4 watt: 660-MFS1/2DCT52R10R0 10 Ohm 1/2 watt

    Q1: 2SD313: 863-MJE15032G
    Q2: 2SC869: 512-KSC2383YTA
    Q3: 2SC869: 512-KSC2383YTA
    Q4: 2SB507: 863-MJE15033G
    Q5: 2SA628A: 512-KSA1013YBU
    Q6: 2SA628A: 512-KSA1013YBU
    Q7: 2SD313: 863-MJE15032G
    Q8: 2SC1384: 512-KSC2690AYS

    Transistor Mica: (3 needed): 534-4673

    D1: S1B01-04: 512-UF4004
    D2: S1B01-04: 512-UF4004
    D3: S1B01-04: 512-UF4004
    D4: S1B01-04: 512-UF4004
    D5: 1S1885: 512-UF4004
    D6: 1S1885: 512-UF4004
    D7: 1S1885: 512-UF4004
    D8: WZ-320: 512-1N5257B
    D9: WZ-320: 512-1N5257B
    D10: WZ-140: 512-1N5244B

    Main filter caps, 18000uF 63v, 50mm dia x 90mm high:
    661-E36D750N183TC79M, 18000uF 75v screw terminal 50.80mm dia x 79.38mm high

    Output Transistors: only replaced if bad.

    2SC1116A: 863-MJ21194G
    2SA747A: 863-MJ21193G

    Output transistor Mica: (8 needed): 534-4662
     
    Last edited: Sep 11, 2017
  13. Motnick

    Motnick Active Member

    Messages:
    128
    Location:
    Wyandotte Michigan
    After looking over the power supply board closer, I think that I should add two more resistors to my BOM list. These two resistors look like they have experienced some thermal stress to me.

    I think they are R2 (3.3k) and R10 (8.2k). Can someone please suggest some part numbers that I can use to replace these with?

    [​IMG]

    Also D7 and D9 both show continuity in both directions when checking with the diode tester (continuous beep) on my meter. Not sure if this is because the diodes are still soldered into the circuit, or if this means that the diodes are bad?
     
    Last edited: Sep 3, 2017
  14. zebulon1

    zebulon1 This summer heat slowed me down. Subscriber

    Messages:
    3,934
    Location:
    Las Vegas Nevada
    I thought you checked the voltages?
    Regardless, for D7 order 10 or more 512-IN4148 (Diodes - General Purpose)
    D9 is a 32v zener, 771-BZX79-C30133.
    I might prefer the Fairchilds.
    Or two Fairchild, 16v zeners in series. Mouser does not have the Fairchilds in 32v's.
    R2 660-MF1/4DC3301F
    R10 660-MF1/4DC8201F
     
    Last edited: Sep 3, 2017
  15. john stumpf

    john stumpf AK Subscriber Subscriber

    Messages:
    361
    Location:
    philippines
    as far as cleaning goes ive used dawn d/w liquid with a rinse of distilled water and a sun bath even mr muscle [my 828 looked like it had a rum and coke spilled in it] sometimes water based solutions,figuratively and literal;y, are best. but i do worry about corrosion from any residuals. ive used mineral spirits and even lacquer thinner used judiciously i find solvent solutions work well on nick-o'teen my favorite irishman's goo. as far as working on it. it was a bit challenging but certainly not a traumatic experience. you will like the thing. im listening to mine as week speak. lots of 725's and 726's i believe which are changed as they are known bad actors just follow the latest list and you will be fine. BUT, you will want to check the lists against whats actually there. pioneer made changes and it just depends whats in there. it can be quite aggravating to be short of the right caps and its happened to me in my 1010. all the transistors? well thats a point of contention in some quarters.certainly the "BAD ACTORS" but i was reading on a uk forum that silica is a different sound, and to some ears inferior to GERMANIUM outputs. i dunno,mine still has its originals im not sure what they are,but i thought it was worth mentioning. do the led conversion it saves the dim switch. mine works and plays very well. if i can do it so can you!
     
  16. Motnick

    Motnick Active Member

    Messages:
    128
    Location:
    Wyandotte Michigan
    I did check the PS voltages before I removed the output transistors and they all matched up with the voltages listed on the schematic in the service manual. The schematic doesn't list a voltage for every pin though. Perhaps I overlooked some voltages?

    Does checking the diodes in the circuit like I've done prove that they are bad? Or do I need to remove them from the circuit and check them again to confirm?
     
  17. Oscar23

    Oscar23 AK Subscriber Subscriber

    Messages:
    156
    Location:
    On canada
    For the price of diodes if I have to pull them I just replace them. Supposed to be tested out of circuit but every one that's failed in circuit failed out to.
     
  18. Oscar23

    Oscar23 AK Subscriber Subscriber

    Messages:
    156
    Location:
    On canada
    I used 1N5257B to replace q9 33v Fairchild
     
  19. Motnick

    Motnick Active Member

    Messages:
    128
    Location:
    Wyandotte Michigan
    Thanks for the part numbers guys. I will incorporate them into my BOM.

    One question to help me learn more about picking diodes...

    I noticed that the same diode part (D7) 1S1885 from the power supply is also used on the power amp board (D7 & D8). The listed replacement for 1S1885 on the power amp board is 512-UF4004. Is their a reason for choosing 512-UF4004 as the replacement for the power amp diode, and 512-1N4148 as the replacement for the power supply diode? Or are 512-UF4004 and 512-1N4148 interchangeable?
     
  20. zebulon1

    zebulon1 This summer heat slowed me down. Subscriber

    Messages:
    3,934
    Location:
    Las Vegas Nevada
    Your right the 512-UF4004 is a much better choice for the 1S1885.
    Not sure what I was thinking. Good catch.
    I'm in fact putting a 1010 order together for a set I plan to restore this fall.
    The UF4004 can handle over twice the current.
     
    Last edited: Sep 4, 2017

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