I have been reading all the SX-1010 rebuild threads as I am going to rebuild mine. I have a good looking on the outside but not the inside 1010. It works but has a hum and noise coming from both sides. Doesn't matter how the switch's or balance are placed. Its equal both sides and gets louder with volume. It has been in a smoking environment in the past and has been worked on a few times by the looks of things. Its going to be a "driver" not a museum piece so functionality is what I want. I want to put LED lights in it and rebuild it to as good or better condition than factory. The LED's are on order from a local supplier and I am putting together a BOM with Mouser. I copied and exported the BOM listed from JunFuns rebuild thread. There are three items that are obsolete or have changed. The flyback diode 1N4004 Cap ECQ-V1H334JL and transistor KSC2690AYS. Any assistance or advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
SX-1010 Rebuild BOM help
- Thread starter 5yearplan
- Start date
Zebulon1 is one of the guys here who does mainly 1010's. Get his list. It's going to be the latest and greatest update of one of Mark the Fixer's many many BOM's here.
Any of the 1n400x family diodes will work for a flyback. just type 1n4004 in the search box on mouser type in 512-1n4004 Get them while they are hot. scheduled for obsolescense. over 1/2 million in stock.
repl the ECQ with a WIMA. http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/WIMA/MKS2C033301C00KSSD/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMv1cc3ydrPrFwgzP98AO9idCjowadtYUgE=
ksc2690ays IT's a ZERO not an OH common mistake among those new to transistors. Download the datasheet for this and all other transistors for leg pinout as most will be different from the originals http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Fairchild-Semiconductor/KSC2690AYS/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMshyDBzk1/Wi8oN7VHZ91OkPdp4Tc8ksXs= almost 7000 in stock
Not knowing your level of working knowledge, I will add this caveat! If you are NOT familiar with overhauling receivers the SX-1010 IS NOT a recommended unit to learn on. It's very complicated, and there are some old 2010-2011 threads that go on seemingly forever where a new guy got in over his head and even Mark the Fixer was pulling what's left of his hair out trying to get the guy to do exactly what he was instructed to do. Seriously, contact one of the tech's here on AK and get some estimates on rebuilding it. It'll be a fair amount, but you'll have a unit that is as good or better than new and has all the latest updates.
Zebulon1, MattSD, and others have done numerous 1010's and are intimately familiar with them. If you want the best out there you'll WAIT as their backlogs go as high as 2-3 years. The 1010 isn't a fix in a weekend. Mine took me a month of working on it everyday (I'm retired), but with some help from Mark the Fixer and a few others got it right. By that time I had done a 1/2 dozen smaller/cheaper units to get the knack of it. The biggest thing is GO SLOW and METHODICAL! Rushing will cause all kinds of problems. So if you feel it's above your paygrade, farm it out.
Any of the 1n400x family diodes will work for a flyback. just type 1n4004 in the search box on mouser type in 512-1n4004 Get them while they are hot. scheduled for obsolescense. over 1/2 million in stock.
repl the ECQ with a WIMA. http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/WIMA/MKS2C033301C00KSSD/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMv1cc3ydrPrFwgzP98AO9idCjowadtYUgE=
ksc2690ays IT's a ZERO not an OH common mistake among those new to transistors. Download the datasheet for this and all other transistors for leg pinout as most will be different from the originals http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Fairchild-Semiconductor/KSC2690AYS/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMshyDBzk1/Wi8oN7VHZ91OkPdp4Tc8ksXs= almost 7000 in stock
Not knowing your level of working knowledge, I will add this caveat! If you are NOT familiar with overhauling receivers the SX-1010 IS NOT a recommended unit to learn on. It's very complicated, and there are some old 2010-2011 threads that go on seemingly forever where a new guy got in over his head and even Mark the Fixer was pulling what's left of his hair out trying to get the guy to do exactly what he was instructed to do. Seriously, contact one of the tech's here on AK and get some estimates on rebuilding it. It'll be a fair amount, but you'll have a unit that is as good or better than new and has all the latest updates.
Zebulon1, MattSD, and others have done numerous 1010's and are intimately familiar with them. If you want the best out there you'll WAIT as their backlogs go as high as 2-3 years. The 1010 isn't a fix in a weekend. Mine took me a month of working on it everyday (I'm retired), but with some help from Mark the Fixer and a few others got it right. By that time I had done a 1/2 dozen smaller/cheaper units to get the knack of it. The biggest thing is GO SLOW and METHODICAL! Rushing will cause all kinds of problems. So if you feel it's above your paygrade, farm it out.
I kind of figured that about the diode I found some locally about five minutes after I posted. As for my experience I am an Industrial Electrician so some experience mostly "swaptronics" LOL I plan on going slow one board at a time and test as suggested by others. If I get in over my head there is local repair shops that I can go to if I have to. Im lucky that I am starting with a working unit. If it was dead It would be a bigger challenge. I will be building a DBT and I already have a 0-120 auto transformer power supply. In previous job of 27 years there was Instrument technicians that came from the military with lots of electronics experience. I wish I started this hobby while working with them. Most of them are dead or have retired somewhere warm so Im on my own. Well not on my own as I have you guys I guess! Thanks for the quick reply.
Before you place any orders take a few images of the PS and Driver boards.
Lets see where it falls in the sx-1010 lineage.
Pioneer SX-1010 recap list
This is "mattsd" list that I use:
Thank you Matt and MTF
Notes:
This list has the 5 %, 63v, WIMA films listed/incorporated, ECQ's are no longer available.
Some E-caps my require a voltage increase up if unavailable.
The cap height on the PS is most critical as the head room between the bottom cover is at issue.
Muting Assembly (AWM-039-A)
AWM-039-A: C1: .47uF 50v CEA: 505-MKS2C034701CJSSD .47uF 50v
AWM-039-A: C2: 47uF 50v CEA: 647-UPW1H470MED 47uF 50v
Equalizer Amp Assembly (AWF-013-0) (Q1 & Q3 and Q2 & Q4 should ideally be gain matched, this is optional though)
AWF-013-0: C1: 2.2uF 25v CSSA: 647-UKL1H2R2KDDANA 2.2uF 50v
AWF-013-0: C2: 2.2uF 25v CSSA: 647-UKL1H2R2KDDANA 2.2uF 50v
AWF-013-0: C5: 470uF 6.3v CEANL: 647-UKL1C471KPD 470uF 16v
AWF-013-0: C6: 470uF 6.3v CEANL: 647-UKL1C471KPD 470uF 16v
AWF-013-0: C9: 100uF 6.3v CEANL: 647-UKL1E101KPDANA 100uF 25v
AWF-013-0: C10: 100uF 6.3v CEANL: 647-UKL1E101KPDANA 100uF 25v
AWF-013-0: C11: 10uF 10v CEANL: 647-UKL1C100MDDANA 10uF 16v
AWF-013-0: C12: 10uF 10v CEANL: 647-UKL1C100MDDANA 10uF 16v
AWF-013-0: C19: 100uF 25v CEANL: 647-UKL1E101KPDANA 100uF 25v
AWF-013-0: C20: 100uF 25v CEANL: 647-UKL1E101KPDANA 100uF 25v
AWF-013-0: C21: 220uF 16v CEANL: 647-UKL1C221KPDANA 220uF 16v
Q1: 2SA725: 512-KSA992FBU
Q2: 2SA725: 512-KSA992FBU
Q3: 2SA725: 512-KSA992FBU
Q4: 2SA725: 512-KSA992FBU
Q5: 2SC1313: 512-KSC1845FTA
Q6: 2SC1313: 512-KSC1845FTA
Q7: 2SC1313: 512-KSC1845FTA
Q8: 2SC1313: 512-KSC1845FTA
Control Amp Assembly (AWG-027-0) (Check C49-52, the A version of this board has them as 100uF 16v CEA instead of 47uF 16v CEA like the manual states)
AWG-027-0: C1: .33uF 25v: CSSA: 505-MKS20.33/63/5 .33uF 63v
AWG-027-0: C2: .33uF 25v: CSSA: 505-MKS20.33/63/5 .33uF 63v
AWG-027-0: C7: 100uF 10v CEA: 667-EEU-FM1E101 100uF 25v
AWG-027-0: C8: 100uF 10v CEA: 667-EEU-FM1E101 100uF 25v
AWG-027-0: C13: 2.2uF 25v CSSA: 647-UKL1H2R2KDDANA 2.2uF 50v
AWG-027-0: C14: 2.2uF 25v CSSA: 647-UKL1H2R2KDDANA 2.2uF 50v
AWG-027-0: C15: 4.7uF 50v CEA: 667-EEU-FC1H4R7 4.7uF 50v
AWG-027-0: C16: 4.7uF 50v CEA: 667-EEU-FC1H4R7 4.7uF 50v
AWG-027-0: C23: 4.7uF 25v CEANL: 647-UKL1H4R7KDDANA 4.7uF 50v
AWG-027-0: C24: 4.7uF 25v CEANL: 647-UKL1H4R7KDDANA 4.7uF 50v
AWG-027-0: C25: 10uF 16v CEA: 667-EEU-FC1H100L 10uF 50v
AWG-027-0: C26: 10uF 16v CEA: 667-EEU-FC1H100L 10uF 50v
AWG-027-0: C29: 100uF 10v CEA: 667-EEU-FM1E101 100uF 25v
AWG-027-0: C30: 100uF 10v CEA: 667-EEU-FM1E101 100uF 25v
AWG-027-0: C31: 4.7uF 50v CEA: 667-EEU-FC1H4R7 4.7uF 50v
AWG-027-0: C32: 4.7uF 50v CEA: 667-EEU-FC1H4R7 4.7uF 50v
AWG-027-0: C39: 4.7uF 25v CEANL: 647-UKL1H4R7KDDANA 4.7uF 50v
AWG-027-0: C40: 4.7uF 25v CEANL: 647-UKL1H4R7KDDANA 4.7uF 50v
AWG-027-0: C41: 10uF 16v CEA: 667-EEU-FC1H100L 10uF 50v
AWG-027-0: C42: 10uF 16v CEA: 667-EEU-FC1H100L 10uF 50v
AWG-027-0: C45: 100uF 10v CEA: 667-EEU-FM1E101 100uF 25v
AWG-027-0: C46: 100uF 10v CEA: 667-EEU-FM1E101 100uF 25v
AWG-027-0: C47: 2.2uF 25v CSSA: 647-UKL1H2R2KDDANA 2.2uF 50v
AWG-027-0: C48: 2.2uF 25v CSSA: 647-UKL1H2R2KDDANA 2.2uF 50v
AWG-027-0: C49: 47uF 16v CEA or 100uF 16v CEA: 667-EEU-FM1E101 100uF 25v or 667-EEU-FM1E470 47uF 25v
AWG-027-0: C50: 47uF 16v CEA or 100uF 16v CEA: 667-EEU-FM1E101 100uF 25v or 667-EEU-FM1E470 47uF 25v
AWG-027-0: C51: 47uF 16v CEA or 100uF 16v CEA: 667-EEU-FM1E101 100uF 25v or 667-EEU-FM1E470 47uF 25v
AWG-027-0: C52: 47uF 16v CEA or 100uF 16v CEA: 667-EEU-FM1E101 100uF 25v or 667-EEU-FM1E470 47uF 25v
Q1: 2SA725: 512-KSA992FBU
Q2: 2SA725: 512-KSA992FBU
Q3: 2SC1313: 512-KSC1845FTA
Q4: 2SC1313: 512-KSC1845FTA
Q5: 2SC1313: 512-KSC1845FTA
Q6: 2SC1313: 512-KSC1845FTA
Q7: 2SC1313: 512-KSC1845FTA
Q8: 2SC1313: 512-KSC1845FTA
Power Amp Assembly (AWH-032-0) (Times two) (Check board number, the D version does not have the 1.5uF cap.) (Q1 and Q2 should ideally be gain matched, this is optional though)
AWH-032-0: C1: .68uF 25v CSSA: 505-MKS20.68/63/5 .68uF 50v
AWH-032-0: C2: 1.5uF 25v CSSA: 647-UKL1H1R5MDD1TA 1.5uF 50v (CHECK FOR THIS BEFORE ORDERING!!)
AWH-032-0: C4: 10uF 16v CEA: 647-UPW1E100MDD 10uF 25v
AWH-032-0: C8: 330uF 6.3v CEA: 647-UPW1A331MPD 330uF 10v
Q1: 2SA726: 512-KSA992FBU
Q2: 2SA726: 512-KSA992FBU
Q3: 2SA726: 512-KSA992FBU
Q5: 2SC1451: 512-KSC3503DSTU
Q6: 2SC1451: 512-KSC3503DSTU
VR1: 2.2K ohm multi offset: 652-3296P-1-202LF 2K ohm 25 turn
VR2: 470 ohm single bias: 652-3386H-1-501LF 500 ohm single turn
Protection Assembly (AWM-062-0)
AWM-062-0: C1: .22uF 10v CSSA: 505-MKS20.22/63/5 .22uF 63v
AWM-062-0: C2: .22uF 10v CSSA: 505-MKS20.22/63/5 .22uF 63v
AWM-062-0: C3: 330uF 6.3v CEA: 647-UPW1A331MPD 330uF 10v
AWM-062-0: C4: 330uF 6.3v CEA: 647-UPW1A331MPD 330uF 10v
AWM-062-0: C5: 4.7uF 25v CEA: 647-UPW1V4R7MDD 4.7uF 35v
AWM-062-0: C6: 100uF 16v CEA: 647-UPW1E101MED 100uF 25v
Q1: 2SC869: 512-KSC1845FTA
Q2: 2SC869: 512-KSC1845FTA
Q6: 2SC945: 512-KSC2383YTA
Q7: 2SC1384: 512-KSC2690AYS
1N4004 flyback diode is added between pins 9 (anode +) and 10 (cathode -)
Power Supply Assembly (AWR-054-0) (Stand the new resistors up off the board about a half inch)
AWR-054-0: C8: 470uF 80v CEA: 647-UPW2A471MHD 470uF 100v
AWR-054-0: C9: 470uF 80v CEA: 647-UPW2A471MHD 470uF 100v
AWR-054-0: C10: 100uF 63v CEA: 647-UPW2A101MHD 100uF 100v
AWR-054-0: C11: 100uF 63v CEA: 647-UPW2A101MHD 100uF 100v
AWR-054-0: C12: 100uF 35v CEA: 647-UPW1H101MPD 100uF 50v
AWR-054-0: C13: 100uF 35v CEA: 647-UPW1H101MPD 100uF 50v
AWR-054-0: C14: 47uF 50v CEA: 647-UPW1J470MPD 47uF 63v
AWR-054-0: C18: 1000uF 35v CEA: 647-UPW1H102MHD 1000uF 50v
AWR-054-0: C19: 220uF 16v CEA: 647-UPW1V221MPD6 220uF 35v
AWR-054-0: C20: 2200uF 10v CEA: 647-UPW1C222MHD 2200uF 16v
AWR-054-0: C21: 2200uF 10v CEA: 647-UPW1C222MHD 2200uF 16v
R11: 10 Ohm 1/4 watt: 660-MFS1/2DCT52R10R0 10 Ohm 1/2 watt
R12: 10 Ohm 1/4 watt: 660-MFS1/2DCT52R10R0 10 Ohm 1/2 watt
R20: 3.3 Ohm 1/4 watt: 660-MF1/2DCT52R3R32F 3.32 Ohm 1/2 watt
R21: 10 Ohm 1/4 watt: 660-MFS1/2DCT52R10R0 10 Ohm 1/2 watt
Q1: 2SD313: 863-MJE15032G
Q2: 2SC869: 512-KSC2383YTA
Q3: 2SC869: 512-KSC2383YTA
Q4: 2SB507: 863-MJE15033G
Q5: 2SA628A: 512-KSA1013YBU
Q6: 2SA628A: 512-KSA1013YBU
Q7: 2SD313: 863-MJE15032G
Q8: 2SC1384: 512-KSC2690AYS
Main filter caps, 18000uF 63v, 50mm dia x 90mm high:
(Digi-Key) 565-3331-ND, 18000uF 75v screw terminal 50.80mm dia x 79.38mm high
(Mouser) 661-E36D750N183TC79M, 18000uF 75v screw terminal 50.80mm dia x 79.38mm high
BOM List (with 4 100uF 25v caps for the tone amp, does not include the filter caps or the 1.5uF cap, add if needed)
505-MKS2C034701CJSSD | 1
647-UPW1H470MED | 1
647-UPW2A471MHD | 2
647-UPW1H102MHD | 1
647-UPW1V221MPD6 | 1
647-UPW1C222MHD | 2
647-UPW1E101MED | 1
647-UPW1V4R7MDD | 1
647-UPW1A331MPD | 4
505-MKS20.22/63/5 | 2
647-UPW1E100MDD | 2
505-MKS20.68/63/5 | 2
647-UKL1H2R2KDDANA | 6
647-UKL1C471KPD | 2
647-UKL1E101KPDANA | 4
647-UKL1C221KPDANA | 1
647-UKL1C100MDDANA | 2
505-MKS20.33/63/5 | 2
647-UKL1H4R7KDDANA | 4
647-UPW2A101MHD | 2
647-UPW1J470MPD | 1
647-UPW1H101MPD | 2
667-EEU-FC1H4R7 | 4
667-EEU-FC1H100L | 4
667-EEU-FM1E101 | 10
512-KSC1845FTA | 12
512-KSA992FBU | 12
512-KSC3503DSTU | 4
512-KSA1220AYS | 4
512-KSC2690AYS | 4
512-KSA1013YBU | 2
512-KSC2383YTA | 3
863-MJE15032G | 2
863-MJE15033G | 1
660-MFS1/2DCT52R10R0 | 3
660-MF1/2DCT52R3R32F | 1
652-3296P-1-202LF | 2
652-3386H-1-501LF | 2
Lets see where it falls in the sx-1010 lineage.
Pioneer SX-1010 recap list
This is "mattsd" list that I use:
Thank you Matt and MTF
Notes:
This list has the 5 %, 63v, WIMA films listed/incorporated, ECQ's are no longer available.
Some E-caps my require a voltage increase up if unavailable.
The cap height on the PS is most critical as the head room between the bottom cover is at issue.
Muting Assembly (AWM-039-A)
AWM-039-A: C1: .47uF 50v CEA: 505-MKS2C034701CJSSD .47uF 50v
AWM-039-A: C2: 47uF 50v CEA: 647-UPW1H470MED 47uF 50v
Equalizer Amp Assembly (AWF-013-0) (Q1 & Q3 and Q2 & Q4 should ideally be gain matched, this is optional though)
AWF-013-0: C1: 2.2uF 25v CSSA: 647-UKL1H2R2KDDANA 2.2uF 50v
AWF-013-0: C2: 2.2uF 25v CSSA: 647-UKL1H2R2KDDANA 2.2uF 50v
AWF-013-0: C5: 470uF 6.3v CEANL: 647-UKL1C471KPD 470uF 16v
AWF-013-0: C6: 470uF 6.3v CEANL: 647-UKL1C471KPD 470uF 16v
AWF-013-0: C9: 100uF 6.3v CEANL: 647-UKL1E101KPDANA 100uF 25v
AWF-013-0: C10: 100uF 6.3v CEANL: 647-UKL1E101KPDANA 100uF 25v
AWF-013-0: C11: 10uF 10v CEANL: 647-UKL1C100MDDANA 10uF 16v
AWF-013-0: C12: 10uF 10v CEANL: 647-UKL1C100MDDANA 10uF 16v
AWF-013-0: C19: 100uF 25v CEANL: 647-UKL1E101KPDANA 100uF 25v
AWF-013-0: C20: 100uF 25v CEANL: 647-UKL1E101KPDANA 100uF 25v
AWF-013-0: C21: 220uF 16v CEANL: 647-UKL1C221KPDANA 220uF 16v
Q1: 2SA725: 512-KSA992FBU
Q2: 2SA725: 512-KSA992FBU
Q3: 2SA725: 512-KSA992FBU
Q4: 2SA725: 512-KSA992FBU
Q5: 2SC1313: 512-KSC1845FTA
Q6: 2SC1313: 512-KSC1845FTA
Q7: 2SC1313: 512-KSC1845FTA
Q8: 2SC1313: 512-KSC1845FTA
Control Amp Assembly (AWG-027-0) (Check C49-52, the A version of this board has them as 100uF 16v CEA instead of 47uF 16v CEA like the manual states)
AWG-027-0: C1: .33uF 25v: CSSA: 505-MKS20.33/63/5 .33uF 63v
AWG-027-0: C2: .33uF 25v: CSSA: 505-MKS20.33/63/5 .33uF 63v
AWG-027-0: C7: 100uF 10v CEA: 667-EEU-FM1E101 100uF 25v
AWG-027-0: C8: 100uF 10v CEA: 667-EEU-FM1E101 100uF 25v
AWG-027-0: C13: 2.2uF 25v CSSA: 647-UKL1H2R2KDDANA 2.2uF 50v
AWG-027-0: C14: 2.2uF 25v CSSA: 647-UKL1H2R2KDDANA 2.2uF 50v
AWG-027-0: C15: 4.7uF 50v CEA: 667-EEU-FC1H4R7 4.7uF 50v
AWG-027-0: C16: 4.7uF 50v CEA: 667-EEU-FC1H4R7 4.7uF 50v
AWG-027-0: C23: 4.7uF 25v CEANL: 647-UKL1H4R7KDDANA 4.7uF 50v
AWG-027-0: C24: 4.7uF 25v CEANL: 647-UKL1H4R7KDDANA 4.7uF 50v
AWG-027-0: C25: 10uF 16v CEA: 667-EEU-FC1H100L 10uF 50v
AWG-027-0: C26: 10uF 16v CEA: 667-EEU-FC1H100L 10uF 50v
AWG-027-0: C29: 100uF 10v CEA: 667-EEU-FM1E101 100uF 25v
AWG-027-0: C30: 100uF 10v CEA: 667-EEU-FM1E101 100uF 25v
AWG-027-0: C31: 4.7uF 50v CEA: 667-EEU-FC1H4R7 4.7uF 50v
AWG-027-0: C32: 4.7uF 50v CEA: 667-EEU-FC1H4R7 4.7uF 50v
AWG-027-0: C39: 4.7uF 25v CEANL: 647-UKL1H4R7KDDANA 4.7uF 50v
AWG-027-0: C40: 4.7uF 25v CEANL: 647-UKL1H4R7KDDANA 4.7uF 50v
AWG-027-0: C41: 10uF 16v CEA: 667-EEU-FC1H100L 10uF 50v
AWG-027-0: C42: 10uF 16v CEA: 667-EEU-FC1H100L 10uF 50v
AWG-027-0: C45: 100uF 10v CEA: 667-EEU-FM1E101 100uF 25v
AWG-027-0: C46: 100uF 10v CEA: 667-EEU-FM1E101 100uF 25v
AWG-027-0: C47: 2.2uF 25v CSSA: 647-UKL1H2R2KDDANA 2.2uF 50v
AWG-027-0: C48: 2.2uF 25v CSSA: 647-UKL1H2R2KDDANA 2.2uF 50v
AWG-027-0: C49: 47uF 16v CEA or 100uF 16v CEA: 667-EEU-FM1E101 100uF 25v or 667-EEU-FM1E470 47uF 25v
AWG-027-0: C50: 47uF 16v CEA or 100uF 16v CEA: 667-EEU-FM1E101 100uF 25v or 667-EEU-FM1E470 47uF 25v
AWG-027-0: C51: 47uF 16v CEA or 100uF 16v CEA: 667-EEU-FM1E101 100uF 25v or 667-EEU-FM1E470 47uF 25v
AWG-027-0: C52: 47uF 16v CEA or 100uF 16v CEA: 667-EEU-FM1E101 100uF 25v or 667-EEU-FM1E470 47uF 25v
Q1: 2SA725: 512-KSA992FBU
Q2: 2SA725: 512-KSA992FBU
Q3: 2SC1313: 512-KSC1845FTA
Q4: 2SC1313: 512-KSC1845FTA
Q5: 2SC1313: 512-KSC1845FTA
Q6: 2SC1313: 512-KSC1845FTA
Q7: 2SC1313: 512-KSC1845FTA
Q8: 2SC1313: 512-KSC1845FTA
Power Amp Assembly (AWH-032-0) (Times two) (Check board number, the D version does not have the 1.5uF cap.) (Q1 and Q2 should ideally be gain matched, this is optional though)
AWH-032-0: C1: .68uF 25v CSSA: 505-MKS20.68/63/5 .68uF 50v
AWH-032-0: C2: 1.5uF 25v CSSA: 647-UKL1H1R5MDD1TA 1.5uF 50v (CHECK FOR THIS BEFORE ORDERING!!)
AWH-032-0: C4: 10uF 16v CEA: 647-UPW1E100MDD 10uF 25v
AWH-032-0: C8: 330uF 6.3v CEA: 647-UPW1A331MPD 330uF 10v
Q1: 2SA726: 512-KSA992FBU
Q2: 2SA726: 512-KSA992FBU
Q3: 2SA726: 512-KSA992FBU
Q5: 2SC1451: 512-KSC3503DSTU
Q6: 2SC1451: 512-KSC3503DSTU
VR1: 2.2K ohm multi offset: 652-3296P-1-202LF 2K ohm 25 turn
VR2: 470 ohm single bias: 652-3386H-1-501LF 500 ohm single turn
Protection Assembly (AWM-062-0)
AWM-062-0: C1: .22uF 10v CSSA: 505-MKS20.22/63/5 .22uF 63v
AWM-062-0: C2: .22uF 10v CSSA: 505-MKS20.22/63/5 .22uF 63v
AWM-062-0: C3: 330uF 6.3v CEA: 647-UPW1A331MPD 330uF 10v
AWM-062-0: C4: 330uF 6.3v CEA: 647-UPW1A331MPD 330uF 10v
AWM-062-0: C5: 4.7uF 25v CEA: 647-UPW1V4R7MDD 4.7uF 35v
AWM-062-0: C6: 100uF 16v CEA: 647-UPW1E101MED 100uF 25v
Q1: 2SC869: 512-KSC1845FTA
Q2: 2SC869: 512-KSC1845FTA
Q6: 2SC945: 512-KSC2383YTA
Q7: 2SC1384: 512-KSC2690AYS
1N4004 flyback diode is added between pins 9 (anode +) and 10 (cathode -)
Power Supply Assembly (AWR-054-0) (Stand the new resistors up off the board about a half inch)
AWR-054-0: C8: 470uF 80v CEA: 647-UPW2A471MHD 470uF 100v
AWR-054-0: C9: 470uF 80v CEA: 647-UPW2A471MHD 470uF 100v
AWR-054-0: C10: 100uF 63v CEA: 647-UPW2A101MHD 100uF 100v
AWR-054-0: C11: 100uF 63v CEA: 647-UPW2A101MHD 100uF 100v
AWR-054-0: C12: 100uF 35v CEA: 647-UPW1H101MPD 100uF 50v
AWR-054-0: C13: 100uF 35v CEA: 647-UPW1H101MPD 100uF 50v
AWR-054-0: C14: 47uF 50v CEA: 647-UPW1J470MPD 47uF 63v
AWR-054-0: C18: 1000uF 35v CEA: 647-UPW1H102MHD 1000uF 50v
AWR-054-0: C19: 220uF 16v CEA: 647-UPW1V221MPD6 220uF 35v
AWR-054-0: C20: 2200uF 10v CEA: 647-UPW1C222MHD 2200uF 16v
AWR-054-0: C21: 2200uF 10v CEA: 647-UPW1C222MHD 2200uF 16v
R11: 10 Ohm 1/4 watt: 660-MFS1/2DCT52R10R0 10 Ohm 1/2 watt
R12: 10 Ohm 1/4 watt: 660-MFS1/2DCT52R10R0 10 Ohm 1/2 watt
R20: 3.3 Ohm 1/4 watt: 660-MF1/2DCT52R3R32F 3.32 Ohm 1/2 watt
R21: 10 Ohm 1/4 watt: 660-MFS1/2DCT52R10R0 10 Ohm 1/2 watt
Q1: 2SD313: 863-MJE15032G
Q2: 2SC869: 512-KSC2383YTA
Q3: 2SC869: 512-KSC2383YTA
Q4: 2SB507: 863-MJE15033G
Q5: 2SA628A: 512-KSA1013YBU
Q6: 2SA628A: 512-KSA1013YBU
Q7: 2SD313: 863-MJE15032G
Q8: 2SC1384: 512-KSC2690AYS
Main filter caps, 18000uF 63v, 50mm dia x 90mm high:
(Digi-Key) 565-3331-ND, 18000uF 75v screw terminal 50.80mm dia x 79.38mm high
(Mouser) 661-E36D750N183TC79M, 18000uF 75v screw terminal 50.80mm dia x 79.38mm high
BOM List (with 4 100uF 25v caps for the tone amp, does not include the filter caps or the 1.5uF cap, add if needed)
505-MKS2C034701CJSSD | 1
647-UPW1H470MED | 1
647-UPW2A471MHD | 2
647-UPW1H102MHD | 1
647-UPW1V221MPD6 | 1
647-UPW1C222MHD | 2
647-UPW1E101MED | 1
647-UPW1V4R7MDD | 1
647-UPW1A331MPD | 4
505-MKS20.22/63/5 | 2
647-UPW1E100MDD | 2
505-MKS20.68/63/5 | 2
647-UKL1H2R2KDDANA | 6
647-UKL1C471KPD | 2
647-UKL1E101KPDANA | 4
647-UKL1C221KPDANA | 1
647-UKL1C100MDDANA | 2
505-MKS20.33/63/5 | 2
647-UKL1H4R7KDDANA | 4
647-UPW2A101MHD | 2
647-UPW1J470MPD | 1
647-UPW1H101MPD | 2
667-EEU-FC1H4R7 | 4
667-EEU-FC1H100L | 4
667-EEU-FM1E101 | 10
512-KSC1845FTA | 12
512-KSA992FBU | 12
512-KSC3503DSTU | 4
512-KSA1220AYS | 4
512-KSC2690AYS | 4
512-KSA1013YBU | 2
512-KSC2383YTA | 3
863-MJE15032G | 2
863-MJE15033G | 1
660-MFS1/2DCT52R10R0 | 3
660-MF1/2DCT52R3R32F | 1
652-3296P-1-202LF | 2
652-3386H-1-501LF | 2
Last edited:
Try Simple Green.
Contact cleaner evaporates to fast.
It is an early model.
The big filter caps are way to low in the clamps and should be moved away from the bottom cover.
You are planing to replace them(?), still - I would move them up and not take any chances.
Order the resistors for the Power Supply and plan on replacing them.
Raise the new resistors off the board and give them some breathing room. Similar to the raised ones the factory did.
Things look a little toasty, not the worst I've seen. Be careful with the plastic standoffs they will break easily.
I'm tryng a new standoff but haven't used them as yet so I don't have an opinion. I'll have more info after the holiday.
Contact cleaner evaporates to fast.
It is an early model.
The big filter caps are way to low in the clamps and should be moved away from the bottom cover.
You are planing to replace them(?), still - I would move them up and not take any chances.
Order the resistors for the Power Supply and plan on replacing them.
Raise the new resistors off the board and give them some breathing room. Similar to the raised ones the factory did.
Things look a little toasty, not the worst I've seen. Be careful with the plastic standoffs they will break easily.
I'm tryng a new standoff but haven't used them as yet so I don't have an opinion. I'll have more info after the holiday.
Some of the Power Supply caps have been replaced.
And the filter caps have been messed with.
That's all I can see with whats been provided.
I've seen some 1010 sets with solder over wraps but not like the above.
I wondered if the tech's back then would solder the wraps as GP?
The set I'm working has no soldered wraps.
And the filter caps have been messed with.
That's all I can see with whats been provided.
I've seen some 1010 sets with solder over wraps but not like the above.
I wondered if the tech's back then would solder the wraps as GP?
The set I'm working has no soldered wraps.
Im site
Those are 22,000uf caps not 2200uf, they are fine for the application, but as Zeb said they are sitting way too high they should be readjusted lower so they do not make contact with the metal bottom cover.Looks like a couple of the wires were broken off at one point on the power amp and soldered back on #10 and #11 pins, make sure they are on correctly.
This is one of Mark's lists that I use everytime when I do a 1010, I've been using KSC3503 at Q7 and KSA1381 at Q4
awh-032 Q1 2SA726 KSA992FBU
awh-032 Q2 2SA726 KSA992FBU
awh-032 Q3 2SA726 KSA992FBU
awh-032 q4 2sb528 KSA1381
awh-032 Q5 2SC1451 KSC3503DSTU
awh-032 Q6 2SC1451 KSC3503DSTU
awh-032 q7 2sd358 KSC3503
awh-032 q8 2sb528 KSA1381
awh-032 q9 2sc1448 KSC2073
awh-032 q10 2sa740 KSA940
awh-032 q11 2sc945 KSC1845FTA
awh-032 q12 2sa733 KSA992FBU
awh-032 D1 1S2473 IN4148
awh-032 D2 1S2473 IN4148
awh-032 D3 1S2472 UF4004
awh-032 D4 1S2472 UF4004
awh-032 D7 1S1885 UF4004
awh-032 D8 1S1885 UF4004
awh-032 VR1 2.2K multi T 652-3296P-1-202LF
awh-032 VR2 470 ohms 1T 652-3386H-1-501LF
awh-032 Q1 2SA726 KSA992FBU
awh-032 Q2 2SA726 KSA992FBU
awh-032 Q3 2SA726 KSA992FBU
awh-032 q4 2sb528 KSA1381
awh-032 Q5 2SC1451 KSC3503DSTU
awh-032 Q6 2SC1451 KSC3503DSTU
awh-032 q7 2sd358 KSC3503
awh-032 q8 2sb528 KSA1381
awh-032 q9 2sc1448 KSC2073
awh-032 q10 2sa740 KSA940
awh-032 q11 2sc945 KSC1845FTA
awh-032 q12 2sa733 KSA992FBU
awh-032 D1 1S2473 IN4148
awh-032 D2 1S2473 IN4148
awh-032 D3 1S2472 UF4004
awh-032 D4 1S2472 UF4004
awh-032 D7 1S1885 UF4004
awh-032 D8 1S1885 UF4004
awh-032 VR1 2.2K multi T 652-3296P-1-202LF
awh-032 VR2 470 ohms 1T 652-3386H-1-501LF
Last edited:
If you want to do the full transistor upgrade use the list "tsd71" provided above.
The list I posted is only covering the troublesome transistors in the power amp boards.
Your set is an earlier model. If it's working and appears to be original and well kept I would only replace the problematic tranys.
Its really no matter but the more you mess with the boards the higher the probability of inducing unwanted issues.
If the outputs had been replaced I would do the full rebuild.
The 1010 was a fantastic set right from the start. It was produced in volumes and for several years with little factory improvements along the way.
All the 1010 sets are well built and designed - from the first made to the last.
I like to keep the incandescent lamps. The dimmer function is a nice classy touch which get lost when converting to LED's. My opinion.
The benefits of the LED's are the bright vivid display and less draw on the dimmer switch, which is the one and only - weak circuit design in the set.
The list I posted is only covering the troublesome transistors in the power amp boards.
Your set is an earlier model. If it's working and appears to be original and well kept I would only replace the problematic tranys.
Its really no matter but the more you mess with the boards the higher the probability of inducing unwanted issues.
If the outputs had been replaced I would do the full rebuild.
The 1010 was a fantastic set right from the start. It was produced in volumes and for several years with little factory improvements along the way.
All the 1010 sets are well built and designed - from the first made to the last.
I like to keep the incandescent lamps. The dimmer function is a nice classy touch which get lost when converting to LED's. My opinion.
The benefits of the LED's are the bright vivid display and less draw on the dimmer switch, which is the one and only - weak circuit design in the set.
