SX-1010 shopping list

[str8tlk]

Hi all, and thank you for the warm welcome Susurus. This would be my second post! My brother was over recently and had a chance to listen to both my receivers, a Onkyo tx-8500 and a sansui 8080db. Well turns out he has identical speakers as I do "cerwin vega-re-30's".so far hes been through 5 new mid price range newer receivers and has very unhappy with them to say the least. After listing to both my vintage receivers he just fell in love with them sooo.. I decided I would give him one of mine. After listening to both he really liked the power and sound of my Onkyo over the Sansui. I told him no way I would give him my fully restored Tx-8500 heh. I ended up trading the Sansui for a Pioneer tx-1010 yesterday since it has identical wattage as the Onkyo. After reading up on it here, the same problem areas need to be addressed so now im making a shopping list hence this post, but Ive never ordered any of these parts and need a little help..Any one up for it?



I have the service manual, digital multimeter, soldering station and desoldering gun.+ certification in digital & basic electronics "5 years ago"

so far Ive pieced this together from Markthefixer?

--Power regulator board---

C7 & C8 470uf (80v) 100v 647-UPW2A471MHD $1.87 ea
C10, C11 100uf (63v) 100v 647-UPW2A101MHD $0.87 ea
C12 & C13 100uf (35v) 63v 647-UPW1J101MPD1TD $0.37 ea
C14 47uf 50v 647-UPW1H470MED $0.25
C18 1000uf (35v) 50v 647-UPW1H102MHD1CV $0.98
C19 220uf (16v) 35v 647-UPW1V221MPD $0.41
C20 & C21 2200uf 10v 647-UPW1A222MHD $0.80 ea

Would this cover the whole regulator board?

One of the two main caps has a big bulge on it:thumbsdn: What should I replace both of them with and what to use for the parts that connects them together?

I also would like to re mount and T.I.M. the output transistors. What parts would I need to do this? I have T.I.M already.

Should I recap any thing else while I'm at it?


It would be really cool if i could order this all this from one supplier but It wouldn't bother me to order from 2 different outfits.

Ill post pictures of the unit in a bit. Man if any body wants to help me out with this that would just be AWSOME. The local repair shop wants to charge me 500 dollars to do all this. Im really looking forward to comparing the Tx-500 to the SX-1010 :yes:

 

[ZeroJunk]

I rebuilt the regulator board in mine last week, transistors, zener diodes, and caps. Took about three hours. I did the protection board also. Mark has several threads on here that list all the parts. Probably less than $50 for all of it. I would certainly replace a bulging cap. But, I'm not going to mess with anything else as long as it sounds good.

 

[EchoWars]

SX-1010 Power Supply caps: http://www.newark.com/united-chemi-con/36da183f075bb2n/aluminum-electrolytic-capacitor/dp/06H1271

Note that the bulging of the plastic cap on the top doesn't really mean a lot, other than the plastic cap is bulged. It's the business end that's important.

 

[str8tlk]

I rebuilt the regulator board in mine last week, transistors, zener diodes, and caps. Took about three hours. I did the protection board also. Mark has several threads on here that list all the parts. Probably less than $50 for all of it. I would certainly replace a bulging cap. But, I'm not going to mess with anything else as long as it sounds good.

Do you think you can tell me which/how many transistors & zener diodes to get? I tried searching and couldn't find it.

EchoWars- THANK YOU for the link:thmbsp::yes:
The buldge is on the bottom and looks like a big black pimple. Should I re use the components that connect both of them?

 

[ZeroJunk]

Power supply board from Mark. I'll see if I can dig up the protection board.

sx-1010 AWR054 power supply rebuild

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I'll get a under 5(? w/o shipping) buck list together to do the power supply pass transistors and a few resistors. That's how I conquered maddarts power supply problem.

I should have just stressed that from the start.

Q4 2sb507
one 512-KSA940TU_Q pnp to-220 bce 150v 1.5a 25w 4mhz 40-140hfe $0.54

Q1 Q7 2sd313
two 512-KSC2073TU npn to-220 bce 150v 1.5a 25w 4mhz 40-140hfe $0.54 ea

Q8 2sc1384 (ecb)
one 512-KSC2690AYS to-126 ecb 120/a160 1.2a 20w 155mhz 35-320hfe $0.40
or one 512-KSC2682YSTU to-126 ecb 180v .1a 1.2/8w 200mhz 100-320hfe $0.31 (preferred, the current is below 0.1 amp)

Q5 Q6 2sa628 (BCE)
two 512-KSA1013YBU to-92 ecb 160v 1a .9w 50mhz 160-320hfe $0.17 ea

Q2 Q3 2sc869 (ecb)
two 512-KSC2383YBU to-92 ecb 160v 1a .9w 50mhz 160-320hfe $0.17 ea

D8 D9 wz-032
two 512-1N5257B Fairchild 33 V, 0.5W zener $0.05 ea

D10 wz-014
one 512-1N5244B Fairchild 14 V, 0.5W Zener $0.05

two ten ohms 1/4 watt metal film 660-MF1/4DC10R0F 0.06 ea
one 3.3 ohms 1/4 watt metal film 660-MF1/4DC3R30F 0.06

was the power supply recapped?
ok, here's the caps:
C7 & C8 470uf (80v) 100v 647-UPW2A471MHD $1.87 ea
C10, C11 100uf (63v) 100v 647-UPW2A101MHD $0.87 ea
C12 & C13 100uf (35v) 63v 647-UPW1J101MPD1TD $0.37 ea
C14 47uf 50v 647-UPW1H470MED $0.25
C18 1000uf (35v) 50v 647-UPW1H102MHD1CV $0.98
C19 220uf (16v) 35v 647-UPW1V221MPD $0.41
C20 & C21 2200uf 10v 647-UPW1A222MHD $0.80 ea

extra parts just in case somebody's looking :
D1 D2 D3 D4 SIB01 100v 1amp
D5 D6 D7 1S1885 100v 1amp
512-1n4004 conventional rectifier 1a 400v $0.06 ea
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SX-750 SX-1250 SX-1010 Kappa 6's Kappa 8's SP2500's Seeburg DDS-1's Denon DCD-1560 X2 Denon PMA2000 Pioneer F-99X

 

[EchoWars]

The buldge is on the bottom and looks like a big black pimple.

Ah...different matter altogether. Those caps must go, then.

Should I re use the components that connect both of them?

Say what? Talking about the bleed resistors? If so, replace them with 5.6K 3W jobs.

 

[ZeroJunk]

Here is Marks list for components to be urgraded on the protection board.

You can order these from mouser.com:
two:Q6, Q7 522-ZTX1056A $1.51 ea NPN TO-92E ebc 150v 3a 1w (Vce(sat)=0.3v @ 3a) 120mhz 30-1200 hfe relay driver transistor
one: C6 100uf/16v (100/35) 647-UPW1V101MPD $0.15 protection circuit timing capacitor
one: C5 4.7uf/25v (4.7/50) 647-UPW1H4R7MDD $0.23 protection circuit ac power on signal integrator
two: C1, C2 0.22uf /10v (0.22uf/50v) 598-DSF050J224 $0.50 ea over-current integrators. polyester film capacitors!!!
two: C3, C4 330uf/25v (330/25) 647-UPW1E331MPD $0.51 ea
one: new part 512-1n4004 conventional rectifier 1a 400v $0.06 ea

The other transistors (Q1-Q5) in the protection circuit won't need changing. You are ADDING the 1n4004 diode to prevent what has already happened to you from happening again, every time the relay turns off, the magnetic field's energy has to go somewhere, so it makes a negative voltage pulse that destroys a little bit of the Q7 junction every time, the diode shunts this energy away from the transistor, at the cost of a few MILLISECONDS more time for the relay to disengage...
Pioneer did the diode thing on newer and higher end models as part of the design later on.

 

[str8tlk]

Looks good ty. Do I connect pin 9 and 10 with the new diode that I will be adding to the protect board?

 

[markthefixer]

Looks good ty. Do I connect pin 9 and 10 with the new diode that I will be adding to the protect board?

the diode's anode is connected to pin 9, pin 10 has the cathode / banded end connected to it.

 

[str8tlk]

recapping is going good. Got a few questions though.

On the protection board Im replacing C1, C2 0.22uf /10v capacitors.
I got (0.22uf/50v) polyester film capacitors to replace them with.
Now is there a negative lead on these poly caps if so how can I tell which one it is.

also I dont have and subs for the transistors on this board. should I order them as per your list or should I keep the originals? TYVM :yes:

 

[Leestereo]

The poly caps are non-polar as are all film caps.

 

[str8tlk]

Thank you

 

[vintaggeman]

your avatar is awesome!:drool::drool:

 

[str8tlk]

Thanks

 

[markthefixer]

Some of the transistors should be updated, some can be left alone, but considering the prices of the remaining "left alone" transistors, I would get them too.

Test it with the new caps - but some of the "should replace" transistors could be the fault.

 

[str8tlk]

Ok , I have a set of replacement transistors for the power supply board "voltage regulator board" should I replace them or leave the originals in.

Also, should I order new replacement transistors for the protection board or leave the originals in.

Im about to go wire up the main replacement caps and add to additional caps to them plus the bleed resistors. Is there a particular method to this, I think Im just going to wrap then solder the wires to the screw terminals.

very first time soldering yesterday, I recapped the power regulator board and also the protection board. I think it came out very nice. I used a bulb desoldering iron, desoldering braid, luquid flux, and a 15 watt pencill iron.

Im going to be recap most of this unit. and Im also building a plexi glass cover with the original vent grill used. It will look neat. I think I got a military version because the metal covers inside are army green instead of black like other sx-1010's on here.

Ill post some pics as I go along. Ill also post original capacitor values for each board.

Thank you for the help

 

[str8tlk]

So im going to get some ring terminals connectors for the wires and resistors here. Should I hook up these additional 680uf 63 caps or get different film caps to add? I read on a different post that it will help the sound stage.

 

[markthefixer]

I'm at AKFEST so i don't have the numbers but use a 2.2uf metal film cap across each big cap.

edit:
film bypass caps for main caps:
EW uses digikey's panasonic P10983 (1.10, 10=.82, 100=.62)

mouser.com: 5989-100V2.2-F 2.2uf cornell dublier 100v met poly $1.19 ea
mouser.com: 5989-250V2.2-F 2.2uf cornell dublier 250v met poly $1.75 ea.

 

[str8tlk]

Cool, Wish I was there.

 

[shaqdaddy86]

So im going to get some ring terminals connectors for the wires and resistors here. Should I hook up these additional 680uf 63 caps or get different film caps to add? I read on a different post that it will help the sound stage.

I was just wondering if the only reason to run the resistor across the caps was to drain the caps (for safety in repairs)? I recently replaced mine and did not put the resistors back on and wanted to make sure I wasn't hurting anything.