SX-1980 power supply problems

We tried to make the part exactly like the original however the 3D ABS material we are using does not have much elasticity to it. When we squeezed the tab to put in into the sheet metal the plastic fractured.

We use the 3D printer daily at work... It really saves us a bunch of time and money by allowing us to fab up prototype parts or just a quick replacement of something plastic. For really big parts we send the drawing out and get a part back in a couple days. It's biggest help is with long lead time parts like ceramics.

We also have a 3D scanner but it's not really used that much, only on complex curved parts.
 
The thought concerned the SX-D7000 tone slider knobs and internal link part of the SX-D7000.

The knob is square with a central light pipe that both conducts light through itself, and is used to connect with the internal link. The link is a tension fit on the clear acrylic insert.

But that is a distraction from this thread.
 
The thought concerned the SX-D7000 tone slider knobs and internal link part of the SX-D7000.

The knob is square with a central light pipe that both conducts light through itself, and is used to connect with the internal link. The link is a tension fit on the clear acrylic insert.

But that is a distraction from this thread.

PM sent
 
I received 10 of the protection IC's from a seller in Hong Kong. They look to be OEM pioneer parts. :thmbsp:

So now it's time to build the rest of the boards and give them a test...
 
Any update turbo?

We are making progress... Mitchel is assembling the PCB's and I am giving the test mule a bit of spa treatment. We are sneaking this in amongst a million other things at work.

When I got the 1980 it had a bad power supply. We only repaired and recapped the amp section so we could test the board.

Now the rest of it needs to be addressed. The pots and switches are causing dropouts and the tuning cap needs to be cleaned. So while its apart I am going to complete the recapping, clean the pots and switches, change the lamps and detail the chassis.

Hopefully by next week we will have the unit back up and can test some boards. :D

21728529605_a7d1a1204a_b.jpg


21541677349_58df9e799b_b.jpg
 
Appreciate the update TT. There are scores of us anxiously awaiting your results.


Sure thing, this thread has been amusing to say the least. One thing is to restore a unit and another is what you've done with that ps board. Amazing!
 
Amounts to one heck of a lot of work, $, great progress!!
Do have the fader lube spray? I just bought some, noticed it comes in two formulas.
How do you plan to clean the var cap?
 
I have Deoxit D5 and F5..

I was just going to use a drop of D5 on the ground wipers where they contact the tuning cap shaft between each gang. Put a drop on the contact and work it in for a pit and let it sit then clean it off with some zero residue cleaner. MTF said I should try a drip of tarnex instead of the D5, so I'll probably give that a go.



Amounts to one heck of a lot of work, $, great progress!!
Do have the fader lube spray? I just bought some, noticed it comes in two formulas.
How do you plan to clean the var cap?
 
I said a q-tip and to clean it off immediately using water wetting q tips. and that WAS a private suggestion. a shortcut to an hours long procedure, that takes 24 hours to dry out.
the information is held closely and NOT put online because the potential for ruination is too great without extreme care. :yikes:

deoxit doesn't TOUCH that stuff, some folks have talked about using wd-40, which is a witch's brew of solvents with the water displacer and the oil.
 
Sorry about the disclosure...

I am sure you're right about the deoxit... I tried it on a 2500 cap and it really did not do much. I must have tried it ten times...Ultimately I ended up removing the cap and put it in an ultrasonic tank. I did use the Deoxit to loosen up the crud. I always rinsed anything I put on the cap with zero residue cleaner.



I said a q-tip and to clean it off immediately using water wetting q tips. and that WAS a private suggestion. a shortcut to an hours long procedure, that takes 24 hours to dry out.
the information is held closely and NOT put online because the potential for ruination is too great without extreme care. :yikes:

deoxit doesn't TOUCH that stuff, some folks have talked about using wd-40, which is a witch's brew of solvents with the water displacer and the oil.
 
The receiver survived the recap

I needed to clean the tuner cap ground connections. I tried dioxit d5 administered precisely using a syringe. A drop of Deoxit, work the tuner and let it sit then clean the area with some zero residue cleaner. After the first cycle of the cleaning you could see the chunks of green build up where the ground straps come in contact with the tuning cap shaft. I used a pipe cleaner and very gently broke the chunks free. I repeated the D5 and zero residue cleaner cycle a few times but it was not getting much cleaner. I then switched to Deoxit D100, that worked much better. Now the tuna works great!

I replaced the input selector and speaker indicator lamps with white LED's. I just need to replace the main lamps.

Next week we will finish building up the boards and test them all out.
 
Last edited:
Even though I don't understand any of the technical info, this is probably the coolest thread I have read in a while

Someone asked somewhere in this thread about tech's completely redesigning old equipment. Well, when it's done and done right, the end result is a much better unit that eliminates all the old problems while taking advantage of the better componentry available today vs 40 years ago. Case in point is White Oak Audio and the creation of the WOPL using the PL400 series 1 and 700B amplifiers as a platform. It's a labor of love and commitment and the end result is truly stellar

I commend you for the idea of creating new boards and moving stuff around to address the heat issues

Taking something great and making it better, my hat is off to all you folks!
 
Time for a quick update...

Making progress on more boards. The master Mitch has them in the que to assemble then I'll transplant them (really just plug them in) to the 1980 mule to test and adjust.

The initial board has been running daily for a few weeks now without any problems.

I need to finish putting the receiver back together. Really it just needs to have the face plate cleaned up and reassembled. The tuner is working great, and the cleaned controls and switches cleaned up the noise and dropouts. I recapped most of the boards except the tuner and did not replace the main filter caps. I may save that for another day. At the moment it sounds nice. The only other thing I would like to do is replace the lamp sockets and bulbs for the display.

21623697093_97eea25478_b.jpg
 
Back
Top Bottom