SX-3x00 Receivers - The Mother Lode
- Thread starter Dr. Strangelove
- Start date
markallen
Luddite Tendencies
Thanks for posting the brochures from the F-scan series. Fun to see. To me, some of the most attractive receivers Pioneer ever made - heck, that ANYONE ever made - in the vintage era.
One thing I'd be interested to learn, should any AK readers have info, is the origin of the "black dial" alternatives: the SX-620, 720 & 820 (these also have white f-scan readouts instead of blue). They rarely show up on the well-known auction website, and when they do, I am always surprised they don't necessarily bring a premium despite being so very uncommon. Same goes for the black dial alternatives to the SX-580, 680, 780 and 880, the x90 series.
Anyone have any info on any of these harder to find units, like why Pioneer introduced them, why so few were made, why only certain models were offered - anything at all? I have collected examples of at least one of each of the above units, and consider them the treasures of my "museum", but really know nothing about their history. Anyone? Anyone?
One thing I'd be interested to learn, should any AK readers have info, is the origin of the "black dial" alternatives: the SX-620, 720 & 820 (these also have white f-scan readouts instead of blue). They rarely show up on the well-known auction website, and when they do, I am always surprised they don't necessarily bring a premium despite being so very uncommon. Same goes for the black dial alternatives to the SX-580, 680, 780 and 880, the x90 series.
Anyone have any info on any of these harder to find units, like why Pioneer introduced them, why so few were made, why only certain models were offered - anything at all? I have collected examples of at least one of each of the above units, and consider them the treasures of my "museum", but really know nothing about their history. Anyone? Anyone?
Sansui Louie
Curmudgeon
If anyone has a source for the red and green lights behind the selector and speaker switches, I'm all ears....need a few for my SX-3900
markallen
Luddite Tendencies
Sansui Louie, those are not red/green lights, they are colored lenses that the lamps shine through. All the bulbs behind those switches are common 8v (50mA?) minis. The original Stanley bulbs are labeled if you need to know.
I have not changed out these lamps on the SX-3900, but have done a few SX-3700s, including one just this week. As first it was not obvious how to even get to the bulbs, but once I figured it out it was a fairly easy job (if anyone is interested let me know, will be glad to help). Not sure if the 3900 has the same access procedure, but once you get into it, make sure you have the proper diameter bulb as the clips that hold them in place would have to be modified (not hard to do, but avoid it if you can) if the replacements are even slightly larger.
I think your best source for the lamps is AK member dgwogo, but you may know that already. He can probably tell you exactly what is required for your 3900.
I have not changed out these lamps on the SX-3900, but have done a few SX-3700s, including one just this week. As first it was not obvious how to even get to the bulbs, but once I figured it out it was a fairly easy job (if anyone is interested let me know, will be glad to help). Not sure if the 3900 has the same access procedure, but once you get into it, make sure you have the proper diameter bulb as the clips that hold them in place would have to be modified (not hard to do, but avoid it if you can) if the replacements are even slightly larger.
I think your best source for the lamps is AK member dgwogo, but you may know that already. He can probably tell you exactly what is required for your 3900.
MRFLASHPORT
Member
great post. I have an SX-3700 which I bought at Goodwill last year, and while it is a little beat (vinyl is peeling and some scratches) she plays great, and is living out her life as an office sound system coupled with a PD-4100 CD player (10 dollar yard sale find) and a CT-F4242 tape deck, this and some free to me Bose 901's...it's hell on wheels. The flouroscan metering and freq counter are what do it for me...I guess we'll never see anything like that again. My Denon DRM-740 cassette deck has a flourescent meter...but it isn't the same as Pioneer flouroscan...nothing but the real thing...COOL BLUE...
lazyhaze
New Member
I picked up a SX-3800 a few days ago...cosmetically it is in pretty rough shape, but electrically it is fantastic. It has lots of bulbs out, and while I replaced the tuner dial bulbs without any trouble, I don't see a way to get at the indicator lamps without taking the entire receiver apart...markallen you said you had an easy way, I would love to know what it is...
markallen
Luddite Tendencies
SX-3700 (3800, 3900?) Switch Lamp Replacement
By popular demand, here's what I found works on the 3700:
1. Unplug power, remove case (4 screws)
2. Remove knobs and toggle switch caps (now is a great time to clean them)
3. Remove face panel (2 screws – 1 each top front corners + 2 retainer nuts, 1 on each of power switch and volume control pot). Gently pull panel straight out, CAREFULLY lay aside. SEE CAUTION BELOW in #9.
4. At this point, I recommend using a very small one-hand bar clamp and GENTLY clamp it on the main tuning capacitor pulley to keep the tuning pointer string on/in the proper grooves. If the string is not kept in place somehow, it’s not the end of the world but you’d likely have to mess around to get it back in place properly. Tape might be another option. Suggestion: take pics before you proceed; put that digital camera to work!
5. There are two screws at each end of the "dial assembly module" holding it to the main receiver chassis. These can now be removed.
6. Carefully raise and tilt back the dial assembly module. You should now be able to see the plastic lamp brackets and the circuit boards where the lamp leads connect to their posts (good lighting is particularly important at this point). Support the dial assembly high enough so you can get a soldering iron in adequately and minimize the risk of melting the insulation of other wires. Again, I used a couple small bar clamps (one at each end) to support the dial module up and out of the way while working. No clamps? Try using string or thin wire and suspend it from some point above your bench.
7. The glue holding in each lamp is largely dried out by now; the old lamps can be pulled out by their leads. After preparing the leads on the new lamps, they can be inserted from the front or back, I believe. I did not bother to glue the new bulbs in place as they seemed to be adequately snug in their brackets. I always unwind the old lamp lead from the posts. It might be more convenient to clip the leads closer to the bulb and solder the wire ends together, but I always felt this is a less elegant solution than soldering the new leads right to the post. Your call.
8. Make sure you have the proper diameter lamps. See my previous post.
9. Special Note: If you have never removed the face panel before, you may want to take this opportunity to clean the inside of the dial glass before re-assembly. Any glass cleaner should do. CAUTION!: the switch plunger tips on the backside of the face panel are easily broken, and parts very easily lost, particularly the spring. Proceed with extreme caution when cleaning the glass so you don’t endanger these plungers. I broke one recently and my ingenuity was taxed to the limit to repair it due to the tiny size of the parts – don’t count on super glue alone for repair, either. Trust me on this one. (I can describe my repair - but I hope I don't have to!)
9. Once you are done installing the new lamps, reverse the whole process, taking care to run the dial pointer string on its pulleys all the way around the dial assembly before setting the module back in place. The pointer will probably want to fall off the track, so make sure this is placed properly too.
Hope this helps! I'd be interested to hear if the process differs greatly in the 3800 and 3900.
By popular demand, here's what I found works on the 3700:
1. Unplug power, remove case (4 screws)
2. Remove knobs and toggle switch caps (now is a great time to clean them)
3. Remove face panel (2 screws – 1 each top front corners + 2 retainer nuts, 1 on each of power switch and volume control pot). Gently pull panel straight out, CAREFULLY lay aside. SEE CAUTION BELOW in #9.
4. At this point, I recommend using a very small one-hand bar clamp and GENTLY clamp it on the main tuning capacitor pulley to keep the tuning pointer string on/in the proper grooves. If the string is not kept in place somehow, it’s not the end of the world but you’d likely have to mess around to get it back in place properly. Tape might be another option. Suggestion: take pics before you proceed; put that digital camera to work!
5. There are two screws at each end of the "dial assembly module" holding it to the main receiver chassis. These can now be removed.
6. Carefully raise and tilt back the dial assembly module. You should now be able to see the plastic lamp brackets and the circuit boards where the lamp leads connect to their posts (good lighting is particularly important at this point). Support the dial assembly high enough so you can get a soldering iron in adequately and minimize the risk of melting the insulation of other wires. Again, I used a couple small bar clamps (one at each end) to support the dial module up and out of the way while working. No clamps? Try using string or thin wire and suspend it from some point above your bench.
7. The glue holding in each lamp is largely dried out by now; the old lamps can be pulled out by their leads. After preparing the leads on the new lamps, they can be inserted from the front or back, I believe. I did not bother to glue the new bulbs in place as they seemed to be adequately snug in their brackets. I always unwind the old lamp lead from the posts. It might be more convenient to clip the leads closer to the bulb and solder the wire ends together, but I always felt this is a less elegant solution than soldering the new leads right to the post. Your call.
8. Make sure you have the proper diameter lamps. See my previous post.
9. Special Note: If you have never removed the face panel before, you may want to take this opportunity to clean the inside of the dial glass before re-assembly. Any glass cleaner should do. CAUTION!: the switch plunger tips on the backside of the face panel are easily broken, and parts very easily lost, particularly the spring. Proceed with extreme caution when cleaning the glass so you don’t endanger these plungers. I broke one recently and my ingenuity was taxed to the limit to repair it due to the tiny size of the parts – don’t count on super glue alone for repair, either. Trust me on this one. (I can describe my repair - but I hope I don't have to!)
9. Once you are done installing the new lamps, reverse the whole process, taking care to run the dial pointer string on its pulleys all the way around the dial assembly before setting the module back in place. The pointer will probably want to fall off the track, so make sure this is placed properly too.
Hope this helps! I'd be interested to hear if the process differs greatly in the 3800 and 3900.
Harvey/ Ga
Super Member
Hmmmm...If I read much more in this thread I'll be looking to get a Pioneer tuner instead of fixing my old Yamaha CR-820 if the cost is too high.
Just got shot out of the saddle in the last few seconds by a sniper program on a Sx-3800. Should have bid more, but he was probably loaded higher then my poor retired budget.
The snipers also seem to be homing in on the better quality TT's, as I've seen some nearly double in price in the final seconds.
Just got shot out of the saddle in the last few seconds by a sniper program on a Sx-3800. Should have bid more, but he was probably loaded higher then my poor retired budget.
The snipers also seem to be homing in on the better quality TT's, as I've seen some nearly double in price in the final seconds.
PioneerHPMLuver
Well-Known Member
Mark W. said:
Mark and I would most definetly appreciate a scan of the SX-3000...
I still can't believe how great this little receiver sounds. Rivals my SX-980 in every way except pure power!
Arkay
Lunatic Member
Yikes! Just this afternoon I saw an SX-3700 in excellent condition; looked like it was kept behind glass in a cabinet or something. I didn't realize it was vinyl; without any scratches or anything, it actually looked like real wood! I ALMOST grabbed it, but decided to research it first, in case it turned out to be a "dissapointing sounding" purchase I would later regret. At least, that gave me an excuse to walk away, since I had already bought something else today, and have to keep some kind of lid on the amount of gear coming in.
Then I come home and log on here, and what do I see first off? A thread about this exact series! Now you guys have got me wanting to go back and get it tomorrow... Like I need ANOTHER receiver... sigh!
[I know, there is no escape; this stuff is like "crack" sometimes, hard to resist the next "fix".
]
Seriously, I wouldn't mind hearing from those who have this unit, about whether it really does sound that good. I almost got it for its cosmetic condition alone, and am tempted to go back for it (if it is still there).
Then I come home and log on here, and what do I see first off? A thread about this exact series! Now you guys have got me wanting to go back and get it tomorrow... Like I need ANOTHER receiver... sigh!
[I know, there is no escape; this stuff is like "crack" sometimes, hard to resist the next "fix".
]Seriously, I wouldn't mind hearing from those who have this unit, about whether it really does sound that good. I almost got it for its cosmetic condition alone, and am tempted to go back for it (if it is still there).
markallen
Luddite Tendencies
Arkay said:
Believe me, I understand as I know many others here at AK do as well.
Arkay said:
It depends on the price. If the price is right and you later don't want it, you can always unload it on a well known auction site. I believe the SX-3700 is considered a solid, good sounding receiver that will always be in demand. I currently have two 3700s and an SX-820 (black dial version of 3700). Nice units, sound good.
I have an SX3700 in really nice shape. Sound is excellent. I would say cleaner than my SX950 but not as uch oomph in the bass. Although the bass is nice and punchy and sounds great with loudness on. Nice tuner. Not as good as the SX-950 though.
My unit's digital FM display doesn't work. Getting close to fixing it with Markthefixer's help.
My unit's digital FM display doesn't work. Getting close to fixing it with Markthefixer's help.
ekmanning5
Time has told me...
I've had an SX-3700 for about 3 or 4 years now. It's been kind of tucked away in an old stereo cabinet in my office down in the basement. I use it as the receiver for the system I do my vinyl to CD downloads with my computer. I haven't cleaned it since I got it and the volume was all staticy. So I decided to work on it last night. Man, this is one beautiful receiver! Used some Deoxit on the volume problem and it sounds great. I think I am going to put this one upstairs in the Family Room and bring the SX-737 down here. I would definately recommend this unit.
Greg B.
AK Donor
markallen said:
Reviving this thread because I've been doing some research thanks to the manuals scan site. My SX-3800 does, it turns out, need a new lamp for the quartz lock indicator. In looking into what was needed before I ordered from dgwojo, I remembered that my SX-3600 that I bought new in 1981 or 82, had its FM indicator quit on me after a couple of years, so I thought I'd order the appropriate replacement from him for that too.
Guess what I found? While the higher end of the line used normal lamps for such things, the 3600 used an array of LEDs according to the manual. There is a 2-gang array for the A/B speaker indicators and a 4-gang array for the AM/FM/Phono/Aux indicators. According to the service manual these were available only as an assembly and not individual LEDs,
Unless someone can advise to the contrary, I'm assuming the only way to repair it is to find a working assembly from a parts unit. Without actually having the thing in front of me I don't know how easy it would be to find the right type of LED and then somehow connect it properly.
