SX-626 Recap Project

T

TimmahTao

AK Member
I posted a few weeks ago about a Pioneer SX-1010 that needed a recap and was given the impression that it was too big of a first project.

Another AudioKarma member has suggested that he might be able to take on the project, so hopefully once he gets me a quote, I can move on that and get it restored to it's full glory. Lucky for me, he's semi-local, so shipping will be cheap. Any tips regarding packaging would be appreciated. All in all, I'm willing spend some money and have it fixed right.

In the meantime, I would still like to learn how to do these repairs myself. My father offered me a old SX-626 that has been kicking around the attic. Would recapping and replacing the transistors on this model be a better start for a novice?

Here is the BOM listed in the Pioneer sticky:
Uncle Bambi said:
At first it was scratchy and didn't have any output on the left side, but De-Oxit fixed all of that. Since the lights pulse with the music (weak main filter cap?) and it has a few bulging caps as well as a handful of the light blue Sanyo caps, I decided to give it a re-cap and restore it to full health. I notice on the schematics that there are a pair of 725 transistors in there, so I'll be replacing them too.

A couple of questions -

1) any other "problem" transistors that I should replace will I'm tearing into it? I see some 2sc497, 2sa497, 2sc732, 2sc945, 2sc983, 2sa1312, and 2sc1344 transistors scattered about, as well as the output 2sc793's and the power supply d313's. I'm inclined to leave them all alone (save the 2sa725's, those are getting replaced)), unless you guys think some of the others might be problem children.

2) I'm going to re-cap the tuner, as many of the caps are light blue Sanyo's. Interesting anomaly, though - the SM shows the tuner board as an AWE-031, but my tuner is an AWE-011. I cannot find any schematics or other documentation for this board...... can anyone point me in the right direction?

Below is my parts list (sans transistors), in case anyone is interested. I'll be replacing the 2sa725's with ksa992's, and have the replacements already doped out for the other transistors if someone thinks it would be wise to replace them, too..

equalizer amp
W21-004 C1 10 16 CEA 10 25 647-UPW1E100MDD6
W21-004 C2 10 16 CEA 10 25 647-UPW1E100MDD6
W21-004 C7 0.47 25 CSSA 0.47 50 667-ECQ-V1H474JLW
W21-004 C8 0.47 25 CSSA 0.47 50 667-ECQ-V1H474JLW
W21-004 C9 3.3 25 CEA 3.3 50 647-UKL1H3R3MDD1TA
W21-004 C10 3.3 25 CEA 3.3 50 647-UKL1H3R3MDD1TA
W21-004 C15 100 35 CEA 100 50 647-UPW1H101MPD
W21-004 C16 100 35 CEA 100 50 647-UPW1H101MPD

control amp
AWG-008 C3 47 50 CEA 47 50 647-UPW1HR47MDD
AWG-008 C4 47 50 CEA 47 50 647-UPW1HR47MDD
AWG-008 C7 47 6 CEA 47 50 647-UPW1HR47MDD
AWG-008 C8 47 6 CEA 47 50 647-UPW1HR47MDD
AWG-008 C11 4.7 25 CEA 4.7 50 647-UPW1H4R7MDD
AWG-008 C12 4.7 25 CEA 4.7 50 647-UPW1H4R7MDD
AWG-008 C19 10 25 CEA 10 25 647-UPW1E100MDD6
AWG-008 C20 10 25 CEA 10 25 647-UPW1E100MDD6
AWG-008 C23 100 6 CEA 100 50 647-UPW1H101MPD
AWG-008 C24 100 6 CEA 100 50 647-UPW1H101MPD
AWG-008 C25 47 50 CEA 47 50 647-UPW1HR47MDD
AWG-008 C26 47 50 CEA 47 50 647-UPW1HR47MDD
AWG-008 C27 2.2 25 CSSA 2.2 50 647-UKL1H2R2MDDANA
AWG-008 C28 2.2 25 CSSA 2.2 50 647-UKL1H2R2MDDANA

power amp
AWH-002 C1 3.3 10 CEA 3.3 50 647-UKL1H3R3MDD1TA
AWH-002 C2 3.3 10 CEA 3.3 50 647-UKL1H3R3MDD1TA
AWH-002 C3 100 50 CEA 100 50 647-UPW1H101MPD
AWH-002 C4 100 50 CEA 100 50 647-UPW1H101MPD
AWH-002 C5 3.3 25 CEA 3.3 50 647-UKL1H3R3MDD1TA
AWH-002 C6 3.3 25 CEA 3.3 50 647-UKL1H3R3MDD1TA
AWH-002 C7 100 50 CEA 100 50 647-UPW1H101MPD
AWH-002 C8 100 50 CEA 100 50 647-UPW1H101MPD
AWH-002 C11 100 6 CEA 100 50 647-UPW1H101MPD
AWH-002 C12 100 6 CEA 100 50 647-UPW1H101MPD
AWH-002 C13 2200 25 ACH-004 2200 35 UPW1V222MHD
AWH-002 C14 2200 25 ACH-004 2200 35 UPW1V222MHD
AWH-002 C21 100 50 CEA 100 50 647-UPW1H101MPD

power supply
AWR-006 C5 100 35 CEA 100 50 647-UPW1H101MPD
AWR-006 C9 330 25 CEA 330 50 647-UPW1H331MPD6
AWR-006 C10 330 25 CEA 330 50 647-UPW1H331MPD6
AWR-006 C12 100 16 CEA 100 50 647-UPW1H101MPD

tuner
AWE-011 C23 4.7 25 CEA 4.7 50 647-UPW1H4R7MDD
AWE-011 C27 1 50 CEA 1 50 UKL1H010MDDANATD
AWE-011 C29 4.7 25 CEA 4.7 50 647-UPW1H4R7MDD
AWE-011 C30 1 50 CEA 1 50 UKL1H010MDDANATD
AWE-011 C33 100 16 CEA 100 50 647-UKL1H3R3MDD1TA
AWE-011 C36 10 16 CEA 10 25 647-UPW1E100MDD6
AWE-011 C38 0.47 50 CEA 0.47 50 667-ECQ-V1H474JLW
AWE-011 C45 10 16 CEA 10 25 647-UPW1E100MDD6
AWE-011 C53 0.47 25 CSSA 0.47 50 667-ECQ-V1H474JLW
AWE-011 C54 4.7 25 CEA 4.7 50 647-UPW1H4R7MDD
AWE-011 C55 3.3 16 CSSA 100 50 647-UKL1H3R3MDD1TA
AWE-011 C57 3.3 16 CSSA 100 50 647-UKL1H3R3MDD1TA
AWE-011 C58 1 50 CEA 1 50 UKL1H010MDDANATD
AWE-011 C61 0.47 50 CEA 0.47 50 667-ECQ-V1H474JLW
AWE-011 C65 100 16 CEA 100 50 647-UKL1H3R3MDD1TA
AWE-011 C66 2.2 16 CSSA 2.2 50 647-UKL1H2R2MDDANA
AWE-011 C67 2.2 16 CSSA 2.2 50 647-UKL1H2R2MDDANA
AWE-011 C73 47 16 CEA 47 50 647-UPW1HR47MDD


main power cap 3300 63v 6800 63 647-LLS1J682MELC
Click to expand...

He mentions not listing the transistors. Can you guys help me update this list including the transistors that will need to be replaced? I've been practicing my soldering and its getting easier, so I'm looking forward to getting my hands dirty!

The receiver is getting brought to my location in about two weeks, so I'll be able to get any pictures requested then, in case there are multiple board variants.
 
He lists tuner caps.

I looked at the tuner, and at a short glance, as long as YOU DO NOT HAVE TO MOVE THE BOARD TO ACCESS THE SOLDER SIDE, you should not badly disturb the alignment replacing them.

As for transistors, just two, a pair of 2sa725's ( > ksa992) in the AWG-008 control amp assembly, although 6 more ksc1845's could go into the control amp(2) and w21-004 equalizer(4) amp as an additional reliability measure...

No others are notorious troublemakers.
 
markthefixer said:
He lists tuner caps.

I looked at the tuner, and at a short glance, as long as YOU DO NOT HAVE TO MOVE THE BOARD TO ACCESS THE SOLDER SIDE, you should not badly disturb the alignment replacing them.

As for transistors, just two, a pair of 2sa725's ( > ksa992) in the AWG-008 control amp assembly, although 6 more ksc1845's could go into the control amp(2) and w21-004 equalizer(4) amp as an additional reliability measure...

No others are notorious troublemakers.
Click to expand...

Okay, if the tuner is working, I won't fuss with that.

So add to my BOM:

Control Amp
2 KSA992 transistors
2 KSC1845

Equalizer Amp
4 KSC1845

I seem to recall reading that the legs of new transistors go in a different order or orientation than the old ones. How can I tell? Also, which replacement transistors go in which positions?

Finally, the boards are connected by wires very tightly wound around posts. How are these best removed? Do I snip the wires? Unwrap the posts? What is the best way to reconnect them?
 
Do not mess with the wires. Leave the connections in tack. You should be able to gain access to all boards by loosening any wire harness supports. A nice receiver to start on. Yea it would be nice to have the board disconnected and easily worked on but in the long run no time is saved and in fact it makes much more work out of the project disconnecting the wires. Then you lose the OEM look. Not to mention the technical issues regarding the wire wrap connection.
 
zebulon1 said:
Do not mess with the wires. Leave the connections in tack. You should be able to gain access to all boards by loosening any wire harness supports. A nice receiver to start on. Yea it would be nice to have the board disconnected and easily worked on but in the long run no time is saved and in fact it makes much more work out of the project disconnecting the wires. Then you lose the OEM look. Not to mention the technical issues regarding the wire wrap connection.
Click to expand...

Is this true for all the Pioneer receivers? How much slack will it give me.

Also, does anyone have recommendations regarding what type/size of tip I should use on my soldering station for this type of work? I currently have the standard small chisel tip. What temperature should I set it to? I have a Hakko FX-888D.
 
This is the BOM I am putting into Mouser:
647-LLS1J682MELC 1
647-UPW1H331MPD6 2
UPW1V222MHD 2
ksa992 2
UKL1H010MDDANATD 3
647-UKL1H2R2MDDANA 4
647-UPW1H4R7MDD 5
667-ECQ-V1H474JLW 5
647-UPW1E100MDD6 6
ksc1845 6
647-UPW1HR47MDD 7
647-UKL1H3R3MDD1TA 10
647-UPW1H101MPD 13​

Can anybody check it for me?

There are three different options for the KSA992 transistors: KSA992FATA, KSA992FBU, and KSA992FTA

What is the difference?
 
I was reading a recap thread by spence0nasty. He has the following to say about the parts list I posted:
In the control amp the P/N for all six of the 47uF caps is wrong, it should be 647-UPW1H470MED. The P/N they list is for a 0.47uF cap which made me have to wait a week on 6 caps before I could finish the job.​
Can anybody confirm that he is correct for me, so the BOM for the 626 can be updated?

Here is the link to the thread:
http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=607606
 
Any KSA992 is fine. The suffix is the packaging options. Check when ordering that you can buy one at a time. Some options require a min order of a 1000 or more.

Order a pointy solder tip:
Amazon?

188C/370F degrees to melt the 60/40 or so solder. For a start, set the station around 380F then play with it adjusting to find the sweet spot.
 
Last edited:
Okay, so based on what I posted earlier, there is a typo in the Stickied Part list. The part number for the 47uf caps listed was incorrect. The correct part number is 647-UPW1H470MED. What was listed previous was the part number for .47uf caps.

Here is the updated list and BOM, if you would be so kind as to double check:
equalizer amp
W21-004 C1 10 16 CEA 10 25 647-UPW1E100MDD6
W21-004 C2 10 16 CEA 10 25 647-UPW1E100MDD6
W21-004 C7 0.47 25 CSSA 0.47 50 667-ECQ-V1H474JLW
W21-004 C8 0.47 25 CSSA 0.47 50 667-ECQ-V1H474JLW
W21-004 C9 3.3 25 CEA 3.3 50 647-UKL1H3R3MDD1TA
W21-004 C10 3.3 25 CEA 3.3 50 647-UKL1H3R3MDD1TA
W21-004 C15 100 35 CEA 100 50 647-UPW1H101MPD
W21-004 C16 100 35 CEA 100 50 647-UPW1H101MPD

control amp
AWG-008 C3 47 50 CEA 47 50 647-UPW1H470MED
AWG-008 C4 47 50 CEA 47 50 647-UPW1H470MED
AWG-008 C7 47 6 CEA 47 50 647-UPW1H470MED
AWG-008 C8 47 6 CEA 47 50 647-UPW1H470MED
AWG-008 C11 4.7 25 CEA 4.7 50 647-UPW1H4R7MDD
AWG-008 C12 4.7 25 CEA 4.7 50 647-UPW1H4R7MDD
AWG-008 C19 10 25 CEA 10 25 647-UPW1E100MDD6
AWG-008 C20 10 25 CEA 10 25 647-UPW1E100MDD6
AWG-008 C23 100 6 CEA 100 50 647-UPW1H101MPD
AWG-008 C24 100 6 CEA 100 50 647-UPW1H101MPD
AWG-008 C25 47 50 CEA 47 50 647-UPW1H470MED
AWG-008 C26 47 50 CEA 47 50 647-UPW1H470MED
AWG-008 C27 2.2 25 CSSA 2.2 50 647-UKL1H2R2MDDANA
AWG-008 C28 2.2 25 CSSA 2.2 50 647-UKL1H2R2MDDANA

power amp
AWH-002 C1 3.3 10 CEA 3.3 50 647-UKL1H3R3MDD1TA
AWH-002 C2 3.3 10 CEA 3.3 50 647-UKL1H3R3MDD1TA
AWH-002 C3 100 50 CEA 100 50 647-UPW1H101MPD
AWH-002 C4 100 50 CEA 100 50 647-UPW1H101MPD
AWH-002 C5 3.3 25 CEA 3.3 50 647-UKL1H3R3MDD1TA
AWH-002 C6 3.3 25 CEA 3.3 50 647-UKL1H3R3MDD1TA
AWH-002 C7 100 50 CEA 100 50 647-UPW1H101MPD
AWH-002 C8 100 50 CEA 100 50 647-UPW1H101MPD
AWH-002 C11 100 6 CEA 100 50 647-UPW1H101MPD
AWH-002 C12 100 6 CEA 100 50 647-UPW1H101MPD
AWH-002 C13 2200 25 ACH-004 2200 35 UPW1V222MHD
AWH-002 C14 2200 25 ACH-004 2200 35 UPW1V222MHD
AWH-002 C21 100 50 CEA 100 50 647-UPW1H101MPD

power supply
AWR-006 C5 100 35 CEA 100 50 647-UPW1H101MPD
AWR-006 C9 330 25 CEA 330 50 647-UPW1H331MPD6
AWR-006 C10 330 25 CEA 330 50 647-UPW1H331MPD6
AWR-006 C12 100 16 CEA 100 50 647-UPW1H101MPD

tuner
AWE-011 C23 4.7 25 CEA 4.7 50 647-UPW1H4R7MDD
AWE-011 C27 1 50 CEA 1 50 UKL1H010MDDANATD
AWE-011 C29 4.7 25 CEA 4.7 50 647-UPW1H4R7MDD
AWE-011 C30 1 50 CEA 1 50 UKL1H010MDDANATD
AWE-011 C33 100 16 CEA 100 50 647-UKL1H3R3MDD1TA
AWE-011 C36 10 16 CEA 10 25 647-UPW1E100MDD6
AWE-011 C38 0.47 50 CEA 0.47 50 667-ECQ-V1H474JLW
AWE-011 C45 10 16 CEA 10 25 647-UPW1E100MDD6
AWE-011 C53 0.47 25 CSSA 0.47 50 667-ECQ-V1H474JLW
AWE-011 C54 4.7 25 CEA 4.7 50 647-UPW1H4R7MDD
AWE-011 C55 3.3 16 CSSA 100 50 647-UKL1H3R3MDD1TA
AWE-011 C57 3.3 16 CSSA 100 50 647-UKL1H3R3MDD1TA
AWE-011 C58 1 50 CEA 1 50 UKL1H010MDDANATD
AWE-011 C61 0.47 50 CEA 0.47 50 667-ECQ-V1H474JLW
AWE-011 C65 100 16 CEA 100 50 647-UKL1H3R3MDD1TA
AWE-011 C66 2.2 16 CSSA 2.2 50 647-UKL1H2R2MDDANA
AWE-011 C67 2.2 16 CSSA 2.2 50 647-UKL1H2R2MDDANA
AWE-011 C73 47 16 CEA 47 50 647-UPW1H470MED


main power cap 3300 63v 6800 63 647-LLS1J682MELC​

BOM:
647-LLS1J682MELC 1
647-UPW1H331MPD6 2
UPW1V222MHD 2
ksa992 2
UKL1H010MDDANATD 3
647-UKL1H2R2MDDANA 4
647-UPW1H4R7MDD 5
667-ECQ-V1H474JLW 5
647-UPW1E100MDD6 6
ksc1845 6
647-UPW1H470MED 7
647-UKL1H3R3MDD1TA 10
647-UPW1H101MPD 13​

In the part list, what is the difference between these two?
AWG-008 C4 47 50 CEA 47 50 647-UPW1H470MED
AWG-008 C7 47 6 CEA 47 50 647-UPW1H470MED

One is 50, one is 6? What do those particular numbers mean?
 
yes, the 647-UPW1HR47MDD (0.47 / 50) should be 647-UPW1H470MED (47 / 50)
please provide a link to the bad list if it's not by Uncle Bambi so that it's originator can correct the 47 /0.47 error. Once YOUR list goes in ok, YOU could post YOUR list at the end of that thread...

read my post(s) about installing replacement transistors: http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showpost.php?p=8235190&postcount=41

The parts list format mouser accepts is either 1 component per line and it does the totaling, or use a | character followed by a quantity. NO spaces thus: mouserpartnumber|10

50 versus 6 is the voltage rating of the component.
many factors could have caused the substitution:
beefing up the component for various reasons
stocking level (availability) of the substitute part
COST of the parts and hitting a "sweet spot"
 
markthefixer said:
yes, the 647-UPW1HR47MDD (0.47 / 50) should be 647-UPW1H470MED (47 / 50)
please provide a link to the bad list if it's not by Uncle Bambi so that it's originator can correct the 47 /0.47 error. Once YOUR list goes in ok, YOU could post YOUR list at the end of that thread...

read my post(s) about installing replacement transistors: http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showpost.php?p=8235190&postcount=41

The parts list format mouser accepts is either 1 component per line and it does the totaling, or use a | character followed by a quantity. NO spaces thus: mouserpartnumber|10

50 versus 6 is the voltage rating of the component.
many factors could have caused the substitution:
beefing up the component for various reasons
stocking level (availability) of the substitute part
COST of the parts and hitting a "sweet spot"
Click to expand...

The list in the Sticky is Uncle Bambi's version, so that is what had the error in it. I'll post the updated list once I give it a try.

Nice. That transistor post is exactly what I needed.

So basically when replacing capacitors, you can upgrade the voltage rating? They'll have the same capacity but just be able to handle higher bursts of voltage?
 
Yes, there are some range recommendations, of which I have seen them violated by major manufacturers of test equipment. Tektronix runs their power supply caps at half of rated voltage.

The only penalty of using higher voltage caps is generally size and cost. Of course using a 500 volt electrolytic cap in a 20 volt circuit MIGHT have some effect upon the capacitance.

In the past caps might have had a 15% over voltage rating that was generous (18% or more) but today 10% IS TEN percent.
And in places where wandering power line transients can pump up the voltage, (like before a regulator - RAW DC) it is prudent to reexamine the parts ratings.

I also look at fault conditions, 16v cap that can see 35v under a fault? It gets the next step up, to 50...

Then there's price and availability....

and if the cap with lower voltage FITS into the same, minimum sized can, there is NO penalty, and sometimes even the manufacturers don't OFFER the lower voltages at all.
Like a 1uf Nichicon UPW cap - the LOWEST voltage rating IS 50 volts... :D
 
markthefixer said:
He lists tuner caps.

6 more ksc1845's could go into the control amp(2) and w21-004 equalizer(4) amp as an additional reliability measure...
Click to expand...

Just to clarify, which transistors in what positions should the KSC1845s replace.

My assumption is in the control amp that they replace the 2SC1344s/2SC1312s at q5 and q6. In the equalizer amp, they replace all four of the 2SC1344s/2SC1312s at positions q1,2,3,4?

Can anyone confirm?
 
On the 992's the "F" is the gain rating (hFe) the other letters are for packaging (BU=Bulk, TA=Ammo pack Tape, ATA = Ammo pack Tape)

The 1845's replace the 1344/1312's on both boards.
 
TimmahTao said:
I posted a few weeks ago about a Pioneer SX-1010 that needed a recap and was given the impression that it was too big of a first project.

Another AudioKarma member has suggested that he might be able to take on the project, so hopefully once he gets me a quote, I can move on that and get it restored to it's full glory. Lucky for me, he's semi-local, so shipping will be cheap. Any tips regarding packaging would be appreciated. All in all, I'm willing spend some money and have it fixed right.
Click to expand...

Here's a link to how I did mine when I shipped to the new owner back in 2012. The 1010's Power supply is on the bottom TOO DAMNED CLOSE to the panel and with the panels flexibility, it can contact the board, and you'll end up with a broken board and lot's of itty-bitty pieces all over inside. If you're within 200 miles, I'd recommend just wrapping it up in blankets, and a box in the back seat of your car (seat belted) and deliver it and pick it up. Probably cheaper than shipping a 1010. 60#'s gets upwards of $75-$90 real quick. And with all the fuel surcharges the shipping Co's are adding it's cheaper just to drive it in.

http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=439711

Larry
 
larryderouin said:
Here's a link to how I did mine when I shipped to the new owner back in 2012. The 1010's Power supply is on the bottom TOO DAMNED CLOSE to the panel and with the panels flexibility, it can contact the board, and you'll end up with a broken board and lot's of itty-bitty pieces all over inside. If you're within 200 miles, I'd recommend just wrapping it up in blankets, and a box in the back seat of your car (seat belted) and deliver it and pick it up. Probably cheaper than shipping a 1010. 60#'s gets upwards of $75-$90 real quick. And with all the fuel surcharges the shipping Co's are adding it's cheaper just to drive it in.

http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=439711

Larry
Click to expand...

Yeah, seeing as the thing already has a dent in the transformer, I opted to drive the hour and a half to drop off the SX1010 in person with TSD71.

I'll be starting this thread up with pics sometimes next week, after I pick up the 626.
 
TimmahTao said:
Awesome! The 1010 thread I started in is here: http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=628538

Feel free to share your progress with the community, if you want!
Click to expand...

Hey all, got some pictures of the SX-626. Here's the album:
http://imgur.com/a/5GM53

It's a nice looking amp, but has obviously been in storage for quite a while.

Opening it up found some dust and a missing ground connection/capacitor at +B2 on the main amp unit, AWH-002. Found it rattling round the case and reconnected it to the same screw in ground attachment as the ground/cap at +B1.

What heat setting should I use when connecting wire to a larger piece of metal, like a chassis ground? It took quite a while to get the piece hot enough to adhere to the solder....

Passed a dim bulb test, so I hooked it up the pre-amp through my current amplifier. Tuner works and seems to be close to accurate. Couple of tuner lights out. Other inputs work as well, as do the EQ controls.

When amp is connected with speakers, sound only comes out the right channel, although I can hear a faint signal on the left. When I jiggle the Stereo/Mono button, it will pop in and out.

I assume that my first step is to deoxit the hell out of all the buttons, but after that, I need a few things:

1.) Where do I get replacement bulbs for the tuner face?
2.) Can someone confirm what version of the amp I have and double check the BOM I posted?

equalizer amp
W21-004 C1 10 16 CEA 10 25 647-UPW1E100MDD6
W21-004 C2 10 16 CEA 10 25 647-UPW1E100MDD6
W21-004 C7 0.47 25 CSSA 0.47 50 667-ECQ-V1H474JLW
W21-004 C8 0.47 25 CSSA 0.47 50 667-ECQ-V1H474JLW
W21-004 C9 3.3 25 CEA 3.3 50 647-UKL1H3R3MDD1TA
W21-004 C10 3.3 25 CEA 3.3 50 647-UKL1H3R3MDD1TA
W21-004 C15 100 35 CEA 100 50 647-UPW1H101MPD
W21-004 C16 100 35 CEA 100 50 647-UPW1H101MPD

control amp
AWG-008 C3 47 50 CEA 47 50 647-UPW1H470MED
AWG-008 C4 47 50 CEA 47 50 647-UPW1H470MED
AWG-008 C7 47 6 CEA 47 50 647-UPW1H470MED
AWG-008 C8 47 6 CEA 47 50 647-UPW1H470MED
AWG-008 C11 4.7 25 CEA 4.7 50 647-UPW1H4R7MDD
AWG-008 C12 4.7 25 CEA 4.7 50 647-UPW1H4R7MDD
AWG-008 C19 10 25 CEA 10 25 647-UPW1E100MDD6
AWG-008 C20 10 25 CEA 10 25 647-UPW1E100MDD6
AWG-008 C23 100 6 CEA 100 50 647-UPW1H101MPD
AWG-008 C24 100 6 CEA 100 50 647-UPW1H101MPD
AWG-008 C25 47 50 CEA 47 50 647-UPW1H470MED
AWG-008 C26 47 50 CEA 47 50 647-UPW1H470MED
AWG-008 C27 2.2 25 CSSA 2.2 50 647-UKL1H2R2MDDANA
AWG-008 C28 2.2 25 CSSA 2.2 50 647-UKL1H2R2MDDANA

power amp
AWH-002 C1 3.3 10 CEA 3.3 50 647-UKL1H3R3MDD1TA
AWH-002 C2 3.3 10 CEA 3.3 50 647-UKL1H3R3MDD1TA
AWH-002 C3 100 50 CEA 100 50 647-UPW1H101MPD
AWH-002 C4 100 50 CEA 100 50 647-UPW1H101MPD
AWH-002 C5 3.3 25 CEA 3.3 50 647-UKL1H3R3MDD1TA
AWH-002 C6 3.3 25 CEA 3.3 50 647-UKL1H3R3MDD1TA
AWH-002 C7 100 50 CEA 100 50 647-UPW1H101MPD
AWH-002 C8 100 50 CEA 100 50 647-UPW1H101MPD
AWH-002 C11 100 6 CEA 100 50 647-UPW1H101MPD
AWH-002 C12 100 6 CEA 100 50 647-UPW1H101MPD
AWH-002 C13 2200 25 ACH-004 2200 35 UPW1V222MHD
AWH-002 C14 2200 25 ACH-004 2200 35 UPW1V222MHD
AWH-002 C21 100 50 CEA 100 50 647-UPW1H101MPD

power supply
AWR-006 C5 100 35 CEA 100 50 647-UPW1H101MPD
AWR-006 C9 330 25 CEA 330 50 647-UPW1H331MPD6
AWR-006 C10 330 25 CEA 330 50 647-UPW1H331MPD6
AWR-006 C12 100 16 CEA 100 50 647-UPW1H101MPD

tuner
AWE-011 C23 4.7 25 CEA 4.7 50 647-UPW1H4R7MDD
AWE-011 C27 1 50 CEA 1 50 UKL1H010MDDANATD
AWE-011 C29 4.7 25 CEA 4.7 50 647-UPW1H4R7MDD
AWE-011 C30 1 50 CEA 1 50 UKL1H010MDDANATD
AWE-011 C33 100 16 CEA 100 50 647-UKL1H3R3MDD1TA
AWE-011 C36 10 16 CEA 10 25 647-UPW1E100MDD6
AWE-011 C38 0.47 50 CEA 0.47 50 667-ECQ-V1H474JLW
AWE-011 C45 10 16 CEA 10 25 647-UPW1E100MDD6
AWE-011 C53 0.47 25 CSSA 0.47 50 667-ECQ-V1H474JLW
AWE-011 C54 4.7 25 CEA 4.7 50 647-UPW1H4R7MDD
AWE-011 C55 3.3 16 CSSA 100 50 647-UKL1H3R3MDD1TA
AWE-011 C57 3.3 16 CSSA 100 50 647-UKL1H3R3MDD1TA
AWE-011 C58 1 50 CEA 1 50 UKL1H010MDDANATD
AWE-011 C61 0.47 50 CEA 0.47 50 667-ECQ-V1H474JLW
AWE-011 C65 100 16 CEA 100 50 647-UKL1H3R3MDD1TA
AWE-011 C66 2.2 16 CSSA 2.2 50 647-UKL1H2R2MDDANA
AWE-011 C67 2.2 16 CSSA 2.2 50 647-UKL1H2R2MDDANA
AWE-011 C73 47 16 CEA 47 50 647-UPW1H470MED


main power cap 3300 63v 6800 63 647-LLS1J682MELC
BOM:
647-LLS1J682MELC 1
647-UPW1H331MPD6 2
UPW1V222MHD 2
ksa992 2
UKL1H010MDDANATD 3
647-UKL1H2R2MDDANA 4
647-UPW1H4R7MDD 5
667-ECQ-V1H474JLW 5
647-UPW1E100MDD6 6
ksc1845 6
647-UPW1H470MED 7
647-UKL1H3R3MDD1TA 10
647-UPW1H101MPD 13​

Thanks.
 
Pull the antenna back away from the chassis. on the "PIONEER ID Plate" is a serial #. If it's higher numerically than shown on the image below, use the 1973 manual. Your's has the Round RED STICKER with "FW" which is one of the identifiers for the 1973 manual.

attachment.php


Match the BOARD numbers with the manual. This and the serial # will definatively identify it one way or the other.

The Fuse type lamps (8V, 250ma) can be ordered from AK'er dgwojo. www.dgwojo.com. He's the LAMP GURU.

These 4 I'd change to FILM unless there are space considerations.
AWG-008 C27 2.2 25 CSSA 2.2 50 647-UKL1H2R2MDDANA
AWG-008 C28 2.2 25 CSSA 2.2 50 647-UKL1H2R2MDDANA
AWE-011 C66 2.2 16 CSSA 2.2 50 647-UKL1H2R2MDDANA
AWE-011 C67 2.2 16 CSSA 2.2 50 647-UKL1H2R2MDDANA
with this ECQ FILM CAP.
667-ECQ-V1H225JL
 

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