SX-650 that took one on the chin . . .

Discussion in 'Pioneer Audio' started by watt, Jan 8, 2019.

  1. watt

    watt no on

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    or the tuning knob, or the source selector.

    IMG_1599.JPG

    Straight from the Goodwill Buy-the-Pound. So while I could complain about the damage, it's likely that that's why it was in one of the bins for me to find.

    The good news is that it powers up and seems to function well so far. The bad is that it needs new glass, a new source selector (there's no saving that shaft, I'm afraid), and I need to straighten the shaft for the tuning knob. Oh, and a knob for the source selector. And the vinyl wrap is peeling in some places. (This feels a little like the scene in Ghostbusters where Dan Aykroyd starts listing all of the mechanical problems with Ecto 1.)

    Do I need a project? Not really. But I'd like to shape it up a little in the name of preservation and "fun."
     
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  2. watt

    watt no on

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    I downloaded the service manual and started assessing things this morning. Removed the top and bottom covers and the front panel. Straightened--as close as I could get it--the tuning shaft.

    I've already benefitted a lot from the many threads on this particular model. It's also nice to have a recap list at hand. Thanks AK!

    Before I get there, though, I have two questions:
    • What's the best way to access the various boards to recap them? I started imagining it while looking at the interior, just to mentally map things out a bit, and I wonder about the easiest way to do it. Seems like I'm on a pretty well traveled path here, so I thought that people might have some tips.
    • Is my only source for a selector switch a donor unit (or a part taken from one)?
     
  3. zebulon1

    zebulon1 Building a new bench. Finally! Subscriber

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    Last edited: Jan 9, 2019
  4. Watthour

    Watthour Electron Rancher - JS3600

    The glass with a hole should be around $20-25, and most local glass shops can do it within a few days, depending upon workload.

    The SX-#50 series knob should be around $10-15 from some of those popular on-line places.

    The shaft is a different story, and as Zeb pointed out, it just might straighten. Aluminum begins to anneal at about 700°F in some of its alloys. Remarkably, that's pretty close to the temperature of some soldering equipment, and heating to that level might make it respond to pressure a little better and not just tear/crack away - Provided the metal is moved gradually.
     
  5. watt

    watt no on

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    Thanks, Zeb, for pointing me to that post. It's a really creative solution. After doing a search, I found a thread in which RS Steve drilled and tapped a hole to accept a screw that he taped up to accept a knob. I might give that a shot.
     
  6. watt

    watt no on

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    Location:
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    I've used a glass place near here for windshield repairs and noticed that they do other small jobs as well. I'll give them a try for the glass.

    Unfortunately, even going slowly with the selector switch snapped off what was left. Whatever did the damage originally took off half of the shaft, so there wasn't much to work with. Hey, if no donor switch materializes (and the tapping solution doesn't work), maybe I'll just set it to Aux and forget it. :)
     

     

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  7. Aaron99

    Aaron99 AK Subscriber Subscriber

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    I can help. PM me.
     
  8. watt

    watt no on

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    Thanks! PMed.
     
  9. watt

    watt no on

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    Bookmarking for reference. This thread has some good detail on an SX-650 restoration.
     
  10. watt

    watt no on

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    Location:
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    Minor update: I tapped the existing selector switch and filed some notches in a cap head socket screw. Those notches grab the plastic knob insert. It works well enough, especially since I don't anticipate switching sources frequently.

    Also cut some Lexan that I have on hand in lieu of glass. Figured that if I don't like the Lexan after awhile, I can detach and take it to the glass place as a pattern.

    Next up: order some caps. And eventually start in on my first veneer job.

    IMG_1611.JPG
     
  11. watt

    watt no on

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    Location:
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    I've read in other SX 650 threads that it's possible to replace most components without removing the boards completely.

    Has anyone done it that way? I'd like not dealing with the wire wrap if I don't have to.
     

     

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