TA-600 Service Bulletin -- Early Version

dcgillespie

Fisher SA-100 Clone
Subscriber
I had an occasion to spend some time under the deck of one of these beauties, and during the course of my work, determined a number of service points for TA-600 owners to be aware of with their units. While these all relate to the early (7199 driver tube) version, the last point may follow through to later versions as well. These include:

1. Power Supply Dropping Resistor (R19):
Early versions of this receiver specify a 140 Ohm 10 watt device for this component, while later versions used two 280 Ohm 7 watt resistors in parallel to produce a 14 watt rating of the same resistance value. This resistor however dissipates nearly 10 watts under quiescent conditions, leaving zero safety factor in the early units. The safety factor in later units is still marginal when the under hood temps are taken into account. For dependable long term service and extended operation, R19 should be replaced with a 150 Ohm 20 watt device, either as a single resistor, or as two 300 Ohm 10 watt devices in parallel.

2. Lead Dress to Power Supply Resistors R19 and R26:
Early versions used the right two terminals (furthest from the power transformer) on the T-strip containing the NFB components for the Channel A driver tube (V20) to accommodate both R19 & R26. Besides placing about 420 vdc on a terminal that is right next door to a terminal connected to the Channel A 16 Ohm output tap, this allows power supply noise to creep into the cathode circuit of Channel A, via moisture than can contaminate the bakelite material of the T-strip over time. All wiring should be disconnected from these two terminals, and then the terminals should be cut off from the T-strip. Then, a new separate two terminal T-strip should be mounted via the OPT mounting screws to facilitate the two needed terminals. This breaks the noise connection by way of using two separate strips, and adds a significant safety factor to the OPT and any speakers connected to Channel A as well.

Additionally, there are two wires connected to these resistors; one coming from pin #8 of the GZ34 (V11), and one from C37A. As built by Fisher in the early versions, these two wires ran up along the two can caps to the fold in the chassis, made a right turn coming close to pin #7 of V20 (Channel A driver tube), which represents the input to the Channel A power amplifier section, extending down the chassis fold to the appropriate T-strip terminals for R19 and R26. Since these two wires carry significant voltage and ripple currents, their close proximity to V20 adds significant noise to Channel A at any volume control setting above minimum. These wires should be re-routed along the rear of the chassis before extending up to meet their appropriate T-strip terminal points. This revision will make a significant reduction in Channel A hum levels.

3. 7199 Driver Tubes:
Using popular adapters to allow the use of alternate tubes for the driver positions in this unit will typically cause two problems:

A. Notably Increase Quiescent Hum Levels: With the high Gm output tubes employed in this unit, coupled with the high gain of the pentode section of the driver tube, any hum voltages leaking through the heater cathode insulation in the pentode section of these tubes will be sufficiently amplified and become notable in the output as hum. The 7199 is specifically designed to minimize noise via this path, where as the popular alternatives that can be used in this unit with adapters are not. For the blackest background noise levels, 7199 tubes are the tube of choice for this unit.

B. Scratchy Volume Control: Even in their earliest stereo offerings, Fisher followed their time honored design plan of placing the volume control at the input of the power amplifier section, which in this case, means that the wiper of the volume control is connected directly to the control grid in the pentode section of the driver tubes. This scheme works very well as long as the driver tubes develop minimal grid emission current at the control grid of the pentode section. However, the popular adapter facilitated alternative tubes often develop enough grid emission (since they were basically designed for TV video service) to make the volume control sound scratchy with rotation. When this current is applied across the wiper contact where it comes into contact with the carbon track within the control, noise is generated that is amplified and reproduced in the speaker as static whenever the control is rotated. Again, the 7199 is specifically developed to minimize the development of grid emission current, allowing its use in sensitive designs where the pentode grid is connected directly to the wiper of a level control. Under these same conditions, the popular alternative tubes will cause the volume control to produce noisy operation, making again, the 7199 the tube of choice for this unit.

In units where no level controls are involved (such as in many basic power amplifiers for example), it is often possible to use the popular alternative tubes in place of the 7199 with an appropriate adapter, and achieve excellent results from the substitution. In this case however, with the design format that Fisher uses, this is not one of them.

4. B+ Feed to R131 and R133:
Downstream from the output tube screen grids, Fisher provided a dual B+ distribution network in the TA-600 -- one for each channel -- to support the driver, line/tone, and phono preamp stages. This was a nice touch in the early days of stereo, when crosstalk was a major concern in the early all-on-one-chassis stereo offerings. In the TA-600, it works great up to the driver tubes. But from that point on downstream, some dyslexic Fisher engineer got their wires crossed -- literally. The wires feeding R131 and R133 need to be reversed at their C37C & C37D connecting terminals. As is, the distribution from the Channel A power amplifier section is powering the Channel B line/tone and phono preamp sections, and visa versa. Reversing these two leads will allow the distribution networks to operate as intended.

Pics include:

1. The unit with the wiring scheme as originally built by Fisher. Note the white and yellow leads coming down the right side of the can caps, connecting to the bottom can cap. These two leads connected as shown reverse the B+ supply between the two channels to the small signal tube stages.

Also note the brown lead from pin #8 of the GZ34 rectifier tube, and the red lead from C37A (7:30 position) extending up to the fold in the chassis, turning right, going across the fold of the chassis near the top driver tube socket (Channel A, V20), and ultimately connecting to R19 and R26, which are out of the picture. The close proximity to this tube (pin #7 in particular) causes notable noise in that channel.

2. Here, the white and yellow leads have been reversed, so that each B+ distribution circuit stays within its own designated channel. The brown and red leads to R19 and R26 have not yet been corrected.

3. The finished power supply revisions. As before, the white and yellow leads have been reversed, but now, the brown and red leads from pin #8 of the GZ34 and C37A respectively, have become two red leads running across the back of the chassis before extending up to connect to the new terminals for R19 and R26.

Note also that R19 and R26 connect only to T-strips designated specifically for them now, and that R19 now consists of two 300 Ohm 10 watt resistors. The right two terminals that used to be part of the T-strip in the center of the pic just under the black tubing that used to facilitate R19 ad R26 have been cut off.

Together, all of these revisions work to increase durability, minimize noise to an inconsequential level (even on sensitive speakers), and maximize stereo performance, while making for quiet volume control operation. I highly recommend that any and all of the points mentioned, as they might apply to any particular TA-600, be implemented to obtain the optimum performance of which the unit is capable.

Dave
 

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Many thanks, Dave :thmbsp:

I've got one of these and have only changed out the can caps and output couplers. I really enjoy the sound and probably listen to it more than any of my other Fisher tube receivers (400, 500B and 800C). I think I'm partial to the EL84 sound. I'll get on your revisions to even make it sound that much better. Appreciate all your help to us Fisher guys!
 
Thanks for the info. I will have a look at my late TA-600 to see if any of the other points apply, specifically regarding the lead dress issue mentioned in #2 and the screen supply stuff in #4.

For what it's worth, those parallel power supply resistors in my TA-600 smoked out some time ago, and it was replaced with a larger wattage single resistor. I'm not sure the value, but I will confirm it's up to the task.
 
Thanks Dave. You work FAST! I'll take a look at mine again and implement as needed.

Larry
 
I had an occasion to spend some time under the deck of one of these beauties, and during the course of my work, determined a number of service points for TA-600 owners to be aware of with their units. While these all relate to the early (7199 driver tube) version, the last point may follow through to later versions as well. These include:

1. Power Supply Dropping Resistor (R19):
Early versions of this receiver specify a 140 Ohm 10 watt device for this component, while later versions used two 280 Ohm 7 watt resistors in parallel to produce a 14 watt rating of the same resistance value. This resistor however dissipates nearly 10 watts under quiescent conditions, leaving zero safety factor in the early units. The safety factor in later units is still marginal when the under hood temps are taken into account. For dependable long term service and extended operation, R19 should be replaced with a 150 Ohm 20 watt device, either as a single resistor, or as two 300 Ohm 10 watt devices in parallel.

2. Lead Dress to Power Supply Resistors R19 and R26:
Early versions used the right two terminals (furthest from the power transformer) on the T-strip containing the NFB components for the Channel A driver tube (V20) to accommodate both R19 & R26. Besides placing about 420 vdc on a terminal that is right next door to a terminal connected to the Channel A 16 Ohm output tap, this allows power supply noise to creep into the cathode circuit of Channel A, via moisture than can contaminate the bakelite material of the T-strip over time. All wiring should be disconnected from these two terminals, and then the terminals should be cut off from the T-strip. Then, a new separate two terminal T-strip should be mounted via the OPT mounting screws to facilitate the two needed terminals. This breaks the noise connection by way of using two separate strips, and adds a significant safety factor to the OPT and any speakers connected to Channel A as well.

Additionally, there are two wires connected to these resistors; one coming from pin #8 of the GZ34 (V11), and one from C37A. As built by Fisher in the early versions, these two wires ran up along the two can caps to the fold in the chassis, made a right turn coming close to pin #7 of V20 (Channel A driver tube), which represents the input to the Channel A power amplifier section, extending down the chassis fold to the appropriate T-strip terminals for R19 and R26. Since these two wires carry significant voltage and ripple currents, their close proximity to V20 adds significant noise to Channel A at any volume control setting above minimum. These wires should be re-routed along the rear of the chassis before extending up to meet their appropriate T-strip terminal points. This revision will make a significant reduction in Channel A hum levels.

3. 7199 Driver Tubes:
Using popular adapters to allow the use of alternate tubes for the driver positions in this unit will typically cause two problems:

A. Notably Increase Quiescent Hum Levels: With the high Gm output tubes employed in this unit, coupled with the high gain of the pentode section of the driver tube, any hum voltages leaking through the heater cathode insulation in the pentode section of these tubes will be sufficiently amplified and become notable in the output as hum. The 7199 is specifically designed to minimize noise via this path, where as the popular alternatives that can be used in this unit with adapters are not. For the blackest background noise levels, 7199 tubes are the tube of choice for this unit.

B. Scratchy Volume Control: Even in their earliest stereo offerings, Fisher followed their time honored design plan of placing the volume control at the input of the power amplifier section, which in this case, means that the wiper of the volume control is connected directly to the control grid in the pentode section of the driver tubes. This scheme works very well as long as the driver tubes develop minimal grid emission current at the control grid of the pentode section. However, the popular adapter facilitated alternative tubes often develop enough grid emission (since they were basically designed for TV video service) to make the volume control sound scratchy with rotation. When this current is applied across the wiper contact where it comes into contact with the carbon track within the control, noise is generated that is amplified and reproduced in the speaker as static whenever the control is rotated. Again, the 7199 is specifically developed to minimize the development of grid emission current, allowing its use in sensitive designs where the pentode grid is connected directly to the wiper of a level control. Under these same conditions, the popular alternative tubes will cause the volume control to produce noisy operation, making again, the 7199 the tube of choice for this unit.

In units where no level controls are involved (such as in many basic power amplifiers for example), it is often possible to use the popular alternative tubes in place of the 7199 with an appropriate adapter, and achieve excellent results from the substitution. In this case however, with the design format that Fisher uses, this is not one of them.

4. B+ Feed to R131 and R133:
Downstream from the output tube screen grids, Fisher provided a dual B+ distribution network in the TA-600 -- one for each channel -- to support the driver, line/tone, and phono preamp stages. This was a nice touch in the early days of stereo, when crosstalk was a major concern in the early all-on-one-chassis stereo offerings. In the TA-600, it works great up to the driver tubes. But from that point on downstream, some dyslexic Fisher engineer got their wires crossed -- literally. The wires feeding R131 and R133 need to be reversed at their C37C & C37D connecting terminals. As is, the distribution from the Channel A power amplifier section is powering the Channel B line/tone and phono preamp sections, and visa versa. Reversing these two leads will allow the distribution networks to operate as intended.

Pics include:

1. The unit with the wiring scheme as originally built by Fisher. Note the white and yellow leads coming down the right side of the can caps, connecting to the bottom can cap. These two leads connected as shown reverse the B+ supply between the two channels to the small signal tube stages.

Also note the brown lead from pin #8 of the GZ34 rectifier tube, and the red lead from C37A (7:30 position) extending up to the fold in the chassis, turning right, going across the fold of the chassis near the top driver tube socket (Channel A, V20), and ultimately connecting to R19 and R26, which are out of the picture. The close proximity to this tube (pin #7 in particular) causes notable noise in that channel.

2. Here, the white and yellow leads have been reversed, so that each B+ distribution circuit stays within its own designated channel. The brown and red leads to R19 and R26 have not yet been corrected.

3. The finished power supply revisions. As before, the white and yellow leads have been reversed, but now, the brown and red leads from pin #8 of the GZ34 and C37A respectively, have become two red leads running across the back of the chassis before extending up to connect to the new terminals for R19 and R26.

Note also that R19 and R26 connect only to T-strips designated specifically for them now, and that R19 now consists of two 300 Ohm 10 watt resistors. The right two terminals that used to be part of the T-strip in the center of the pic just under the black tubing that used to facilitate R19 ad R26 have been cut off.

Together, all of these revisions work to increase durability, minimize noise to an inconsequential level (even on sensitive speakers), and maximize stereo performance, while making for quiet volume control operation. I highly recommend that any and all of the points mentioned, as they might apply to any particular TA-600, be implemented to obtain the optimum performance of which the unit is capable.

Dave

I'm thinking some frontal pictures, and a complete explanation of how good the 600 sounds pushing them Cornwalls is needed to fully explain the TA-600 experience. But that's just me thinking out loud. :D

Glad these informative threads can help others, great work Dave! :thmbsp:
 
Some feedback regarding how these pertain to a late TA-600. Mine is s/n 59028.

1) Already mostly covered. The original resistor is marginal. Mine has been replaced with a pair of 75 ohm 10w in series. This had been done before I got the amp. Mine also has a replacement first filter cap, so its entirely possible that the resistors died because of that, and not because they are not sufficient in the stock later configuration.

2) This seems to be corrected. The NFB in my amplifier doesn't land on a terminal strip shared with any high voltage components.

2a) The wiring between the rectifier tube and R119/R169 do run diagonal across the chassis, directly under the coupling caps between the channel B phase inverter and the channel 2 output tubes. It also runs very close to the terminal strip with the Channel B NFB wiring.

3) N/A, no 7199 here

4) This appears to be correct in my amplifier. The channel A phase inverter tube feeds from the same supply as the channel A tone amp feeds from.
 
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Thanks Gadget -- good to know these items were addressed in the later versions, and that Fisher felt these areas needed attention.

It's interesting however that the early version of the TA-600 seems to be the only unit Fisher produced that used the 7199 tube -- unless the TA-800 did as well. Whether or not this was a tip-o-the-hat to RCA who developed the tube to help create a production need for them, I'm sure we'll never know -- but that scenario wouldn't surprise me at all. However, during their heyday, Fisher absolutely stayed away from any of the pentode/triode tube offerings, except for supporting the Microtune feature on their highest tier tuners. The 7199 is a very good tube, but there just weren't enough units designed to use it to warrant building any kind of a large production reserve.

Dave
 
Thanks Gadget -- good to know these items were addressed in the later versions, and that Fisher felt these areas needed attention.

It's interesting however that the early version of the TA-600 seems to be the only unit Fisher produced that used the 7199 tube -- unless the TA-800 did as well. Whether or not this was a tip-o-the-hat to RCA who developed the tube to help create a production need for them, I'm sure we'll never know -- but that scenario wouldn't surprise me at all. However, during their heyday, Fisher absolutely stayed away from any of the pentode/triode tube offerings, except for supporting the Microtune feature on their highest tier tuners. The 7199 is a very good tube, but there just weren't enough units designed to use it to warrant building any kind of a large production reserve.

Dave

My TA-800 had the 7199's like the 600, but the key word is "HAD". It now sports the 6BL8 conversion. UGGHHH! :sigh:
 
Dave,

Thanks for the information. My early model TA 600 is my favorite and will receive the upgrades.
 
took a look at my late model version.

Figured some pictures in order for comparison with the earlier version.

1.) Power dropping Resistors: R19, R169 are paralled (on two terminal strips with R26) 280oHm 7W (soon to be 300ohm 10W), then R26 is tapped off the left side and then feeds pin 9 of the tubes. The insulation ends of the RED wires has been heatshrinked due to melting of the insulation from DeSoldering and cutting back lead and insulation..

2.) Lead Dress: The Blue and Red leads from pin 8 of the GZ34 and C37A run past the can cap, then diagonally up to the level of the terminal strips.

3.) N/A no 7199's

4.) A to A and B to B.


Red and Blue leads from GZ34 and C37A run across bottom then up diagonally under the coupling caps, then turn to the terminal strips. Blue wire to right end(input), and red to left side.
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C37A and outer OPT feed off left terminal with jumpers to center and right terminals. Center OPT is fed from center terminal and R26 from right. The jumper from the left to center terminal is buried right at the phenolic and hard to see. Originally this setup was on a single terminal strip which was overheated and breaking down due to heat charring, with the 280 ohm resistors stacked on each other(not good for cooling). I changed it to the dual strips when I did the overhaul back in 2013. Added heatshrink to leads that I had to cut back due to melting of insulation.
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The WHITE wire to C37D on Dave's DEMO (RS STEVE's) early version unit is Green on mine. Yellow lead is Yellow. Heatshrink on most leads after cutting back the leads and melted insulation from installation of new Can caps.
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So this is addtional verification of Gadget's post for the 50001 series that the work had been done by the last series of the TA-600.

Larry
 

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Thanks Larry -- A good move to separate the two 280 Ohm resistors to a horizontal position -- otherwise, the upper one as originally installed in a vertical stack was getting baked. Note I accomplished the same thing as well when I re-installed the original power supply design back into this unit.

I probably should have provided some before pics of this unit here (as in when first received), as the pics of C37 shown -- even the one with the Channel A and B power supply wires shown reversed -- is all my work.

When received, that can cap had been replaced in the oh-so-typical fashion of simply snipping off all of the old positive terminals from the original can, and then soldering the old terminals to the tops of the new terminals on the new can -- a practice that in this case, left that wiring dangerously close to the bottom cover when attached. While this approach can certainly work as a repair method, it also just screams the fact that the unit has been "repaired", and does not represent the caliber to which the unit was originally built to. In any event, because all of the wires were still attached to their original can terminals as built by Fisher, that's how I know it was a factory error.

My first effort was to simply clean up the work, which resulted in the first pic shown in my post with the wiring still in error (just rewired from the way I received it), and then the corrected photo showed the same work after I caught the error, and then corrected the crossed-up wiring. In any event, it certainly appears that Fisher caught the error as well, and made the correction in their later units.

Dave
 
Thanks Gadget -- good to know these items were addressed in the later versions, and that Fisher felt these areas needed attention.

It's interesting however that the early version of the TA-600 seems to be the only unit Fisher produced that used the 7199 tube -- unless the TA-800 did as well. Whether or not this was a tip-o-the-hat to RCA who developed the tube to help create a production need for them, I'm sure we'll never know -- but that scenario wouldn't surprise me at all. However, during their heyday, Fisher absolutely stayed away from any of the pentode/triode tube offerings, except for supporting the Microtune feature on their highest tier tuners. The 7199 is a very good tube, but there just weren't enough units designed to use it to warrant building any kind of a large production reserve.

Dave

My TA-800 ran a pair of the 7199 tubes as well. I've been carrying 6 or 8 of the 7199 forever in my tube stash, and I remember thinking that I finally had something to use them in. Perhaps it was due to the work being done by the uninspired local tech I brought it to (this was a 1-owner TA-800 that had never been opened up), but the sound was just sort of...so-so; there was no "magic" to it like other Fisher receivers I've owned. I sold it overseas and actually made a few dollars on it.

Loaded question, but in properly-functioning order, how do the S-500/TA-600/TA-800 units compare to the more heralded 400/500/800 receivers of the mid-1960s? I know that these earlier receivers have mono tuners, but I'm curious to know thoughts from those of you who own each and/or have A/B'ed them. I've always been partial to the look of @1960-62 Fisher with the golden faceplates and the brown-centered knobs.
 
Odds n Ends

1. EARLY STEREO FISHER GEAR took great pains to make sure that the changers of the day wouldn't produce rumble or feedback when used in a console installation, which was quite typical of the day. As a result, they included a variety of permanent LF filters to address that concern. Today, the filters are an anachronism, preventing flat performance from today's wider range recordings. Removing the filters won't boost the bass above flat, but will simply allow all of the recorded LF information to come through unattenuated. To remove the filters:

A. Remove C102/C103, and short their connecting points together with jumper wires.

B. Similarly, remove C115/C117, and short their connecting points together with jumper wires as well. But before you do --

C. Also remove R120/R121.

D. Finally, replace C108/C110 with .1 uF @ 400v caps.

With these modifications, the front panel Low Filter and High Filter switches will still operate normally, but the unit will no longer attenuate low frequency response as it did with the original design, even when the front panel Low Filter switch was turned off.


2. THE OUTPUT STAGE in this unit powers the phono preamp tube heaters in all versions of this unit. To properly heat those tubes, the output tubes are set pretty hot in the original design. Even using a typical line voltage of the day (117 vac), this will often cause the output tubes to show some color in the plates. As a result, later versions of this unit cooled the output tubes down somewhat to prevent high bias requirement tubes from really cooking themselves. This same amount of reduction in quiescent current can be achieved in the earlier version units by changing R159 to 12K (from 15K). Alternatively, the existing 15K resistor can be left in place, and a 62K resistor connected across it to accomplish the same thing.

However, even at the reduced quiescent current level, and even with an AC line current limiter installed, the set still requires a tightly matched quad of output tubes to be installed, so that they can all share equally in the load of heating the phono preamp tube heaters. If the matching is not tight, even with the expedients mentioned installed, today's higher AC line voltages will still cause whatever tubes are the higher bias requirement tubes in the quad to color their plates slightly in a darkened room.

This level of operation hardly means instant or even near imminent death for the output tubes. They will in fact operate for a good long time in this condition. Remember that well matched replacement quad sets were pretty cheap and easily available back in the day. Therefore, the design approach of depending on tightly matched tubes was accepted design practice. But ultimately however, if a tight match doesn't exist, it means that the tubes are not wearing evenly, just as with four tires on a car not wearing evenly. Except that in this case, you can't rotate the tubes to evenly distribute the wear like you can tires on a car.

Like other Fisher receivers, the real answer to this problem is to install individual output tube bias controls to enforce that all four tubes draw an equal amount of quiescent current. That way, they can all draw their share of the total current necessary to adequately heat the phono preamp tube heaters, without any of them being individually overburdened. Output tube life is then maximized. With the very different tube availability that exists in today's vacuum tube audio environment , it is the ultimate answer to the issue. If there is enough interest, I can develop an adjustable bias network for the 600 series of receivers.


3. 7199 TUBES: As mentioned in the first post, these tubes are far and away the best choice for this unit, as designed. It's very low grid emission qualities and low heater/cathode leakage characteristics make its performance notably superior to that of the other "with adapter" drop in replacement tubes available. But even just sticking to the originally specified tube is no guarantee of perfect performance. As with all tubes, there are 7199s, and there are 7199s. Virtually all examples I've encountered will display the low grid emission quality it exhibits (allowing for quiet volume control operation in this case). But there is variability in their (still low for the class) heater/cathode leakage characteristic, making some examples very quiet, while others will produce a low 60 Hz hum in the output of the channel they're installed in.

No doubt, this inconsistency is the reason that Fisher changed over to using 7247 tubes in later versions, where triodes won't exhibit the superior HF performance that pentode tubes will in this design, but it is a virtual guarantee that the darn tubes won't hum, either.

As with all commercial equipment, there are design trade offs made. Fisher chose to accept the slight tradeoff in HF performance that triode tubes will produce when used as driver tubes in the topology of these classic designs, while Scott (for example) steadfastly stuck to using 7199 type tubes in the exact same scenarios. And predictably, Scott units often have more low level hum as a result -- but also don't display the HF roll off that Fisher gear is sometimes noted for, either.

All good things to consider as you seek to achieve the best these fine units have to offer. Pics include:

1. The subject of this study.

2. Besides all the discussion of the power supply and audio circuits, this poor guy had an AM section that was clearly a stepchild to the FM section, which was a shame as Fisher AM tuners are some of the best. Besides being very intermittent in operation, it was missing it's ferrite antenna to boot. But, the cause of the intermittent operation was found and corrected, and Steve was able to supply an original AM antenna for the unit, seen installed here in the back right corner of the unit.

3. Here the unit is picking up a northern Chattanooga FM station over 100 miles away in my basement with nothing but a dipole antenna, and a Nashville AM station with near full signal strength using just the ferrite antenna. The extremes in programming between the two could make your head explode!

Dave
 

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My understanding of the AM band on the TA-600 and TA-800 was that they were, when tuned up, very close to FM quality due to them being used in the FM/AM simulcast stereo scenario. It was supposedly the best AM tuner FISHER put out, for the above reason.

Mine is not quite up to that standard, but it's probably the best sounding AM radio I've heard in a long time. And it does DX very well on the ferrite antenna at night. I can pretty much go up and down the east cost with it, and as far west as Nashville, and Indianapolis, just on the ferrite. The FM to me is Average, with it also not having been peaked to spec. But it does get some stations in Philadelphia if I rotate the antenna slightly from Baltimore. I can pick up on station in RICHMOND (120miles out southwest) but it's weak. I attribute this more to the Appalacians being between me and the TXMTR. I can pick up Fredericksburg fairly well on it. DC and Balt are no problem. Lot's of stations and fairly close to each other too. The selectivity is fair with it being wide band so I have to fight with the dial to get Richmond, Fredericksburg or Philly, unless the station is in a quiet area of the DC / Balt dial.


An adjustable bias setup would be appreciated here. It's cheaper in the long run for me being on a fixed income. I'm running Russian 6p14p-EV's in it but have some GE/RCA 7189's in my 481A and the 610/560 combo as spares if need be.
 
Ivan; The TA-800 uses 7591a's which puts it in the 400-500B/C - 800B/C family tree. It should have the same basic sound as the later units.

The 500-S and TA-600's use the 7189 tube so it'll sound a bit different. Not as Ballsy in the Bass, but with a great midrange and decent highs, albeit rolled of a little. As the 500-S/TA-600/TA-800 were the 1st Stereo receivers built by FISHER they have their little quirks, and the layouts aren't the best, but with each succeeding generation they got a lot better.

I love my 800-C's but the TA-600 I believe has a better tuner. And that's just my opinion. Other's may question my sanity also, but my wife has 1st shot at that, so everyone line up behind her.
 
Thanks Larry--

I'd be tempted to be on the lookout for a 600, but I don't have the space for another system. The big problem I have is that I'm in an area with generally uninteresting radio programming and terrible reception. I'm trying to decide if it's worth installing & running wire to a dipole antenna just to get reception to 3 or 4 stations that I probably won't listen to.

Dave's picture of the 600 dial glass lit up in the darkness is the barometer for cool by which all else is measured. I should probably be embarrassed to admit this, but the only purpose my 202-r serves these days (see above paragraph) is to enhance the hi-fi experience by glowing atop the 400cx-2.
 
Ivan; The TA-800 uses 7591a's which puts it in the 400-500B/C - 800B/C family tree. It should have the same basic sound as the later units.

In my opinion, the TA-800 shares more similarities in sound to the 600 than the 7591 units. To my ears the TA's are a little more detailed sounding in the highs. But since both my TA's were somewhat modified and butchered by a former member, that jury is still out. I'm just glad Dave was able to give the old songbird its quality sound again. I think my Fisher's will need to be renamed Fisherlespie's in order to give both Avery and Dave credit. :scratch2: :yes:
 
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