tandberg 3014

maclvrbr

AK Subscriber
Subscriber
During use I noticed when trying to record the record button will not light up nor will it go into record mode. Any ideas? thanks
 
So you hit record and nothing happens, transport doesn't engage, LED's on the transport buttons don't change?

Possible the microswitch that reads the tab presence on the top edge of the cassette is shot, or unplugged... also have seen 3014 refuse to record/erase due to melted transformer in the bias oscillator circuit but I don't recall that preventing the transport from engaging.

John
 
I'd be checking the record switch as a first step. Should see one side of that change state when the tape is inserted (or you push the switch in manually).

John
 
In post 3, you said "yes (the record safety tab has been removed)".

That will prevent the deck from going into record.

The tab needs to be INTACT in order for the deck to record. Put a piece of tape over the hole to enable record.
 
Let me rephrase the tabs on top of the cassette are in place and it will not go into record, sorry for the confusion
 
Test the switch that senses that record tab with your ohm meter. Resistance should be 1 ohm or less between C and NC. And 1 ohm or less between C and NO (with switch activated).
 
I am getting 1 ohm on 1 switch and 4 ohms on the other switch without record buttonit being pushed in.
 
There is only one record tab sensor switch on the left. It should measure one ohm or less between C and NO with a recordable cassette in the deck.
 
Tapetech - It's possible that maclvrbr means that the resistance between C and NC is 1 ohm and the resistance between C and NO is 4 ohms when he refers to the "two switches" which are in fact the two positions of the same switch.
 
There at least appears to be 2 switches on the top of each corner of the cassette. These are the 2 switches that I checked and yes it was resistance no power on the unit and switch was not engaged.
 
So if there are two switches, one of these should be the record tab sensor switch as Tapetech indicated and the other should be the CrO2 tape detect switch as Steve indicated. Both of these switches should have a common (C) terminal, a normally closed (NC) terminal and a normally open (NO) terminal. Tapetech asked you to measure the resistance between the C and NO terminals of the record tab sensor switch with a recordable cassette installed (in this case the switch should be activated). This resistance should be 1 ohm or less.
 
First, ignore any terminal that doesn't have a wire soldered to it; we don't care about that one and no need to measure it. These may even be 2-terminal switches, haven't looked at one recently.

Personally I'd check it with the deck powered on and watch the switched side change voltage when you load the tape, as opposed to measuring resistance of a switch that is plugged into some other circuit. It'll either be wired for ground on one side and the other side sits high when unloaded and gets pulled to ground when you load the tape, or one side sits high when no tape is in and the other side gets pulled up to that voltage when you load a tape. High could be 5V or 10V, damned if I can find the detect sensor on my schematic at the moment but they're switching 10V thru the 70/120 switch.

I suspect you'll see the effects of a failing microswitch (carboned-up or more likely tarnished contacts) more clearly that way. It's easier to look at both sides of the switch when there's load across it and see that both terminals are more or less at the same voltage when the tape is loaded. And, that measurement doesn't depend on the meter being good enough to read low resistances accurately - even cheap multimeters should be able to see a ~5V line being pulled low by the switch, or not. Yes that could mean you have to have some judgment of what the switching threshold voltage is, but if you measure the voltages and bring the info back here we can help with that. (I am assuming that the switch is open when no tape is loaded, closed when a tape is loaded - more logical than holding a circuit high or at ground through the switch all of the time a tape is not loaded, but that is an assumption since as mentioned I didn't spot the switch when I poked thru the schematic).

You might also find that neither side changes, or that there's no voltage/ground at the switch where there should be (broken wire/terminal/solder joint etc.) which a simple resistance check of the switch in isolation won't tell you.

I can check a working one and be more specific what you should be getting on that switch if needed, let me know (tapetech may know w/o having to check one, wouldn't surprise me).

John
 
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