Tannoy Monitor Red 15 crossover Rebuild

Now those are some special caps used in those crossovers. Cost more than the speakers. But that can yield excellent results I'm sure.

Why the one big one and one small one for the 18µF but 18.9 installed when you could have used three 6s or a 10 and 8 and matched the schematic?
 
Good question. I had talked with Chris several times about the crossover build and assembly. He was concerned about the leads being over stressed,(and possibly breaking) especially on a big hog of a capacitor. We were going to mate 13.3's with 4.7's for an exacting fit. But the 13.3's had single filament leads. He suggested I use his 15's with 3.9's. The 15's have multi filament leads. Even if those caps were exactly on spec they would fall just outside the +/- 10% on an 18uf cap. But he sorted his goods and came up with low 15uf caps and low 3.9uf caps and matched them for me. The result was 18.2uf on both crossovers. He did me right. Pretty much matched the caps all the way through on both crossovers. I am floored at the difference it made. Now I have to try to design a proper board to put the crossovers on, with real terminations and wiring. It is all slapped together with wire nuts and rubbish for wire.

I have no idea why the the market (on the auction place) will support what it will for a single 15" Red with orange dust cap and crossover, but everything came out around there.IMG_3212.jpg
 
If the leads are fragile, and compared to the other parts they are, I would locate the connection close to the caps and leave that lead available and fastened so that it will not break. Many think the Tannoy is a final speaker and doing the work to make them their best can be costly but you're not buying new speakers so funds can become available. I'm sure Hans Hilberink would be interested in seeing some pics of this upgrade and the ability to post it on his site. I guess you are going to be positioning the inductors for least interference, distance and orientation, one flat one on edge.
 
Thank you for the suggestions. It is true this layout is a very rough mock up. I was as gentle with the leads as I could have been and I think the general layout is acceptable. If everything goes my way, I will be able to have all components meeting at the same approximate height on the final crossover board. I think Chris had a particular situation in which someone had broken a lead on the same size of capacitor on two occasions. Not repeating occurrence in which many leads had broken from a variety of caps. I will stand the smaller inductor up and study for improved sonics, at this point they stand nearly 7.5 inches from one another.
 
Get the inductor diagram. Search ak for inductor interference and it will show up. Seems 20cm separation is good but only one type of one flat the other on edge. Don't rely on me t talking about what I saw a while ago.
 
Get the inductor diagram. Search ak for inductor interference and it will show up. Seems 20cm separation is good but only one type of one flat the other on edge. Don't rely on me t talking about what I saw a while ago.
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Thanks Blue Shadow. I was aware of the diagram and had referred to it. The inductors are beyond the max distance suggested for the positions they were in. But I set the smaller one on end anyway, thanks for the suggestion.

An astute AK'er noticed I had incorrectly assembled the low frequency section of the crossover. I had the inductor tap into the positive side then go to ground before the big capacitor. I've corrected the mistake and things sound even more clear, but at the expense of some falsely permitted frequencies getting to the woofer cone. I asked a couple questions over there but there seems to be less activity there. So I'll ask here.

"It looks to me your inductor in the woofer circuit is not connected correctly. One of the leads from the inductor is connected directly to ground with the large capacitor lead." -homebrew

Wow! How correct you are.
I've corrected the mistake on one channel. Thank you very much for pointing it out. I had been listening to these crossovers on the Tannoy drivers but only with ~2.4 watts per driver for about a week. I've only corrected one of the crossovers to see how it was different from the other still incorrect crossover. The difference is not glaringly evident.

Because I don't understand crossover theory I'd like to ask a couple questions. In the picture above, the low frequency section of the crossover had the inductor going to ground with the large capacitor- what in theory was happening to the signal headed to the woofer?

Now that the inductor is in series with the on the positive side and the large capacitor runs parallel after the inductor, what is happening to the signal headed to the woofer?

Thank you very much for pointing out my mistake and I appreciate any insight you can offer me as I learn about crossovers." -litefootdan

Thanks for any help anyone can offer ;)
 
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