ADVICE TO NEWBIES LIKE ME
1. Set up a work a work surface with space for the tape deck, tools, a high-intensity light, and a towel or other soft cushion that will easily slide, for the deck to sit on and be turned when necessary. Have room for a note pad and pen to conveniently write notes as you work.
2. Set up divided storage boxes for small and large parts, with the sections consecutively numbered, to place parts in as you remove them from the deck. As you remove parts, write a brief description on your note pad, such as “screws” or “spring” and the section numbers in which they’re placed.
3. If possible, use a high-intensity headlamp.
4. Before each stage of your work, take well-focused and well-lighted closeup pictures of what you’re disassembling. Don’t rely on your memory to reassemble!
5. Don’t start the work unless you have set aside at least several hours during which you can continue uninterrupted. Take your time—don’t be in a hurry. When you get stuck: take a breather; take a long, close look at the service manual’s exploded parts diagram; and ask for help online if you’re still stumped.
6. Well before beginning the work, tell your wife or husband, partner, or significant other what you’re planning to do, about how long it will take, the space you will need, any unexpected costs that might come up, etc.
7. Disclaimer: Given the number of mistakes I made disassembling and reassembling this tape deck, undoubtedly I also made mistakes in making notes about what I was doing. So, while I hope these notes and pix are helpful, please be cautious about using them uncritically.
INITIAL DISASSEMBLY FOR CAPSTAN BELT REPLACEMENT
1. Remove the five screws that secure the cover to the chassis—two on each side (#1) and one on the rear of the cover (#2).
2. Lift the cover from the rear and slowly pull it backwards to remove it.
3. Disconnect the six transport cables from their connectors.
4. Remove the “lid, cassette” (#17).
5. Remove the 5 screws holding the transport assembly in place—two on the top of the chassis and three on the bottom (which are not shown here).
1. Set up a work a work surface with space for the tape deck, tools, a high-intensity light, and a towel or other soft cushion that will easily slide, for the deck to sit on and be turned when necessary. Have room for a note pad and pen to conveniently write notes as you work.
2. Set up divided storage boxes for small and large parts, with the sections consecutively numbered, to place parts in as you remove them from the deck. As you remove parts, write a brief description on your note pad, such as “screws” or “spring” and the section numbers in which they’re placed.
3. If possible, use a high-intensity headlamp.
4. Before each stage of your work, take well-focused and well-lighted closeup pictures of what you’re disassembling. Don’t rely on your memory to reassemble!
5. Don’t start the work unless you have set aside at least several hours during which you can continue uninterrupted. Take your time—don’t be in a hurry. When you get stuck: take a breather; take a long, close look at the service manual’s exploded parts diagram; and ask for help online if you’re still stumped.
6. Well before beginning the work, tell your wife or husband, partner, or significant other what you’re planning to do, about how long it will take, the space you will need, any unexpected costs that might come up, etc.
7. Disclaimer: Given the number of mistakes I made disassembling and reassembling this tape deck, undoubtedly I also made mistakes in making notes about what I was doing. So, while I hope these notes and pix are helpful, please be cautious about using them uncritically.
INITIAL DISASSEMBLY FOR CAPSTAN BELT REPLACEMENT
1. Remove the five screws that secure the cover to the chassis—two on each side (#1) and one on the rear of the cover (#2).
2. Lift the cover from the rear and slowly pull it backwards to remove it.
3. Disconnect the six transport cables from their connectors.
4. Remove the “lid, cassette” (#17).
5. Remove the 5 screws holding the transport assembly in place—two on the top of the chassis and three on the bottom (which are not shown here).