WalrusIsPaul
New Member
on my teac 2000xr the left wheel table is rubbing up against the metal,,how can i adjust it so its out as far as the other,,,i rubbing and causing the tape to stop or move slow
teac 2000 reel table in to far..help
- Thread starter WalrusIsPaul
- Start date
Vintage TX
Analog forever
Welcome to Ak and congratulations to your Teac X-2000, what a deal you found. :yes:
So L-reeltable need adjustment, if your deck has the wood-cabinet it needs to come off to reach the plastic innercabinet.
Leave the faceplate alone, this adjustment is done from the top with rear cabinet off.
On each L + R side you find 4 philips screws, take all out.
Then put a soft blanket or towl on the bench and lay the deck horizontal with faceplate up.
On the bottom you find 2 legs with philips screws attached in the center of each one.
Take those off, then carefully stand the deck upright again and slide the deck out from the plastic cabinet feeding the powercord thru the hole on the back at the same time.
Set the cabinet aside and leave the deck standing up.
Take a look from the top and you can see each reel-table hub, check if it has allen-screw or philips as both were used on X-2000 R.
You find 2 adjusting screws, that can be reached thru the open slot.
If yours has allen scews these are metric, use the correct size.
Unscrew 2 turns on each one and carefully pull the reel-table out just a hair.
Tighten the 2 screws again and mount a reel on the machine.
Don't stick your fingers in any places on the back etc during this test.
After you have loaded the tape, look how the tape rides on the L-tension roller, it should be in the center of the roller with no resistance to each side.
Press play and test with both speed's so the tape is center on both the L-reel and tension-roller.
If not, turn the machine off, unplug the powercord and adjust L-reel-table again.
When there is no rubbing and tape run's smooth, re-install rear plastic cabinet again.
Good Luck :thmbsp:
So L-reeltable need adjustment, if your deck has the wood-cabinet it needs to come off to reach the plastic innercabinet.
Leave the faceplate alone, this adjustment is done from the top with rear cabinet off.
On each L + R side you find 4 philips screws, take all out.
Then put a soft blanket or towl on the bench and lay the deck horizontal with faceplate up.
On the bottom you find 2 legs with philips screws attached in the center of each one.
Take those off, then carefully stand the deck upright again and slide the deck out from the plastic cabinet feeding the powercord thru the hole on the back at the same time.
Set the cabinet aside and leave the deck standing up.
Take a look from the top and you can see each reel-table hub, check if it has allen-screw or philips as both were used on X-2000 R.
You find 2 adjusting screws, that can be reached thru the open slot.
If yours has allen scews these are metric, use the correct size.
Unscrew 2 turns on each one and carefully pull the reel-table out just a hair.
Tighten the 2 screws again and mount a reel on the machine.
Don't stick your fingers in any places on the back etc during this test.
After you have loaded the tape, look how the tape rides on the L-tension roller, it should be in the center of the roller with no resistance to each side.
Press play and test with both speed's so the tape is center on both the L-reel and tension-roller.
If not, turn the machine off, unplug the powercord and adjust L-reel-table again.
When there is no rubbing and tape run's smooth, re-install rear plastic cabinet again.
Good Luck :thmbsp:
Last edited:
enewcombjr
Member
Teac Reel Table Adjustment
I adjusted Reel Tables on 7 teacs last year. This may save you some time and avoid trouble adjusting Teac Reel Tables.
My collection of TEACs come in 3 varieties:
a. Old Style, Real Wood Side Panels or Plastic Laminate Side Panels, Silver Fronts
b. Medium Period Style: Plastic Face Plate, greige color (grey/beige), either darker plastic rear case, or same but covered in 4 Sided Wood Look box
c. Modern Style: Thick Aluminum Face Plates, Silver or Anodized Black, either darker plastic rear case, or same but covered in 4 Sided Wood Veneer Box
Cautions:
a. Verify that all your tension rollers and tape guides are working properly first: free movement, but, not too loose that the tape can move in and out slightly when running.
b. It is easy to damage the wood boxes, or scuff up your plastic case, so, be carefull during this step, protecting rear edges as well as the 4 sides.
c. Once the cases are off, it is easy to damage the edges of the face plates, so, continue to be careful. All the work, fixing things and then some damage is a shame.
d. The interior end of the left reel of early style machines has a notch for the counter belt. To avoid more work, try to keep it in the groove while working. Good time to check it to make sure counter belt not too loose or too dry and the two pulley notches not too dirty.
e. Occasionally a warped reel looks like poor alignment, so, do your set up with straight reels. Some rare old non-standard overall thickness reels exist, so verify yours are both 'normal'. If it is high up on the shaft, hard to tighten when you go to lock it on, thats the rare too thick one.
Do not remove the exterior Reel Table face plate, (black rubber, reel shaft, 3 screws), they need to be on for the adjustment.
Once Rear Case(s) off: a decently long shaft screw driver or long shaft allen wrench will be needed to reach and loosen the two screws that tighten the reel to the shaft. The screws do not need to be removed, just loosened enough to allow the reel to move in/out on the shaft, then tightened up again. Less chance of dropping and losing them.
Preliminary Adjustment: I found that all 3 styles aligned properly with the tape path when there was a clearance of 3/16" between the face plate and the rear face of the reel table. I found a sheet of rubber material 3/16" thick, I fit it between them with rotation just possible, and make a preliminary tightening of the interior two screws, and run a test, and bingo, typically right on, then tighten them up.
The tape should center itself within the interior space of the reel, avoiding rubbing either interior edge or stacking off center: both reels. Check at play speed and at ffwd and rew speeds. Watch it for a while as the tape gets onto the reel you are watching.
If even slightly off, take the time to make any minor adjustment as you do not want to damage the edges of your tapes, or have poor winding onto your reel during storage and next playback.
If you take the time to get the inside cover off, and you are handy enough to make this adjustment, well, this is the time to check, clean, oil, etc.
I adjusted Reel Tables on 7 teacs last year. This may save you some time and avoid trouble adjusting Teac Reel Tables.
My collection of TEACs come in 3 varieties:
a. Old Style, Real Wood Side Panels or Plastic Laminate Side Panels, Silver Fronts
b. Medium Period Style: Plastic Face Plate, greige color (grey/beige), either darker plastic rear case, or same but covered in 4 Sided Wood Look box
c. Modern Style: Thick Aluminum Face Plates, Silver or Anodized Black, either darker plastic rear case, or same but covered in 4 Sided Wood Veneer Box
Cautions:
a. Verify that all your tension rollers and tape guides are working properly first: free movement, but, not too loose that the tape can move in and out slightly when running.
b. It is easy to damage the wood boxes, or scuff up your plastic case, so, be carefull during this step, protecting rear edges as well as the 4 sides.
c. Once the cases are off, it is easy to damage the edges of the face plates, so, continue to be careful. All the work, fixing things and then some damage is a shame.
d. The interior end of the left reel of early style machines has a notch for the counter belt. To avoid more work, try to keep it in the groove while working. Good time to check it to make sure counter belt not too loose or too dry and the two pulley notches not too dirty.
e. Occasionally a warped reel looks like poor alignment, so, do your set up with straight reels. Some rare old non-standard overall thickness reels exist, so verify yours are both 'normal'. If it is high up on the shaft, hard to tighten when you go to lock it on, thats the rare too thick one.
Do not remove the exterior Reel Table face plate, (black rubber, reel shaft, 3 screws), they need to be on for the adjustment.
Once Rear Case(s) off: a decently long shaft screw driver or long shaft allen wrench will be needed to reach and loosen the two screws that tighten the reel to the shaft. The screws do not need to be removed, just loosened enough to allow the reel to move in/out on the shaft, then tightened up again. Less chance of dropping and losing them.
Preliminary Adjustment: I found that all 3 styles aligned properly with the tape path when there was a clearance of 3/16" between the face plate and the rear face of the reel table. I found a sheet of rubber material 3/16" thick, I fit it between them with rotation just possible, and make a preliminary tightening of the interior two screws, and run a test, and bingo, typically right on, then tighten them up.
The tape should center itself within the interior space of the reel, avoiding rubbing either interior edge or stacking off center: both reels. Check at play speed and at ffwd and rew speeds. Watch it for a while as the tape gets onto the reel you are watching.
If even slightly off, take the time to make any minor adjustment as you do not want to damage the edges of your tapes, or have poor winding onto your reel during storage and next playback.
If you take the time to get the inside cover off, and you are handy enough to make this adjustment, well, this is the time to check, clean, oil, etc.
jblmar
JBL & marantz
Good advise. To take it a step futher, if you have the non ceramic capstan, put a perfectly centered reel on the take up side and look straight down at the capstan. You should see the discoloration of the metal due to the pressure of the pinch roller and tape that occurs over time. Use that as your guide to align the table.
On the 2300 series decks, there are screws on the tables to adjust the height. No need to get into the machine. On eariler mobels, shims were needed.
Ron
On the 2300 series decks, there are screws on the tables to adjust the height. No need to get into the machine. On eariler mobels, shims were needed.
Ron
