Teac X-2000, 1000 Cabinet Refinish

schwarcw

Active Member
There are more than a few of us who are fortunate to have a nice looking and fully operable Teac X-2000 or X-1000. Many of these units came with poor quality wood cases that are an embarrassment to Teac's quality. The cabinets are made from inexpensive, soft wood or questionable construction and covered with a Rosewood vinyl tape veneer.

I picked up a case for a nominal price that was in poor condition. I embarked on a project to make a nice case out of this challenged piece of pressed board wood products. I am a novice with limited experience in wood refinishing.

First I hire a local craftsman to veneer the cabinet with a cherry veneer. He did a great job, including several deep bruises by filling with wood filler or body putty. The corners were razor sharp and the seams almost invisible despite the blemishes.

I completed some finish work by lightly sanding with 150, 220 then 400 grit paper. It was as smooth as a baby's bum. I used Behlen's wood dye (Cherry) based on a recommendation from a professional and a friend. This product is a non grain raising stain and will maintain the 3 - D look of the wood grain. I used a saturated cotton rag, one quick coat was plenty. This product is a truly non-grain raising stain. The depth of the wood grain was almost holographic to look at, very deep and intriguing. No detail was lost. Next, four, maybe five coats of Minwax hand wiping Polyurethane. It was the first time I used this stuff. Very nice. I only "spot" sanded where I had a few trouble spots (drips, runs, etc.) I smoothed them out and I was good to go with a small repair with stain and urethane.

The results speak for themselves. I am more than satisfied. I have a number of pictures that show the progression from wood, through stain, then urethane finish, for the same sections of the cabinet. Check it out.

Your comments and recommendations are welcome.

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Go for it Rolf! It's a lot of work and a lot of fun. The trick is to get some good veneer. Don't buy the crap at Lowe's or home Depot. It the case if for you, it may be worth getting the veneer, having a professional apply it, then refinish it yourself. The Behlen wood dyes are fantastic!

Carl
 
I looked in to have at least one cabinet redone, but it has some severe damage.
Waiting for a price to have one built from scratch Carl.
I had two decks finished like yours last year.
Take a look:
july2007001.jpg



Akai GX-630 D
AkaiGX-630D7.jpg


Same grain right ?:scratch2:

AkaiGX-630D5.jpg
 
Gotta admit. They do look nice. A heck of a lot better than the cheesy laminate they originally came with. Good job. :thmbsp:

Now if I would just get off my brains and build one from scratch, then I too could finally have something to show off.

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DL-Woody Sportina
 
I apologize for necro-ing this old thread. Could someone with a 1000-R and the wood cabinet be so nice as to post the measurements? Like thickness, size, and position of the holes for the screws and the ones for air? That would be awesome. I could then make an Illustrator drawing, and post it here, so people could just go ahead and visit their local carpenter's, and get one made from whatever they want.

Thanks :)

s.

P.S. OK Let me be more specific, after I looked at some stuff. I think I got the rough measurements from the service manual. Things of interest are:
  • Measurements for the grille holes on top
  • any trim (there seems to be some metal stuff on the sides towards the front)
  • holes for the feet
  • measurements of the cabinet screws
  • position of the holes for the screws
  • pic of the top grille insert
  • Does the top grille just go on top of the two rectangular holes and is fixed symmetrically with six screws?
  • What kind of screws are those?
  • Is there a bottom part to the cabinet, too?
  • The case seems to have a part at the top of the backside. Pic?
 
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I had some walnut veneer left over from doing some Klipsch Quartets a few yrs back so I used it to hide wrong hole location in MX5050 (by Gustavo !! ) sides. OH !! This is NOT to imply Gustavo did the side boards !!! THAT wrong hole location was all MY doing entirely !!
(The earliest ones are different than B2 II's !! )
DSCN2558.JPG

He did such a great job !!
 
I apologize for necro-ing this old thread. Could someone with a 1000-R and the wood cabinet be so nice as to post the measurements? Like thickness, size, and position of the holes for the screws and the ones for air? That would be awesome. I could then make an Illustrator drawing, and post it here, so people could just go ahead and visit their local carpenter's, and get one made from whatever they want.

Thanks :)

s.

P.S. OK Let me be more specific, after I looked at some stuff. I think I got the rough measurements from the service manual. Things of interest are:
  • Measurements for the grille holes on top
  • any trim (there seems to be some metal stuff on the sides towards the front)
  • holes for the feet
  • measurements of the cabinet screws
  • position of the holes for the screws
  • pic of the top grille insert
  • Does the top grille just go on top of the two rectangular holes and is fixed symmetrically with six screws?
  • What kind of screws are those?
  • Is there a bottom part to the cabinet, too?
  • The case seems to have a part at the top of the backside. Pic?
I suppose you have already the measurements
I would be grateful if you could show the drawing ... with dim's
 
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