Technics SU-3500 repair and full restoration

Bert 1100

Super Member
I couldn't resist buying this not-so-little Technics integrated from 1976 - 1977. I knew there was no sound from one channel and the power switch had been bypassed...

If you've seen this already, it's because I posted a few pics in the"Show us your Technics stuff !" thread :)
This rebuild all happened about a month ago while I had a week off from work...

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What decided me was the good looks, the build quality, the bypassable tone controls and the load-adustable phono pre.

It is really nicely built and is very easy to work on since it has plug-in power amp boards (one for each channel) and also plug in tone boards (also one for each channel)

The power supply is really well thought out and robust. The main rails are fed from 2 10'000uf 50V caps (a lot for a 2x40 watt amp !)
There are plenty of biggish local filter caps.
The secondary power supply comes from separate windings and is a regulated + / - 40VDC, adjustable.

The dc offset is adjustable, as well as the idle current of course. the pots are easily accessible on top of the amp cards.

The protection system is quite different from similar amps of other manufacturers :
The relay passes the main AC rails to the rectifier as long as all is well. The normal state of the relay is with closed contacts. So don't expect a click after power-up.
If you hear a click it means there is something wrong and power to the amp cards has been cut off (before even the rectifier...)

So, at first power-up, my relay clicks, but no sound at all. Ok....
I soon figured out the relay was NOT supposed to click.
So I start diagnosis.....and soon find out that with the left amp board out, I get good sound from the right channel.
Problem isolated to the left channel amp board....I started this thread to get some help.

I pulled ALL semiconductors to test them, they all were fine although the diff pair (two 2sa640) had an Hfe of 185 and 95.
But that was not my problem, I swapped them with matched ksa992 with no difference.
So I started checking trace continuity and found a broken trace ! Nothing visible at all, but zero continuity !

So, that was bridged with a wire and all was working well !

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I also started a thread about the broken power switch, and thanks to Gort69 I found a switch that was close enough. On the left the new, in the middle the new modified, on the right the broken original.

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So I started with the full rebuild :

the power boards got new diff pair transistors. The originals were 2sa640, changed for KSA992.
the pinout is the same, but the originals were facing away from each other and were not temperature coupled.
So the new transistors got some leg-bending and are now together in shrink-wrap.
I swapped the original electrolytic 0.68uf input coupling cap for a Mundorf film (the cheaper ones)

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The phono pre got all new electrolytics, two tantalums and two small lytics were changed for Wima MKS2.

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The main board : all new lytics (mostly Silmic II but a few Nichicons as well), new relay, new soft/fast recovery diodes for the secondary PS.
Also some small lytics replaced by Wima MKS2

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The tone boards got all new lytics (one BP Muse in each board) and again some small lytics replaced by Wima MKS2.

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To be followed in the next post...
 
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The rectifier and its small board were pulled and replaced with an IXYS bridge (a bit overkill at 22A :) ) with new snubber diodes.

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The main caps were 10000uf 50v, they were replaced by 10000uf 63V 4-pole caps (Supertech). The wiring is easily done since they are not PCB mounted.

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The one lamp was replaced with a warm white led, needed to make up a small rectifier and cap, with a dropping resistor, it's all inside the shrink-wrap near the edge og the main board.

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The faceplate and case and knobs all got a good cleaning, but it wasn't bad at all to start with...
And it got new feet as well, to replace the not-so-nice small rubber ones.

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And last, I like to have binding posts that accept bananas, and I removed the power cord and replaced it with an IEC socket.

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So...how does it sound ? quite wonderful ! The sound is very clear and punchy, with a particularly nice bass, quite "dense" somehow.
The 4-pole caps (I've been using them on a few amps already) give a more spacious, 3D sound, IMO.

A couple more photos...
adjusting the dc offset...

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and the old parts....

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These were local filtering caps for the power boards.....

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The only thing that I still need to take care of is a leftover of some smell, it was clearly smelling of an old ouse (moldy / dusty and "old electronics" smell )
I'll probably pull the transformer and relay and give it a full wash with some industrial cleaner (no solvents, I think what I have is an equivalent to Windex) and a hose down with hot water.
I did that with my (very smelly) Marantz 1060 with very good results.
 
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Thats a beaut. I want one.
I have a kenwood KA7100 60W and KA5700 40W.
Both similar appearance to your Technics.
 
@Bert 1100: those new feet look awesome! In fact, I myself need two sets for two of my Technics units, but have been unable to locate some so far. Where did you get them?
 
@Bert 1100 , That is a great job you have done there mate, I also have one that needs similar work.
On the repair thread for this amp you mention making up a parts list before starting the restoration.
Would you be kind enough to post the parts list you selected?
 
Would you be kind enough to post the parts list you selected?
Hello down under :)
I did make a parts list, on paper, and then I included parts for two more amps in my Mouser order, so it's all mixed up....
But here is the paper version with a few comments. Use at your own risk ! And better check what is actually there in your amp.
My choice was mostly Elna Silmic II, apart for the small ones (less then 2.2 or 3.3 uf) where I use the Wima MKS2. And there are a couple of bipolars, I used Nichicon MUSE there.

Hope this helps.

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I'm not sure why my pics get downsized so much....hope you can read this.

Oh, and welcome to AK !
 
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Awesome job - I did a technics SU-3602 and loved working on that.

Can I ask where you got the large audio-grade powersupply caps from? I have a Sansui X1 that I will soon need to upgrade all caps for. The only choice I have for great powersupply caps are the superthroughs - they are kinda expensive however....especially shipped to NZ from partsconnexion.
 
@slimecity :
I got the main caps from hificollective.co.uk
I like the super through Nichicons as well. Did you look for them at mouser's or digikey's ?
 
I got the main caps from hificollective.co.uk
I like the super through Nichicons as well. Did you look for them at mouser's or digikey's ?
Thanks for that.

Thanks for that. Looks like partsconnexion still has the best prices for the Nichicon KG series.

Thanks for the pointer to hificollective - are your caps Supertech?
 
@Bert 1100 , G’day mate I hope all is well in Switzerland.
I was after some more part advice, on pictures 8 & 9 you mention using new soft/fast recovery diodes for the secondary PS for D501 & D502.
What were the diodes you use here?
 
I think they were BYV-26 B from Vishay.
Are D501 D502 the double diodes ? If yes then just make them up with 2 single diodes.
You can just see them at the bottom of pics 8 and 9 of the first post.
 
Hello down under :)
I did make a parts list, on paper, and then I included parts for two more amps in my Mouser order, so it's all mixed up....
But here is the paper version with a few comments. Use at your own risk ! And better check what is actually there in your amp.
My choice was mostly Elna Silmic II, apart for the small ones (less then 2.2 or 3.3 uf) where I use the Wima MKS2. And there are a couple of bipolars, I used Nichicon MUSE there.

Hope this helps.

View attachment 1016656


I'm not sure why my pics get downsized so much....hope you can read this.

Oh, and welcome to AK !
Hi
I also have a SU-3500 that I want to mod .
I noticed that in the original design 8 electrolytics are non polar 6 of 0,47uf and 2 of 47 uf .
I don't understand why you replace some small value polar ones with film .
For example you replaced the 0,68 polar with film ....
Technics already used 8 non polar electros... so I don't understand the benefit of replacing polar small values with film by working against the original design .
I don't want to damage this amp ...
Thanks
 
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