not sure which caps you are referring to but in my fisher i had a 3 legged cap. turned out to be something like two 15mfd sections with a shared ground connection. i just used two separate caps and its fine.
jimbofish. that's the power supply board. The blue ones are the Main filter caps. the only reason they have the third leg is stabilization as they are laid down instead of being upright due to height considerations. It's laid out in the chassis slightly different than the 500TX but it's close enough I can ID the boards and components.
The blue ones are more likely 2000uf/55v, replace with 2200uf/80v
The yellow ones if same are either 1000uf/35v or 500uf/70v, I've got examples of both that are the same size.
the yellow one in the 2nd photo is the 1000uf that connects to the amp. It looks like an axial as I only see one lead per end. Replace with an axial,and increase to 1500uf/75v or 80v.
Double check the values with what you have on your boards. But replace all of them. The only analogy I can come up with right now is a Corvette on 45 year old tires. They look good but the internal degradation of the material is a smoking gun. Try and run them hard and they WILL BLOW!!
For those 5 caps you're talking less than 10 buck plus shipping.
Get the values off the caps, I can't read them thru the glare from the flash. I need the UF and the V, VDC, or the WVDC values. And I'll get you the part #'s you need to order them.
Larry
Parts finally arrived today!
Spent the evening leisurely soldering them in... didn't quite go exactly as I was picturing, but it looks neat to me. Pics attached.
The pic of the old caps shows at least 2 of them suspicious, the blue one on the right and the yellow one above it. The leakage from the yellow one explains the stains on inside of the bottom cover. :yes:
Any precautions I should take before I plug it in and fire it up?
REDO THE LEADS ON ALL OF THEM! Too much exposed lead with voltage on them. Undo the leads one at a time slip on a length of heatshrink, and solder the lead back on. Leave enough slack to lay the caps down, and take the strain off the leads hanging them in the air. Use a piece of wire and splice one side, then heatshrink it all. You want NO EXPOSED LEADS!
Once you do that, put it on the dim bulb tester, and check for shorts, opens, lights, NO SMOKE. If everything checks out, then fire it up on Wall voltage.
Larry
:dammit:
Can you explain the reason for this? Is the problem the length of the leads or that they're not insulated, or both?