tell me about my new fisher 450T receiver

not sure which caps you are referring to but in my fisher i had a 3 legged cap. turned out to be something like two 15mfd sections with a shared ground connection. i just used two separate caps and its fine.
 
not sure which caps you are referring to but in my fisher i had a 3 legged cap. turned out to be something like two 15mfd sections with a shared ground connection. i just used two separate caps and its fine.

The one in question are the 2 large blue ones in the 1st pic. The 2 wires on the left end are marked + & -. There is a third wire coming out of the center on the opposite end. As Larry pointed out, it's not electrical. The terminal is a dead end... at least that's what it appears to be.
 
jimbofish. that's the power supply board. The blue ones are the Main filter caps. the only reason they have the third leg is stabilization as they are laid down instead of being upright due to height considerations. It's laid out in the chassis slightly different than the 500TX but it's close enough I can ID the boards and components.

The blue ones are more likely 2000uf/55v, replace with 2200uf/80v
The yellow ones if same are either 1000uf/35v or 500uf/70v, I've got examples of both that are the same size.

the yellow one in the 2nd photo is the 1000uf that connects to the amp. It looks like an axial as I only see one lead per end. Replace with an axial,and increase to 1500uf/75v or 80v.

Double check the values with what you have on your boards. But replace all of them. The only analogy I can come up with right now is a Corvette on 45 year old tires. They look good but the internal degradation of the material is a smoking gun. Try and run them hard and they WILL BLOW!!
For those 5 caps you're talking less than 10 buck plus shipping.

Get the values off the caps, I can't read them thru the glare from the flash. I need the UF and the V, VDC, or the WVDC values. And I'll get you the part #'s you need to order them.


Larry
 
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jimbofish. that's the power supply board. The blue ones are the Main filter caps. the only reason they have the third leg is stabilization as they are laid down instead of being upright due to height considerations. It's laid out in the chassis slightly different than the 500TX but it's close enough I can ID the boards and components.

The blue ones are more likely 2000uf/55v, replace with 2200uf/80v
The yellow ones if same are either 1000uf/35v or 500uf/70v, I've got examples of both that are the same size.

the yellow one in the 2nd photo is the 1000uf that connects to the amp. It looks like an axial as I only see one lead per end. Replace with an axial,and increase to 1500uf/75v or 80v.

Double check the values with what you have on your boards. But replace all of them. The only analogy I can come up with right now is a Corvette on 45 year old tires. They look good but the internal degradation of the material is a smoking gun. Try and run them hard and they WILL BLOW!!
For those 5 caps you're talking less than 10 buck plus shipping.

Get the values off the caps, I can't read them thru the glare from the flash. I need the UF and the V, VDC, or the WVDC values. And I'll get you the part #'s you need to order them.


Larry

Clipped off the stabilizer on the blue ones and found the ID on the bottom. :sigh: Both are 2000uf 55v. These are radial.
The yellow ones are 1000uf 40v, 500uf 80v, and 1000uf 60v for the one on the other side. These are all axial.
 
The new caps WILL be 30-40% SMALLER, so don't get twisted up that they are the wrong sizes/values (they won't be). I don't know how much $$ you want to spend so I am going with as close to the values I can get, as inexpensive as I can and still get decent caps. I haven't had problems with Nichicons yet. I figure if Mark the Fixer and Echowars uses them, they are good stuff. No real boost in capacitance or voltage. Next higher as the original values/voltages are more likely NLA. Also AXIAL's generally cost 30-50% more than Radials of the same capacitance and voltage so I'm gonna give you lists for both.

As original. Mixed Radial and Axials.
1.)The Blue 2000uf/55v will be 2200/63. Nichicon UFW Series Part # 647-UFW1J222MHD @ $1.77ea. RADIAL

2&3.)1000uf/40 and 1000uf/60V will be 1000uf/63V NichiconTVX Series Part #647-TVX1J102MCD @ 2.77ea. AXIAL Order 2.

4.) 500uf/80 will be 1000uf/100V. Nichicon TVX Series Part # 647-TVX2A102MDD. $4.76ea. This is an odd duck in an axial. The next least expensive is $13.68. This is an AXIAL.

Total 12.07 & Shipping. about $6.00 for USPS Priority.

ALL RADIALS:

1.)2200/63. Nichicon UFW Series Part # 647-UFW1J222MHD @ $1.77ea.
2&3.)1000/40 & 1000/60. Nichicon 1000/63 UPW Series Part # 647-UPW1J102MHD @$1.19ea Order 2.
4.)500/80. Nichicon 560uf/100V UPW Series Part # 647-UPW2A561MHD @1.35ea.
Total $5.50 plus Shipping. About $6. usps priority mail.

Both lists are for Mouser. Part #'s are the Mouser #.

I looked at Panasonics and I couldn't find 1/2 the stuff. Vishay was way higher, especially the axials. I put radials in all spots on mine and just extended the leads if needed. Usually I put the + lead in short and extend the - lead with heatshrink tubing on it. Glue it down and your good to go. Or it $$ is no problem go with the AXIALS.

On the one on the bottom it looks as the + lead is attached to a terminal strip. If so GOOD! You CAN use a radial here, as you attach the - to the Terminal strip mount (which is a ground anyway).

On most all capacitors now the striped side is NEGATIVE (-) and axials will have an arrow pointing to - too. Nichicon adds a - sign to the stripe. Just make sure the +goes to + and the - goes to -. the old caps should be marked on the end or one of the leads will be painted to usually for negative. Look on the end caps, next to the leads.

Any problems let me know and I'll walk ya thru it.


Larry
 
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Oh man, thanks a lot for looking all those up. I really appreciate it. :thmbsp:

You're right about the single one being on a terminal strip... The bracket that holds the + terminal has a ground terminal that I can use for the other lead.

I believe I can also turn those other 2 yellow ones on the other side 90 deg, one facing each way, and bend the leads into a T and use radials there too, so I can order all radials. :yes:

Before I place the order, I need to gather the list of other stuff I need and see if I can get it all at once. $6.95 for shipping on $7.27 worth of stuff... sheesh! :sigh:

BTW, do you know the specs for those axial lamps that are in the meter/stereo lamp holder? Both of mine are out.
 
Lights. No. Never had mine opened up. Should be on the parts list, if you have the manual. I'll look in my manual and see what it says later today.
 
The meter lamps are integral to the meter and must be replaced as a unit according to the manual. No part # given or spec given for the lamps. You could take voltage readings of the leads and see what you get.

Best thing for you to do is to find a manual. Then you can go further than what you have so far, and have the correct info handy.

Larry
 
The 2 lamps are mounted in a square plastic block and are soldered in, so I'm guessing that's what has to be replaced as a unit. It snaps onto the back of the meter, but it's not part of the meter. I remember seeing them for sale somewhere...
With the lamps burned out, the voltage reading won't be correct though, or will it?
 
Yep that block needs to be replaced as a unit, unless you can find the individual bulbs and solder them in. Seem to remember a 9 volt circuit in there for those lights, although the schematic is kinda of vague for voltage, so they may be 8.3 V and somewhere in the neighborhood or .125 or .250 a or 125 to 250 ma.

Put the meter leads on one lead and the other on chassis ground when you have it on FM or AM. That block should only light when in FM or AM.

Larry
 
Finally got a chance to place the order at Mauser today. Hopefully it will be here by early next week.

At this point, I'm only replacing the larger caps that are easy to get to w/o taking boards out of the chassis. I noticed another smaller cap on the FM auto-tune board that looked a bit suspicious and easy to replace. It is marked 50/35 which I take as 50uf/35v. :yes: :no: :scratch2: The closest cap I could find at Mouser was 50/50 and it cost more than any of the others. A 47uf/35v cap was available at only $.34 so I added one to the order. Will this cap work as a replacement? With a 20% + or - rating, it would seem to be within range, yes? If not I'm only out $.34.

It looks like I should be able to replace those lamps in the assy. PE has 6v, 8v, & 12v lamps, all at 100ma. I'd expect the meter lamps to be the same as the dial lamps, but the stereo lamp might be different. I'll have to wait till the new caps are installed to check for a voltage range.
 
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the 47uf is ok to replace with.

I'd get in the manual and double check the voltages for those lamps. IIRC the Meter and stereo Lamps are something like 25v?!!?!?!? If you haven't got a manual, DO get one.

Larry
 
Parts finally arrived today! :banana:

Spent the evening leisurely soldering them in... didn't quite go exactly as I was picturing, but it looks neat to me. Pics attached.

The pic of the old caps shows at least 2 of them suspicious, the blue one on the right and the yellow one above it. The leakage from the yellow one explains the stains on inside of the bottom cover. :yes:

Any precautions I should take before I plug it in and fire it up?
 

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Parts finally arrived today! :banana:

Spent the evening leisurely soldering them in... didn't quite go exactly as I was picturing, but it looks neat to me. Pics attached.

The pic of the old caps shows at least 2 of them suspicious, the blue one on the right and the yellow one above it. The leakage from the yellow one explains the stains on inside of the bottom cover. :yes:

Any precautions I should take before I plug it in and fire it up?

REDO THE LEADS ON ALL OF THEM! Too much exposed lead with voltage on them. Undo the leads one at a time slip on a length of heatshrink, and solder the lead back on. Leave enough slack to lay the caps down, and take the strain off the leads hanging them in the air. Use a piece of wire and splice one side, then heatshrink it all. You want NO EXPOSED LEADS!

Once you do that, put it on the dim bulb tester, and check for shorts, opens, lights, NO SMOKE. If everything checks out, then fire it up on Wall voltage.

Larry
 
REDO THE LEADS ON ALL OF THEM! Too much exposed lead with voltage on them. Undo the leads one at a time slip on a length of heatshrink, and solder the lead back on. Leave enough slack to lay the caps down, and take the strain off the leads hanging them in the air. Use a piece of wire and splice one side, then heatshrink it all. You want NO EXPOSED LEADS!

Once you do that, put it on the dim bulb tester, and check for shorts, opens, lights, NO SMOKE. If everything checks out, then fire it up on Wall voltage.

Larry

:dammit:

Can you explain the reason for this? Is the problem the length of the leads or that they're not insulated, or both?
 
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:dammit:

Can you explain the reason for this? Is the problem the length of the leads or that they're not insulated, or both?

Some of Both, although not insulating them is a BIG No-NO. If they had been mounted vertically into the holes up against the board, no problem.

The ideal way would have been to use axials for the other 3. What you did with the 1st two is good except they have no insulation. Makes it hard on techs when they brush up against a live lead, unintentionally.


And you are hanging the caps in space that aren't designed to hang in space. Lengthen the leads a bit and lay them down, using some hot glue. Insulate the leads (this will lessen the possibility of the lead contacting something metal should it get dropped. AND if you sell it, you lessen your liability.


Larry
 
If you have some old caps or resistors with full size leads cut the leads off and make a loop on one end. Loop the end of the lead on the new cap, and interlock them together. Clamp down on the loops to get it tight and solder. Heatshrink the whole thing, and install.

Larry
 
Fisher 450t

Jimbofish.
I also have a Fisher 450t that i am restoring. The meter lamps are 6v. JKL part #403. I have already rerplaced mine and they work great. Just chip away some of the glue around solder connections, then diag off the old axial leads.
I replaced dial lamps too. 6v JKL- GF70 glass fuse type. The replacement lamps are a little smaller in diameter but pinch the clamps a little tighter and they work great.
My receiver looks almost mint. Even the autotune works great after cleaning. The only problem I have is 'stereo' reception. The lamp is good, but 'mono' is all I get.
Does anyone have access to service manual?
Thanks in advance.:banana:
 
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