The Biggest Lafayette Receiver: LR120DB

Hang in there, Chris...

One note to add - IMHO the LR-120DB's ergonomics could use some work WRT the volume control - it would be nice if it were large and either centered or on one end or another. As it is, its buried and indistinguishable there on the front panel.

On the other hand, the rows of mini pushbuttons on either side of the dial glass look pretty cool. Just wish I didn't have to go searching for the volume control every time I use it.
 
Well, the "Big Laff" arrived today......damaged! Despite my request, it was packed in crumple newspaper with no side protection. It had been dropped on the back so that the heatsink (which is MASSIVE) was pushed in a bit. I think it can be pounded out.

However, NO SOUND. It turned on, all the lights work, the meters work, the relay clicks and it receives in Stereo. But, there is absolutely no sound, not even hiss or crackling. So, it will be on its way to the teck tomorrow. Worth saving. I'll post photos once she's ready to appear in public. :D

-- Chris
 
Odd that it would have no sound if the relay clicks but I've seen weirder things happen. Possibly defective part in the preamp, dirty or defective switch. This unit doesn't have any jumpers if I recall does it?
 
Chris,

The defect on my power button is such that the receiver is on all the time, even though the power button does not latch in the 'in' position. However, to get sound out of the unit the power button must be held in the 'in' position; otherwise, although the receiver is on, no output. You might want to play around with that switch and see if you can get some output...

Bummer about the damage, at least is sounds repairable...let us know how it goes!
 
sounds like a great buy for $62.... that's a third of what i paid for my yamaha cr-2040 at the same output 120x2.... can't see how you can go wrong...

i agree on lafayette. i used to shop there a lot back in the 70's... had some decent equipment... then they just disappeared.
 
yrly said:
Odd that it would have no sound if the relay clicks but I've seen weirder things happen. Possibly defective part in the preamp, dirty or defective switch. This unit doesn't have any jumpers if I recall does it?

yrly -- As usual, with most things electronic, I think your guts instincts are correct. I'm taking it in to the Tech now. I had a chance to open it up and, although no Toroidal or Dual Mono, the parts I saw were pretty nice. Each of the toggles switches is by Alps and they have a very nice file. The heatsink is MASSIVE, however, there are only 4 output transistors, not the usual 8. I wonder why they went that route? The tuna is only a 4 gang, but, the overall build quality, while certainly not tops, is not bad, as you indicated.

ISoldIt! did a dreadful job of packing such that the rear heatsink is pushed in and the front faceplate is slightly askew. I'll see if my Tech can get then back into proper alingment. When I first to got it, I was about to "put it out on the curb" but something inside told me: "give her a chance", so I'll go with that instinct. Thanks for the support!

-- Chris
 
I wouldn't judge a tuner just by the number of gangs, I learned this a while ago. I've got a large number of TOTL receivers, some, like the big Fishers for instance sporting 5 gang FM sections, yet the Olson RA-250 which sports a mere 4 gang cap is by far the best tuner I've ever used even up against standalones. Sensitive enough to get stations over 60 miles away in stereo, yet the rejection is good enough that these stations can be right next to a powerful station on the dial and it can receive both. Truly an amazing piece of work. Once it gets fixed you can decide from there, the performance is what counts as always not the on paper specs. Just out of curiousity when you take these to Tom do you have him align the tuners?

As far as the 4 vs. 8 outputs, some like the 2SB600/2SD555 pair would be more than capable of a 120wpc output in a pair, still they could have used 8 even with those as in the Fisher RS-1060, most in the power range did (Sanyo, Fisher, Marantz, Sansui etc.). This power class though remains my favorite, lots of options and very few losers.

I really think you should try to get your hands on an MCS 3125 and Fisher RS-1060 which are two of the best sounding ones of this power level, I'm not sure where you taste in sound leans towards, but the Fisher will do the warmer sound along the lines of a Marantz, whereas the MCS will do a very clean dynamic sound but despite that isn't harsh.

I hope this Lafayette works out as I'm curious to know your impressions of it as to how it relates to some models I'm more familiar with, and if indeed it does sound like a Luxman (if that is indeed who built it).
 
Well.....it turns about that the problem was a couple of blown fuses on the underside such that no power was going to the outputs. My Tech put in new fuses and fired her up. The intial reading was clipping at 160 wpc at 1 kHz. She clearly met her spec of 120 wpc 20-20kHz @ 8 Ohms. My Tech asked me how much I paid and when I told him $62.00, he said: "You scored!!!!". (He has not been so kind with some of the other orphans I've dragged in.)

So, now it's time to get out my trusted hammer and pound out the damage to the rear panel where the heatsink got pushed in. For some reason, I'm really eager to do this. Then this "Big Laff" will be ready for her photos. I'm really glad I trusted my gut instinct and didn't put her "out on the curb". I have a feeling that this one, because of how rare and unique it is, will be one I will really cherish....like yrly's beloved Audiograph.

-- Chris
 
Vintage Stereo, I sorry about your site. It was coming along very nice! Well, at least all your receivers didn't go down with it, right?
 
OK....here we go. I was able to pound out the crush damage to the rear of the Big Laff such that it is no longer visible and everything squares up correctly. Next, she needs a good cleaning, but she was eager to show off hef "stuff" so, here she is, the Big Laff:

http://ckopfell.com/LafayetteLR120.htm

The one-piece heatsink is absolutely massive and thick, certainly the most complex heatsink extrusion I have yet seen. I had to remove it to pound out the sheet metal.

At the point where the heatsink screws into the sheetmetal I wondering if there is some type of washer material that I could use to minimize the transfer of heat from the heatsink to the sheetmetal. Any ideas?

The Big Laff certainly qualifies as a "Monster Receiver" and for $62.00 I'm very happy with her. Definately a "way under the radar" piece. Now, for the clean up......

-- Chris
 
SoCal Sam said:
If you isolate the heatsink from the chassis, won't you reduce the cooling capacity?

Not sure. Ever since your R-2000 project, I've been getting into ways to control or minimize heat.
 
CUlater said:
Or rather, it fired up, since the only problem I've found is a bum power switch that is stuck on.

Oddly enough, I just purchased a LR-120DB today locally and it has the same issue. The only way to turn it off is to unplug it--the power switch won't fully disengage.

Have you by any chance found a way to fix this problem or is it best to just turn it on and off via a power strip?

Anyway, that seems to be the only real issue that mine has. The controls need to sprayed down with DeOxit (very noisy) and I'm in the process of cleaning off the thick layer of yellow nicotine gunk (any suggestions other than soapy water?) I also need to find a way to clean the grime off of the internal parts.

There's obviously a bit of work involved with this one, but I only paid $30 for the damn thing. I'm expecting good things from it.
 
Congrats - $30 makes you the winner in the value sweepstakes! :banana:

I haven't worked on it yet, just using a PC power switch center to turn it on and off for now. I've gotten an aversion to using the built in switches on many of my receivers anyways, as I've had more power switches fail than anything else on them. I pick up those PC power switch things whenever I find 'em cheap for this purpose.

I do remember that when I was looking at the switch it being an Alps model, so hopefully someone makes an equivalent replacment...LMK if you find a replacement!

Anybody out there have a service manual?
 
CUlater said:
Congrats - $30 makes you the winner in the value sweepstakes! :banana:

I haven't worked on it yet, just using a PC power switch center to turn it on and off for now. I've gotten an aversion to using the built in switches on many of my receivers anyways, as I've had more power switches fail than anything else on them. I pick up those PC power switch things whenever I find 'em cheap for this purpose.

I do remember that when I was looking at the switch it being an Alps model, so hopefully someone makes an equivalent replacment...LMK if you find a replacement!

Anybody out there have a service manual?

All of the switches and pots on the LR-120DB are made by Alps. It's a quality Receiver. Very nice. Exceeded my expectations once the damage was repaired.
 

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Well, I cleaned all of the pots and switches and fired it up today. It sounds very nice! I'm very impressed. I'm still trying to get all of the nicotine gunk off of the faceplate, though. It's going to take a bit more elbow grease, I'm afraid. The hardest part to clean is the little panels on either side of the tuner dial. I've been scrubbing the hell out of 'em, and they're still yellow. The good news is that the thick layer of crud helped keep both the faceplate and cabinet nearly scratch-free!

I just bought a cheap power strip for it. I don't plan to bother with the power switch at all.
 
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