The Bottlehead and the 6N1P

Nick Dangerous

New Member
Hey fellas... about time I started posting in this forum, huh? :rolleyes:

Had any fun with the 6N1P?

Doc uses the 6N1P in his Parabee 300b monoblock kit. In contrast, I built the Paraglow 2A3 monoblocks which use the 12AT7.

Word on the street is: The 12AT7 inherently sucks.

The up-and-coming Paraglow II will use the 6N1P where one half shunt-regulates the other half. I got the jump on it. John Tucker is sending me the parts to do the conversion. Others have made the leap to a 6N1Peed Paraglow II and the general opinion is overwhelmingly, unanimously positive beyond all description.

The 6N1P is a current production tube that is super cheap. It's a relatively new design, so no NOS exists to choose from. I wonder since the word on the street is so damn good, why don't more headphone and speaker amps use it?

I'll report on the difference after I make the swap. Could be another week or so.
 
Out whoring around again... better stick close to home...

I would tend to agree... the 12at7 is not the best type I've come across. "The 6N1P is a current production tube that is super cheap. It's a relatively new design, so no NOS exists" - well, that's both good and bad. Half the fun is researching and then finding those obscure vintages (which aren't always expensive but often are)... though as you said, current production is cheap(er) as there is more stock than demand.

Ahh... the joys of tube rolling...

MikE
 
I've heard that the 6N1P sounds better than many expensive 6DJ8/6922 NOS variants. If so, it's a miracle. Can't wait to get mine installed...
 
6DJ8s are over rated but since they are like a multi purpose tube have become popular in audio over the last decade or so. They have been around for a long time but were not used in audio circuits till recently because??????
I don't have much gear that uses ATs or AYs but have never noticed a any bad performance in them. The ATs,Ys,Xs and the industrial equivilants like the 5751s are all in the same family and depending on who made them when with what can make a big difference.
As far as ATs being bad I have never heard that but I have about 6DJ8s and RCA 12AU7 cleartops(that I can vouch for, they were muddy,distorted and had nothing much going for them but a rep).
I have steared clear of gear with 6DJ8s but have quite a few top of the line low harmonics ruggedized version GEs I pulled from a junker TEK scope if anyone needs some.
Trends in audio are funny but I do believe the tube rollers are much more aware of why things are trendy, which are more reliable, what can sound better in a given application that most SS guys.
I am sure that there must be some silicone switchers out there as it does not seem complicated and some brands ought to sound better than others but I never hear of it. Anybody else?
As for this 6N1P is it an Eastern Block military version of a 12AT7? Is a drop in or do you have to rewire the socket and alter the circuits in other ways.
It is not listed in my RCA or GE books or my sub book.
My buddy that has been rolling 12AT7s might be very interested in this.
The caps we are going after are big oil and paper, high voltage that are used to tweak the Paramours, so you might want to get in on this.
 
oil caps?

Originally posted by Thatch_Ear
........The caps we are going after are big oil and paper, high voltage that are used to tweak the Paramours, so you might want to get in on this.

Thatch,

Did I miss something? Are you saying this in general, or are you speaking of a specific surplus lot offering?

I've got enough Sprague Vitamin-Q can type with porcelain bushings, and also PCI's of the same appearance in the newer technology using plastic films and kraft paper dielectrics in stock for my own experiomental use as coupling caps, etc., but was just wondering if these are the types you are referring to for audio use. These caps are all rolled foil and dielectric with inserted tab technology so they are inductive (fine for supply filters). You can get non-inductive (extended foil) versions from PCI (Plastic Caps Inc, Chicago), which would be superior for coupling applications but they are not common on the surplus market and new are quite pricey.

Rob
 
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These are basically the big oil high voltage caps used with electric motors. We were looking for 4 uFs at 400 vdc or higher. I don't know where in the curcuit it went but my guess is between the OPT and the plate of the 2A3. Very nice tweek by the way.
I guess they could be oil and foil but I am not sure. I have only used them in power supplies with chokes acting as the main tool for reducing AC ripple because these though large in size have low capasitance.
 
low voltage capacitors

Thatch,

Ahhhh, motor run caps (preferred as the motor start caps are usually just non polarized electrolytics). Yeah these would be a good 'tweek' except I don't think they are anything exotic like extended foil low inductance, they don't need to be to change phase in a motor winding at 60Hz, but they ARE designed to carry lots of current without heating. If that is the case then there are EVEN BETTER caps out there to tweak these amps! I'll have to look at my PCI catalog which is out in the shop at the moment.

BTW, you threw me when you said 'HV' caps. 400 volts ain't high voltage. Almost all non-electrolytic capacitors are rated at least that high for tube equipment, often 630 volts nowadays in fact. Don't call a capacitor HV until you get over a kV. Until recently I worked a lot with 'HV' capacitors and some were 60,000 VDC etc.

I've got a box of new 5uF @ 5kV PCI oil filled jobs with polyester film and oil (I believe) dielectric in stock. These may be ideal for an electric chair amplifier project. :)

You are right that for PS use you don't get many uF's in the huge can with the oil filled jobs. I believe electrolytics are the way to go in most PS applications where they can survive the environmental conditions, ...not an issue in a home hi-fi.

Rob
 
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Some of the caps I get out there are 1600VAC and I have no idea what the big ones are since they look like they weigh in at about 100 lbs each. You would like those for your toys! I'll have to write down what they are the next mini road trip we take out there.
Thing is Rob I can get a never been used PCP free 10 uF GE 1600 VAC for $2.50 cents. So a 4uF 350 VAC at $2.50 is a really cheap tweek especially since the SCR cap it replaced was probably 4 or more times the cost and does not come close in sound.
And I know you play with Teslas but in todays market most electrolitics are not multi caps and tend to be less than 100 VDC. You just can't walk into Radio Shack and get a 3 X 20 uF at 450 volts anymore. That is why I called a 350VAC cap high voltage.
 
Thatch,

I know that most electronics now run on very low voltages, and that you cannot buy electronic components any more at Radio Shaft, but do you also call a 0.05 uF @ 400 WVDC wax paper cap from an old tube radio a high voltage capacitor? I certainly don't.

I appreciate the offer on the 1600 volt caps but I don't really need them just now.

At $2.50 a piece your motor run caps as a suitable sub for sonically improving a tube amp is really cheap. Nothing wrong with that! For a good deal on capacitors check this page out. http://www.73.com/a/index2.shtml There is a surplus speaker page under the 'S' section worth keeping an eye on as well.

Rob
 
Sasaki,
This was done to the 2A3 amps and I am not sure why the man who showed the tweek was doing so. He did make the kits my friend is using. I would think that this might be public domaine but the guy might be making money getting Paramours to perform better. I don't want to step on any toes but will let you know as soon as I can find out.

Rob,
A .005/400 is a protection device and I use even at least a .1 to float a ground on a chassis, so no. Even though it is rated to 400V it barely counts as a capasitor. Anything that has some capasitance to it that you can use with chokes or electrolitics that will handle more voltabe than it takes to run a 300B or like triodes I consider to be high voltage. First of all it is not only rated to handle it but does, second of all not only is it rated to handle it but will kill you because it has high voltabe running through it.
I think you guys that fart around with transmitting tubes to drive speakers are nuts. I would be sitting in a plastic chair on a rubber matt and wearing rubber gloves. Anything hot enough to leap out and bite you like a snake is too much for my limited knowledge.
 
high voltage safety

Originally posted by Thatch_Ear

Rob,
A .005/400 is a protection device and I use even at least a .1 to float a ground on a chassis, so no. Even though it is rated to 400V it barely counts as a capasitor. Anything that has some capasitance to it that you can use with chokes or electrolitics that will handle more voltabe than it takes to run a 300B or like triodes I consider to be high voltage. First of all it is not only rated to handle it but does, second of all not only is it rated to handle it but will kill you because it has high voltabe running through it.
I think you guys that fart around with transmitting tubes to drive speakers are nuts. I would be sitting in a plastic chair on a rubber matt and wearing rubber gloves. Anything hot enough to leap out and bite you like a snake is too much for my limited knowledge.

Thatch,

You seem to be referring to the energy storage capacity of a capacitor which is measured in Joules, rather than the voltage rating. The capacitance of your body on rubber soles is capable of storing 50,000 volts when you shuffle across a carpet in a dry room but the energy storage is so low that even though you make a 3/8" spark to a grounded metal object when you approach, you don't get electrocuted.

BTW, that insignificant 0.005uF cap if charged to 50kVDC would store 6.25 Joules. That is more than enough to blow you away permanently.

You are absolutely correct that working with the voltages and currents that apply to transmitting tube audio amplifiers require extra special care and attention. The energy levels stored in the power supply filters combined with the relatively high voltage that negates the safety factor of skin resistance makes such circuits beyond lethal and you seldom get a chance to tell about accidental contact. Such circuits should be built only by the most experienced in safe handling of high voltage circuits, and it doen't hurt to have a 'buddy' around to tend to your first aid should an accident occur. On the same theme any products sold to the consumer with such high voltage circuits and enclosures have to be very well designed so that all but the most determined nutcase cannot get himdelf zapped by accident. Open chassis with xmitting tubes using plate caps for example are a big no-no here. Even amps running common, almost household 6146's or 807's can be an accident waiting to happen in an open configuration with as much as 750 volts on the cap.

The drawback with tubes (yes I'll reluctantly admit there is actually ONE) is that they are inherently high impedance devices and to control any power, relatively high voltages are needed.

Even circuits for 45's or 300B's can give you a really unpleasant shock experience so it just makes sense to play safe at all times when building this gear or working on it with covers removed. Standing on a rubber mat, especially if your shop is on concrete floor is a good safety step. One hand in a back pocket while poking in a circuit with HV with a test lead is another good idea. The idea being that accidental contact won't cause the lethal current to take a path through your chest and possibly fibrillating or stopping your heart.

I have worked with high powers at up to a million volts in my lab and currents of 150,000 amperes at 15,000 volts and have never gotten a shock because I was super careful. I will treat my 805 amp circuit with the same respect.

The photo below is the last 2 feet of a 7 foot long, 1/2 million volt streamer dancing on a welding cable ground wire the size of your thumb on a concrete floor in my HV lab. The current was short duration pulses but the pulses were tens of amperes, representing many megawatts of peak power. Around here we call this high voltage. :)

Rob
 
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Hey Rob, maybe next time I get out your way you can introduce me to the guy out back with the bolts in his neck.

:D Billf
 
I know that high voltage alone will not not disable you though it might not be comfortable. Grabbing a spark plug wire and becoming the ground isn't that bad and electrical fences for cattle can give you a great rush and is even more fun if you put your hand on a friends shoulder before you grab the wire.
But they have don't have any amperage to speak of. Its like the difference of being buzzed by a jet or having one hit you. Not knowing enough about what is under the hood of an amp besides 250 to 450 volts, some amperage and capasiters that will store it up and let it all loose very quickly I am not sure about getting buzzed(which aint fun) or hit, so I always assume I will get hit. I also make it a habit not to pee on wall sockets.
 
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