Whether it's worth the price or not is a matter of opinion.
The Idiot's Guide to Using DeOxit (revisited)
- Thread starter Arkay
- Start date
trikster
Well-Known Member
I would imagine the sockets and pins would be fine. Just make sure they are completely dry.
As for the tape heads, highest % of isopropyl alcohol you can find (91% or better) and cotton swabs. If you have easy access to the heads, camera lens tissue (I feel) does a better job cleaning.
Arthur Smith
Super Member
If you watch YouTube, there are some who spray it all over, everywhere. I call them as "restorers by can".
BrianKBaur
New Member
Depends? I generally use the green can w fader lube on pots and rotary switches. cleans and lubes in one step, but not the best for everything. Definitely not anything you don't want to remain a tad "greasy."
BrianKBaur
New Member
The secret to Parts Express is ordering $100 or more to get free shipping. AFTER you've used the constant supply of promo codes for 10% off or more of your total order. They sell everything except snake oil. Well, not much snake oil anyway. Best place to buy CL2 12 ga speaker wire ever.
"Honey, I am out of deoxit, but I need to also get this subwoofer driver to get free shipping on the order."
Jeff Archer
Member
I'll be doing this on my Pioneer SX 626!
JH Magnecord
Member
Get a $2.98 can of CRC "226" silicone lubricant and a can of CRC "Lectra Clean" (for $7.98: the BLUE CAN...not the red one to degrease engine parts) and give a small microburst of each into the pots'/switches' openings for the same result.
The notion of bathing the highly conductive innards -certainly around RELAY COILS- of an electronic component is what would really be IDIOTIC
.
[P.S. the thorough way to get 45 years of tarnish out of a RCA connector is: to unravel the excess off an end of a Q-tip and lightly coat it in metal polish and work the Q-tip inside the jack (until it's completely black); then, unravel a clean Q-tip to buff the inner pin until you can see the reflection inside from a light underneath while the bottom pan is off. Clean any residue out with more unravelled Q-tips dipped in mineral spirits then blow it out with a (manually-operated) can of $5.98 compressed air duster. It's a tedious process of a restoration...but it's a detail to make sure EVERYTHING MAKES 100% "NEW" CONTACT.]
The notion of bathing the highly conductive innards -certainly around RELAY COILS- of an electronic component is what would really be IDIOTIC
.[P.S. the thorough way to get 45 years of tarnish out of a RCA connector is: to unravel the excess off an end of a Q-tip and lightly coat it in metal polish and work the Q-tip inside the jack (until it's completely black); then, unravel a clean Q-tip to buff the inner pin until you can see the reflection inside from a light underneath while the bottom pan is off. Clean any residue out with more unravelled Q-tips dipped in mineral spirits then blow it out with a (manually-operated) can of $5.98 compressed air duster. It's a tedious process of a restoration...but it's a detail to make sure EVERYTHING MAKES 100% "NEW" CONTACT.]
Get a $2.98 can of CRC "226" silicone lubricant and a can of CRC "Lectra Clean" (for $7.98: the BLUE CAN...not the red one to degrease engine parts) and give a small microburst of each into the pots'/switches' openings for the same result.
The notion of bathing the highly conductive innards -certainly around RELAY COILS- of an electronic component is what would really be IDIOTIC
[P.S. the thorough way to get 45 years of tarnish out of a RCA connector is: to unravel the excess off an end of a Q-tip and lightly coat it in metal polish and work the Q-tip inside the jack (until it's completely black); then, unravel a clean Q-tip to buff the inner pin until you can see the reflection inside from a light underneath while the bottom pan is off. Clean any residue out with more unravelled Q-tips dipped in mineral spirits then blow it out with a (manually-operated) can of $5.98 compressed air duster. It's a tedious process of a restoration...but it's a detail to make sure EVERYTHING MAKES 100% "NEW" CONTACT.]
Get a $2.98 can of CRC "226" silicone lubricant and a can of CRC "Lectra Clean" (for $7.98: the BLUE CAN...not the red one to degrease engine parts) and give a small microburst of each into the pots'/switches' openings for the same result.
The notion of bathing the highly conductive innards -certainly around RELAY COILS- of an electronic component is what would really be IDIOTIC
[P.S. the thorough way to get 45 years of tarnish out of a RCA connector is: to unravel the excess off an end of a Q-tip and lightly coat it in metal polish and work the Q-tip inside the jack (until it's completely black); then, unravel a clean Q-tip to buff the inner pin until you can see the reflection inside from a light underneath while the bottom pan is off. Clean any residue out with more unravelled Q-tips dipped in mineral spirits then blow it out with a (manually-operated) can of $5.98 compressed air duster. It's a tedious process of a restoration...but it's a detail to make sure EVERYTHING MAKES 100% "NEW" CONTACT.]
Newbie here. Was at an estate sale and bought this Realistic STA-2100 to replace my now defunct SA-500. The thing is basically perfect sans the low filter button. I have to mess with it a bit to get both channels to play at the same time (regardless of which section I am using). I was hoping someone can tell me if using deoxit on a spring loaded push button the same as described here for switches is the right thing to do. Never have worked on electronics before and may end up selling due to divorce threats from the wife (Darn thing just begs to be played at half volume). Is this something for a novice to try-n-fix, or should I just pass it along to someone with skills.
M1Tommy
Member
New guy posting. This is great info. I took the original guide, and made a document out of it, for easy printing and my reading later tonight.
I have it in MS Word and Adobe PDF, in case anyone wants it.
Thanks y'all!!! I apprec. the information and reading the "lessons learned" here.
Tommy
I have it in MS Word and Adobe PDF, in case anyone wants it.
Thanks y'all!!! I apprec. the information and reading the "lessons learned" here.
Tommy
Welcome to AK! 
Speakernutz
Member
Beautiful post and I Thank You for it ! Where can I buy DeOxit in the Royal Oak Ferndale area of Michigan ? I’m about out and I don’t want to start the cleaning of my Harmon Kardon HK505 without a fresh can in hand .
You can order DeoxIT from one of our distributors in Michigan: SF Supply, Audio Advisor or Apollo AV. Here is the link to distributors info: https://caig.com/distributors/
RTally
Speaker addict
Check to see if there is a Guitar Center or some other musicians store in your area. They will likely carry it on the shelf. My local Guitar Center does.
Speakernutz
Member
Thanks tons ! I’ll be checking around and post my connection for it here when I find it .
EightiesGirl
Active Member
Since I'm new to this, I too have seen those videos is it ok to spray it everywhere including the boards and all or did they just screw it up?
it's great for that
does your new Realistic have the round transformer? If it does that is a killer receiver
I've been looking for one of those with the round transformer the later ones had to change that and I don't think they sound as good
GREAT score
