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The Official Elcaset thread!

Discussion in 'Tape' started by Bigerik, Jan 10, 2010.

  1. 62vauxhall

    62vauxhall AK Subscriber Subscriber

    Messages:
    2,003
    I only had the pleasure of visiting the insides of my EL-7 the one time but removing the hubs was necessary. If I remember right, the face plate must come off and that exposes holes directly beneath the hubs. There are set screws holding the hubs on the shaft and those holes allow access. I also think I recall there being two set screws per hub - 90 degrees apart. .

    Loosening them requires a very small hex key/Alan wrench. It is smaller than that I use to remove knobs from potentiometer shafts. I had to buy a set of small hex keys from an RC hobby store in order to get one that small. It was nearly too short to reach the set screw but there was just enough to grip with a pair of pliers in order to turn it.

    You will need to unfasten the back plate of the cassette well. Not actually take it out, but provide sufficient "wiggle room" to get the hubs out.

    Good luck with your project but I recently read that the EL-7 is easier to service because there is no mechanical linkage. Maybe do that one first?
     

     

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  2. Randeyman

    Randeyman New Member

    Messages:
    5
    I sincerely appreciate the response and suggestions. I have not yet begun to work on my EL-7 but as you say the drive mechanics are totally different from the 5 and the 7. Actually the drive system in the 5 is mostly identical to the EL-4. I have the .pdf versions of the repair manuals for both the 5 and the 7. The small set screw you described is certainly in the EL7 but I cannot find any sort of similar thing for the EL5. Attached is a picture snip from the manual showing the exploded view. Also attached is a photo of the reels as they exist. My thought is that they are somehow pressed fit on the metal shafts/axles, but I am confused as to how this works since they freely rotate. I guess there is a hidden bearing part inside the reel assembly. So... any thoughts on how I can remove it?
    EL-5 reel spindles.JPG
     

    Attached Files:

  3. 62vauxhall

    62vauxhall AK Subscriber Subscriber

    Messages:
    2,003
    Interesting that the hubs differ between Sony Elcaset models.

    I assume you've removed the spindle caps as shown in the diagram?

    If that on it's own does not allow removal of the hub spindles, the only thing I can think of is a keeper washer being beneath the cap. Something akin tho those nearly invisible clear plastic or black ones which do the same job on (compact) cassette deck hubs spindles.

    If that is the case, gripping the spindle between thumb and forefinger then pulling may be what's needed - extracting the hub and keeper washer simultaneously.

    That diagram does depict what might be construed as two such plastic washers behind that disc/spindle assembly. But since they are behind, I can't visualize them preventing the spindle from sliding off.

    Unfortunately without having the unit in front of me, I can only speculate.

    Your photo shows soft touch buttons. I thought an EL-5 had piano keys?
     
  4. Randeyman

    Randeyman New Member

    Messages:
    5
    I am thinking that the EL7 is so different from the 5 is because it has motors connected directly to the reel spindles. The 5 and the 4 use the counter rotating friction wheels to drive the spindles. The EL4 has piano keys - but the drive mechanisms insides are virtually identical.

    I have not removed the small black spindle caps. I tried to pull one off using pliers but didn't try too hard for fear of damage. The certainly do not unscrew! Maybe there is something under them that would facilitate removal of the whole assembly. I still suspect that Sony probably made a special tool to remove them - a specific type of a puller. I was hoping someone out there in the internet had some experience with that. Also the face plate that covers the reel assemblys actually comes out pretty easy - ya just have to manipulate it a bit and open the elect door frame in the proper sequence. But...after cleaning, greasing, replacing the friction brake pads and a good deoxit cleaning, its working pretty well. (all but the supply spool spring loaded pop out part) I wish I could say that about the cassettes themselves. While they look to be in good condition, they are NOT - on the inside. If the spools inside can turn at all they scrape and grind and make lots of noise. Mostly they will not turn. And of course if the take up reel isn't turning, the tape will just wrap around the capstan and pinch roller. I have had to disassemble every one I have used (so far - 6) and put some dry lubricant on the plastic reel hubs and the locking hubs (they have the teeth). Using "Blaster" advanced dry lube. I spray it into a small dish and then soak it up with a q-tip and dab it everywhere there are friction points - plastic against plastic. So far that is working well but its a PITA to disassemble every one of them.

    Thanks for your thoughts and interest!
     
  5. 62vauxhall

    62vauxhall AK Subscriber Subscriber

    Messages:
    2,003
    Maybe try using the blade tip of a pocket knife or a couple of the very small slot head jeweler's screwdrivers (cheap set from a dollar store) to pry them out?

    Yes, I have encountered the problem within the elcaset tapes. I got 9 or 10 with the deck when I bought it - all used. The previous owner had a band and that's what he used to record their stuff. Great fidelity, I played a couple, but not a genre to my liking. Of course the one I chose to record over got eaten because the take up hub stuck. I should be able to salvage it and did take it apart but getting the spring for the flaps back into position got me a bit flustered. I understand there are online "how to" instructions for elcaset tapes somewhere so will get to that someday.

    In the meantime, I exchanged labor for factory sealed elcaset blanks from another owner I know plus got more from a vintage audio shop in trade for a substantial number of still sealed chrome cassettes. There does not seem to be the same issue with factory sealed ones. I guess the cellophane wrapping keeps the lubricant from drying out. Too bad they're so hellishly expensive.
     
  6. betafan

    betafan New Member

    Messages:
    2
    Location:
    Latvia
    Hi all!
    I purchased an EL-5 3 days ago from a collector from Estonia. I had bought 1 SLH-60 tape ca. 2 years ago. I have not tried to make recording yet but the deck's mechanism is working OK in Play, FF and Rew modes. Here are some of my considerations.
    1. I understand that main problems might be with tapes and mechanism. Gary how was your success in using EE tape for type III ? Some time ago was a discussion (maybe at Tapeheads) about slicing VHS tape and using it on R2R decks as EE tape. There was an opinion that magnetic particles are orientated for video recording and therefore this kind of tape would not be suitable for audio. I am of other opinion because that these particles are smaller.
    2. Have somebody noticed electronics failures? I don't mean electrolytic capacitors or bad contact in switches and potentiometers. What about availability of deck control processor? Is it rather fault proof?
    Aivars - from Latvia (Sorry if my English is not good enough ... :( )
     

     

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  7. 62vauxhall

    62vauxhall AK Subscriber Subscriber

    Messages:
    2,003
    I seriously doubt video tape would be at all suitable for analog audio. And, to exactly split who knows how many 100's of feet of 1/2" video tape lengthways - not my idea of a good time.

    I'm sure it's possible with a lot of patience or some kind of cutter or device but not worth the time to experiment. If you're planning to re-load Elcaset shells, there's lots of 1/4" tape out there.

    And Normal sounds just fine.
     
  8. DaveAl

    DaveAl Active Member

    Messages:
    108
    Cool! I saw my one and only Elcaset unit within days of it hitting Pacific Stereo in San Jose, "back in the day". I was quite intrigued by it, thought about buying it,but ultimately declined due to my fear the format wouldn't catch on. Like CED, LaserDisc, Betamax, it didn't. Superiority of technology doesn't guarantee success in the marketplace!
     
  9. Randeyman

    Randeyman New Member

    Messages:
    5
     
    Last edited: Feb 11, 2018
  10. 62vauxhall

    62vauxhall AK Subscriber Subscriber

    Messages:
    2,003
    Good show!

    FWIW, felt worked great for the brakes on my EL-7. I bought a square foot of it from a specialty one off craft store once to re-do the clutch in a Realistic SCT-3000. Took me about a week to find stuff the right thickness and density/consistency. Only needed about one square inch for that and maybe another (being generous) for the EL-7 so I've got enough left for another 142 tape decks.
     
  11. Wilburchubs

    Wilburchubs Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    654
    Location:
    North-east UK
    Has anyone had a problem with the capstan motor "Hunting" for speed,goes from way too fast to too slow,sometimes it plays correct for a short while. Tried the speed adj control but no difference.
    anyone? :)
     

     

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  12. Wilburchubs

    Wilburchubs Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    654
    Location:
    North-east UK
    EL5 by the way.....
     
  13. Peter Ashton

    Peter Ashton New Member

    Messages:
    1
    I have an Elcaset Sony SL-5 unit which requires the replacement rubber for the Pinch Roller (3-548-710-00), Idler Assy, Fast Forward (X-3549-721-0) and Idler Assy, Rewind (X-3549-727-0). I e-mailed Terry Witt from TerrysRubberRollers and he could not help me unless I had the specifications for the items. Can anyone help on how to get the specifications or rubbers or the actual items listed.
    Thanks
     

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