The Official -Technics SL-1600/1700/1800- Owners Thread

As a recent and proud owner of both the 1700 and 1710 models, I'm in dire need of not one, but TWO, dustcovers.

Been searching for which covers fit exactly, and which fit "OK" -- ebay descriptions are not being terribly helpful. Does anyone have a breakdown, or better yet, a good source for OEM or aftermarket covers that work with the 1700 hinges?
 
1481907786190_1195087046.jpg

Here's my Sl-1600 (not mkII) w/ Stanton 681see....currently playing the quad Santana "Canvaseri"...sounding quite lovely on a non quad system....:banana:
 
Short story: Platter spins with tonearm at rest, platter stops when tonearm is moved to play a record. Automatic functions do nothing. When dead cold (unplugged for a few days), turntable might work normally on occasion for a minute or two. Most of the time, platter begins spinning as soon as the turntable is powered on, platter stops when you attempt to move the tonearm. Tonearm moves freely otherwise.

Long story: I've had this SL-1600MK2 for many years, but was never able to get it working. Long story short, I bought it on ebay about 8 years ago for $20, advertised as working. Upon bringing it home, the turntable powered on but the motor didn't spin or do anything. I really wanted to get this thing working so I brought it to a repair shop, they replaced the cuing belt, and threw on a cheap stylus and charged me $75.

I got really excited, brought it home, and it played about a half a record.

The turntable works intermittently when cold, it would sometimes work for a few minutes. Otherwise, when the turntable powers on, the platter starts spinning. When you move the arm over the play a record the platter stops spinning. Basically a reverse operation. 99% of the time this is what happens. 1% of the time the turntable will work normally for a minute or two. When I brought it back to the repair shop, they told me the optical sensor was bad and I am out of luck as this is a discontinued part. They refunded me about $30 for the repair.

The turntable then stayed with me for another 3 moves and 8 years. Finally I got sick of looking at it, decided to get a second opinion. I found another reputable repair shop a little further from home that had many good reviews. This shop had the turntable for 3 months, and told me the arm control logical board is bad and I am also out of luck. When I got it back from them (paid them $50 for the diagnosis), they had the wrong mat on the turntable, which is a pretty big deal as their are 9 IR emitters in the platter. I realized this after getting it home. I've been at war with them about the mat, and they are saying they cannot find it.

I then opted to buy a used motor board with optical sensor off ebay, to see if that fixes the problem. Of course the connector on this optical sensor is loose, and who knows if it is even good, but when I installed the entire board assembly with optical sensor, the turntable exhibits the same operation, platter spins when powered on, stops spinning when the arm moves to play a record.

I am now about $175 into this turntable, and would really like to get it working. When I opened it up, I saw that the power wires going to the motor board were replaced at some point, and were simply just wrapped around the two posts on the motor board and not secured otherwise. How are these supposed to be secured? I have not tried to see if the polarity is correct on them yet.

Does anyone have any advise on these symptoms, platter spins with the arm at rest, platter stops when tonearm moves over a platter. When dead cold the turntable seems to work normally for a few minutes on occasion. Automatic functions seem to work.

Is my only option here to convert the turntable to full manual control? If so, what would it take to do that?
 
As a recent and proud owner of both the 1700 and 1710 models, I'm in dire need of not one, but TWO, dustcovers.

Been searching for which covers fit exactly, and which fit "OK" -- ebay descriptions are not being terribly helpful. Does anyone have a breakdown, or better yet, a good source for OEM or aftermarket covers that work with the 1700 hinges?

I have a one owner 1700 I recently refurbed. Fitted with an Empire 3000ME/X cartridge. I too need a dustcover. I have the hinges on my broken cover but need a nice lid to complete the look.
 
Whos the expert on the 1700mkii?

I have kids and as soon i try to spend time on it to fix it i get interrupted. If anyone can help i would be really appreciated.

I did have time to fix the following;
On/off button
Lamp mech wouldn't rise
All buttons now work

Tone arm turns the platter, holds speed.

Issues are no auto fuctions work.
I have replaced the belt but the motor just spinds. If i press the cue button the motor stops. There is a crack on the small drive gear but the main shaft still spinds.
I have the service manual. I'm thinking it's a mechanical isssue. Coukd it be the clutch gear may need to be cleaned?

I need to take the complete tone arm mech to work and power it to see if its all working correctly. All micro switches measure good. If the mech passes i was going to see if certain IC's were putting out a pulse as per what the service manual says to test.
 
Last edited:
Hey everybody. I picked up my 1600 from craigslist a few years ago for a steal. When I got it the auto functions did't work, but I took it apart and re-lubed everything and it has worked great ever since. Last week I got a new cartridge for it, Ortofon 2m Red PnP. I've always loved the look of the Ortofon integrated headshells (I had the Concorde before this). I read that the PnP cartridge isn't a good match with the Technics arm because it is a very heavy combo (even though it is designed for the 1200 overhang?), but I'm finding it sounds excellent. Better than the Concorde OM10 I had before. I did have to buy the aux weight from the 1200 to get it to balance properly. Anyway, the point of this post is because I'm having trouble with the RCA cables on this table. One channel cuts out if you handle the cables. I'd like to replace them, but I was thinking about doing it with the KAB PC-1200 RCA jack plate. Has anybody tried that on a 1600? I assume it will fit. I figure having the jack plate will allow to experiment with different phono cables to find what works best with my cartridge in regards to capacitance loading. Has anybody changed out the RCA cables on the 1600? Is it pretty straight forward? Any tips?

View attachment 784869
i've redone all of the cables on my two SL 1600's and SL 1301's. it's a super easy process. I've also gotten rid of the secondary PCB board and just soldered the RCA pos/negs and grounds directly to the first PCB board directly under the tone arm. you just have to make sure that you secure the wire inside of the plinth so that if it gets tugged from outside the table that it won't just rip everything on the inside apart.
if you're going with the jack plate you'll have to cut out a portion of the casing to mount it. honestly, i think the cheapest thing to do would be to eliminate the secondary PCB board and run the RCA wires like normal, only use the female side instead of the males that are usually on these things and keep the cables short. you can use some beefy RCAs with plenty of shielding (the mogami cables can be had from any guitar center. just buy 9ft long ones and you'll have all the excess cable you need) to run from the plinth and you can use whatever other cables you want from there to the amp. personally, i think that would look a lot less gaudy than the kab kit.
the whole thing should only take you about 20 minutes.
 
... I did have to buy the aux weight from the 1200 to get it to balance properly. .....

I didn't think the SL-1600, 1700, 1800 was compatible with the auxiliary weight? Is the tonearm stub on your SL-1600 'Mk1' threaded for it?
 
I ended up getting the KAB PC-1200 RCA jack plate for my 1600 mk1. It installed without any issue or heavy modifications. Because it's made for the 1200 the crews holes don't quite match up with the dust cover hinges, so I had to attach it with only one screw (it is still very sturdy). Looks and works great.
 
I didn't think the SL-1600, 1700, 1800 was compatible with the auxiliary weight? Is the tonearm stub on your SL-1600 'Mk1' threaded for it?

You're right, it doesn't screw into the mk1 arm. But it does work just fine as the arm has a rubber plug like thing on the end with a hole that is just big enough for the aux weight to fit. You just push it in. I'm still using it even though my Nagaoka MP-1110 with stock headshell doesn't require it because it allows me to move the standard weight closer to the pivot point which is supposed to be better?
20170110_132225_HDR.jpg
 
As a recent and proud owner of both the 1700 and 1710 models, I'm in dire need of not one, but TWO, dustcovers.

Been searching for which covers fit exactly, and which fit "OK" -- ebay descriptions are not being terribly helpful. Does anyone have a breakdown, or better yet, a good source for OEM or aftermarket covers that work with the 1700 hinges?

A decade or so ago I bought a pair of 1200Mk2 dust covers with hinges on eBay. One is on my SL-1700Mk2, and the other is on a SL-1600 that my brother currently owns. They fit well, with the correct dimensions around the base but a shorter height (they wouldn't work on a 1650 with the changer spindle), but I'm 95% certain that I used the 1200 hinges instead of the originals.
 
  • Like
Reactions: LVB
Be careful with different height dust covers. If you have an automatic table there could be issues depending on the headshell. I have the stock regular height dustcover on my SL-1600 and I couldn't use the Ortofon SH-4 headshell because the large curved finger lift would hit the dust cover and prevent automatic operation. Not an issue if you strictly play with the dust cover up or off, but I always play with the cover down so I had to return the SH-4 even though it was a nice headshell. Just something to keep in mind
 
I've had the same issue with one headshell with a high fingerlift on my SL-1700Mk2 using the 1200 dust cover. The convenience of being able to gain clearance when placing the turntable on a shelf with a shelf above made the shorter dust cover worth the trade-off, as I've had all but one headshell work out fine.
 
New Owner of SL-1600Mk2 and SL-1800Mk2 needs help... can one still join the Club??

Greetings to fellow Technics TT owners. I have been a frequent lurker on Audiokarma for several years, but never posted before. Prior to the last few months, I have owned a SL-2000 for about 25 years or so, which has primarily only seen occasional use for playing vinyl to make CD copies. A grandson's budding new enthusiasm for vintage audio, including vinyl and turntables, has renewed my interest. I still have a large vinyl collection, and started reading up on the classic Technics turntables from the 70s. Since, I have read through all of the posts in the The Official -Technics SL-1600/1700/1800- Owners Thread.

I recently found and purchased a SL-1800Mk2 turntable from the original owner, who had carefully used and maintained it since new. It is in beautiful problem free cosmetic and operational condition. I also ran across a SL-1600Mk2 turntable "for parts or repair". The TT is in excellent cosmetic condition, and included the original box. I couldn't resist! My questions are about this table.

Using the amazing collection of expertise shared in the "owner's thread", I have already made some progress with restoring the table. A new belt solved the well known tone arm - belt problem. Although the "automatic" motions were restored, the movements were erratic and somewhat quirky. Further disassembly showed the lubrication was dried out on the gears at the arm base, and the small gear was cracked, with an almost completely missing tooth. I now have a gear replacement coming (again, all information found thanks to this great thread!). Application of Deoxit on all switches and controls restored consistent operation, including the frequency adjustment and small square LEDS.

At this point, the only problems I know of that go unaddressed, are a non working cue stylus light, and the on board LEDS that illuminate the strobe display for the platter don't light. I have ordered a neon replacement lamp from Kabusa (hoping this is the correct one) to try as a fix. I also found a complete circuit board from a working system that includes the strobe LEDs and control circuits. One of my questions is whether this can just be substituted in as-is to try and fix that problem? My on-board electronics diagnostic skills are basic and rudimentary, so wouldn't know where to begin to find out what the underlying problem is on the board. I do have good soldering skills. Any and all comments or suggestions to solve these issues are welcome and appreciated! And, my thanks to all members for their helpful contributions to this wonderful resource Audiokarma.org.

Regards,
Howard
 
Last edited:
You're right, it doesn't screw into the mk1 arm. But it does work just fine as the arm has a rubber plug like thing on the end with a hole that is just big enough for the aux weight to fit. You just push it in. I'm still using it even though my Nagaoka MP-1110 with stock headshell doesn't require it because it allows me to move the standard weight closer to the pivot point which is supposed to be better?
View attachment 849403

Thanks!
 
The anti-skating dial on my 1700 doesn't seem to be having much effect -- my standard bench test VTF is 1.5g, yet the arm continues to drift outward even at the Zero setting (yes, my table is level). Is there a way to adjust the zero point to the anti-skating dial? I have the service manual, but that doesn't seem to give any info on that control knob.
 
Hi,

The rubber belt on my SL-1600 MK2 has finally died. Tried a few stores unsuccessfully. Any idea where I could get this online? Also, does anybody know where I could get replacement prisms for the platter? Thanks.
 
Hi,

The rubber belt on my SL-1600 MK2 has finally died. Tried a few stores unsuccessfully. Any idea where I could get this online? Also, does anybody know where I could get replacement prisms for the platter? Thanks.

Hi, I am in the process of reconditioning my SL-1600Mk2, and one of the things I just ordered in are a particular size Evolution hair tie holder made of latex rubber. I found it mentioned in another post, and it is a near perfect belt replacement instead of the neoprene o-ring work-around. I couldn't find that exact one locally, so had to order from Amazon in quantity of 25. I'll be glad to send you a couple if you want to get me your mailing address. You can contact me through the email address at www.victorianmicroscopeslides.com Regards, Howard
 
Back
Top Bottom