The "other" gear. An MC2505 back to life.

Discussion in 'McIntosh Audio' started by smartin53, Apr 15, 2018.

  1. smartin53

    smartin53 Active Member

    Messages:
    487
    Location:
    Denver
    So on the flip side of the problematic MX120 and MR55A, I also got an MC2505 for cheap a few weeks ago and was putting some time into it. It needed new glass and that showed up today so I went ahead and did a basic teardown to inspect it.

    The chassis is not the best example in the world as it has lots of rust specs and dirt. It actually it looks like the unit had water dripping or regularly spilled into it too, as there was some heavy rust at the base end of the inner chassis. I went ahead and mitigated the worst of the rust and did a basic dirt cleanup for now.

    Electrically the sucker works great. Aside from some initial power on hum hinting at the need for some new caps it sounds and behaves exactly as it should. I'll get around to ordering new caps soon. Only tweak thus far is some LED bulbs I installed for the meters. There was some odd coloring from the regular bulbs but the LEDs solved that.

    As such I installed the new faceplate and threw it into a cabinet. Paired with my dormant C28 it makes for a nice living room setup. I always forget how "big" the little XL1s sound when connected to the right setup.

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  2. Yamaki

    Yamaki Not For Hire Subscriber

    Messages:
    3,661
    Location:
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    It's nice to see the older gear get the attention it deserves. The C2505 & C28 combination is a classic top performer that punches well above it's weight. And they just look right stacked together in an audio rack.

    Good luck with the system!
     
  3. AlTinkster92

    AlTinkster92 AK Subscriber Subscriber

    Messages:
    3,158
    Location:
    NC
    Yep, good to see the older gear, my ole MX114 and MC250 gets regular use almost each night. Very nice work on yours and they look just great!
     
  4. smartin53

    smartin53 Active Member

    Messages:
    487
    Location:
    Denver
    Tossed some new caps in aside from the multicap cans and main filter caps. Now just in the process of getting the surface rust off the chassis and surfaces. It's gonna be pitted but at least it will be silver again. Pulled the filter caps out first and got down in that area which is near impossible to clean with them in. That came our rather well. Now I'm working on the rear end of the chassis.

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  5. BillWojo

    BillWojo AK Subscriber Subscriber

    Messages:
    2,597
    Location:
    Burlington, NJ
    What are you using to remove the rust? I see you spread it on and covered it with plastic.

    BillWojo
     
  6. smartin53

    smartin53 Active Member

    Messages:
    487
    Location:
    Denver
    So I use Barkeeper's Friend mixed with water to a thick cake batter like paste. You can adjust your preferred thickness to the task at hand as needed but too dry/thick and it won't properly react and penetrate. Also as a caveat, while the newer polished chassis' and lettering hold up ok, the older metals and text on things like the C20 and MR55 tend to stain and the lettering comes up. The rust comes off either way though. Heavier rust may need 3-4 treatments of 1-2 hours each.

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  7. sgbroimp

    sgbroimp Member

    Messages:
    81
    Location:
    CT Shore
    I think that was my first Mc Amp. Bought new in 1969 with a C26. Where did you source the LED's if I may ask and did you install new gels and meter LED's also? My MC202 needs bulbs again and I sure would like to go LED, but want to do the job once and once only.
     
  8. smartin53

    smartin53 Active Member

    Messages:
    487
    Location:
    Denver
    I had a bunch of leftovers from some prior work I got off eBay. Didn't mess with the gels.
     

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