The restoration of a Yamaha CA-2000 (Japanese CA-2010)

Discussion in 'Yamaha' started by Mr. Yamaha, Oct 4, 2017.

  1. Mr. Yamaha

    Mr. Yamaha Not so much Yamaha lately... Subscriber

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    813
    Location:
    Amsterdam Area, The Netherlands
    @Oilmaster decided to sell me one of his CA-2000's :angel:

    It needs a full restoration, so this will be my second big project. Nice project for winter times. It's completely original and untouched.

    Some pictures:

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  2. Mr. Yamaha

    Mr. Yamaha Not so much Yamaha lately... Subscriber

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    Although I first need to finish my T-2 mini project and my also new Micro Seiki DDX-1000 project, I couldn't help myself. So I started with cleaning the front plate and all knobs.

    There appeared to be green corrosion on some knobs, but that turned out to be dirt :bigok:

    The faceplate is a different story, there is something on it. Not sure what it is, but it couldn't be removed with: normal cleaner, sticker remover, turpentine, white spirit and thinner. So, I'm a bit out of options there. Maybe some of you know a different approach. In the last pictures you can see it, there are some cloudy stains on the faceplate.

    Next steps: inventory of needed parts and to order them.

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  3. Bert 1100

    Bert 1100 Super Member

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    Beautiful amp !
    Does it run on 100V ?
    Maybe the white stains are some kind of corrosion ?
     
  4. amr2

    amr2 Active Member

    Messages:
    481
    Nice project! :beerchug:
    I have observed that kind of stains on anodized pieces. I'll try to investigate...
     
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  5. mbz

    mbz AK Subscriber Subscriber

    Messages:
    1,765
    Location:
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    I'm currently doing a CA-2000 refurb. Some proprietry parts on the function board, hope there ok.
    Some hints,
    - take out a gym membership, serious weight.
    - remove L&R power amps to lighten the load, need to unsolder 4 "input" (+/-V, IN, GND) wires
    - Unsolder 4 wires connecting meters to meter board so front plate can be removed
    - Nichicon PW and EP caps on the power supply
    - measure all FR's replace if out of spec
    - replace VD1212's with 2 x 1N4148
    - I would not overdo the step down, buy a quality low noise isolation transformer (torroidal), 700VA
    would probably be ok, 1KVA plenty
     
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  6. fernarias

    fernarias Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    962
    Location:
    Merced, CA
    It's damage to the sealant or clear coat on the anodized surface. Usually from using ammonia cleaners (windex for the US) or other harsh chemicals cleaners (water is the best cleaner). I have had luck with acrylic polish (like Future) to lessen the effects. Perhaps resealing with anodized sealant would work but I haven't tried (not until I get a garage, available here: http://www.caswellplating.com/anodizing-sealant-1-lb.html).

    Plastic parts can be repainted with lacquer paint like Alclad.
     

     

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  7. rottalpha

    rottalpha Yamaholic Subscriber

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    I have a feeling MR Yamaha will take this restauration a bit further than that.

    Also, he should be in really good physical shape after that last B-2 restauration:thumbsup:
     
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  8. Mr. Yamaha

    Mr. Yamaha Not so much Yamaha lately... Subscriber

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    Yes, 100V! I need a proper transformer.

    Thx, some of those are allready on the list. VD1212's and FR's. I think this one is getting the Nichicon Muse treatment.

    Yes I was a bit afraid of that. You think it can be fixed without damaging the lettering?
     
  9. fernarias

    fernarias Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    962
    Location:
    Merced, CA
    I have had a lot of success with Future floor polish on Pioneer and Marantz faceplates(my Yamaha gear has been clean).

    This is what the product is called in the UK(perhaps Eurozone) https://www.amazon.co.uk/27OZ-FUTURE-FLOOR-FINISH-Kitchen/dp/B000ARPH4C . Future in the Netherlands is availalble here: "in superstore's like Edah and C-1000. Also look in "Super de Boer" and 'Albert Heijn' which is locally referred to as 'AH'"(got this info from a plastic modelers forum which is where this is mostly used, outside of cleaning floors).

    You're best bet is to ask about it in a Netherlands modeling community website and they will have the right name. Again it's just clear acrylic floor polish.
     
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  10. Mr. Yamaha

    Mr. Yamaha Not so much Yamaha lately... Subscriber

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    Great info, thanks. Do you polish the surface including the letters or do you go around them?
     
  11. fernarias

    fernarias Well-Known Member

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    962
    Location:
    Merced, CA
    This won't hurt the lettering. It's wipe on and let dry. Try it on a small patch first.
     

     

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  12. pfcs49

    pfcs49 Phil Subscriber

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    The largest button on my PX-2 turntable is ugly! Some one scratch it and I tried sanding it out only to discover that it isn't brushed aluminum, it's some kind of finish over plastic!
    Anybody know how I can refinish it to look original?
     
  13. avionic

    avionic " Black Knights " Subscriber

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    Last edited: Oct 8, 2017
  14. pfcs49

    pfcs49 Phil Subscriber

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    @avionic:
    Find a parts unit.
    Isn't that the "down" button ?

    Good used button would be best, but I haven't seen one in 3 years!
    Yes, it is the 3-wide down button below L/R/Up buttons

    The linked product wouldn't seem to work well; the button is 3D with sides
     
  15. avionic

    avionic " Black Knights " Subscriber

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    Look better that what you have now..
     
  16. pfcs49

    pfcs49 Phil Subscriber

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    True, but the deck is nearly perfect excepting that button! I'll continue to look for used.
     

     

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  17. Mr. Yamaha

    Mr. Yamaha Not so much Yamaha lately... Subscriber

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    Some stripping has been done here.. :cool:

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  18. Oilmaster

    Oilmaster Drillers go deeper Subscriber

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    There lays my adopted puppy on the bench in pieces....:bye:
     
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  19. Mr. Yamaha

    Mr. Yamaha Not so much Yamaha lately... Subscriber

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    A question on the Tantalum discussion. In the phono section there's eight 100 uF tantalum capacitors in the signal path (C101 - C108). I was planning on replacing them with new AVX tantalums, but they are pretty expensive. Is there any drawback by replacing them with eight 100 uF Nichicon FG's?

    Were they chosen in the 70's because of there physical size against electrolytics or were the chosen for their sonic performance? :idea:

    Even stranger, according to the schematics (of a CA-2010) they should be 33 uF and 220 uF, but the ones in this CA-2000 are all 100 uF, four rated 6.3V and four rated 10V.

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  20. ivandezande

    ivandezande Super Member

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    Size, every time. Replace those with the ones you want to (the FG). Tant caps actually have pretty high distortion I believe actually when being used to pass AC, no sonic benefit there.
     
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