The restoration of a Yamaha CA-2000 (Japanese CA-2010)

Discussion in 'Yamaha' started by Mr. Yamaha, Oct 4, 2017.

  1. Oldsansui441

    Oldsansui441 AK Subscriber Subscriber

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    I replaced those in my 2010 with UKL's because of the low leakage qualities of the tantalums. I had to fit a couple under the board because of the size restraints of the e caps

    [​IMG]
     
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  2. mbz

    mbz AK Subscriber Subscriber

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    Second that, I also used UKL's for the same reason
     
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  3. Mr. Yamaha

    Mr. Yamaha Not so much Yamaha lately... Subscriber

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    10V UKL's would fit on the top-side I guess :thumbsup:
     
  4. Oldsansui441

    Oldsansui441 AK Subscriber Subscriber

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    Yes, if memory serves l think l could only get the 25v UKL's at that point. Are the original tantalums only 6.3v or 10v?, l cannot remember.
     
    Last edited: Dec 29, 2017
  5. Mr. Yamaha

    Mr. Yamaha Not so much Yamaha lately... Subscriber

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    Yes, four of ‘m are 10V and the other four are 6,3V.
     
  6. Oilmaster

    Oilmaster Drillers go deeper Subscriber

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    @Mr. Yamaha : I just purchased a capacitor leakage tester; please keep the tantalums apart and send them to me incl one specimen of the new caps you may select (unless FGKZ which I have in stock)
     

     

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  7. rottalpha

    rottalpha Yamaholic Subscriber

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    Nice,
    I know Peak makes a nice LCR.
    I use old school Sencore LC-77 (poor man's LC-103). Life just would not be the same without it :D
     
  8. Oldsansui441

    Oldsansui441 AK Subscriber Subscriber

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    Ahh sorry, l now see you already mentioned this after l looked over your entire post again. So the 10v would be 2mm smaller in diameter than the 25v UKL's so yes they may very well fit fine as you say.

    Do you think the original tantalums might have lower leakage current than modern low leakage electros? I am curious on this as l know the original tantalums in this old gear have a bad rep but it does make me wonder as Mr Yamaha was asking earlier about possible benefits or downfalls of quality modern tantalums.
     
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  9. mbz

    mbz AK Subscriber Subscriber

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    Some people suggest using MKS (Wima MKS2,,) datasheets show better tan delta. I've yet to try them/have a shoot out, bit reluctant, also they are a little costly.
     
  10. Oldsansui441

    Oldsansui441 AK Subscriber Subscriber

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    Good point mbz, l use the mks2's a lot in 3.3uF and under (esp where low leakage were orig fitted) but l haven't used for the larger values. As you say they are fairly pricey in the larger values and Element 14 doesn't stock the 10uF either.
     
    Last edited: Dec 30, 2017
  11. Oilmaster

    Oilmaster Drillers go deeper Subscriber

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    Well that's why I want the old ones, to find out !
    The only way to learn and know for sure
     
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  12. Oldsansui441

    Oldsansui441 AK Subscriber Subscriber

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    Fair enough, would be interesting to know your findings :thumbsup:.
     
  13. Mr. Yamaha

    Mr. Yamaha Not so much Yamaha lately... Subscriber

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    Thanks, I will. I ordered the 10V FG’s, but will order the 10V KL’s also in the next order.

    We are talking about 100 uF here ;)
     
  14. 39cross

    39cross AK Subscriber Subscriber

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    1-IMG_20140209_124323.jpg
    I used KL's for the tantalums as well. Here is a photo I dug up. As you can see it was a bit of a tight fit but it works. It's a really nice phono stage, makes any record a little more magical.
     
  15. Oilmaster

    Oilmaster Drillers go deeper Subscriber

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    PS: that sliding MM/MC selection switch need to be fully dismantled for a thorough deep inside cleaning; it's a "open air" type; all signal-carrying metal surfaces are guaranteed oxidized (even black).

    And when it, oh well, the rotating selector switches as well.
     
  16. Mr. Yamaha

    Mr. Yamaha Not so much Yamaha lately... Subscriber

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    All switches will be dismantled, cleaned and preserved. I've done a few in my C-4. There are different opinions on how. I use a glass fiber pen (soaked in deoxit 100) to remove oxidation and preserve them with faderlube. But there is someone on this forum who states that the kind of sanding sanding will damage a mystyrious coating applied by Yamaha :rolleyes:
     
    Last edited: Jan 28, 2018

     

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  17. Mr. Yamaha

    Mr. Yamaha Not so much Yamaha lately... Subscriber

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    Most parts are in house, some are ordered. Made a start today with the Elco Board, pretty straight forward.

    Before:

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  18. Mr. Yamaha

    Mr. Yamaha Not so much Yamaha lately... Subscriber

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    The main filter caps were pretty out of spec, 17.010 uF and 16.570 uF (should be 22.000 uF).

    IMG_0603.jpg IMG_0604.jpg
     
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  19. Mr. Yamaha

    Mr. Yamaha Not so much Yamaha lately... Subscriber

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    Had some time to work on the power supply board and finished it today. Pretty much replaced everything except the small carbon resistors. Muchos gracias @Oilmaster for his contribution to the parts list :beerchug:

    Pretty happy with how it all turned out.

    Before:

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    After:

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  20. Mr. Yamaha

    Mr. Yamaha Not so much Yamaha lately... Subscriber

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    Some more pictures:

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