Thorens TD-124 "How To Buy ?"

theoman

Confused Member
Subscriber
I'm thinking about buying a Thorens TD-124 and don't know what to look for, I know that the tonearm is not important because I'm going to replace it with my own.

I see ones being sold from outside the US that are in very good condition.
So what do I look for? I've been looking for months and now I'm lost. Do I buy a mess up one and sent it out for rebuild? do I buy one from out of the US? Do I buy a complete one that's been refurbished?
 
Id say it depends on your budget and skills, along with your desire to do the work yourself. As long as nothing is broken or missing, these decks can be restored mechanically, if not aesthetically, by someone without skill or experience, as long as they have patience. Arm can matter if it's good. Or if you're on a budget.

What's the budget? What's your skill level? And what's your desire to get your hands dirty?
 
budget is 1k and skill is good. Looking at one made in Denmark but know if it can be converted to 120.
 
$1K will get you a drive unit in decent cosmetic condition, but its going to need to be refurbished. They seem cheaper in Europe, but the shipping costs are going to be substantial. Check the top platter for being flat, as they have a tendency to warp. Getting a replacement one is far more expensive than one would think. Plan for servicing the motor, replacing motor and plinth isolation mounts, replacing the idler wheel, replacing the belt, and a general clean and lube. It's going to need a decent plinth, and a solid stacked one is better than those hollow boxes they were originally supplied with.

It's pretty easy to drop $500 or more into the plinth, and a couple of hundred in parts to refurbish it. If you can saw wood and make it look good, then a plinth is cheaper.

Regards
Mister Pig
 
It's a straight forward design...easy to repair and parts are available.
Once you fix it yourself you'll be able to diagnose and service any future issues.
I vote for "fix it yourself" but I think $1200 is more reasonable for the chassis alone.
 
if the top platter is not flat I can always get it re-machined

Don't work that way homie. The top platter is made of thin aluminum, kind of like an old stove top burner cover. When they warp they are very difficult to straighten. To get a used one off the used market that is flat its usually over $250 when they are available. And they sell fast. To get a Schopper reproduction is 590 CHF, about $600 USD. Its the only reproduction I know if. There are a few pieces that are almost unobtanium, and go for major bucks when found. Such as the metal band for the speed selector. Other parts have reproductions that are far more reasonable.

Regards
Mister Pig
 
I paid $1k for mine a few years ago from a seller on eBay out in California, and it arrived in pretty darn clean condition, and needed just some basic servicing to get it up to snuff. I think you can get a really nice one with your budget.

This is what mine looked like when I received it:

MBGtsvm.jpg


...and today:

Jeg9omt.jpg
 
I paid $1k for mine a few years ago from a seller on eBay out in California, and it arrived in pretty darn clean condition, and needed just some basic servicing to get it up to snuff. I think you can get a really nice one with your budget.

This is what mine looked like when I received it:

MBGtsvm.jpg


...and today:

Jeg9omt.jpg
Gorgeous color.
 
About 1.5 years ago I bought a nicely refurbished example in a custom plinth from an American TT refurbisher and plinth maker for $2K. I estimated the table's share at a little over $1K.
 
Am I missing something. It's the same color as yours and all the rest of the 124 MKI.
I thought based on the second photo that he'd repainted it to a taupe / greyish color. Perhaps not? In that case, nice original paint.
 
I don't know much about Orotofon arms, but I've seen headshells like that go for $250...

Conversion from 220 to 120 is as simple as a new cord and unscrewing the little screw in your voltage selector box from one setting and screwing it into the preferred setting. Couldn't be simpler.

Little brown square on the left under the platter is your voltage selection:
8d1a5-blogthorens_td124_6.jpg
 
The arm is not included
The one your looking at is a MKII. It is a better table than the older MKI. Thorens did some upgrades to the MKII which made it a more quieter running table. Also the table is gray in color better looking than the MKI tan color IMO.
 
The one your looking at is a MKII. It is a better table than the older MKI. Thorens did some upgrades to the MKII which made it a more quieter running table. Also the table is gray in color better looking than the MKI tan color IMO.
I prefer the aesthetics of the mk1. Horses for courses!
 
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