Thorens TD-126 MkIII suspension adjustment?

[39cross]

My TD-126 mkIII is in need of adjusting - however I can only turn one of the cups. There is one in a corner that I can't get my hands around, and another one that just won't budge. Did Thorens have a tool that fit them? Anyway I am wondering and hoping someone has some advice on how to deal with them.

I recapped it a couple years ago and am impressed at how well it works, it feels like a luxury product. If only the suspension was leveled, it would ease my mind.

 

[39cross]

Resurrecting my singleton thread, hopefully someone may have an idea today.

I was able to adjust one of the cups, but for the life of me, I can't turn the other two. Any tricks to try?

 

[39cross]

Ideas? Anyone run into this problem before? I could try a couple pair of pliers, but I don't want to risk breaking the cup.

 

[GuyK]

First thing I'd do is use some kind of penetrating oil. I can't tell from the photo what the materials are so cannot advise use of anything petroleum based, but would consider alcohol - either denatured or isopropyl. Nothing much stronger than that without knowing And I wonder if the two that don't move are at the limits of adjustment in one direction; therefore I'd try going the other just to find out.

 

[39cross]

thanks! They are plastic. I found some nice photos here: https://www.vinylengine.com/turntable_forum/viewtopic.php?f=17&t=77927&start=30

Probably I should head there for this question, but I like hanging here at AK.

 

[Crestwood23]

I have a 126 MKII and my spring cups were tough to get moving as well. I would flip the table over and spray some sewing machine oil around (into) the seams where the cups meet the metal. Soak it well and let it sit and penetrate. Then try to rotate the cup with a pliers wrapped in paper towel to get a decent grip. Maybe not the most elegant way to go, but it worked for me.

 

[tnsilver]

There is one in a corner that I can't get my hands around, and another one that just won't budge

It happens. Those cups have very fine threading and if you insert them crooked, the more you screw them in, the more they're tougher to get out. You need a grip! The sewing machine oil was a good idea. WD40 would do the trick too to clear old gunk & grease. Then remove all the visible screws from the bottom of the plinth and deattache it from the chassis. You should now have enough clearance to use a tool like a pipe wrench on the plastic cups (wrap in a rag or towel to avoid scraping and dinging) and unscrew them. Once out, work along the threads with a utility knife or thin flat screw driver to clean them up. When you screw them back again - make sure they are perfectly leveled. It's easier said then done b/c you have to overcome the springs. Do it while the plinth is out - it will be easier.

 

[39cross]

You need a grip!

That's for sure!

Thanks everyone for the ideas. It hadn't occurred to me to remove the plinth, but with that out of the way it would be possible to get a much better grip. Getting some lubricant in the threads is a good idea. I recall that with the cup I was able to free up, the thread were indeed very fine. I worked it free and got some fine oil on the threads, and it then worked like a charm. Maybe because the working area was so tight, it didn't occur to me to get some preliminary lube in the other two.

No football game this Sunday, so this will be the TD-126 superbowl, me vs. the suspension. Hopefully it's not a close one.

 

[39cross]

Here's a belated followup thank-you to the help from y'all.
I removed the plinth, photo is attached below to show what it looks like sans-plinth. This gave me enough room to get some vise grips wrapped in cloth around the cups and work them free.
Afterwards I was able to hand turn the cups to make the adjustments, and after some trial and error got the table reasonably balanced. I'm not sure it's perfect, but it is much improved - no more downhill tilt!