Thorens TD-160 and Shure V15 Setup

[karsavuran]

Good! Just to make clear:

Red = Right channel 'live'
Green = Right channel return/ground - Thorens grounds this to the chassis, the sub-chassis and the TA
White = Left channel 'live'
Blue = Left channel return/ground

This the Thorens default headshell pinout scheme:

This headshell wiring is different than others right? I connected them according to "headshell wire pins" image search. After checking pin to rca continuity, found out it is different. I rewired according to continuity test, and it is the same with the photo now. Others are also the same. But still adjusting suspension so still not tried. Leveling the chasis on the paint cans is real pain.
Also tone arm to rca resistance is about 1.7 ohms, 1 ohm of its is probs alligator clips etc, so tonearm to rca is 0.7 ohms. I think it is a bit high (is it?). I should check also tone arm wiring to wiring hub and wiring hub to rca, and rewire acoordingly.

 

[karsavuran]

This is new headshell spacer, from 4mm poplar plywood. I hope it will work.

 

[tnsilver]

Leveling the chasis on the paint cans is real pain

Yep, maybe because of this:

I damped also top side of the subchasis (with cork).

If you damp the top side of the sub-chassis, you're increasing the gap it with the main deck, thus inadvertently causing the spring to be a little more compressed. Add to this the damping of the main chassis with bitumen, that may stretch a little under the sub-chassis, and the said gap increases even further causing the springs to compress even more. It might account for the hard time you are experiencing with tuning the suspension. Did I already mention I hate bitumen on turntables???

Yes, the Thorens headshell wiring is different than most manufacturers, definitely different than the Japanese standard. You got to wire the HS like I showed in the previous image, or alter the entire wiring hub.

1Ω seems about right. I'm using an LCR meter to test resistance on my Cardas AWG 33 TA wires and I'm getting 0.66Ω and 22pF for the TA wires (headshell to hub, not RCA) so I guess anything between 0.7Ω and 1Ω is alright for the stock harness - which is very good, although a tad heavy for it's performance.

BTW: I'm not sure plywood as a spacer is a whole lot better than cork. The principal is you want something rigid between the cart body and the HS. Find a 4mm piece of hard plastic, carve and drill it and you're all set.

 

[karsavuran]

Yep, maybe because of this:

Actually, because of my unwillingness I put it on the cans tried and give up and work on something else.

If you damp the top side of the sub-chassis, you're increasing the gap it with the main deck, thus inadvertently causing the spring to be a little more compressed. Add to this the damping of the main chassis with bitumen, that may stretch a little under the sub-chassis, and the said gap increases even further causing the springs to compress even more. It might account for the hard time you are experiencing with tuning the suspension. Did I already mention I hate bitumen on turntables???

the time I spent on tuning the suspension was leveling the plinth not the suspension actually. I do not think decreased gap is a problem because actually it is not decrease. There was three pads on top of the subchassis and its tickness is more than cork+bitumen. But weight of the cork would result in compressed springs.

After leveling the plinth tuning suspension did not take much time and I think it is OK now.

Yes, the Thorens headshell wiring is different than most manufacturers, definitely different than the Japanese standard. You got to wire the HS like I showed in the previous image, or alter the entire wiring hub.

1Ω seems about right. I'm using an LCR meter to test resistance on my Cardas AWG 33 TA wires and I'm getting 0.66Ω and 22pF for the TA wires (headshell to hub, not RCA) so I guess anything between 0.7Ω and 1Ω is alright for the stock harness - which is very good, although a tad heavy for it's performance.

BTW: I'm not sure plywood as a spacer is a whole lot better than cork. The principal is you want something rigid between the cart body and the HS. Find a 4mm piece of hard plastic, carve and drill it and you're all set.

Hum problem is solved after switch to thorens wiring.
Actually I am glad I do not have to rewire tonearm or hub to rca.

I am done with it, at least until I am get bored Thanks for your all help and comments.

I need dust cover, anti-skate knob, top cover of the gimball and counter weight set screw but all of them are over priced (for me) and they can wait

 

[tnsilver]

I need dust cover, anti-skate knob, top cover of the gimball and counter weight set screw

Before I finished that sentence I had it ballparked at $180...

Well done! Enjoy it for a while before the next mod.

 

[karsavuran]

Before I finished that sentence I had it ballparked at $180...

I am not sure I understand but if you are selling it shipping will be too much and risky.

Well done! Enjoy it for a while before the next mod.

Thanks a lot.

 

[karsavuran]

I was just estimating the cost of the parts you mentioned missing. I am not selling anything.

OK it is really low estimate for all of them according to ebay.

 

[kai_eric]

When I first bought my td160 a few years ago, I had the same hum that you mentioned (only when I'm moving the tonearm). I eventually noticed that the threaded collar used to attach headshell to arm was just slightly loose. Once I tightened it up, there was no more hum. Sounds like you've got it figured, but if it ever happens again, it may be just that simple. Just my experience

 

[p.robustini]

Looks like this is correct. I removed damping on the subplatter. Now I need to tap harder until skip. Also I reduced VTF to 1.0 gr.

Hi! This is maybe late, but I have the same TT and a similar Shure Me97HE cartridge. I had problems with bouncing at footfalls. I reduced them noticeably by carefully aligning the stylus with a protractor, setting the VTF at 1.5g but stabilizer down (which means VTF is 1.0 g), I oiled the stabilizer's hinges and checked alignment, azimuth etc. with a test record. The turntable's suspensions must be perfectly setup as a starting point (new belt included). Of course, lower compliance cartridges do not have any bouncing problems.
By the way, I have been using tar sheets in the past - as of today my TD-160 is undamped (just a tar sheet on the flimsy bottom plate). I just rewired the ground connections adding a ground wire and installed larger, damped feet (but I also read the small original feet were meant to be on THAT plinth).
Well, I also replaced the original cables... I don't know if I really want to dampen it. Maybe just the bottom of the faceplate? Or just the bearing shaft's pit and maybe the motor - a la Vinyl Nirvana...

 

[2526]

this was the setup on my 160. Worked fine.