Thorens TD-160 spin test and what oil to use

can-man

Active Member
I just did a spin test on my TD-160 and I only get about 20 seconds. So I assume I need to oil the spindle.

What oil should I use and how much. I can access it from the top without disassembly. Thanks!
 
I just did a spin test on my TD-160 and I only get about 20 seconds. So I assume I need to oil the spindle.

What oil should I use and how much. I can access it from the top without disassembly. Thanks!

I use sewing machine oil on mine. Just take the belt off, lift off the sub platter and put the oil in the bearing well. I put a couple of squirts in to start. When you put the sub platter back in, the oil will hold it up. You can just spin the SP slowly and the oil will work its way up around the shaft and it will settle into place. A little oil may spill over the top of the well. That's ok. I get a little over 2 minutes spin down from 33 rpm on mine. :music:
 
Sewing machine oil and electric motor oil are both fine, and right similar to one another.


Clean out the old oil first though. If its gummy and sticky, new oil won't completely fix it. Q-tips with some mineral spirits or similar will get that job done right effectively.
 
Remember to take the belt off... and if that time was with the belt on, you might need a new one :)

If that 20 seconds is without belt already, then something is seriously wrong or the bearing really needs a good clean and relube. You should be looking at about 2 minutes from 33rpm to halt when all is well. More important than the exact time is that it runs silent though. A somewhat loose bearing might spin really freely but still make some noise.
 
I used mineral sports and 8 qtips to clean spindlet well. Then a couple of squirts of sewing machine oil and it now sounds so much better.
Really cheap easy fix.
 
I just did a spin test on my TD-160 and I only get about 20 seconds. So I assume I need to oil the spindle.

What oil should I use and how much. I can access it from the top without disassembly. Thanks!

20 seconds from 33 to stop is quite bad.

Carefully lift out the inner platter. Inspect. It's the oil tacky? Clean out the old oil with isopropyl and a lint free cotton. It's the thrust plate on the bottom ok?

Joel has a kit for polishing the bearing well, he also sells oil.

I use Joel's stuff, which probably cost more, as opposed to common household products. I don't take chances on the bearing.

I have read huge debates on thie subject of oil for Thorens. The bearing well is sintered bronze, some oils are not correct to use. Sewing machine oils seems light to me. Do some research using the search function here and at vinyl engine.

After clean out, polish, and fresh oil my platter spins for four minutes. It is quiet. That is what you want.

Good luck, Bob
 
20 seconds from 33 to stop is quite bad.

Carefully lift out the inner platter. Inspect. It's the oil tacky? Clean out the old oil with isopropyl and a lint free cotton. It's the thrust plate on the bottom ok?

Joel has a kit for polishing the bearing well, he also sells oil.

I use Joel's stuff, which probably cost more, as opposed to common household products. I don't take chances on the bearing.

I have read huge debates on thie subject of oil for Thorens. The bearing well is sintered bronze, some oils are not correct to use. Sewing machine oils seems light to me. Do some research using the search function here and at vinyl engine.

After clean out, polish, and fresh oil my platter spins for four minutes. It is quiet. That is what you want.

Good luck, Bob

I found him on ebay and went ahead and ordered his oil kit.

I've read some of the debates, but no one that I can tell has said, "this it the correct oil to use".

Thanks for posting that info Bob.

Go for it can-man.

George.
 
43 years is how long I've owned MY thorens.
When I took it new out of the Packagings it would 'spooldown' for 20/ 25 secs after the left knob was turned off (never ever used 45 rpms).
It still does that time.
Now you guys claim it's inadequate. ReallY?
Mebe just mebe the spindle is Sooo worn from use or ill advised 'polishings' that the tolerances are now sloppy.
A more interesting test is to 'time' how long it takes the spindle shaft to seat after a fresh wipe and oil change.
Mine is at close to a Half hour :)
For years the Cuing arm drop down was glacial as well.
Was repeatedly told it was a 'feature'.
Hah! it was lube deteriorated into glue.. in actual fact
But Hey! whatever makes yer day: _0
 
43 years is how long I've owned MY thorens.
When I took it new out of the Packagings it would 'spooldown' for 20/ 25 secs after the left knob was turned off (never ever used 45 rpms).
It still does that time.
Now you guys claim it's inadequate. ReallY?
Mebe just mebe the spindle is Sooo worn from use or ill advised 'polishings' that the tolerances are now sloppy.
A more interesting test is to 'time' how long it takes the spindle shaft to seat after a fresh wipe and oil change.
Mine is at close to a Half hour :)
For years the Cuing arm drop down was glacial as well.
Was repeatedly told it was a 'feature'.
Hah! it was lube deteriorated into glue.. in actual fact
But Hey! whatever makes yer day: _0

One half hour to seat? Just the inner platter or do you include the outer platter? Are you intentionally over filling the bearing with oil?

This sounds as strange as your use of dental floss as a belt.
 
43 years is how long I've owned MY thorens.
When I took it new out of the Packagings it would 'spooldown' for 20/ 25 secs after the left knob was turned off (never ever used 45 rpms).
It still does that time.

That is apparently with the belt on as you mention the switch... it is not the bearing acting as the brake in that case, but the belt. If you take the belt off
and spin the platter up to 33rpm by hand and then time it, it will take way longer for the platter to halt, because then it's only the bearing in action.

You have owned your turntable from the new and taken good care of it - good for you. You probably don't need to bother yourself about things like bearing condition, but if you get a 2nd hand SCROEEE table of unknown history, you usually NEED to check and clean the bearing + relube the first thing, because often the previous owner / owners have done nothing of the sort EVER.
 
I've long been leery of the notion of polishing that bearing. Its a porous bronze bushing, meant to have some voids to hold oil. Polishing it might reduce running friction but it will also seal up those pores and lead to worse lubrication over time. If the spindle had cross-hatches in it at the right angle to "lift" the oil, it might work out but from memory I do not think they have this. Besides all that, if you aren't extremely careful the bearing ends up hogged out and then what do you have? Polishing metal removes material, no question about it. remove too much and the tolerances open up, and then you have a sloppy bearing assembly. The "sink down" time would indicate how tight the fit is between the spindle and the bearing. The longer it is, the tighter the fit. It will vary somewhat depending on the oil you're using but if it drops right in there like the proverbial hot dog in a hallway, its slapped out.



If you're getting 20 seconds spool-down with the belt on, its great. If its 20 seconds with the belt OFF, then you've got a hell of a lot of drag going on.
 
A sintered bronze bearing (Oilite or similar) isn't something to be polished as you'll likely clog the pores and end up with grit in the bearing that's nearly impossible to remove. It's also near impossible to do a good job by hand unless you're already a machinist with experience at such things. OTOH, spindles can usually be improved by polishing with fine (3-9 um) diamond polishing film. It would take forever to remove enough material to matter. IMO, crosshatching is good for car engines but not for turntable bearings. It tends to cause more noise. IMO again, oil viscosity (and clearance) has more to do with spin-down time than anything else. Old and thick is bad, but you need enough viscosity to maintain a film and separate the parts. I've used sewing machine oil, but some are a bit light. Others are perfect. Gun oil can be good. Oilite bearings are often shipped new with what's known as turbine oil and that's essentially what hydraulic fluid is- a light oil with anti-wear additives. ISO32 is common, but you end up buying a gallon at the tractor store!
 
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I've long been leery of the notion of polishing that bearing. Its a porous bronze bushing, meant to have some voids to hold oil. Polishing it might reduce running friction but it will also seal up those pores and lead to worse lubrication over time. If the spindle had cross-hatches in it at the right angle to "lift" the oil, it might work out but from memory I do not think they have this. Besides all that, if you aren't extremely careful the bearing ends up hogged out and then what do you have? Polishing metal removes material, no question about it. remove too much and the tolerances open up, and then you have a sloppy bearing assembly. The "sink down" time would indicate how tight the fit is between the spindle and the bearing. The longer it is, the tighter the fit. It will vary somewhat depending on the oil you're using but if it drops right in there like the proverbial hot dog in a hallway, its slapped out.



If you're getting 20 seconds spool-down with the belt on, its great. If its 20 seconds with the belt OFF, then you've got a hell of a lot of drag going on.


I totally agree! :thmbsp:
 
I am original poster and was getting 20 to 30 seconds with belt on..more like 20. With belt off, I almost need a Calander now. Still feel good about cleaning per everyone ideas and new oil.
I tweaked the weight some on tone arm, and that made huge difference. Listened to Lee Rideour and
Jack Johnson last night..very smooth.
Next step is mdf base board and some sound deadening and them I am done...unless I decide on a new plinth.
Thanks everyone.
 
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