Three beautiful Fisher receivers to receive 2nd life

I'm not sure if these are old stock, or currently still produced. I considered grabbing a few extra for possible failures in the future.
 
At those prices they better be NEW! or UnUSED OLD STOCK. I priced a HVAC selector switch(vacuum switch) for a 1995 S-10 as the one in the Jimmy went out and I have no HIGH FAN (yeah I checked the motor, the resistor pack, and the actual switch...all good). The one place that has them in stock wanted $250.00 for a new factory switch. So I went down to the Pick and pay and got one from a 1997 Chevy Blazer, ( Neat thing about the S-10, Blazer, Sonoma, Jimmy and Olds Bravada is they all use the same parts under the skin.) and paid $12.00 for the whole panel with the fan switch, HVAC Seletor(vacuum switch), and temp rheostat.
 
The two I received were new, one went in the 800-C stinker, the other in the 500-C. Not cheap, but I know how rare it is to find these, and it allows for a true restoration.
 
These switches seem to keep cropping up as faulty. I suppose I'm lucky that mine all work, for now. Besides adding thermistors to each unit, are there any other precautions I/we could take to make working switches last longer? Snubber cap across the terminals maybe? Anything else?
 
These switches seem to keep cropping up as faulty. I suppose I'm lucky that mine all work, for now. Besides adding thermistors to each unit, are there any other precautions I/we could take to make working switches last longer? Snubber cap across the terminals maybe? Anything else?

I add a jumper from where the switch energizes the outlets in the back to where the other switch wire connects to the power transformer. That way both contacts in the switch are used for power up of the transformer instead of just one.
 
I think the original design leads to corrosion of the contacts when not used for quite some time, I doubt I will see any issues in the near future with the new units.
 
Two excellent ideas. I was considering disconnecting the outlets in back, I never use them.
 
Two excellent ideas. I was considering disconnecting the outlets in back, I never use them.


You could disconnect that wire and attach it with the other, but the jumper keeps the outlets usable, I just figure if the receiver is ever passed on to someone else, the outlets can be used.
 
Great folks to deal with. I have used HH cans in a lot of gear, though I did bite the bullet and got AuthentiCaps for my MC240.
 
I've used HH can's in all of my FISHER consoles, receivers, and separates with the exception of the 51' coronet and the 58 Contemporary where I used JJ 50uf/50uf @ 500v cans( https://www.tubesandmore.com/products/capacitor-jj-electronics-500v-5050-f-electrolytic ) from AES. @ $8.95each, I just couldn't pass up the deal. And I've never had a problem with any of the HH cans. Granted they are cosmetically different looking, but i feel they add a classier feel to any of the chassis'.
 
Just completed the 500-C, this is a beauty with all mostly original tubes except for the outputs. She is just begging for a wood cabinet though.
This was my first power switch replacement on Fisher Tube receivers, glad it turned out well. Now all that is left is the all original 400, I might just install an inrush limiter and call it good, hate to take away any originality if possible.

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