Tice Power Block info needed

marknoir

Active Member
Hello
Not sure if I’m in correct forum. Couldn’t find anything for power conditioners :))) I got myself the original Tice Power Block in decent shape. It’s missing the fuse and the screw-in fuse holder cap. So I need to know which fuse goes in there (I found a complete new fuse holder on ebay). Also, I don’t know the combinations of front switches. Anybody out there knows?
Thank you
 
These were reviewed in Stereophile magazine in the early 90’s(?), to great controversy.

You might check their archive for info.
 
Odd fuse size, maybe I can dig mine out or find a pic of it. manual attached.
 

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Good thing the pages are numbered.
 

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Hello, it seems many have enjoyed the "Tice Power Block" Blues; include me, one arrived today and as expected the transformer banged around inside, nicely pulling the connectors from the switches. Manual was included but there is no wiring scheme to be found. Would it be possible to send some information or a picture of the connections? Sure I could go to the shipper and cry but they won't fix it. Any insight would be appreciated. Mike
 
Hello
Not sure if I’m in correct forum. Couldn’t find anything for power conditioners :))) I got myself the original Tice Power Block in decent shape. It’s missing the fuse and the screw-in fuse holder cap. So I need to know which fuse goes in there (I found a complete new fuse holder on ebay). Also, I don’t know the combinations of front switches. Anybody out there knows?
Thank you
Hi, Welcome to AK.

Post some pictures, drag and drop, and I'll see if I can help you with this. My files don't seem to have the pics I need but maybe in my originals I have some.
Thank you for the reply, I'll put some together tomorrow. It should be simple there are only three wires on each switch, when I opened the box this afternoon I heard the tell tale sign of rattle and saw the sheared mounts. Of course the outlets were pushed around as well but that's no issue. Sadly I did not get this unit free.
 
Tice Front.jpeg Tice front 2.jpeg Tice Rear.jpeg
The front panel on the Secondary switch side there are the three black leads, one with the white sleeving comes directly from the rear outlets on the hot side. The other two from the transformer, one of which is marked 4A on the transformer. The white leads running from the rear side of the transformer, one marked 2A and the other from the center tap are fed underneath and go to the Primary switch. At the wire nut connection the remaining white lead also runs to the Primary switch.
On each switch only the outer tabs seem to have had the spade lug pushed on. In hindsight a simple schematic by the manufacturer, originally, would have been nice.
 
I'll assume perhaps that the hot coming from the outlets would connect to the Secondary switch center position, and the wire nut neutral to the Primary switch center position. The Secondary switch position 4 tab to the 4A transformer lead, and the Primary switch position 2 tab to the 2A lead from the transformer. Taps marked 4A and 2A are visible in the pictures; disregard the "Text" showing in one of the shots, it wouldn't let me remove it.
Tanks for any assistance you can offer. Mike
 
Hello
Not sure if I’m in correct forum. Couldn’t find anything for power conditioners :))) I got myself the original Tice Power Block in decent shape. It’s missing the fuse and the screw-in fuse holder cap. So I need to know which fuse goes in there (I found a complete new fuse holder on ebay). Also, I don’t know the combinations of front switches. Anybody out there knows?
Thank you
If you've seen my post I have a similar problem, all the connections were pulled form the switch spade lugs, and I'm trying to determine what lead goes where. Could you offer any insight? Thanks, Mike
 
Please let me know if there are any inconsistencies in this document and I'll give it an edit.

Well I think I have finished the Tice Power Block Service Manual, mostly written to effect repairs from shipping damage which breaks the mounts and pulls the wiring loose.

Tice Power Block Service Manual
The Allen sockets are 5/32” and the nuts on the isolation pads are 7/32".
The isolation bushings are ¼”-20 x 3/4” both ends, 1”D x 3/4” height rubber McMasterCarr part number: https://www.mcmaster.com/9213k15

For transportation the transformer isolation blocks should be removed and replaced with bolts, short at the bottom and long at the top, held with stop nuts onto the transformer legs. Bottom bolts can be ½” or more as they will just bolt the transformer legs to the chassis. Since the ¾” bushing is removed top and bottom the top bolts need to be longer, 2” should work. Using ¼" - 20 bolts would allow use of the same nuts as used on the bushings.

The transformer has 3 connections on each side. These are labeled 1, 2 and 2A on the rear of the unit and labeled 3, 4 and 4A on the meter side.

There are 2-3µF polypropylene capacitors one on the front transformer from terminal 3 to 4 and one on the back of the transformer from terminals 1 to 2.

Wire colors for the Titan add-on go to these terminals :

Rear set
1 Blue
2 Red
2A Black

Front set
3 Brown
4 Yellow
4A Orange

All wires on the Primary switch (selection 1 and 2) are white. All wires on the Secondary switch (selection 3 and 4) are black. Switch positions are being numbered top to bottom for this document.

The power comes in on White, Green and Black

Green goes immediately to the outlet bank ground and these are jumped together for all outlets.

Black goes to the fuse input (side connection) the fuse output (end) goes to terminal 1 on the transformer.

White goes to a 3-wire, wire nut junction with one going to Primary Switch position 2. The other White goes through a varistor (V150LA20A) and then to the fuse input. The fuse has two input connections, the Varistor and the black line input.

Terminal connections on transformer back side by outlets
1-From the fuse and the capacitor
2-Primary Switch Position 3 and capacitor
2A-Primary Switch Position 1

Terminal connections on transformer front side connections
3-Outlets Brass, Capacitor and Meter
4-Secondary Switch Position 1, Lamps and Capacitor
4A-Secondary Switch Position 3 and Lamps

Primary switch
1 Transformer 2A
2 White line input at Wire nut
3 Transformer 2

Secondary switch
1 Transformer 4, Lamps and Capacitor
2 Silver Outlets and Meter through VR+R
3 Transformer 4A and Lamps

Not documented are the resistor and VR in line with the meter.
The lamps are 12V probably 4w.
The fuse is an FNM-15, a dual element fuse.
 
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Please let me know if there are any inconsistencies in this document and I'll give it an edit.

First I just want to say Thank you for the time and trouble you put into this information, it made this task much easier. I was able to test it immediately after following your instructions and had no issues with it producing line voltage. Getting the switch settings to match what the manual stated they should be is another matter.
It wasn't until I noticed that the wires from the outlets had been reversed and corrected that, the switch settings were then accurate. I think the manual is somewhat confusing as in if the line voltage is high, then you set switches to reduce it, or set to boost it. In either case a 10 to 12 volt swing is probably unnecessary, as nominal line voltage here in Western Maryland hardly ever wavers from 119-124. If it went above 130 or below 112 I'd think our local power company would want to know.
I'll revisit the wiring tomorrow and let you know if there is anything marginally different from what you'd sent. Didn't notice until later but this unit is a Series II and does not have lights for the meter, all else looks the same.
I'll have to replace the outlets, they were pushed out of position and one of the mounting ears was broken. Two of the wires in the Titan harness were scraped open and the chassis grip that holds the cable was shattered. McMaster-Carr shipped me the mounts about as fast as any one could expect so that is taken care of; as for the "TPT" treated wire, honestly who knows.
Perhaps in the future I'll be able to answer a question for you or other members for some tidbit of information lost in time. Again I say Thank You! Mike
 
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