Tips/Tricks Dealing with Very Heavy MC Amps

Work out, lift weights, have strong friends, buy models that don't have output transformers or autoformers. Get a hydraulic lift cart. Don't buy tube units, they are always needing servicing, at least annually. Keep all the units cool, they run longer that way. My little 2505 that weighs a ton now that I am over 70, isn't, to bad. But the 207's are a pain. 83 lbs each and the slightly smaller 206. Thats hard on old retired guys. I am glad I don't have a bunch of 3500's or MC 500's. .
 
Either that or see if this guy's available ...

McJuggling.jpg
 
My MC300 will sit on its shelf until after I'm gone. My daughter and her husband will have to figure out what to do with it then. Not only was it incredibly heavy, but you have to worry about the glass when moving it. My recommendation is to leave a unit of this size or greater lying on an open floor next to a speaker rather than trying to push it onto a shelf or into a cabinet.
MC300_2.jpg
 
Putting a McIntosh amp on the floor

I'd not want to put an expensive amp, especially one with glass panel on the floor for a number of reasons:
  1. Difficult to set down and lift,
  2. Difficult to connect cables and operate controls,
  3. Contamination with more dust and dirt, or not as obvious,
  4. Susceptible to damage from shoes, pets, kids, floor vacs,
  5. Not as pleasing to the eye,
  6. Back or other injury from lifting.

Survey of other Mc amp weight : . MC300 - 79 lbs, MC2255 - 82 lbs, MC2205 - 85 lbs

Ergonomically speaking, from the Greek work Ergo: https://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/ἔργον

It would be best IMHO to set heavy amps on a stand (or stands) of minimum height equal to the distance from your "hand grasp" while standing up straight to the floor. In other words, walking up to the unit on its stand and being able to grasp the knobs with arm out straight (and down) without bending. That also goes for lifting and moving the amp.

measurement_floor_sm.jpg
Ok go ahead and laugh.. use thumb to mark the tape reading.

Another way to measure is.. hold you hands down in front of you as if holding an empty box from the bottom with arms full extended. That is the minimum height to lift an Amp from [a stand] without bending.


Big bucks


If I was investing 2000, 5000 or 7000 buck in a precision amplifier, I'd build a stand or custom table (end tables) for it, and invest in a foam or felt-lined cover to go over top. That is, one with a top and 4 sides.. the back side could be shorter for cables, etc. One AK'er I know is very good at making furniture from hardwood.


Cabinet Installation

If installing in a cabinet, you might need to built a service fixture (stand) to set the amp on in front of the cabinet opening with same height criteria as above. In some cases a cart (with wheels) would be good to transfer and move the amp.

Leather or work gloves might help when lifting or moving to get a better grip and avoid hand injury. In a shop situation, more work can be done with less injury when wearing gloves.


According to the above, my amp compartment is a few inches low.

amp_cabinet_height.jpg


BTW, I can still lift the 2205 and carry it to the workbench 20 feet away.


-Greg
 
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A don't know if there is a typo on RR's website but I found the MC300 to be incredibly heavy to lift. It's hard to believe the autoformers and power transformer of a 300 w amp weight less than a 200 w amp. Also, if you are going to put the amp in a cabinet it usually will end up near the bottom because the base is structurally much strongs than shelves supported at the edges. I have never seen a cabinet like yours with a storage area at the bottom with a stronger shelf above it. I have a beautiful teak stereo cabinet from the 80's. My MC2125 will fit but my MC300 is too wide. I would only put an amp at the bottom anyway. Sorry about the quality of the photo and all the junk in there. These three pieces are just in storage and not hooked up.

System 1 sm.jpg
 
That mat is huge. It would be good for the floor or to cover a whole table. You going to buy one? Let us know how it works out.

I have two bench mats made of ribbed (v-grove) rubber traction mat as in the link above in this thread:


One is 22-1/2" x 17" with grooves running L-R, the other being 22-1/2" x 20" with groves running F-B which is preferred. You could get at least 2, maybe 3 mats from the 24" x 48" piece, and for about the same price.

Buy both and do a report. :thumbsup:


-Greg
 
A don't know if there is a typo on RR's website but I found the MC300 to be incredibly heavy to lift. — if you are going to put the amp in a cabinet it usually will end up near the bottom because the base is structurally much stronger than shelves supported at the edges. — I would only put an amp at the bottom anyway.

Spec sheet: https://www.hifiengine.com/manual_library/mcintosh/mc300.shtml

35.8 KG = 79 LBS

In college, the DA-A10 Power Amp was at the top of the rack, which was made of 2x4s and furring strips (space cadet photo). The knobs were just about the highest you could reach, opposite from the post above. The rack was wedged between the ceiling and floor, tied in with shelving, and could not be moved or tipped.


We rocked the place!


-Greg
 
Another example of hangover, errr overhang!

2505_voltage_check.jpg

Again hanging off the LEFT edge of the bench upside down.


Would still have to recommend 1/8" thick ribbed rubber mat for tech work


-Greg
 
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