Todays Speakers vs Vintage Speakers

I new that was coming. No I did not.
No worries. Just want to understand the details of your informal test.

Naturally, placement in the room does make a difference and could account for some of the variation.

I was a bit surprised by the Advent results. But then, they weren't designed for near ceiling placement. :)
 
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No worries. Just want to understand the details of your informal test.

Naturally, placement in the room does make a difference and could account for some of the variation.
Heaps of variation. But better to play what you got than not.
 
True. Just understand that your findings do not necessarily provide comparative information.

Those closest to floor and ceiling got a boost.
The only thing remotely comparative is they made noise or not. But, I do have an appetite for testing now. Seems to be the next logical step to learn.
The Bozak's were 2 feet up, the Rec's and Pioneers on the floor. Dynaco's and W70D's 6 feet up.
 
Oh ya, lets mention one more thing that shouldn't exist without modern materials and computer modeling - the SR71 Blackbird.

...and the Saturn IV rocket, Apollo capsule, and the LEM.

Not to mention all those dang bridges and aquaducts those silly Romans built...
 
The same science is in play with home stereo but hasn't been adhered to like it is in pro audio and the power numbers in HI FI are minuscule in comparison. ( for instance a QSC PLX 3602 bridged will provide 3600 watts into a two ohm load musured RMS not peak power using less than 20 amps out of the wall under load..

I know that's what the specs say (with 11.5 amperes 120 Volts), but how does this work?

20I x 120V = 2400 Watts That's with a unity power factor (no correction for inductive or reactive loads). Real-world AC power will be <2400 watts unless you are running a purely resistive load. Unless the wall outlet is 240 Vac, then 4800 watts is available.

If you can put in 2400 Watts into a device and get out 3600 Watts, you should have just won the Nobel prize for physics.

Someone please explain this to me. I'm not an EE, but I've spent a good part of my career generating both AC and DC power.
 
Sure.

With respect to true bottom octave performance, however, the speakers really need to be in the space in which they were intended.
The only empty room left if the house is 10x12x8. I would like to use it for testing speakers one at a time. A sound lab. Other wise empty. Will it work? Or to small?
 
I know that's what the specs say (with 11.5 amperes 120 Volts), but how does this work?

20I x 120V = 2400 Watts That's with a unity power factor (no correction for inductive or reactive loads). Real-world AC power will be <2400 watts unless you are running a purely resistive load. Unless the wall outlet is 240 Vac, then 4800 watts is available.

If you can put in 2400 Watts into a device and get out 3600 Watts, you should have just won the Nobel prize for physics.

Someone please explain this to me. I'm not an EE, but I've spent a good part of my career generating both AC and DC power.

Probably best direct your question to Bob Lee at QSC as they manufacture it . I'm only guilty of using them on hundreds and hundreds of jobs over the last 15 years and reading the manuals. I'm also assuming you read the non bridged specs but I have no idea.
 
The only empty room left if the house is 10x12x8. I would like to use it for testing speakers one at a time. A sound lab. Other wise empty. Will it work? Or to small?
It will work, but square rooms are rife with modes that will give you bumpy results.
 
Is there a cure?
Ideally, rooms where the dimension ratios follow the “golden rule” or Fibonacci series which is approximately 1.6 exhibit the most linear results.

Lucky lad that I am, my 25x16 room at 1.56 is pretty close. I get wonderful results with the stats:

U-1PX_response.jpg
 
Probably best direct your question to Bob Lee at QSC as they manufacture it . I'm only guilty of using them on hundreds and hundreds of jobs over the last 15 years and reading the manuals. I'm also assuming you read the non bridged specs but I have no idea.

Not that interested. I'm sure we have a few EEs on here. I was hoping one of them would comment.

I've also seen the air compressors sold by Sears and others rated at 5 horsepower, but run on 20 or 30 amp circuits. I even own one. They are in no way, shape, or form 5 horsepower compressors.

A watt is a watt. The physics doesn't work.

Please don't take offense, but what kind of engineer are you?
 
Not that interested. I'm sure we have a few EEs on here. I was hoping one of them would comment.

I've also seen the air compressors sold by Sears and others rated at 5 horsepower, but run on 20 or 30 amp circuits. I even own one. They are in no way, shape, or form 5 horsepower compressors.

A watt is a watt. The physics doesn't work.

Please don't take offense, but what kind of engineer are you?

Live sound Front of House Engineer and system architect .. Numerous PA systems of my own as well as regular walk ins on many platforms. Full time music business person for 35 plus years.
 
Ross6860 is correct that a watt is a watt, and you can't get any more than 2400 watts continuous out of a 20 amp circuit at 120 volts. Technically speaking you can run a 4.8 HP motor on a 30 amp circuit at 120 volts if the motor is 100% efficient (but they aren't). I am not an EE, but I do have a computer engineering degree (a CS degree with a concentration of courses in EE).

I'm sure it's possible to plug in equipment that has a potential to draw more than 3600 watts, but is never stressed to run flat out at full current draw.
 
These Class ”D” switching Amp’s are so interesting. The ones I am using are very clean. The biggest trouble I had setting up the W45 system was getting the drivers for the ASUS Xonar Essence STX to play nice with jRiver 24. It was a matter of disabling the EQ stuff. jRiver has Layer upon layer of audio settings. It even has a clipping filter. The published power specs for the W35 is 10 Watts minimum and 40 Watts maximum, the W45 10 Watts minimum and 45 Watts Maximum. The Yamaha in stereo mode 95 X 2 into 8 Ohms. I am not going to take the chance of damaging these Wharfedale’s their drivers are just too hard to find.
 
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