Toroidal transformer cover

The AnTek covers are built like brick $hithouse. They are actually an integral mounting system/cover. Bear in mind the cover cannot touch the mounting surface, presuming it's mounted to a metal panel, as it will create a shorted turn. The cover and mount has an integral 0.050" air gap but unless the mounting panel is very rigid it's not to hard to close the gap. I made insulated mount bushings for mine, basically the same concept as you see for transistors, but larger. It increases the air gap but more importantly with the bushing the transformer mount/cover is electrically isolated from the mounting panel/chassis.

Quite a number of people suggest any sort of cover, like small aluminum pans or whatever.
 
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End caps for PVC pipe. Can be turned in a bench-top lathe to adjust sizes.
 
I use a copper pipe caps, with a copper 1/4x20 bolt brazed inside, then use some 175F micro-crystalline wax to pot the transformer. Get yourself a cheap double boiler, or if your better half is anywhere near as mean as mine, life will suck until you get Her's replaced. I never could figure out how to get that last little wax film out of the pot, or the pot out of the wax if you happen to be cooking brownies while you build, like some of the Twangfest crew who's names will remain silent to protect the guilty. :smoke: Oh, I always try to tell myself that the copper affords us a wee bit of shielding, as those damn caps ain't cheap, unless your day job is a pipefitter and they will just let ya borrow a couple until they need them back. Makes nice deck rail too. Ha, the nice patina on the deck railing comes from when it's too cold for old Leroy Brown to carry his fat ass all the way down the stairs before he lifts his leg. :)
Edit; On those two rascals there, I wanted to paint them too, and the heat needed for a good strong braze caused some warping so we, ended up with maybe a CC thickness around and about. Now don't be calling my screen driver a Bondo Buggy. :rolleyes:
 

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I like the copper pipe caps. I'll have to find out if they sell them in the sizes I need. Thanks guys.
 
A long time ago I ordered AnTek cases for some AnTek torroids. They didn't fit. After corresponding with AnTek, it seemed like they hand-fit the torroids to the cases, seemed like there was a little margin of error for physical sizes.
 
A long time ago I ordered AnTek cases for some AnTek torroids. They didn't fit. After corresponding with AnTek, it seemed like they hand-fit the torroids to the cases, seemed like there was a little margin of error for physical sizes.

They list specific sized relative to the VA of the transformer. Whether or not they hand select if you order a set I can't vouch for.

But, to the overall point, I can absolutely confirm there is effectively no extra room in the 200VA toroid case with 200VA AnTek toroid inside. I ordered toroids and cases at the same time and they came pre-assembled. That lends some credence to the select fit comments.
 
The covers I ordered (that did not fit) corresponded to the specific model of transformer I had in hand from a previous order. YMMV.
 
But, to the overall point, I can absolutely confirm there is effectively no extra room in the 200VA toroid case with 200VA AnTek toroid inside. I ordered toroids and cases at the same time and they came pre-assembled. That lends some credence to the select fit comments.
I recently had a similar experience with an AnTek 100VA toroid. I was planning to add a few turns to optimize one of the secondary voltages, but that turned out to be essentially impossible due to the close fit of the supplied housing. There was enough room for wires to cross over between the chassis and transformer, however.
 
I must say that the *LAST* thing I expected to see you asking for is a beauty cover available ready made...:) I figured you'd take some piece the rest of us labeled junk, and retreat to your shop...and return with what you needed for the build.

In that vein, Cu pipe the right diameter can be worked to close the end...just remember as you work it, it hardens. Anneal by taking it to red hot and quench in water. Or cover it with a 90-degree, and use the open end to mount a large meter( current or voltage, as needed ). Sort of like the tach on a Monarch 10EE lathe...
cheers,
Douglas
 
Those painted covers are actually cu pipe brazed onto a flat piece of copper. If you look close, you can tell the corners aren't rounded. I had forgotten until I read Paks post. Go to a copper scrapper, they will sell you the stuff a lot cheaper than a regular metal shop.
 
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