Toshiba HR-50(?) cross field headphones

[62vauxhall]

Ten or more years ago I wound up with this pair of Toshiba headphones with a slide switch to, for lack of a better description, engage/disengage the cross field effect. The very first thing I did upon acquiring these headphones was break the switch. It was stuck and I pushed too hard.

Does anyone know how or if these can be taken apart? When it happened, I drove myself to frustration trying to figure it out then tossed them in a box of miscellaneous for future pondering. They came to mind just now as I was exploring this forum.

This is from memory so bear with me. Would the driver plate twist and lift off the ear cup as I thought it should or do some small rivets need to drilled out?

The objective is to fix/replace the switch and give the headphones a listen experiencing for myself, first hand cross field in all it's splendour.

 

[bigx5murf]

After removing the pads, the aluminum grill is glued in place, if you can lift it off with a razor, it'll expose the screws to open the cups.

 

[62vauxhall]

After removing the pads, the aluminum grill is glued in place, if you can lift it off with a razor, it'll expose the screws to open the cups.

I completely forgot that I started this thread and you were the only responder.

So thanks!

I moved out of town last April and just rediscovered those Toshiba phones. Which made me remember posting about them

 

[bigx5murf]

Not even sure if I still have mine, I had a few vintage Japanese cans I've since sold. IMO vintage cans really can't compete with modern the way other components might.

I'm mostly only using a pair of modified Fostex t50rp mk2 nowadays (I know these are a vintage design, but the current iterations have lots of refinement).

 

[62vauxhall]

After however long it's been, fifteen years or so, I finally dug out these headphones and got them apart. But to correct bigx5murph, it is the plate/decal that pries off exposing a screw, not the mesh grilles. That never occured to me way back when but I never tried disassembling headphones either.

The switch I thought was broken, wasn't. It had become malformed by brute force trying to make it move but with some lubricating contact cleaner and squeezing metal tabs back imto position with pliers, it works. Being as they were already apart, I tested the two non-polarized capacitors and both were nearly twice as high as they should have been so I replaced them.

Put the headphones back together for a listen and the left side is dead. Took that side apart again, checked continuity of the cord which was good then did same with the driver's voice coil. It was open.

So after hanging on to these things for as long as I did, I find out they are futched.