TPA 3116 vs the tripaths

My remaining question about that option is if we are sure that the powered sub amp alters the input to output line signal at all.
A powered sub's speaker level input "reads" the signal in the same way that a voltmeter reads the voltage in a line (high input impedance). The voltage is not driving anything, but the sub's internal amp tracks the changes in voltage that it sees at the speaker inputs. So there should be absolutely no alteration to the signal. In theory, of course. This is why I originally suggested this route, rather than splitting the line-level input signal from the CCA.
 
I would recommend a slow-blow fuse. That way musical peaks don't instantly blow the fuse. Out of curiosity, why the fuse? It's not like you would have to worry about power spikes and line anomalies when your amp is running off a battery.


I was not originally thinking of using a fuse.

The fuse holder fell out of a box of small parts on to my foot when I was looking for parts to connect and charge the battery.

I took it as a sign.

So, I really don't need a fuse?
 
I don't believe a fuse would hurt anything necessarily, but it really wouldn't help anything either. Generally a fuse would go between house mains power and the power transformer inside the amp, but in this case there is no mains power and no transformer, since the battery is already supplying 12V. The worst that would happen AFAIK, if the amp shorted internally, is that the battery would drain quickly and get warm.
 
Take a DMM, voltmeter, and measure resistance between subwoofer black speaker inputs, you can also measure to rca shield and to chassis.
 
So, I really don't need a fuse?

You'd want a fuse. If its DC power to a TPA3116, a DC rated fuse.
If the "unthinkable" arises, you'd be thankful for the fuse being in place.
There are alot of unthinkables with shorted batteries. Fire being one. Sulphuric acid all over the place being another.
 
You'd want a fuse. If its DC power to a TPA3116, a DC rated fuse.
If the "unthinkable" arises, you'd be thankful for the fuse being in place.
There are alot of unthinkables with shorted batteries. Fire being one. Sulphuric acid all over the place being another.


Thank you.

That is along the lines of my thinking. Makes sense to me.
 
You'd want a fuse. If its DC power to a TPA3116, a DC rated fuse.
If the "unthinkable" arises, you'd be thankful for the fuse being in place.
There are alot of unthinkables with shorted batteries. Fire being one. Sulphuric acid all over the place being another.


One more question:

What is a "DC rated fuse?"
 
One more question:
What is a "DC rated fuse?"

Hi CKDC,

A DC fuse (as opposed to an AC one) has more headroom to interrupt the flow of current (act like a fuse) without the current flow arcing across the points after the fuse has blown.
Some derate the voltage rating of an AC fuse by half for DC conditions.
To the best of my understanding, most blade fuses for automotive use are DC rated.
 
For those needing around 20V DC power for a chip amp, you may want to try one of these small DIN mountable supplies from TDK Lambda: http://www.us.tdk-lambda.com/lp/products/dpp-series.htm. They re typically used in HVAC systems but put out decent power and are adjustable. I am using one as a power supply for a Pass B1 preamp. I made a cute little aluminum case for it that matches the preamp case. I purchased it off Ebay for around $20, IIRC.
 
I've continued my experiments with power supplies for the volt+.
I have used the following.
1. 12 volt lithium ion battery extender (Anker Pro 2)
2. 12 volt laptop power supply 5 amp.
3. 19 volt laptop power supply 2.5 amp Lenovo
4. 19 Volt laptop power supply 4.9 amp Asus
5. 13.6 (12 volt listed) linear regulated power supply Astron 12BB. `12 AMP peak, but probably more like 7 continuous (found it on Craigslist and wound up with 3 of them if anyone wants to buy one)
6. 24 volt 12 amp linear regulated power supply Power One. (also Craigslist but more expensive $50)

first, the 19 volt 4.9 amp supply from Asus sounds very good to my ear. I found mine on E-bay for $6 shipped. It's clearly the best value and the least obtrusive.
The 12 volt laptop supply works fine, but it's not as dynamic. The 19 volt Lenovo supply with lower amperage was also fine, but maybe wasn't quite as full sounding.

the battery has this very beguiling creamy sound. There's lots of bass. fwiw, it actually seems louder than the 19 volt laptop supplies. It's fun, but it's like there's sort of a soft curtain around the music, maybe because the
highs seemed to roll off a little. Obviously, it has the advantage of being very portable.

I would disagree with the one reviewer here who said that a laptop supply sounds better than the Astron on the Volt +. With the Astron, there's more detail, the bass is much more solid, etc. especially at higher volumes.
You do have to turn the volume up a ways though.

For me, the winner was the power one, but it's not an immediately noticeable difference. It's cleaner and quieter at low volume. I can pick up touch on instruments a bit better, especially percussion. I especially noticed that harmony between voices and instruments is better defined. Interestingly, there's really very little difference volume wise between 24 volts and 19. It may be that I listen in a 12X12 foot room. In fact, there's not much difference between 12, 19, and 24. Actually, that makes sense, since if you double power, you only get a 3 db increase in volume. What I do get is a greater sense of control. A Ford Focus and a Mercedes can both go 90 miles an hour, but that speed feels very different inside each vehicle (stopping, handling, changing gears, etc.) I did find that I had to adjust the voltage dropout on the Volt+'s capacitance multiplier for the Power One.

Here's the downside. The Power One is huge, probably double the length of the Astron. It's not in a box; it's just a heavy duty rack mount frame with a very large transformer and a circuit board that's easily 4 times the size of the volt+ board. They originally retailed for close to $300 while the Astrons are around $120. There's a law of diminishing returns with this stuff. I do prefer it to the other power supplies I've tried, but I'd say the 19 volt laptop power is more than satisfactory.
 
Same here, with 98db speakers and a 12V/5A laptop brick I barely have room to even adjust the volume before the wife says it is too loud. Every once in a while I think about getting a 19V power supply, but then reconsider.
 
Despite being initially skeptical about power conditioning for a switched mode supply, something like a PS Audio Dectet (passive filtering) before the power supply has offered some decent gains with my amp setup.

With my 86db speakers and the rest of the setup, i found the increased supply voltage to be a good thing.
 
Last edited:
My speakers are about 89 DB (scanspeak 6.5" woofer and scanspeak revelator dome tweeter) and the extra power does make a difference. That said, I do think the Power one sounds better at low volumes as well.
It's not just switching vs. linear/regulated or voltage A vs voltage B. I do think there are some quality differences between linear/regulated supplies. To me, the Power One and the Astron are very close. Oddly, I found that with the Astron I did tend to turn the volume up a lot. The Power One may ultimately play louder, but I find myself listening at lower volumes more.

btw, I also have a Breeze Audio tpa 3116 which has a very high gain setting. We use them for watching television with a pair of Radio Shack Lx5 speakers (81.5 db). 12 volts via a laptop switchmode supply is plenty loud even in a fairly large space.
 
Of the many speakers I built over the years, these were the best, probably because I had a lot of help. Brian Smith of A&S Audio designed the crossovers and I had a cabinet maker build 1/2 inch corian pyramids. The Revelator remains my favorite dome tweeter, but they cost more than some very good finished speakers.
I have wondered if cones and domes and horn-loaded speakers may need different sorts of amps. I notice that hardly anyone on this thread is using electrostatics or full-range ribbons.
 
Of the many speakers I built over the years, these were the best, probably because I had a lot of help. Brian Smith of A&S Audio designed the crossovers and I had a cabinet maker build 1/2 inch corian pyramids. The Revelator remains my favorite dome tweeter, but they cost more than some very good finished speakers.
I have wondered if cones and domes and horn-loaded speakers may need different sorts of amps. I notice that hardly anyone on this thread is using electrostatics or full-range ribbons.

Would love to see some pictures of the speakers.
 
Back
Top Bottom