TPA 3116 vs the tripaths

That's the problem with these chip amps -- they're cheap enough to keep trying out different versions, but the individual purchases add up over time to the point that a 'high end' unit could have been purchased. Still, it's fun to experiment.

That's a lot of chip amps! Meanwhile I have maybe a dozen and I'd really enjoy an A/B shootout with some of my (semi-) high-end amps because (and I need to say this quietly) I'm not convinced I can tell sheet from shinola, at moderate listening levels anyway. It would be awesome to know for sure. I may 'try this at home' but it would be easier (and more fun) with a couple extra hands. Alas, my (local) friends are not into audio!

I currently drive four of these 15" Eminence Alpha woofers with a single TPA3116 (12V ) amp. Connected in parallel the 8 ohm Alphas become a 4ohm load so the 3116 produces up to 20 wpc. That's plenty of power for 97db woofers.

Funny you should mention (and funny I should check this thread today) because I'm in the process of doing something similar, though with smaller bookshelf monitors. Bought these tiny coaxial Teacs (because I think they're neat-looking) and the only place I can find for them is in a subsidiary Chromecast Audio zone where I've already installed a Lepai with a couple of Polk monitors. Not exactly the high-end zone, but again, I wonder if I could fool people. Or even myself.

For a while I used this bad boy TPA3116 ( 24V ) mono sub amp but the volume control became so noisy I retired it and replaced with a stereo version ( 24V ) + an active crossover. Driving 4 woofers ( 4 ohms ) dang if it wasn't stable to 2 ohms. Not many amps can do that.

May I just say, I never ever get tired of reading your contributions!
 
That's a lot of chip amps! Meanwhile I have maybe a dozen and I'd really enjoy an A/B shootout with some of my (semi-) high-end amps because (and I need to say this quietly) I'm not convinced I can tell sheet from shinola, at moderate listening levels anyway. It would be awesome to know for sure. I may 'try this at home' but it would be easier (and more fun) with a couple extra hands. Alas, my (local) friends are not into audio!



Funny you should mention (and funny I should check this thread today) because I'm in the process of doing something similar, though with smaller bookshelf monitors. Bought these tiny coaxial Teacs (because I think they're neat-looking) and the only place I can find for them is in a subsidiary Chromecast Audio zone where I've already installed a Lepai with a couple of Polk monitors. Not exactly the high-end zone, but again, I wonder if I could fool people. Or even myself.



May I just say, I never ever get tired of reading your contributions!

Thanks. Those Teacs are sweet. Hide a small sub close by and you're in business.
 
So based on this info, the ideal power supply would be 26 volts / 6.3 amps maximum. Correct?

TI technical specs for TPA 3116/8 are based on 24 volts.
In that data, 26 volts is shown as "max", 30 volts as "absolute max".
However, everything above 24 volts is a matter of diminishing returns because of the current protection system.

Imo, a 24v 6a supply is the effective limit for a single chip TPA 3116 amplifier.
Having more volts is basically useless after that point.
Having more current on tap is fine, but pushing things until you're consistently drawing 6+ amps is trouble.
TI shows 6.3 amps as "absolute max" current....which is really only achievable at 4ohms or under.

With a 24v supply, you run a greater chance of tripping the protection circuits because of increased current draw, even as you're still within a reasonably low THD range.
In other words, by comparison with a supply running even just few volts less, you'll have less audible warning [via distortion] that you might be pushing the unit too hard.

I've never been interested in the effect of higher voltages on these amps simply because I'm in search of max power.
If they sounded the same to me at both 12v and 19v-24v, then I probably wouldn't bother. But they don't.

Currently, my two TPA 3118 units are running on 19-20 volts.

Truth is, if you really need more power, then you should look to the dual chip "bridged" TPA 3116 amplifiers....or the TPA 3250/1/5 based amplifiers.
 
Available voltage is an Ohms law calculation re loading vs power. Speaker systems have an averaged loading rating that deviates, sometimes markedly. While the chip may not have problems driving a lower resistance at at a lower voltage, upward deviations need more voltage to maintain current provision and power for predictable performance.
 
I have no idea! Anyone? It's an MA6500.

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Anyway, had to play some vintage Queen last night and got up to 10 watts. It was loud.

Apologies to PG for the diversion here!
 
They are analogue. Afaik, all McIntosh output meters on everything are analogue. Sort of a trademark with them.
 
Well, except for their LED power meters on the 7106 etc. Just to be nitpicky here of course.

mcintosh_mc7106_6-channel_power_amplifier.jpg


But yeah, the analogue needle-style meters are obviously their trademark.
 
Now what I do think is cool is their new tuner which has an LED indicator rather than a physical pointer.
It doesn't actually move--instead, the LEDs change illumination.
Promise I'll stop waylaying the thread now.

MR87-Front-Top.ashx
 
You fellas were right about higher voltage. I hooked my Nobsound '3116 to a 6 amp, 24v switching power supply today. High frequency harshness is gone, and it sounds just as clean as can be. I could seriously retire my main amp. It's on the back burner for now. It's not forgiving of overly bright, splashy recordings or poor mastering, but on known "audiophile" recordings, it really shines.
 
While the McIntosh images above cosmetically look fine to my eyes, (preferably, MA6500) the hybrid offering MA252 is as homely as a mud fence IMO...OTOH, others may think it looks great.

McIntosh-MA252-Integrated-Amplifie2.jpg
 
I'm getting whiplash on this thread...getting my brain to flip between McIntosh hardware and our penny-wise 3116 builds...
 
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