NJ Phoenix; My conclusion is that they are so close, it's not worth worrying about. Case in point. I have Tung-Sols in the 63' Executive(800c based), mainly for heat reduction on the top, and EH's in the 800c stand-alone. They are pretty much identical underneath, with the stand-alone having Dave's Alternate Balance/Bias adjustment board, and the Exec's 800c having the original IBAM. NO EFB, but they both have Phono PEC Replacement boards. Exec has IC MKP .068uf output coupling caps and the standalone has Cornell Dublier DME series .082uf output coupling caps. Both sets are biased to plate voltage of 432 volts for the standalone (15.55W per tube not including the screen dissipation) and the Exec. @ 390V on the plate and 40ma for 15.6Watts per tube not including the screen dissipation) If you include the screen dissipation of 3ma you get 12.55w and 12.6w. This is as high as I will set them up. These are close enough to be indistinguishable by ear.
My Sansui 1000A is using Tung-Sols now. The EH's were too close to the transformers and each other that the ambient temps in those two valleys were above 160*F. Even tho they ran very well at ear bleed volume levels, I was concerned about their longevity. I don't advocate the use of fans normally but the 1000A is one that damn near requires it. After placing HVAC Aluminum tape on the transformer bells, opening up the metal heat shield between the tube area and the front of the unit, and replacing the power resistors with surface mounted ones (spread around the chassis now) I got the temps to about 140*F. Putting in the Tung-Sols further reduced the heat to under 140*F in the tube valleys. No difference in SQ that I can tell. They are run @ 32ma with 478 on the plates and 425 on the screens (nominal is 470v and 420v ) for 15.3W on each tube.Subtracting screen dissipation would give 12.3W per. I would highly recommend the Tung-Sols in the 1000A over the EH's due to heat load in the normal 1000A. Same thing with most Scotts and Sherwoods with the small chassis and angled tube sockets.
BACK TO THE FISHERS;
Using Sansui SP-200's (2 sets) and doing an A/B test using 2 turntables with identical V15-III cartridges and Elliptical styli, I hear no difference between them. I didn't push them above 12:00 on the volume. All controls were centered or in the off position for testing.
If you have the room above and around the socket and don't really care about the large bottle, get the EH's. If you have OCD bad enough to make a blind man see, or have money burning a hole thru your leg again, get the Tungsols. In any event, they are better than the JJ's. (At least you don't need an EOD tech on call for the EH's and Tung-Sols
). And I WOULD highly recommend getting a MATCHED CATHODE DRAW QUAD (Jim McShane) and putting either an IBAM or IBBA(DAVE's board)in to balance and bias them equally. Then cursory checks 6 months to a year, adjust as necessary.
One NOTE! The Tung-SOLS require more Bias voltage than the EH's at any bias level.
FOR EXAMPLE:
Bias an EH to 32ma, and the bias voltage is roughly -19V
Bias a T-S to 32ma in the same amp, and the bias voltage is approx -22v to -23V
Adjustments might be needed to your board to allow the T-S to Bias that high/low. It a resistor change and it's documented on the forum.
All of the above is based on FIXED BIAS. Now we'll go to Cathode Bias.
My X-101-B has all new tubes in it with the exception of the Phase inverter tubes which are NOS Sylvania long plate 12ax7's, and a IEC branded MULLARD GZ34. OUTPUT TUBES ARE TUNG-SOL 7591's. Bias is set to FISHER spec's per the manual. I fixed or replaced a minimum of wiring when I recapped it. Due to lack of Room I used .047uf 400v IC MKP caps for the output couplers. Cathode resistors and screen stab. res. installed. NO EFB. I did add an additional shield plate in the phono input area which killed some hum. Otherwise it's bone stock. "It sounds mahvelous" (insert Billy Crystal doing Fernado Lamas here). It has less power output than the fixed bias setup but it's got more stage presense. I tried the EH's in it but they sounded somewhat 1 dimensional. Don't know if it's the tube or the amp design. But the Tung-SOL's do very well and look outstanding in this amp.
With the stock of "NOS" 7591's all over the map (pricewise, non matching, diminishing stocks,etc) both the EH and the tung-sol's are good replacements. So they average 90% of the original 7591's in power, you aren't going to tear down the barn doors with them. I would imagine, if you run them btwn 70% and 80% of max dissipation, they'll last damned near forever