EdwardHallman
New Member
Hello all! I'm a proud owner of a Sansui G-6000 Receiver. My father purchased it back in 1979 (I believe) while stationed in Okinawa, and it's aged pretty well. It's only physical defects are insignifigant: All of the bulb lights are burned out (which I actually like; it makes nighttime listening easier), and the right channel meter is broken. It plays everything really well and sounds great, especially with my old Bose 901 Active Equalizer attached to the NR Adaptor port.
Earlier today, I decided that I wanted my right channel power meter back, so I decided to swap the broken one in the right channel meter's place with the signal level meter. I never listen to the radio, and even if I did, I figured that the tuning meter would be informative enough for me to get homed in on my target station. The meters seemed to be exactly the same, and the swap went perfectly.
(A bit of background information I used to have problems with the G-6000 shutting off automatically from when the volume was too high, a feature that was built-in for a good reason. Unfortunately, my desire for loud music coupled with my overclocker's instinct forced me to open it up in an effort to disable or loosen the auto-protect. I figured that if there was a switch or a potentiometer for that, it'd be one of the six pots on the vertically-mounted board labeled "driver unit".Turns out I was wrong. Surprise, surprise. (The board was split in two, and symmetically mirrored on either side, so I only messed with the pots on the left side.) Anyway, when the pots didn't do anything beneficial as far as auto-protect goes, I just put them back to their original position (or very close to their original position, rather), and hoped for the best. None of them did anything to the sound or the stereo as far as I could tell, so I just decided to call it a failed experiment and close the thing up.
I'm faced with a new problem, though. I know it's just an insignifigant annoyance, but I'd like to fix it up if it's at all possible. Both of my channel meters work, but the left one isn't nearly as reactive as the right, and it also seems to be much "looser" than the right. It turns out that at least two of the three pots on either side of the "driver unit" board directly controlled the meters. (I'm still unsure what the third did; it's offset from the rest, and it doesn't seem to have any affect upon the meters, so I'd love to figure out what its purpose is.) Knowing that the two potentiometers controlled the meters, I figured that setting them to be exactly the same on either side would make both meters exactly the same. I desoldered the right side pots, took measurements, and resoldered them without changing their values. When I desoldered the left side's pots, however, their total value wasn't exactly what the right side's pots were; in fact, the 2.2k pot was 500 ohms less than the other. I tried setting them up proportionally, but that didn't work. After about two hours of tweaking the pots to get them to exact values (to the ohm), I just ended up resoldering them and doing it approximately. How frustrating.
So, the purpose of that unnecessarily long post was simply this: I was wondering if anyone here knew exactly how to get the meters on a Sansui G-6000 to behave a certain way. If anyone could give me some insight, I'd really appreciate it!
Earlier today, I decided that I wanted my right channel power meter back, so I decided to swap the broken one in the right channel meter's place with the signal level meter. I never listen to the radio, and even if I did, I figured that the tuning meter would be informative enough for me to get homed in on my target station. The meters seemed to be exactly the same, and the swap went perfectly.
(A bit of background information I used to have problems with the G-6000 shutting off automatically from when the volume was too high, a feature that was built-in for a good reason. Unfortunately, my desire for loud music coupled with my overclocker's instinct forced me to open it up in an effort to disable or loosen the auto-protect. I figured that if there was a switch or a potentiometer for that, it'd be one of the six pots on the vertically-mounted board labeled "driver unit".Turns out I was wrong. Surprise, surprise. (The board was split in two, and symmetically mirrored on either side, so I only messed with the pots on the left side.) Anyway, when the pots didn't do anything beneficial as far as auto-protect goes, I just put them back to their original position (or very close to their original position, rather), and hoped for the best. None of them did anything to the sound or the stereo as far as I could tell, so I just decided to call it a failed experiment and close the thing up.
I'm faced with a new problem, though. I know it's just an insignifigant annoyance, but I'd like to fix it up if it's at all possible. Both of my channel meters work, but the left one isn't nearly as reactive as the right, and it also seems to be much "looser" than the right. It turns out that at least two of the three pots on either side of the "driver unit" board directly controlled the meters. (I'm still unsure what the third did; it's offset from the rest, and it doesn't seem to have any affect upon the meters, so I'd love to figure out what its purpose is.) Knowing that the two potentiometers controlled the meters, I figured that setting them to be exactly the same on either side would make both meters exactly the same. I desoldered the right side pots, took measurements, and resoldered them without changing their values. When I desoldered the left side's pots, however, their total value wasn't exactly what the right side's pots were; in fact, the 2.2k pot was 500 ohms less than the other. I tried setting them up proportionally, but that didn't work. After about two hours of tweaking the pots to get them to exact values (to the ohm), I just ended up resoldering them and doing it approximately. How frustrating.
So, the purpose of that unnecessarily long post was simply this: I was wondering if anyone here knew exactly how to get the meters on a Sansui G-6000 to behave a certain way. If anyone could give me some insight, I'd really appreciate it!