johnjhazel
PhxJohn
I had styli(still do) for the GE VR 1000 that looked like they should work but they did not. I looked at them under just 25x magnification and I was able to see why they did not work. Multiple reasons. Worst styli ever made.
Vivid Line or Shibata
- Thread starter srs735
- Start date
I had styli(still do) for the GE VR 1000 that looked like they should work but they did not. I looked at them under just 25x magnification and I was able to see why they did not work. Multiple reasons. Worst styli ever made.
johnjhazel
PhxJohn
What was the difference between the D6800EE and D6800EEE when manufactured originally by Stanton ? Thanks !!
Yes bought directly from Jico and complained directly to Jico with no reply.
Chris
But is it better to buy one or the other from LP gear as they are separate listings. Does one or the other have a better or worse brush for example?
Chris
I think I know how it sounds & have a good basis of comparison. If I had reservations, perhaps I would look for trouble. Sorry you had a poor experience but we are running out of alternatives. Perhaps the quality has slipped in the last year or 2.
Here is a 35x pic of the Jico Shibata. Bit blurry as had to point a camera done the eyepiece of the microscope with flash off and try to hold camera still as possible with low shutter speed serious nightmare. Pic is after like 10 attempts. 200x I could not get a good pic but it was clear huge piece was missing on one side on the contact area.
Also look at how much glue is used. 35x does not show contact areas but you get the point from the pic how bad the diamond quality is..
Chris
Chris
Ok having another go with the Jico. Re set up my lights and now have 200x so spent quite a bit of time trying to determine the quality of the contact surfaces better. One side is perfect, the other has a large flaw but it is forward of the polished ares except a small ingress on the trailing edge which looked way worse at 100x. My though is to rotate a tiny amount to try to align that area out. Also the rake angle is way way out and diamond is not mounted correctly either as tip is off to the side, but this might be workable. I have already cut the ears to get tip pointing down correctly and tried to get rake angle correct but need to look again tomorrow. Setting the cart level which is what I always used to do is no way correct not even close for correct rake angle so wondering if much of the problems apart the flaw has been this..
Cart is going to need to be VERY tail up for correct rake angle from what I can see no wonder it was sibilant with cart level.
In the morning will try a degree or two rotated to move the contact surface to smooth tip and the ears are cut to rotate the stylus to point perfectly down. Will finish set up tomorrow but looking like arm will need to be very tail up. Wonder if this fixes anything? Too tired now will check tomorrow, but hope so but no sibilance is too much to hope for but fingers crossed.
Chris
Cart is going to need to be VERY tail up for correct rake angle from what I can see no wonder it was sibilant with cart level.
In the morning will try a degree or two rotated to move the contact surface to smooth tip and the ears are cut to rotate the stylus to point perfectly down. Will finish set up tomorrow but looking like arm will need to be very tail up. Wonder if this fixes anything? Too tired now will check tomorrow, but hope so but no sibilance is too much to hope for but fingers crossed.
Chris
patient_ot
Super Member
I doubt the brush fiber material is any different on the Jico Stanton vs. Jico Pickering styles. I have the Jico Pickering Shibata which I put on a Stanton 680 body. The damping effect of brush does "work" but it doesn't set on the record the same way the OEM Pickering and Stanton brushes do judging by pictures. The OEM looks to be of softer material. I tried to source an OEM Pickering brush to put on the stylus but I couldn't get anyone to let go of one for a reasonable price. It seems people are hoarding those OEM brushes and the only way to get one is to buy a cart on eBay that has the attached brush in good condition.
Really hope I can get it sounding better than it did, will have a play in a little while. That said will still get a new stylus, thinking the vivid line and thinking to get the 681 version simply if the stylus is off line cutting the ears and blue tac can get things straight? Guess there is no other advantage to either model?
Cheers
Chris
Cheers
Chris
Shure aftermarket brushes are not as soft as the OEM either. Seem to work OK but maybe not as well.
Let us know how you make out. I have a 681eee waiting for a new stylus. I was thinking vivid line myself. But I'll let you go first.
No prob will let you knowLet us know how you make out. I have a 681eee waiting for a new stylus. I was thinking vivid line myself. But I'll let you go first.
ETI_5000
Super Member
The D6800EEE (stylus for 681EEE, introduced 1974) was a nude stylus, and the moving mass as a result of the nude tip and ‘miniaturised’ (their word) cantilever was significantly less than the older D6800EE (from the 681EE, introduced 1967).
The moving mass of the 681EEE stylus was only two-thirds the mass of the 681EE’s stylus. That made the 681EEE track much better at all frequencies, with lower distortion. It also had a flatter frequency response, which was guaranteed to be ±0.5dB 10Hz – 12kHz, whereas the 681EE was only guaranteed to be ±0.5dB from 10Hz – 10kHz. That’s because the tip resonant frequency of the 681EEE was significantly higher than that of the 681EE due to the lower mass, meaning the frequency response was flatter to a higher frequency.
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johnjhazel
PhxJohn
Thank you.
Vinylmasters
Super Member
Personal observation: Shibata's can tends to be a bit 'harsh' on the higher end at times. Vivid Line's seem to 'smooth' out that roughness.
johnjhazel
PhxJohn
I am not sure, but the Vivid Lines are hyperellipticals aren't they ?
