WC-22 wood case dimensions
- Thread starter Smwilli
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TMZ2
Active Member
TMZ2, Black on Black looks good. Please post more pictures, what do you have with a silver face?
Here you go....
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dario54
Member
mark4reed
New Member
Building a case for Marantz 2230
I'm planning to build a case for my 2230. I have some 11-1/2" wide x 1" rough sawn walnut, so I'll have to plane it down to 3/4" and edge glue a piece to get the 15-1/2" depth.
I was thinking of making the inside dimensions slightly larger to get an additional 2mm clearance on each side for better ventilation. I was also thinking of planing it 2mm less than 3/4" so that the outside of the case would be the original dimensions. Any comments on this? My goal is not necessarily to make an exact reproduction of the original case - just a nice looking case.
One drawing shows a 30 degree angle for the front bevel. From photos it looks like 45 degrees. Can someone clarify this?
Any other advice from someone who has built a case. Thanks in advance.
I'm planning to build a case for my 2230. I have some 11-1/2" wide x 1" rough sawn walnut, so I'll have to plane it down to 3/4" and edge glue a piece to get the 15-1/2" depth.
I was thinking of making the inside dimensions slightly larger to get an additional 2mm clearance on each side for better ventilation. I was also thinking of planing it 2mm less than 3/4" so that the outside of the case would be the original dimensions. Any comments on this? My goal is not necessarily to make an exact reproduction of the original case - just a nice looking case.
One drawing shows a 30 degree angle for the front bevel. From photos it looks like 45 degrees. Can someone clarify this?
Any other advice from someone who has built a case. Thanks in advance.
I have an original here that I made measurement off of. When I measured the bevel angle it was 30 degrees. Would a 45 degree bevel look any different? I don't know, but the one's i've made are 30 degrees.
I also think that using 3/4 material is too thick and will mess up the bevel measurements. Looking back, I screwed up making the measurement from the outside. Using 3/4, the measurements will all have to be modified to maintain proper inside dimensions.
I've always used 1/2 MDF. Problem with solid stock is that it's not as stable as MDF, especiall being exposed to the heat of electronics. Here is a thread where I documented my build of a WC-22 and how I got my measurements: http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=302319
I also think that using 3/4 material is too thick and will mess up the bevel measurements. Looking back, I screwed up making the measurement from the outside. Using 3/4, the measurements will all have to be modified to maintain proper inside dimensions.
I've always used 1/2 MDF. Problem with solid stock is that it's not as stable as MDF, especiall being exposed to the heat of electronics. Here is a thread where I documented my build of a WC-22 and how I got my measurements: http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=302319
I recall that the originals are about 3/4" thick, veneered particle baord -so needlessly heavy. I'd recommend 1/2 plywood with 3/4 by 3/4 font edge banding. Solid front edge banding is what the original used and easier than trying to veneer chamfered front. I believe that 1/2 plywood is thinner than original construction but makes for a lighter case. You need to compensate for this difference because the inside dimensions are the critical one. It is cheaper to build case using regular cabinet plywood and then veneer if you have that skill. Also you'll get nicer veneer than you will on the plywood. If you're not trying to duplicate the chamfer on the original Marantz case, and just want a flush cut, then walnut edge banding tape is easy to apply with a hot iron.
I've been able to find perforated sheet aluminum at Hobby Lobby. It is similar pattern to the original. Easy to work with and can be painted if you can't find the color you desire. I build these with the metal grill completely surrounded by wood to avoid the necessity for the bend across the back, which adds stiffness.
I've built several and would be happy to help out if you get into it and have questions. Just PM me and we can arrange a time to speak.
I've been able to find perforated sheet aluminum at Hobby Lobby. It is similar pattern to the original. Easy to work with and can be painted if you can't find the color you desire. I build these with the metal grill completely surrounded by wood to avoid the necessity for the bend across the back, which adds stiffness.
I've built several and would be happy to help out if you get into it and have questions. Just PM me and we can arrange a time to speak.
Hello, I was wondering if you found the wc-10 dimensions, if so, I would love to get them!!
Thx Fab
Here are the dimensions for 22xx cases. The first page is the front profile. The diagrams may not be self-explanatory so let me know if you have questions.
Some photos of the finished results. Note the first case uses a different profile than the typical Marantz.
Some photos of the finished results. Note the first case uses a different profile than the typical Marantz.
Steven Tate
CEO Flat Forehead Soc.
You should check this thread. It has detailed dimensions in both inches and millimeters.
http://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/marantz-wc-22-construction-plans.728593/
http://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/marantz-wc-22-construction-plans.728593/
bluehills5
Active Member
I just got a 2230 with a beat up WC-22 case that is missing the screen so I will build one. After searching online, it seems Perforated, 16 Gauge Plain Steel (0.0625” or 1.6mm) , 1/8" (0.125 or 3.175mm) Round on 3/16" (0.1875” or 4.76mm) Staggered hole steel is the closest match to the original. But does anyone have the exact measurements of the complete screen? Eg how long is the 90 deg bend and how much material is inside the groove? And as for black paint, is it matt, semi gloss or gloss?
Steven Tate
CEO Flat Forehead Soc.
Hard to measure these, and there is more than one version of the WC-22. But my screen is 17" long at the back and 9-1/4" front to back. 3/4" behind the front edge, the screen is 16-1/8" wide. It goes 1/8 to 3/16" into the groove. The bend at the back is two rows of holes, or about 5/16". Double check these measurements to make sure they fit your case. I would call the paint semi-gloss.
Steve
Steve
bluehills5
Active Member
That petty much matches my case dimensions so it looks about right. Now to order some metal...
MBuras
Restoration is an Addiction
I wasn't sure about the paint sheen when I replaced mine so I went with a satin black spray. I'm pretty happy with the way it turned out.
bluehills5
Active Member
I ended up making a screen. See here for my write-up.
http://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/marantz-wc-22-metal-screen-diy.743301/
http://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/marantz-wc-22-metal-screen-diy.743301/
My OEM 2285B case is actually plywood with walnut veneer. It is built much like the 30/40s cases are. The case has several gussets glued internally. I'll be putting new walnut veneer on it this week assuming the veneer arrives as promised
Steven Tate
CEO Flat Forehead Soc.
Do you ever use Bondo on the corners if the plywood is chewed up? I've had good success getting nice sharp corners back and it seems to really bond well to the wood.
