Wharfedale W60 crossover inductor soldering

ggizzy

EMI extraordinaire
Hello-

I have a pair of these speakers which are in need of a bit of crossover restore. I had replaced the L-pads in both as they were beyond redemption. Both speakers were working but I had wanted to tweak the resistor values. While inside the cab, I thought that inductor looked like it might have had a cold solder joint. I tried to reflow the joint at 400, 450, and finally 500 briefly but to no avail. I am unable to get the lead from the inductor to solder to the tag on the outside!

I have a pencil tip on my Weller station now but I have several other tips available. Is that the trick for this thick inductor wire? Even higher temp? was afraid of damaging the contact even though I have the heat clips on ther other side...any help is appreciated!
 
For some years the Wharfedale company supplied aluminium wire inductors in their crossover networks. There are specially formulated solders suitable to rework the joints but it may pay to have a unused spare solder tip set aside to use exclusively for aluminium soldering. Wharfedale used an ultrasonic tinning solder pot for this function. A remade aluminium solder joint should be sealed from the air to prevent oxidation.
 
Thanks for the response. I have a few spare tips that I could use. Could you tell me what type of solder I will need to use and if I should use flux with it? Also is it something I could order from parts express or the like? Many thanks,

Chris
 
There are a number of products that can be obtained via Amazon or eBay. The main candidates are, the Harris Al Solder 500 kit , Kappaloy 9 al solder and Uniweld P4KD9 kit. I have used Multicore Alu-Sol 45DH but a reel of this speciality solder is on the expensive side for your repair project. The products mentioned either incorporate a core of flux within the solder or are supplied with a seperate paste flux.
 
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Thank you, they are on the expensive side but I likely don’t have a choice here... I will be ordering one of the above. Thanks for your time and help!
 
W60 crossovers show up on frequently on eBay. Right now there is a set for a W60D, and a W60E

W60D
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F41E275B-1FC4-4E19-8A4B-5DC78509EB2D.jpegI hate to necro this thread from several months ago but I only recently have had the time to go over these speakers.

I bought the Harris Alsolder 500 kit, which includes the solder and flux I need for the repair. I’ve uploaded an image of the joint on the inductor.

Do I need to cleanup with fine sandpaper/Emory the joint tabs? Denatured after?

I then flux and immediately solder? I apologize but I only see health warnings all over the bottle and no directions for use.

Finally, do I need to use a higher temperature on my soldering station? I’m assuming I don’t need to bring ultrasonic into it? :eek:

I appreciate any further guidance you could give. I’d hate to spend $50 on a new inductor.

Regards,

Chris
 
I would not mess with this crossover/inductor. There are several W60 crossovers available a pair of W60D's, and a 60E. Sent you a PM.
 
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The crossover for the D/E models is not the same as mine. I appreciate the links but my speakers are the original, 2-way with a 50 ohm level control (l-pad and not made anymore) along with a 12uf cap. I’ve replaced the cap already.

The only thing on flea bay close to what I need is a full crossover for $50 + $10 shipping.

Since I have the soldering kit already I’d like to give it a go. The speakers aren’t anything too special and I got them for practically free! I will search around some more for videos or info on soldering aluminum wire inductors.

I have a lot of soldering experience so I’m not daunted by the task, just inexperienced.
 
Clean the aluminium wire and the tag with a wire brush . The aluminium wire should be crimped firmly to the tag to prevent movement. Apply the flux to the joint. Use a clean soldering tip (untinned) with your soldering iron at 480 d(C) or higher. Hold the solder onto the joint and place the iron tip upon the solder. The heat transfer will gradually raise the solder wire temperature to the point were it will suddenly change to a liquid state. When this happens keep the iron tip in contact with the joint and keep pushing the solder wire into the puddle area until you can see that the solder has flowed onto the aluminium coil wire.
 
I appreciate the reply and detailed instructions!

Unfortunately my Weller WES51 only goes to 850 d (F). The equivalent Fahrenheit for the solder is 896 d (F). :(

I don't really want to buy a higher temp soldering iron so I suppose my only bet will be to try to just find another inductor. I'm assuming the solder on the adjacent tab (going to woofer) is 60/40? I had kept the wire ends to resolder on this pair, but the xover on the one up on fleabay looks cut at the tab. And it's still over $60! Maybe I can cut a deal just for the inductor...

I'll keep the Harris kit for other project stuff..I know I could get up to that temp pretty easy with a torch but it might fry the other parts of the inductor! An expensive lesson more than anything hah. Thanks for the help-
 
Your Weller should do the job. It is only an issue of being able to transfer enough heat to build up to a temperature that allows the solder to melt. The Wharfedale inductor acts as a heat sink and this requires a soldering iron to be capable of supplying enough heat energy ( high wattage rating ) to do the job. The process is slower than using tin/lead solders.
 
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