Nice fisher thrift score and welcome to Audiokarma from a fellow lineman 
Where to start with thrift store 800c?
- Thread starter Linehand
- Start date
The brights are probably still there because it's been sitting face-up for the past 50+ years. Be ready to keep track of them and glue them back into place when they start falling off.
Linehand
Active Member
I checked with a few locals on a quad set of 7591's hoping to find some mismatched slackers, best I could do was that Mcintosh set. Anyone aware of possible sources in So Cal?
If I can't find any, I'm thinking I'll buy a new set and ease into them with a variac
I'll get some pictures of the wired underside this evening.
Linehand
Active Member
Nice fisher thrift score and welcome to Audiokarma from a fellow lineman
Thanks Kirk
Greetings from Local 47, have a safe week
Local 647 here and have a safe week too.
If you use a variac with a new set you should be fine.
Linehand
Active Member
On second look under the cover, the orange lead coming off the main trans (into rectifier) looks like it got pretty hot.
Seems like its molded/ melted itself around the power switch/volume pot wire loom tube. I'm sure gravity helped.
Don't see any breaks in insulation. Other than dust, everything looks sorted.
Seems like its molded/ melted itself around the power switch/volume pot wire loom tube. I'm sure gravity helped.
Don't see any breaks in insulation. Other than dust, everything looks sorted.
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As far as I can see, you have a virgin unit there. For restoration purposes that is a good thing because you will not have to worry about unraveling mistakes made in prior restoration attempts. That hot transformer lead raises a question however. It might not be anything.....or something; you will not know that until you begin surgery.
Does your AC on/off control make a "click"?
Does your AC on/off control make a "click"?
If you put the 800 back in the cabinet, make sure the bottom plate it attaches to has some ventilation holes (lots of them). This is the main cause of the Orange wire insulation doing a partial meltdown. The 800c owners manual has a cutout diagram for the bottom plate of a cabinet. Follow those directions and use some window screening (NYLON!!!!) and make it larger (the screening) than the chassis, as we DO NOT want the attaching staples inside the chassis, even with the bottom chassis plate installed.
One more thing. Make absolutely sure you get a manual that your serial number fits into. FISHER did their Serials in lots of 10000 and their manuals reflected this. So if your 800c has a Serial of 35666 you'd use the 30001 to 39999 or 30001 and up. If those manuals do not exist, use the next higher manual.
Both Manuals are available here at the FISHERCONSOLES site manuals page. http://www.fisherconsoles.com/non console manuals/fisher 800c om.pdf
You might want to look thru the whole site to see the consoles made from 1951 to 1969. The majority are from 1957 to 1967 and all are updated or incorporated as needed or a new unit surfaces.
Direct links:
Owners http://www.fisherconsoles.com/non console manuals/fisher 800c om.pdf
SERVICE:
10001-19999 1963 Executive Console. http://www.fisherconsoles.com/executive VIII service manual page.html
20001-29999 1964 Executive and 1963 standalone Units http://www.fisherconsoles.com/service manuals/FISHER EXECUTIVE IX 960 SM.pdf
30001-39999 Late 63/Early 64 Standalone http://www.fisherconsoles.com/non console manuals/fisher 800c 30001 39999 sm.pdf
30001-49999 http://www.fisherconsoles.com/non console manuals/fisher 800c 30001 49999 sm.pdf
One more thing. Make absolutely sure you get a manual that your serial number fits into. FISHER did their Serials in lots of 10000 and their manuals reflected this. So if your 800c has a Serial of 35666 you'd use the 30001 to 39999 or 30001 and up. If those manuals do not exist, use the next higher manual.
Both Manuals are available here at the FISHERCONSOLES site manuals page. http://www.fisherconsoles.com/non console manuals/fisher 800c om.pdf
You might want to look thru the whole site to see the consoles made from 1951 to 1969. The majority are from 1957 to 1967 and all are updated or incorporated as needed or a new unit surfaces.
Direct links:
Owners http://www.fisherconsoles.com/non console manuals/fisher 800c om.pdf
SERVICE:
10001-19999 1963 Executive Console. http://www.fisherconsoles.com/executive VIII service manual page.html
20001-29999 1964 Executive and 1963 standalone Units http://www.fisherconsoles.com/service manuals/FISHER EXECUTIVE IX 960 SM.pdf
30001-39999 Late 63/Early 64 Standalone http://www.fisherconsoles.com/non console manuals/fisher 800c 30001 39999 sm.pdf
30001-49999 http://www.fisherconsoles.com/non console manuals/fisher 800c 30001 49999 sm.pdf
Linehand
Active Member
Yes, AC switch sounds/feels pretty good. I've been combing classifieds for tubes last few days but not coming up with anything local. I'm going to order some EH tubes tonight.
Linehand
Active Member
Thanks for the tips Larry. I spent some little time looking through all the old consoles on that site hoping to find one like mine. Didn't see the manuals though. I'll be doing more homework tonight
If you feel that the insulation is marginal, find like colored Heatshrink tubing and install a couple layers over the whole lead.
That your starting point is a working unit is excellent: congrats!
Linehand
Active Member
So better late than never, we recently added a little one to the family which has given me and the old Fisher some much needed downtime. I've been running her bone stock on a variac with some old Mac branded sylvanias, and though she sounded good, I could set a pan on top and cook an egg. I installed the metalbone restore kit which took care of the power supply and all the old caps. This was a great way to get my feet wet, the color pictures and instructions included in the binder were worth the price alone. I went with sonicaps, not sure how the orange drops would sound...
Next came the the bias supply kit and matched EH 7591's from Jim McShane. Jim's the man! Prompt, detailed, thorough responses, advice and instruction. I can imagine how old it gets answering the same questions over and over- Jim did not come across this way.
I could tell this amp was magic before the restore and I was very concerned I might lose some of that flavor. If I have, I haven't noticed, as I'm too distracted with these images dancing back and forth between my speakers. The detail, snap, and pace combined with no strain or harsh edge (Spendor bc 2 speakers at medium listening in a smaller room) is amazing.
Thanks to everyone for the restore advice-- it was exactly what this Fisher needed. To see how well this stereo is built, to hear how great it sounds after all these years, the American craftsmanship, just reminds me not to get caught up with all the static in the world. With all the wisdom here on AK theres no reason any of these should ever die.
Anyway here's a few pics for anyone doing a similar restore with these two kits
Paul
Next came the the bias supply kit and matched EH 7591's from Jim McShane. Jim's the man! Prompt, detailed, thorough responses, advice and instruction. I can imagine how old it gets answering the same questions over and over- Jim did not come across this way.
I could tell this amp was magic before the restore and I was very concerned I might lose some of that flavor. If I have, I haven't noticed, as I'm too distracted with these images dancing back and forth between my speakers. The detail, snap, and pace combined with no strain or harsh edge (Spendor bc 2 speakers at medium listening in a smaller room) is amazing.
Thanks to everyone for the restore advice-- it was exactly what this Fisher needed. To see how well this stereo is built, to hear how great it sounds after all these years, the American craftsmanship, just reminds me not to get caught up with all the static in the world. With all the wisdom here on AK theres no reason any of these should ever die.
Anyway here's a few pics for anyone doing a similar restore with these two kits
Paul
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Congrats on your restoration. And very nicely done!!!!
And a double congratulations to the other addition to your family. Enjoying them both at the same time is priceless!!!
And a double congratulations to the other addition to your family. Enjoying them both at the same time is priceless!!!
Linehand
Active Member
Thanks guys-
This fisher has been the secret weapon putting him to sleep last few nights...
1. Would you guys recommend phase inverter adjustment after power supply rebuild and output tube replacement? Theres a little bit of distortion in the highs, could be my source will have to test further. I'm going to measure here shortly just to see where its at.
2. Theres a very slight low level hum (Aux input, no signal, volume 0 and increases with volume). Its not too distracting, just noticeable ear close to speaker. I pulled it off the variac to be sure it wasn't that- I'm going to tighten basket on main transformer to see if theres any change and check connections at signal inputs. Any other suggestions? How much hum is too much?
3. My wall voltage varies 118-126v (usually at 122-123v), I have a thermistor installed which drops input voltage 5v or so figure 117-118v at the power supply.
Jim McShane instructs -23v to -25.2v on pin 4 of V17 and V19 as an indicator of proper circuit voltage and I do get 6.35v AC on the signal strength lamp on top, but power transformer seems to get pretty hot at this voltage.
Bias on EH output tubes is 36-37mA.
I can hold my hand on it for 6-7 sec, but my hands are pretty rough and not too sensitive. If I drop the input voltage with the variac the transformer cools down but my circuit voltages are off.
What is the most critical variable here? Is there any problem running a fan directly onto the power transformer or tubes? Will tube temp decrease impact bias settings greatly?
Sorry for all the questions at once- thanks for your input!
Paul
You've done well so far! As far as cooling goes, your nice 7591s will thank you. A couple of muffin fans wired in series (for less noise but same airflow) aimed right at the quad of tubes should do the trick. You can either use 120V fans, again in series, or a couple of junk computer fans running off a wall wart. Check the computer fan voltages since a lot of them are 5V...two in series running off a 6V wall wart should be OK.
