which TT? Sansui SR-212 vs Sansui SR-2050E

Discussion in 'Turntables' started by Inspector_Sw, May 9, 2011.

  1. Inspector_Sw

    Inspector_Sw Audiophilistine

    Messages:
    49
    Location:
    NSW Australia
    I have the option of getting either a sansui SR-2050E or SR-212 in the upcoming few days - both in very good, cosmetically clean, fully functioning condition. Does anybody have any strong feelings for one over the other? I understand that the 212 was an entry-level, but quite decent turntable in the 70s, but can't quite find where the 2050E sits in the hierarchy, and would love to know if one TT blatantly outperforms the other.

    So far I like that the 212 has RCA outs on the back allowing me to easily use good quality/differing length cables. FWIW I have shure M91ED and M97XE carts which will be seeing duty on whichever table I end up with - unless anybody has serious reservations about the those carts and these TTs?

    Pics below of both TTs, 2050 and 212 respectively. Sorry for the poor quality but thought a visual cue might help if someone recognises them.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     

    Attached Files:

     

    Please register to disable this ad.

  2. danj

    danj modern primitive

    Messages:
    5,298
    Location:
    Somewhere in Oregon
    I can't give specifics but I have owned both models and, if both were in equally good condition, I would pick the 2050 every time. It's a more substantial machine. That said, you can't go wrong with either one.

    I currently own a FR-3060, a model up from the 2050. They are basically the same except for the degree of automation.

    The 212 is similar to the Pioneer PL-12D and is a nice high quality entry level machine.
     
    Last edited: May 11, 2011
  3. Inspector_Sw

    Inspector_Sw Audiophilistine

    Messages:
    49
    Location:
    NSW Australia
    Thanks danj! Do you know if the 2050 would be alright/able to be switched to run on 240v AC outlet voltage? The 2050 I'm looking at has come from the US. I was thinking I'd just plug it through the unswitched power outlet on the back of my KA-8006 amp, but then realised that with the amp itself switched to 240v, it would be supplying same through its outlets. If I know I can run the 2050 on 240v, I'll jump on it.

    EDIT: Just did a bit more research and found out the 2050 will accept 240v.
    ANOTHER EDIT: Pulled the trigger on the 2050
     
    Last edited: May 10, 2011
  4. boreas

    boreas "If it sounds good, it IS good." E.K.E.

    Messages:
    15,695
    Location:
    Sonoma County, CA
    I don't have any experience with the SR-212 so I can't offer a comparison but I've had an SR-1050. That's the manual version of the 2050. It was a lovely turntable and sounded terrific. It also has a real walnut veneer base which the SR-212 doesn't.

    I think I'd go with the 2050, assuming it could be adapted for 240 VAC/50Hz.

    John
     
  5. ETI_5000

    ETI_5000 Super Member

    Messages:
    2,886
    Location:
    Hobart, Tasmania, Australia
    The SR-2050E is a better turntable, I think. The main difference is the weight of them – 11.8kg for the SR-2050E versus 6.7kg for the SR-212, indicates that the 2050 will have the better performance. Information on both models is available here http://www.classicsansui.net/Turntables.htm , and there’s a manual for the 2050 here http://www.vinylengine.com/library/sansui/sr-2050.shtml .

    It looks as though it has a voltage and frequency selector switch, so that it can be changed from 115V 60Hz operation (USA) to 230V 50Hz for Australia, which is handy. By the way, Australia is no longer 240V – it changed a few years ago to 230V, together with NZ and UK, and the majority of Europe went from 220V to 230V. Here’s a map showing voltages around the world http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikiped...rte_der_Netzspannungen_und_Netzfrequenzen.svg . That was settled on in 1983, and Australia put in place a plan to change over the next 20 years to the newly decided European standard 230V. 240V is still within the specified limits though.

    Just make sure the seller packages the turntable up properly so it arrives safely – get them to remove the platter, counterweight, and headshell, and package them up separately (underneath the turntable is OK), and tie the tonearm to the rest so it can’t move around, and put the well padded counterweight and headshell/cartridge in a small box in the large turntable box. There’s good info on how to do it in this thread http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=342731 , and the late Joel the Turntable Guy, a specialist who repaired turntables, gave some handy info at this archived website http://replay.web.archive.org/20080730051813/http://www.theturntablefactory.com/packing.html .
     
    Last edited: May 10, 2011
  6. boreas

    boreas "If it sounds good, it IS good." E.K.E.

    Messages:
    15,695
    Location:
    Sonoma County, CA
    I've never been faced with the necessity of converting/switching a turntable from one voltage to another but I've always thought that, with a synchronous motor like that on the SR-2050, it was necessary to change capstans from one appropriate for 60Hz to one for 50Hz or vice versa. A reading of the owner's manual for the 2050 seems to confirm this since it mentions that the turntable is supplied with the alternate capstan in the event that the owner emigrates to another country.

    "This turntable's power source frequency has been properly adjusted to your area prior to shipment. If you should move to a country or an area where electric cycles change from 50 to 60 or vice versa, an adjustment in the turntable's speed is necessary. This is easily accomplished by changing the capstan. An accessory capstan is provided."

    John
     

     

    Please register to disable this ad.

  7. ETI_5000

    ETI_5000 Super Member

    Messages:
    2,886
    Location:
    Hobart, Tasmania, Australia
    Ah, yes - didn't see that bit when I was looking at the voltage change section.:bash: Inspector_Sw might be in trouble if the other capstan is missing, although there is one for the SR-1050 (which may be suitable) at this Netherlands Sansui parts shop here http://www.sansui-parts-shop.com/index.php?page=details&prod=3323&cat=553&group=73 .
     
  8. bluesky

    bluesky Addicted Member

    Messages:
    7,737
    Those are 'classic' lookin TTs! I love em.

    Best one? SR-838. Why mess around? Get the TOTL.
     
  9. boreas

    boreas "If it sounds good, it IS good." E.K.E.

    Messages:
    15,695
    Location:
    Sonoma County, CA
    That will do the trick, assuming it's the 50Hz type. Europe is 50Hz so it probably is. Glad you found that. Good on ya, cobber! ;)

    The SR-1050 is the manual version of the SR-2050. The letters at the end of the model number aren't pertinent here. They refer to the absence/presence of a cartridge/plinth.

    C = cartridge & plinth
    E = "economy", plinth but no cartridge
    K = neither plinth nor cartridge.

    John
     
    Last edited: May 10, 2011
  10. Inspector_Sw

    Inspector_Sw Audiophilistine

    Messages:
    49
    Location:
    NSW Australia
    Wow thanks guys, incredible information from well-informed members. We'll see how it all goes. I've learnt a lot in this forum, including the outlet voltage in my own country! The things we sometimes don't take the time to know.. I'll post here on how it all goes. :)
     
  11. Inspector_Sw

    Inspector_Sw Audiophilistine

    Messages:
    49
    Location:
    NSW Australia
    The 2050 turned up a couple of weeks ago, very well packaged and completely undamaged. Looked it over to see if there was an alternate 50Hz capstan supplied - and nothing. This is where I owe you a debt of gratitude, ETI_5000! I ordered that 1050 spindle from the Netherlands, which turned up a few days ago. (In the meantime I fitted a Shure N97xE cart) It was brand new, thicker than the original 60Hz spindle, which I thought could only mean it was the 50Hz. Fitted it, strobed it, running spot on for 33 and 45rpm! So there we go, it was the 50Hz.

    The only minor thing I'd like to fix is the auto-stop - which works fine but the mechanism is no longer damped as it should be - when it goes to lift the arm at the end of the record, instead of gently raising it, it punches it hard and bounces the arm :eek:

    It's not too big a worry as I'm fine with playing using it switched to manual. All the same, anyone got any ideas what I can do about it?

    Thanks everyone for all the helpful info so far, I am muchly grateful.

    A couple of pics below of it playing an old Marlena Shaw LP - The Spice of Life. Sounds excellent! It's also played a Nancy Sinatra LP, the Breeders and the Pixies so far today. Can't stop putting records on..

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     

     

    Please register to disable this ad.

  12. boreas

    boreas "If it sounds good, it IS good." E.K.E.

    Messages:
    15,695
    Location:
    Sonoma County, CA
    That really is a beauty! Congratulations and, yes, those turntables really do sound wonderfully clear and musical.

    I wish I could help with the auto-lift but the SR-1050 (that I now miss even more) was manual. I'd try taking the bottom panel off and putting the turntable between two stools and then watching the mechanism. You might spot the problem that way.

    Enjoy!

    John
     
  13. Ydog

    Ydog New Member

    Messages:
    4
    I also have a Sansui 2050 turntable and the auto lift punches the arm up. Anyone have suggestions for how to fix this? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
     

Share This Page