Who is educated in vintage Magnavox CD players?

Discussion in 'Digital Sources' started by Oldskool88, Jun 4, 2017.

  1. Oldskool88

    Oldskool88 Member

    Messages:
    82
    Location:
    East Moline, IL
    I just recently picked up these two players (a week apart oddly enough). One is the FD-1051 and the other is the FD2041-BK02. I don't know a ton about them and only bought them since they were a total of $5 between them. Thinking they wouldnt be worth a whole lot other than parts (already have CDB-650 that I love) and a remote, I decided to pick them up. To my surprise, the 2041 (after sitting in a dirty garage on it's edge for who knows how long) works well other than the ejector tray being sticky. The 1051 works well too, but has the same ejecting issue. So my questions are,
    1) What can I do to the ejector mechanism to work smooth again? It normally will work if I press the eject button, lift the tray a little, and give it a little nudge.
    2) Both came without a power cord (I tested them with my power cord from my CDB-650) so does anyone know the voltage/amperage rating? Or what rating will work with these? The connector is universal, so I'm sure I can pick one up at a goodwill if I knew what rating to look for.
     

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  2. guiller

    guiller Toscaninichus Australis

    Messages:
    20,271
    Location:
    Buenos Aires (Argentina)
    The FD-1051 looks identical to Philips CD-350. Keep it! Regarding the drawer difficulty, look for a rubber belt or similar transmission mechanism and evaluate its status. Probably you would have to replace it.
     
  3. Putterman

    Putterman Super Member

    Messages:
    1,175
    The cord is fairly universal. Some Panasonics use a similar cord. There are no electrical ratings needed. You might even find an electric shaver cord works. The 1051 may have a digital output allowing you to connect it to a more modern D/A converter, e.g. a home theater receiver. You may like this better or not.:idea:
     
  4. 62vauxhall

    62vauxhall Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    964
    Just draw a cross section of the player's AC socket and cruise some thrift stores. There are a few different ones and usually not cross compatible. Unless one gets to carving with a razor blade or utility knife. Been there, done that.

    Someone mentioned a CD-350. Found one of those last year in a thrift for $2. No cord and that store had none unless I stole one from something else. Another thrift down the street had a box of cords and I found what I needed. Funnily, the cord was also $2. Had to pay as much for the cord ad I did the player - outrageous!

    And....I should have kept that player, it was silver. You can never find a silver when you want one.
     
  5. dodog

    dodog Addicted Member

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  6. CT Jim

    CT Jim AK Subscriber Subscriber

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    I recently picked up a CDB 486 w/remote, needs some cleaning and the cartridge doesn't eject, so a belt somewhere isn't working. This unit is Belgium made! Another project.....

    But what I did find out was Philips made many of the Magnavox CD players, at least during this time period. The Philips model CDC 486 is the same unit. So when looking for service/instructions info, check for the Philips model if you can't find the Maggie info.
     
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  7. Bob

    Bob AK Subscriber Subscriber

    Messages:
    915
    Location:
    West coast
    any cord will do - CDPs use so little power. take a picture of the back where the power
    cord terminates and put an inch scale and post.

    clean the rails, and use one drop of oil on a Qtip, and re-lube. do not dump one quart of
    10w-30 even if it's Mobil one. degrease the loading mechanisms if they act up.
     
  8. Oldskool88

    Oldskool88 Member

    Messages:
    82
    Location:
    East Moline, IL
    Is there a particular type of oil I should be using?
     
  9. Bob

    Bob AK Subscriber Subscriber

    Messages:
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    Location:
    West coast
    single drop of any motor oil on a qtip (rotate the qtip to keep the threads compacted).
    no WD40. no white/black/red/pink grease. if, after it's applied, it drips, then it's too much
    and start all over.
     
  10. ferninando

    ferninando AK Subscriber Subscriber

    Messages:
    12,480
    Location:
    San Jose Ca.
    recently got a sony cdp with tray sticking not opening.
    tray motor drives 2 belts. both need replacing. no more elasticity
    so no grip to the pullys.
    found the on ebay.
    just give make and model # belts.
     
  11. Oldskool88

    Oldskool88 Member

    Messages:
    82
    Location:
    East Moline, IL
    Ok, thanks. I'll report back when I get time to work on them.
     
  12. ferninando

    ferninando AK Subscriber Subscriber

    Messages:
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    Location:
    San Jose Ca.
    i am learning meor and more about phil and mag cdps.
    philips made/makes most magnavox so they are likely the same in many ways.
    some models are hard to find and others not so much.
    i am searching for the right one for me.
     
  13. SoCal Sam

    SoCal Sam Lunatic Member

    Messages:
    16,886
    Far from an expert but I am a fan of the Philips/Magnavox CDB-650. CDM 2 transport is virtually skip proof, as a test I tapped on the top like a drum and it would track and track. Favorite of modders like Mod Squad and California Audio Labs. Only let down is BPC construction, transport itself is solid.
     
  14. Oldskool88

    Oldskool88 Member

    Messages:
    82
    Location:
    East Moline, IL
    IMG_0491.JPG This is the inside of the 2041. I tried oiling what I'd consider to be the rails, but I can still not get it to eject under its own power. It's the initial movement of getting over the hump that it can't do by itself. The tray will return with no issues, so that's a good thing. Is there something else I can try?
    IMG_0490.JPG IMG_0488.JPG
     
    Last edited: Jul 16, 2017
  15. jdurbin1

    jdurbin1 Tandberg enthusiast Subscriber

    Messages:
    8,382
    Location:
    San Diego
    New belt is normally the solution. The old belts start to slip and don't have quite enough traction to drive the gearing to push the drawer forwards against the door so it opens.

    John
     
  16. Oldskool88

    Oldskool88 Member

    Messages:
    82
    Location:
    East Moline, IL
    I had a feeling that could be the issue. Is there a trick to replacing it without tearing it all apart or does the whole mechanism need to be pulled out? It looks like it's in a pretty tight spot
     
  17. jdurbin1

    jdurbin1 Tandberg enthusiast Subscriber

    Messages:
    8,382
    Location:
    San Diego
    You'd normally remove the whole transport if you can't get to where the belt installs on the left side, between the transport and the side of the unit. It's easier with the transport out in the open, should be able to see & access the belt. I haven't done that job on a 2041 but those Philips transports are all similar, pretty simply job. Might do a quick search and see if someone hasn't posted that job somewhere as a how-to.

    P.S. it's not unusual for some of those blue Philips caps to start fading with age... if you find you have tracking issues, consider replacing those before you look into other causes.

    John
     

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