wire wrapping tool

i fully realize that the unwrapped cant be re-wrapped and it is only feasible if enough slack remains. if a wire isnt long enough why cant solid conductor hookup wire be used in its place?
Wire for wrapped connections is specific to wrapping: materials, hardness, flexibility, tolerance to tension, etc. Again, while you can make a decent mechanical connection via wrapping, you cannot make a gas-tight one unless the proper tools, wire, and techniques are used.

RE: gun vs. manual...I have a couple of guns, but always use manual tools. One develops a feel. For instance, if a wrap snaps, you won't know it with a gun. Guns are a bit cumbersome, especially in tight places. A good manual tool gives one the tactile feedback to ensure a good connection, and the kind of control required to get flawless connections. I have been challenged by gun toters, for speed and accuracy...manual wins.

Also, for similar reasons, one does not reuse a disconnected punch-down connection (insulation displacement). A fresh section or wire is required. Pioneer did not use this kind of connection but other manufacturers may have.

My input can easily be ignored. I saw what appeared to be an informational deficit. I spoke up. I have restored countless pieces of vintage Pioneer gear of all types. I have never resorted to wire wrapping of any kind. I have repaired problems caused by folks that have. As always, its your gear. You may do with it as you wish.

Enjoy,
Rich P
 
I just posted before you, I see, what I SHOULD have done, practice the hand wrap....
;)
To be frank, I miss those days of creating cool new things before the factory could even think about preparing to do so. I was known to have software production ready before the factory was ready to produce me a prototype printed version. I built the factory test equipment using the same skills.

If you develop procedures, habits and skills, you don't have to be overly focused on what you are doing (gets tiring) to get superb results. For example, I was able to listen through the entire bible (multi-voice, dramatized and sound effects) so many times I can't put a number on them, while wrapping up some serious hardware.

These days, with lead spacing being so small, and clock speeds so high, wire wrap has become a less viable solution to prototyping. Printed versions are much easier and faster than the old days. Now one needs to become good with board layout software. For my audio and stage lighting projects, wrapping still does the trick.

Enjoy,
Rich P
 
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Rich, where do you source the correct wire for wrapping?

DD
I have a large stockpile, so I have not bought any in a while, but it seems you will have no trouble getting it here: https://www.digikey.com/products/en/cables-wires/wire-wrap/470?k=&pkeyword=&pv7=29&pv7=241&FV=ffe001d6,1f140000&mnonly=0&ColumnSort=0&page=1&quantity=0&ptm=0&fid=0&pageSize=25

Like the tools, the wire is not cheap. it is made of zero-oxygen copper and is plated with silver, hence specific materials. The pin corner to pin corner tension is very high. The wire has to be able to tolerate such. It also has to be able to handle the bend radii around pin corners. The cost isn't too bad, considering that the connections are good for over 30 years. I have gear in the field, still functioning, that I wrapped up in the mid 80s (test equipment for elevator, factory automation, and industrial A/C chiller components).

Take a look at the wire-wrap section of this catalogue for some pertinent info and tools: https://www.jonard.com/~/media/Files/Catalogs/Jonard Tools Catalog 114.ashx

The wire used in manufacturing Pioneer gear was custom specified, cut, and prep'd for use in specific locations in specific gear. As such, replacement wire for Pioneer equipment is made of unobtainium.

Enjoy,
Rich P
 
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well once again ive learned some things. i do thank you all. it was not my intent to remove boards wholesale, but to be able to repair a broken connection if feasible the factory way if required. i guess when i do another mouser order ill add the tool spec'ed by zeb and the CORRECT wire (at least the most correct) to the list. ive got several old but repairable boards and one piece of junk i can practice on. i DO appreciate all what you have taken the time to write about here on this subject.
 
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The hand tool does seem on the expensive side but it is a machined tool and has several pieces to it.
A related note:
A retired gentleman gave me this set of tools. He said anyone who knew what they were, deserved them.
He was retired from AT&T.
Found at a community yard sale.

View attachment 991035
That silver pistol is an older wire wrap gun. All metal and solid. later on, they came in plastic and didn't function as well. That yellow tool is a wire unwrapper.
 
Regrettably the yellow unwrap tool has a broken end and can no longer unwrap. I found out the unwrap tools are fragile but this one was broken before I got it.
The metal OK manual wrapper is smooth and works well. Lucky it was given to me, I love that stuff unlike my kids who tease me about them.
 
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it would appear that silver plated,solid conductor,20ga wire is UNOBTAINIUM. why is silver plating so important? whats the effect of tinning the post and the wire and wrapping it? inquiring minds demand to know!
 
Any good solid core will work and last. I tin the stranded before wrapping. Pioneer does it in places. Like the lamp leads and transformer leads. Then they heat the wrap with a quick iron touch to the top of the post. At least that's how I see it.
 
True wire wrapping involves no tinning. None. Some kind of hybrid method takes risks. Again, wire wrapping is a gas-tight connection. Tinning the post destroys the ability to make a gas-tight connection, because it dulls the post corners, which must cleanly cut into the tightly wrapped wire, forming a gas-tight connection. If you are going to use a hybrid method, and wrapping makes your mechanical connection, apply solder to the finished wrap. Otherwise, your wrapped connection is subject to issues relating to corrosion at the contact points, long term. I'm not going to spew credentials to sway you to my side. I have no dog in this race.

I will say this again, if you do not use the proper tools, techniques, and materials, you will not have a reliable wire-wrap connection. You may, however, have a good mechanical connection. Put solder on it and you will be good for the long haul. Otherwise, you pays your money, you takes your chances. You do not need, and it is in fact counterproductive, to use tinning on a true wire-wrap connection.

Your gear, or your client's gear, obviously you can do what you wish with it. I will respectfully back away at this point.

Rich P
 
i only asked as it seems impossible to replicate the original installation unless it was a broken and enough slack existed. it would seem to me in some of the crap ive waded through and got working that a simple hook terminal with minimum solder is a practical alternative. as the wire is unavailable in 20 gauge i guess tools alone wont solve it. i considered tinning as an alternative to silver plated wire.
 
I will say this again, if you do not use the proper tools, techniques, and materials, you will not have a reliable wire-wrap connection. You may, however, have a good mechanical connection. Put solder on it and you will be good for the long haul. Otherwise, you pays your money, you takes your chances.
Rich P

That sums it up perfectly for me - as 'authentic' as it may 'look', a poorly remade wire-wrap connection is simply not reliable enough for me. As an amateur hobbyist, not faced with wire-wrap connections on a daily basis, I'd rather add solder and be able to rely on the electrical connection first and foremost. It's irrelevant what it looks like if it doesn't work properly electrically....
 
once again i do thank you all. im not in business but i get a kick out of repairing even the most decrepit! its like in that steve mcqeen bounty hunter movie,whos title ive forgotten. when asked why he liked really old toys and other things, even his car. he replied, "BECAUSE NEW THINGS ARE NO GOOD!"
 
One thing I never understood - Wire wrapping is superior to soldering. All those reasons have been explained, and I would accept that is fact.

Yet, the pins are still soldered to the boards.

I typically don't unwrap a wire, but I have had a few break off. How can soldering the wire directly to the board be any worse?
 
The boards were fully assembled on a platen and moved en-mass, to a wave soldering machine. A wave soldering machine is basically a tank with molten solder and the bottom of the board is set a couple of mm above the surface, while a wave making mechanism in the tank was working and the bottom of the boards were soldered by the wave of solder.

Soldering each wire to the board would take too much time, while wrapping was done by machines guided by workers on the line.
 
I've had several versions of the tool in the link of post #2. I am coming to the end of my post material and need opinions on using unused pins which have been de-soldered from various vintage receivers. Some of these have the usual light oxidation but still look to have nice sharp corners. Opinions on using these?
 
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