Woodworking question...
- Thread starter fujimo
- Start date
fujimo
Member
Good questions.
These are beat up walnut veneer Large Advents. I suppose the veneer is 1/16th to 1/8th inch thick. The problem is the solid walnut face trim is flush with the veneer sides/top/bottom. If I just put new veneer over the old, the new veneer will stick out quite a bit.
So, I figured the easiest way is to just remove the old veneer and start fresh. Well, maybe not the easiest way, but will problably acheive the best results.
These are beat up walnut veneer Large Advents. I suppose the veneer is 1/16th to 1/8th inch thick. The problem is the solid walnut face trim is flush with the veneer sides/top/bottom. If I just put new veneer over the old, the new veneer will stick out quite a bit.
So, I figured the easiest way is to just remove the old veneer and start fresh. Well, maybe not the easiest way, but will problably acheive the best results.
I guess you already know what your are attempting to do will require a lot of time and patience, but if you willing, here ya go. Do one side at a time. Lay a damp cloth over the veneer and then place a iron (as in clothes iron) on the damp rag. This will steam the veneer and help to loosen the glue. Use a very sharp wood chisel at a very shallow angle and work the veneer off. There is a bit of art to this, so take it slow. Once the veneer is removed let the cabinets dry out overnight. Then sand them to even out the grain and remove any residual glue and old veneer.
merrylander
AK Member
Alternatively, if the old veneer is solidly stuck down, just fill any voids with wood filler, then when you put on new veneer carry it right over the face molding. When you sand it down you should not even see the glue joint. The downside is that you also will not see the joint where the molding meets the sides and top and bottom, though a sharp knife cut line could fake it.
Rob
If you want to see how the glue lines disappear look at the Ebay auction for one of my re-veneered Yammie CR-820s. Under the heading Incomparable Yamaha CR-820.
Rob
If you want to see how the glue lines disappear look at the Ebay auction for one of my re-veneered Yammie CR-820s. Under the heading Incomparable Yamaha CR-820.
Woodworking question
I do agree with Wardsweb just try to steam the veneer of and scrape the glue of but be carefull with steam dont get the panels to wet if they are particleboard they might swell. Let the cabinet dry and the sand it and prepp the surfase and put new veneer on.
Good Luck.
I do agree with Wardsweb just try to steam the veneer of and scrape the glue of but be carefull with steam dont get the panels to wet if they are particleboard they might swell. Let the cabinet dry and the sand it and prepp the surfase and put new veneer on.
Good Luck.
F1nut
Super Member
I like to use a professional heat gun. It works much better than the steaming method with more predictable results. Start with the low setting at a corner or edge, keep the gun moving slowly over one area as not to burn the veneer (read, start a fire) and using a putty knife, work it under the veneer. Once you get under the veneer and move the heat to the next section you'll be surprised how easy it'll start coming off. Sand off any remaining glue/veneer and you're ready to apply new veneer the same day. Have you tried any of the PSA veneers? Peel and stick....it's great!
merrylander
AK Member
Interesting. I use a heat gun to strip receiver cases that have vinyl "woodgrain", never thought to try it on wood. The CR-2020 case I veneered had already been stripped, so it was just a matter of filiing in voids and applying the veneer. Got the guts working, all except FM, think it's a bad ceramic filter, but have not had a chance to scope it out. AM is fine, as are all the other bits.
Rob
Rob
